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Everything posted by PaulTWinterton

  1. 185x70xR13. If you go to the Longstone site they have all the pricing info. IMO they are not very expensive considering they are Pirellis and retro. I will say that because they are the same diameter/circumference as the original 165x90s your speedo will be more accurate. Delivery is very quick. Not sure why. https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/pirelli-collezione/cinturato-cn36.html
  2. Don't get me started! Or Steve would say "don't get Paul started". These tires not only perform nicely but they are very close to stock diameter and a great conversation piece as the tread is SOOO retro. Pirelli CN36 available from Longstone Tyres England. Worldwide shipping is still free, I believe. Another excuse to post this picture AGAIN: ☺️
  3. You can PM him from here: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/142054-golde-sunroof-wind-deflector/?tab=comments#comment-932262 or stanDOTchamallasATmeDOTcom or phone: six-oh-three-three-nine-seven-eight-oh-seven-four.
  4. Interesting. Again, the euro market? Cars bound for the US and Canada may not have been fitted and thus the accessory option.
  5. A local owner bought his car new in 73 and the dealer upsold him a Golde for $35.00. His was the first I'd ever seen. Had to have one. I'm just glad Stan makes them.
  6. Didn't know that. Luckily I haven't had any rattles or binding. Just a satisfying "snic" when it pops up. I'd be reluctant to drill holes as well. Think I'll stick with the status quo and enjoy it as is.
  7. I remember playing with the pieces like it was one of those wire puzzles that would come apart only if everything was aligned exactly right. The assembly of this is much the same. Once you figure it out it's not that complicated. Only daunting to start. First off, Stan's directions are a must. They answer most of the questions. In the picture below I have assembled the (2) units with the use of clamps to keep the spring in position. NOTE: You are only assembling the spring and hinges into the track. The deflector pieces are installed when you are re-assembling sunroof frame. Stan says...The center tab of the spring must be turned down into the recess of the track while you are assembling and turned up once assembly is complete. I recall that the hinges did not accept the spring easily. The oblong hole in the hinge and the flattened end of the spring would not line up (easily) and needed some twisting to finally slide the spring into position. Once you have assembled the 2 units with the clamps still in place AND YOU'RE HAPPY WITH THE SPRING ACTION OF THE HINGES then you can apply the JBWeld to secure the tab in the center of the spring into the slot of the track. The JBWeld is only a plug to keep the spring (TAB) in position. Once dried you can remove the clamps and start putting the track plates into the sunroof assembly. The deflector pieces slide through the hinges quite easily and are only held by friction. There is little strain on the pieces so it's not a problem. Fitting the track plates back into the roof with the deflector pieces in place is a bit challenging. I found myself sliding the deflector pieces (out) so the track plates could be installed, then re-aligning the deflectors. This took a bit of head scratching. I glued on the nylon guides AFTER all was complete. I hope some of this helps. Good luck, and take your time. Once you're done you'll be very happy.
  8. Don't start the job yet. Let me get you more info. The spring is tricky. Stan has 2 prices because assembly is time-consuming. Securing the spring properly requires clamps and JBweld, IMHO. Fitting the spring into the couplers is finicky. Stans instructions are pretty good but I think I have some extra pictures I took. My deflector has been trouble free for 5 years so don't stress. I'll post pics asap.
  9. Me again. I have no bolt or hole on the edges of my battery tray. AND no ground strap. Do you (or anyone) have a picture of the original configuration on the roundie tii? I only have a negative-battery-post-to-solenoid cable. Obviously I or the PO removed the chassis ground cable at some time. No ill effects that I know of, but we'll see what happens when I install the proper ground strap. Maybe I'll get 10 more horsepower.
  10. Not only that...a film of oil will coat the bottom of your car. Not such a bad thing. I attribute a life-long oil leak to the (near) rust-free condition of the bottom of my car, although it has lived in the north for its entire life.
  11. Hmmm...I'll have to go look. I don't recall ever seeing that.
  12. Oh! I'm all too familiar with that sheetmetal screw into the fender under the regulator. That's the replacement for a ground strap? Seems puny by comparison. I actually changed that screw to a through-bolt with plenty of metal-to-metal contact.
  13. Sorry. Better to be depressed now than later when you have a bunch of time and money invested, and no end in sight.
  14. I'm drawing a blank. Where is the chassis ground on my roundie tii? Our battery boxes are welded in.
  15. One skill that I never acquired was welding. If it was me, first I'd take an automotive welding course to learn the art and techniques required to do a proper job of restoration. When I see photos of restoration projects it looks very rewarding to restore what was once a rusty wreck. ...AND find a better body to restore. They are out there. Good luck. Some suppliers of body parts: http://www.restoration-design.com/store/category/BMW https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=2583-USA---114-BMW-2002tii&mg=41 (Dealership) https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/karosserie-blechteile/bmw-1502-2002-turbo.html
  16. Getting this topic restarted. I finally broke down and bought an Ultrasonic machine. I also had a long chat with Wes Ingram and Herb Sanborn about mechanical injectors and refurbishing. First off, about injector#4 that would not crack AT ALL. I dismantled it completely, being very careful to only stretch the spring enough the remove the T support. It was pretty dirty inside and the pintle shaft was corroded so much that it was glued to the 2nd and 3rd washers. The pintle sealing edge appears to be clean. As recommended by Herb, I used EvapoRust to dissolve the corrosion and then I ran all the parts through the Ultrasonic machine for 30 minutes. I re-assembled the pieces and now I'm getting consistent 350psi cracking and uniform atomization. Injector#1 was cracking at 300psi. After an Ultrasonic bath it is now cracking at 350psi. If the injectors once cracked at 500psi and now all I can get is ±350psi, is it the spring that has lost tension over the years? I heard a rumor that someone has had the spring re-manufactured. Still following up on that.
  17. Funny. I guess I have good taste. I pulled that image from Google and composited the logo. Only meant to be a mock up. Hopefully it will spark Steve to produce caps.
  18. Great idea! I'd buy one. @steve k.? Mock up:
  19. This wheel was my spare and in the spare tire well when I bought the car in 1990. I was SURE that it was an original paint scheme from BMW. I was later convinced (by the FAQ) that it had been painted by some PO.
  20. My experience is that the housing is the least problematic component. IMHO @Swiss 2002Tiihas/had a severely corroded unit, but most are intact, I believe. The real problems lie in the wax motor element and the air cutoff piston assembly. Just a forewarning so that you don't go to a lot of trouble. I have no problem being corrected if I'm wrong. More comments please.
  21. The OEM kit has two pieces, approx 15mm x 5mm x 60cm and a wider piece. IIRC. The OEM stuff is pretty useless, and keep in mind that it compresses to the extreme. Closed cell not so much. As is, the top of the tank/sending units/hoses pretty much touch the floor board. If the tank is raised, it will press against (raise) the floor boards. Just something to keep in mind. I used OEM but wouldn't again. I would use thinner closed cell, NOT caulking...too messy to re&re. IMO.
  22. I was one of those people back in the day. The wheels didn't even have to be rusty, just stock. What was I thinking?
  23. Bingo! For anyone that hasn't used an industrial DIY blasting cabinet, it's the MOST FUN you'll have in restoration, IMO. "Crushed" glass to remove heavy rust, and then glass "bead" to smooth the metal before adding primers and paints. I've done a wheel in 20 minutes, inside and out. That calculates to about 20 bucks a wheel, but considering the age and value of vintage steel wheels I think it's a great investment to preserve these babies.
  24. It's actually a seal that looks like a thick washer, but Scoob is right, that could be the source. Also, the distributor gasket may be leaking from the bottom. You'll need a mirror to see the bottom and backside of the housing. Super easy to replace the seal and the gasket all at the same time. Brake cleaner rocks! Remove all the oil in the area and do the drive around the block. Veteran opinions please: If you determine that the HG is leaking on the back edge, maybe a head bolt re-torque could help. At 87K it can't hurt to tighten the head bolts a bit, right? What say the pros?

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