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PaulTWinterton

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by PaulTWinterton

  1. ☺️ No, but I'm sure Stan has one. If the deflector is original, which is possible, the spring may need to be replaced. If it's a replica it's probably just a fitment issue. They are finicky to assemble properly.
  2. Agreed. Ceylon sunroof car! Gold! Being the hobbyist that I am, I like things I can tinker with. I didn't see the Golde wind deflector at first 'cuz the torsion spring is probably in-operative. I'd be all over that. Put in some OEM-style hood insulation and...oh no! nothing left to do, but drive it. My guess...it's going to a serious collector, for serious dough.
  3. Funny, I know her and her husband well. I've only bought parts from Jessel a couple of times though, because another friend and longtime FAQer was the parts guy at AutoWest.
  4. Great car. LOVE Ceylon! Are you leaving us once it's sold?
  5. I was starting to think that the CA wildfires and subsequent power outages were to blame.
  6. Interestingly, the halves are permanently marked with tiny dimples for re-alignment. Or...the halves can be "clocked" for different orientations in the engine bay. I found this out the hard way by incorrectly clocking an alternator for the tii, which is not the same orientation as the carb car.
  7. First off, I've had issues with disassembly of alternators as well. It's as if they don't want you to open it. Slot-head bolts? WTF! Easiest head to strip. I visited an auto-electric shop and took note of how they do it. AIR TOOLS! Impact drivers with the correct head to fit the slot perfectly and a socket for the pulley bolt. No problemo. A large screwdriver to wedge the pulley so it doesn't turn while using the air tool. I've had better luck since using the correct tools. Concerning your "singing" alternator. I'm asking the FAQ: is their a lubricant that you can spray on electrical components that won't effect the circuits, but will lubricate where needed?
  8. FYI: The likes images are broken. Thanks Steve.
  9. I bought a super-long pair of pliers for testing the WUR air function while in the car. They reach down to clamp the air hose from the WUR to the plenum (air log). When the car is warm and idling pinch the hose. If the engine rpm changes, you have air leaking into the system. A visual inspection of the tophat and KFish enrichment lever will confirm that there is separation between them and the lever is not is use. That is assuming that the tophat is adjusted correctly to achieve 2.6mm (approx) adjustment to the enrichment as per the manual.
  10. Technically yes, but some would say that a tiny bit of air can be regulated within the tuna can adjustment. To me, ANY uncontrolled air entering the system is problematic as it can fluctuate causing imprecise tuning of the Air/Fuel mixture. I've done tests on quite a few WURs and found that really good ones can fully stop the air flow around the 8mm mark. Some don't stop the air flow even at the 10mm mark. It is more a function of the tolerance between the piston and the walls of the bore, that determine if it will seal, IMO. If the WUR has been subject to grit and heavy use over it's 40+ years, the piston and bore become worn to the point of a poor seal. Since I did this drawing I've tested some WURs that seal around 8mm of elevation. You might be lucky and only require a good cleaning. How to test: Once you have loosened the hex screw you can rotate the piston (counter-clockwise) upward to add mm to the final position, BUT that means that the piston will not retract as far as before, when cold. It's a trade-off and might not produce any better results. The WUR serves two functions, 1) adds and stops aux air at start up, and 2) controls the fuel enrichment lever on the KFish. Once the tophat separates from the lever the fuel enrichment ceases. I've found that the tophat separation happens around 8mm of elevation as well.
  11. Bumping this offering. See page 1 for parts currently available.
  12. How did you know what I spent? I bought new seat pads and couldn't afford tires for a year.
  13. Personally, no. Just too skinny. The 185s are perfect and complement the sporty look of the 02. I keep a set of cheap 165s on stock tii rims and caps in the archives just because I can. Thanks for the offer though. ☺️
  14. I've done that and the fan was dangerously close to the rad. 1mm of lift at the tranny mount equates to an angle change at the fan. I wish it had worked for me. It would have saved a lot of head scratching. To anyone altering the tranny mount. DOUBLE CHECK THE DISTANCE FROM FAN TO RAD. I found that after changing motor mounts that the engine does settle slightly. Enough on my car to remove the distortion in the guibo. Go figure.
  15. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=2583-USA---114-BMW-2002tii&mg=62 Welcome. Nice ride. I believe the reason for the hard line from the gas tank is safety. The carbureted cars fuel line is not under great pressure (right, group?). Personally, I'd either keep the fuel line as is, or replace it with similar stock following the same path. You could spend the savings on other parts of the car. IMHO. A period-correct trapezoid mirror could cost you $100. Available from Vintage Autobahn I believe. There...re-directed your spending for you. ☺️ Or a set of flag mirrors @ $$$ Beware of aftermarket exhaust systems. Get lots of advice and opinions. Some don't fit that well and some are obnoxious after an hour of driving. There are nice systems out there at reasonable prices. I'm a stock guy. I have the OEM system. I don't give it a second thought. Absolutely dependable and easy to re&re. Part of why they coined the phrase "Whispering Bomb", I think. Enjoy the forum and please post lots of pictures. We love pictures.
  16. How old are your calipers? Age can cause pistons to seize due to rust. You can free them up, but usually it's time for new calipers or repair if they are unresponsive to the pedal. Always replace both, IMO. Invest in s/s lines too.
  17. I've probably done 10 water pump replacements on the 02, 5series and 6series cars I've owned. Always dry and haven't had a gasket failure yet. I'm not against sealant, just haven't used it on this particular job. Oh yeah, had one rip one time while assembling. They are fragile. Toby makes a point though. I've never had a gasket leak, but I have had rusty bolts. It makes sense that even though the seal doesn't leak, the coolant can still penetrate to the bolts and holes. Seized water pump bolts can be scary and cause unnecessary grief if they break. I'll use sealant the next time.
  18. Nice pictorial. Thanks. Driving on the wrong side of the road doesn't take TOO long to master, imo, but shifting with your left hand takes awhile.
  19. One more thought. I know many people recommend going with the larger 3series (I think) transmission mount. Are they taller than the 02 mount? Any amount taller and the angle of the output flange would change, distorting the guibo. Remember, the d-shaft flange angle is fixed by the position of the csb.
  20. Is it just the picture or is your engine canted left. It looks like there's more space on the left side and less on the right side, fan to rad. Try disconnecting your csb and tilting the driveshaft up, down, right, and left. Find the sweet spot where the guibo is correct. That may give you more insight into the problem with alignments of the engine, csb and diff.
  21. Remove the diff bolts to see how much room is left in the slots. You need 2-3mm forward movement to cure your problem. My guess is that you will have that adjustment. Loosen the hanger bolts at the rear. Push the diff forward and tighten all the bolts. You can use a crowbar type tool behind the diff and underside of the car to push the diff forward. Find the torque value of the diff bolts. Gudentite at least. There really isn't any adjustment at the motor mounts IMO. How is the distance rad to fan? Edit: I don't recognize that guibo. Maybe someone else can comment on the quality or dimensions. I'm not sure if that would make a difference, but worth ruling out.
  22. First off, I'm only speaking from my experience. There are others here with professional knowledge that likely have the best advice. What I've learned, mostly from this forum, is that the diff position is the last adjustment to be made if the powertrain has been re&re'd and everything is disconnected. I would first check the distance of the fan from the rad. 3/8" to 1/2" gap is optimum. Double-check that the stop on the passenger side motor mount is properly situated. Once the motor and tranny mounts are secure and undistorted, attach the guibo and csb, making sure that there is no left-to-right mis-alignment. If there is vertical distortion of the guibo, the csb arms can be bent slightly to correct this. Finally the d-shaft is connected to the diff. What I've found is that there is usually a small gap between the d-shaft flange and the diff. In your case the diff may be too far forward, distorting the guibo. Could it be that your diff needs to be further back? Pre-loading the csb shouldn't change the profile of the guibo. That's all I've got. ☺️
  23. Could be a few things to distort the guibo. Engine mounts, diff mount, csb, diff position. All things that are far less costly or may just need adjustment. Good luck.


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