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      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

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Found 15,965 results

  1. Noticed a puddle of coolant under the very front of the car this mornining and saw some dripping off the pulleys from underneath. I squeezed all the hoses and no coolant came out of them except from the weep hole on the water pump. When I turned the engine on I got a nice spray of coolant from the fan/pulleys. Sound like a bad water pump or is there anything else I should check before ordering?
  2. I gather either the E30 M3 or some M30 six cyl Bosch rebuilt starters will work. Do they use the bracket that attaches the front facing end of the starter to the block? Or do they need it? How fussy are they with cores?
  3. Hello all, I need some help with my 75 '02. (I have tried to search topics related to my questions, but it seems I never search the right thing, and this site doesn't seem to know what I'm thinking). BUMPER: I want to bring in the battering ram on my '75. How do you extract the cylinder that the bumper is attached to? Is it the large nut on the frame rail just inside the engine compartment? Next question: is there any magic number for bringing the bumper in? I was figuring 2.5", which, at the center of the bumper, would put the bumper 3/4" from the kidney. And, it seems that the ribs on the accordions are 2.5" o/c, so it seemed an ideal number when it was time to shorten the accordions. BALL JOINTS: The castellated nut is frozen solid, and after a weekend of soaking it in loose-juice, it ain't gonna budge. So, how to get the ball joint stud out of the cup? Next, any special advice as to drilling out the rivets holding the ball joint in place? Finally, where do I buy new ball joints? I ask these questions in all sincerity and I appreciate any positive and constructive advice you may be able to offer. Rich in OH
  4. I have read many previous posts about engine bay stickers, but I still have a few questions. I have determined where most of the stickers go, but I need your help making sure (1) these stickers are appropriate for a 73 2002 (and not later/earlier models; note: my car was manufactured on 2/22/73); (2) confirming that my locations are correct; and (3) for two of them I don't know where they go, do you? If you have pictures of your engine sticker location or you have a 73 2002 with original stickers... all the better. Two stickers I don't know where they go: 1. Red A/C sticker (note: my car has a stock Behr A/C; should this sticker be present?) 2. Blue Bremsgerat T51 Stickers I would like to confirm the location for and that they are correct for a 73 roundie: 1. Fuses - driver's side adjacent to brake fluid reservoir 2. Battery sticker - driver's side below the fuse sticker 3. Cooling system - just below battery sticker (working your way toward the front of the car) 4. Orange Achtung Sticker - passenger side in same basic location as the fuse sticker 5. Agave (color) sticker - above VIN plate on passenger side. Many thanks for all of your assistance! -Marc Proposed Locations: Where do these two go?
  5. Tii Piston Help

    I'm in the midst of rebuilding the motor on my '72 tii. Pulled the pistons last weekend to find what is pictured below on the cyl 2 and 4 pistons. No major scoring on the skirts, just the pitting on the edge of the crown as shown in the pictures below. 1. What would cause this to occur? 2. Are my pistons toast? 3. If the answer to 2 is "yes" does anyone have a set of Mahle 89.97 9.5:1 piano tops for sale, or know where I should start looking? TIA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. my driver side motor mount is the square shaped rubber version ( not round). It attaches to the block with a bracket; the bracket bolts to the block, and is attached to the mount which has two studs. I'm trying to remove the block from the car - which is easier (after connecting block to lift): take the nuts off the studs, or, remove the bolts from the block?
  7. What is that stuff underneath the distributor on the firewall? It's kind of crumbly, has to be some kind of heat shield. It's not asbestos is it? It's gotta go, but what do I replace it with? I saw somebody put in some EZ Cool on the whole firewall, but I'm not sure how to proceed. Thanks Nick
  8. I've been searching for a turbo style airdam and turbo style flares, but I was wondering if there's any consensus on who makes the best parts? I got an ABS air dam with the car, but it was warped and didn't include the bumper 'lip' that some of the air dams do. I've seen the one Bavauto sells (kamei reproduction?) but from what I can tell it doesn't extend out at the sides to meet up with the flares. On the flares, I've seen the ireland engineering ones, but I'm unsure of the pros/cons of ABS vs. fiberglass. I'll definitely be having these all painted. They don't have to be turbo replicas but would prefer not to go with the large fiberglass box flares. If anyone could suggest which brands/types are the most highly regarded I'd appreciate it. I'm not looking for exact authenticity, but for something that'll look good once fitted, and will fit well.
  9. My engine has started to occasionally exhibit random clattering noise when cold, not valve noise as best I can determine, so I decided to open 'er up and replace the chain tensioner and spring. I found the oil in the "well" was surprisingly thick, dirty and black. As far as I can tell the oil in the "well" must be supplied from the top of the cylinder head and then run down the forward most drain path, eventually filling the little reservoir that feeds the tensioner/spring assembly. Do I have that correct and is this oil typically filthy, or should it cycle sufficiently to remain as clean as the overall engine oil. And yes I do religiously change my oil and filter. One more thing that's always puzzled me. What's up with the single-row chain on my engine? Why would somebody go to the trouble of replacing the duplex chain with a single chain? PO mentioned the engine was some kind of factory replacement engine made in 1980 but I'm not sure. Maybe the single chain is just a newer evolution?
  10. I saw this on an ebay auction for a red '02 and the guy said that the engine could have ben "tuned" by these guys.. WHO IS THIS? however, I really like the look of this valve cover...its nice and different... Any body know anything about them?
  11. I see the new turbo 4-cylinder BMW N20 engine is coming. This month's Roundel had some additional info, but I found this on the web. "Last week, BMW made the headlines of many automotive publications with the announcement of their new four-cylinder TwinPower 2.0 liter engine. Dubbed N20, the engine will be first used in the new X1 xDrive28i and produces 245 horsepower and 350 Nm of torque (258 lb of torque)." "The engine can be matted to a 6-speed manual transmission or a 8-speed automatic transmission. In Europe, the BMW X1 xDrive28i equipped with this engine is expected to offer a fuel consumption of 7.9 liters/100 km and has CO2 emissions of 183 g/km. We anticipate an X1 an X3 model to be offered here with the new engine, along with the next generation 1 Series and Z4 Roadster. Other models, but less likely, are the new 3 Series vehicles which will debut in 2012." If someone could get the electronics figured out, this might be a sweet swap eventually. Hmm, Paul Cain - I see you are looking for parts for a 72tii. Any plans for another fantastic creation??? http://www.bmwblog.com/2011/01/28/new-turbo-4-cylinder-engines-to-arrive-in-the-us-before-year-end/
  12. Hi 2002faqers... First post for me. I have a '74 2002 which I inherited from my Dad. I know he replaced the diff at some stage. This caused the speedometer to read faster than you are actually going. At 60 km/h the speedo reads closer to 80 km/h Where does the speedo cable 'read' from? How can I make the speedo read correctly?
  13. Hello, I need a recommedation of a Transmission Shop that can reseal my 1973 2002 Automatic Transmission. I'm in northern L.A. County (Antelope Valley) However, I can travel to the San Fernando, Santa Clarita valleys etc..
  14. Hey guys, I'm in need of your knowledge. I have a 1972 carbed 2002. Last week, pinkey and I spent an entire afternoon/night trying to pinpoint and fix my bogging problem. If you dont know, my car wont accelerate past 4000 rpms in ANY gear if I'm pedal to the metal. In other words, if ive eased of the pedal about a centimeter, I can accelerate as much as the car will. If I'm pedal to the floor, anywhere from about 3,500 to 4,000 rpms the car will just cut power. It will hit those rpms and then drop down 500 or so rpms then wont accelerate. It makes a backfiring/bogging noise too. So here is the list of our ideas and attempts to fix it: 1. Changed the spark plugs, no fix. 2. Simple timing issue. Timed the car, no fix. 3. 38/38 carb was too much. switched to weber 32/36 carb, no fix. 4. Tune carb. No fix 5. Pertronix was bad? switched back to points, no fix. 6. Bad distributor all together? Switched to a good one, no fix. After a little break and some deep thought, we took the car for one more drive. In first gear it went up to 6000 rpms and then the car made a loud POP. The fuel pump just shut off, car died, and we rolled it back to the garage. We were confident then that my upgraded fuel pump was either bad, or pumping in too much fuel and causing the car to choke. We switched out for a fuel pump we knew worked with the car, very confident this was it, and still... no fix. So, 7. Downgrade to good fuel pump, no fix. And after hours of practically overhauling the car, we were stumped. I'll add this, when I say "we" I'm pretty much refering to pinkey. He was the one with all the ideas and knowledge to help me narrow things down. So big thanks to Pinkey for helping me out! Even though we came out of this one without fixing it, we narrowed down a lot. I few more things, I purchased the car in this condition. It did not start when I upgraded something or just randomly started one day. So tell me what you guys think it can be! Thanks in advance for the input! Utah02 and pinkey
  15. I have a semi hot rodded engine and my next step is to add the sidedrafts. I have a tii distributor, black coil and pertronix on it now. It's got high compression Pistons, weber 38 downdraft, 292 cam and headers. So I want hot spark. I want performance but reliability and ease of use. So for ignition do I go Crane or MSD? Which models? What coil? Red, blue, black, MSD Blaster? Also why? I have seen lots of combinations just want to know why I'd use a certain ignition and a certain coil. Thanks! I looked through the archives and read a bunch but it seems both MSD and Crane have new ignition systems, the old ones have been discontinued.
  16. I was under my 74 tii this past weekend and noticed lot's of transmission oil on my guibo joint and undercarriage of the car. Upon inspecting, I noticed that the guibo was shot presumably from contact with so much tranny oil. Bought a new guibo, but wanted some opinions from the community on next steps to take since I already have the driveshaft off, exhaust off, etc. ( tranny is a 4 speed) 1) take out the tranny and have it serviced - change rear seal - take care of clutch and other internals that presumably need to be done in the coming years..... 2) keep tranny in the car and attempt to replace the rear seal. I would prefer to change the seal only, since the tranny works fine, no clutch issues, but I need pictures and advice on how to do this. Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian
  17. I've seen alot of talk and tech about using the 80-83 320i Gertrag 245 transmission but am worried my long garaged 2002 has a bit too much power for this one. My Gertrag 232 transmission blew once and quickly got way too sloppy a second time after I added dual Weber 40 DCOE's and a 3/4 race cam and a few other bolt ons to my balanced engine with .010 milled head. The car was never dynoed but I suppose the engine made close to 200 hp. Will a 325i Getrag 260.0.1270.90 transmission work in a 2002 5 speed conversion?
  18. Bellhousing Cover?

    Hello everyone! New 2002 owner; first post I'm in the processes of fixing critical issues and I could use some help identifying the correct name for a part. Pictured below is my bellhousing, which is clearly missing its cover. Searching Google for "Bellhousing Cover", "Flywheel Cover", etc does not seem to yield many results that are 2002-specific. Is this a difficult part to obtain? If anyone knows a source or has tips for fabrication I'd be very grateful.
  19. I've seen lots of threads on how to install one. Is there a thread that lists the different 5 speed transmissions that can be made to fit? Sorry about the typo in the topic title. Thanks Stuart
  20. Hey everyone, Im looking at doing an engine swap to a M42 engine with 5 speed transmission from a early 90s 318i. I was wondering was if someone could link me to a post/blog where this had been done before? Ive heard that as far as conversions go its not a particularly difficult one...but who knows my sources might be unreliable. Thanks guys.
  21. A while back I sourced a crankshaft pulley from the wonderful people at 2002AD to replace the one that was worn out for an engine rebuild. After getting it on the car a year later it turns out this pulley is about a half inch longer than the original one which puts it into the fan. I installed an electric fan to bypass this issue but will have the radiator out shortly and thought I would revisit the issue. Its a three belt pulley and I only need the first 2 V-grooves so I'm thinking of pulling it and having a machine shop cut the end off. How can I deal with balance issues as the end has 3 holes drilled in it which were probably for balance.
  22. I spent some time searching the FAQ for a setup I could use for baseline setting for my Weber 38/38 but I know jetting is dependent on engine specs so I was hoping on getting your help on a good starting point for my jetting. I recently switched from dual 40 Dells to a 38/38 downdraft as an experiment. The 'out of the box' performance and drivability is acceptable, but I know there is MUCH room for improvement. This is my current engine setup: Stock M10 bottom end with piano tops. E12 head with Schrick 292 cam and springs. IE heavy duty rockers and locks. IE shorty header. OEM intake manifold port matched to 38/38 base gasket. IE intake manifold water bypass. Complete MSD ignition. New Weber 38/38 carb. I have a wide-band O2 kit I bought as part of the group buy here, but I haven't figured out where to mount the O2 sensor yet. I have the weld in bung. (40 inches from closest spark plug?) I'm also not sure if my pending 5-speed conversion might cause some exhaust rework. Thanks in advance for you help and support. I got a ton of feedback when I was setting up my Dells. Now I hope to get the same great support for the Weber 38/38. No haters please. I still have my sexy dual Dell setup and the water bypass is still installed. I can revert to sidedrafts if/when necessary. BEFORE: AFTER:
  23. Hi, My name is Robert Karlsson, and I run a engine/dyno shop in Sweden called Dynotech. You might recognize my 740whp M10 powred 1602 turbo here on 2002faq. I have been testing and working on making a decent good rockerarm that will actually work and not cost an arm and one leg. There is a gap of decent rockerarms, there are alot of rockers out there and none of them are 100% ... I have tested them all, and will not tell any brands or names to seem partial, but if you need to know just PM me. The rockerarm costruction is tho a comprimise. I don't like compromises (for you who have seen my engine know that). There is possible to make a good and strong rockerarm with right material and radius on the pads, but the wearing problem will still be there. To hot oil, less decent oil or strong valvesprings and high revs, diffrence in base cicles etc etc. Therefor to overcome these problems the best solusion on this problem is a roller rocker. And this will not be some 3rd party rocker, my thoughts when making this rocker is to call it "the rockerarm" it will replace everything out there on the market. Well it sounds cocky but when you put alot of work time and effort into making a new rockerarm, why not go 110% ? So what is the benefits with a roller rockerarm compared to a OEM? With the right size and position of the roller will give us better rockerarm geometry, better valve curve, you can use less valve clearance = less valve sound, no wearing problems at all it also support more springpressure whitch is needed to rev 10-11.000rpms without valvefloat and wearing problems. My rockerarm will also support more valve lift (15+ mm), in short terms you can make a camshaft with less duration and more valvelift = a better camshaft, more low and midend torque and more peak power. So why have not anyone already done this? First of, its very hard to calculate the optimum rocker geometry and to know the best and most optimized roller size etc, and last to actually have machines to make it. 2nd and the biggest problem, most engine shops have a analog camshaft grinder whitch means that you have to make a master camshaft for each model of camshafts you want to make. This makes its very expensive to make small batches of diffrent camshafts. I have access to a cnc camshaft grinder and that gives me the possibility to make make camshfts without any masters. That means I can make just one custom camshaft and the cost is about the same. This also means that if you want to use these rockerarms and you are already very pleased with you're camshaft I can tell me what cam it is or if its custom I will copy it in my camshaft measurment equipment and send the caminfo to the cnc grinding machine and it will recalculated the acceleration, valvelift, duration and open/close timing for my roller rockers geometry. I have designed 4 N/A camshafts and 4 turbo camshafts that will be in stock. Or I can help you with making you a custom camshaft after you're setup. The rocker itself is made in a 5axis cnc milling machine, the valve adjustment is the famous porsche adjustment screw with a custom milled fastning nut in titanium. The inner roller bearing ring will be machined in titanium also the roller axle will be in TI to make it as strong as possible but still as light as possible to have it support over 10000rpms as my engine revs. Also another feature that will come with this design is that you can change the camshaft without moving you're rockerarms, you will just simply remove the rollers (just with locking clip) and you can take out the camshafts just pulling it forward, very time saving for me when testing all camshafts in my dyno for example. Everyting is drawed and simulated with 10 diffrent roller sizes and diffrent positions in our special valve geomety cad progaram CAD software to find the most optimized roller size and position and pattern. I have worked on every little detail nothing is left for chance, enither in material or drawing and tolerances. the cnc machine have a tolerance of 0.0005-0.001" .. The final have a bit bigger roller becouse that gives me better valve curve geometry and less negative radius on the camshaft, but less ratio and that compensates with a little smaller base circle. This rocker have been tested hours in my dyno to make sure it really works and will last. My goal is to be able to sell one M10 kit of these highend exotic roller rockers for around 1000usd. And a custom steel camshaft for around 500. Since these rockers have been made to be able to handle more valve lift I'm working on a very cool split cam solution for those who does not want to make their cambearings bigger in the cylinderhead to reach more than 13mm valve lift. It acutally means that the camshaft will be in 2 peaces and you mount it and lock in when both peaces are inline position. This will make you 15-16mm valve lift without modifying you're camshaft bearings. With standard M10 lenght of valves depends on you're valve guidance height and retainer measurement, will be around 13mm valve lift as max. To solve this I will have valves that a a few mm longer and also longer valveprings support the longer valves. More about this later. stage one kit) 8x dynotech roller rockerarms 1x camshaft (either a copy of you're existing one or you can choose one of my camshafts that will use the "extra" benefits in valve geometry the roller rocker supports. stage two kit) 8x dynotech roller rockerarms 8x rockerarm locks 1x custom camshaft (you choose exacly what you want up to 13mm lift 8x dubble valvesprings with CrMo retainers supporting 10000rpms+ stage three kit) 8x dynotech roller rockerarms 8x rockerarm locks 1x custom camshaft split cam 15-16mm lift 8x dubble valvesprings with CrMo retainers supporting 10000rpms+ 4x 48 or 50mm intake SS valves with longer shaft. 4x 39mm SS or inconel for turbo valves with longer shafts This technique can easly be moved to M30 and M20 engine also. Is there anyone intressted in taking you're M10 engine to the next level with these rockers ?
  24. Spray castle nuts with penetrating oil several times over a course of a few days and let it to break loose surface tension rust and corrosion. Jack up and support vehicle Remove tire Remove cotter pin Replace tire and lower car to ground Apply parking brake and car in Neutral Loosen up castle nut with 36mm socket and long handlebar Jack up and support vehicle again and release parking brake Remove tire, castle nut and drum brake Heat hub for about 15 minutes. Rotate hub as your heating it. Pull off driving flange/hub with extractor Detach output shaft / CV shaft from axle shaft and tie it up Screw on castle nut with notches facing brakes, then use soft hammer to drive axle shaft out Outboard Inboard Pry out inboard and outboard sealing rings. From inboard side drive out outboard bearing with soft punch (brass) and hammer. Now shim ring (if any) and spacer sleeve can be removed from outboard side. Now can easily remove inboard ball bearing with punch and hammer. It is imperative that circular shim and spacer sleeve for each wheel kept separate if rear wheels bearings removal done at once. Wipe inside with paper towels and spray inside with brake cleaner. New bearings and seals Next, Pack bearings with grease and grease sealing rings lip Install inboard bearing. I used 1-1/2” dia. PVC coupling and plug to drive bearing in against bearing bore stop. Coat sleeve spacer outside with 35 grams grease and then insert sleeve to the cavity from outboard. Insert shim ring then, install outboard bearing making sure it is seating against shim Install inboard and outboard seals Insert axle shaft from inboard side all the way in Install hub/ driving flange. May need to use hammer on face of hub to seat it in Tighten castle nut with 36mm socket Replace drum brake Install tire and lug nuts Put rear wheels on ground Apply hand brake Secure front and back of rear tire with objects to prevent it from rotational movement Tighten castle nut to specified torque And for last time Jack up and support vehicle Remove tire Install cotter pin and bend tabs Put tire back on and tighten lug nuts Lower the car and torque lug nuts to 65 ft-lb This post has been promoted to an article
  25. Gentlemen: Several threads on the M42 Engine swap, but can't seem to locate anything on an M44 engine swap. I was told that the M44 is almost identical to the M10 and it's production was based off of it. Any information or sites would be helpful. http://project-schnitzer.blogspot.com looks great for the M42. Thanks