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  1. Someone in the auction business I'm sure could say it much better, but I'd say the psychology is that you are telling bidders from the outset that someone will be going home with the car rather than just bidding to have a chance of winning, the latter being a reserve auction. If you aren't sure that you are bidding to win, bids might be half-hearted and some bidders just may not enter bidding at all if they perceive the reserve is high (and you need at least two serious, determined bidders for a good result for the seller). No reserve removes the element of wondering if the seller has set a realistic reserve or is just fishing. Even with BaT encouraging lower reserves to help their own cause, there still are a good percentage that end in RNM along with comments that it should have sold at the final bid price. One seller that uses BaT as his primary means of selling cars as his own business, Jason at Denwerks, does only no reserve auctions. Sometimes he ends up getting a bit lower result if there aren't those two determined bidders in the room at the end, but overall this has benefited his bottom line. Of course he can average this out over many auctions and it's a different scenario for a private seller whose concern (risk) is a single car. This particular tii is said to be sold by a private party, but apparently it is Peter Sliskovich, owner of CoupeKing who restores these cars, and that is confirmed in the description from his previous sale of an E12 5-series. Seems to me he is playing loose with the definition of private vs. dealer, but as long as the car is titled in his name (as stated in the auction description) and the transaction doesn't go through CoupeKing at all, he can claim it as a private sale.
  2. Still looking for options for replacing my black vinyl upholstery for my driver seat base. These are $278 from GAHH. I know they do top quality work, but since the rest of my interior is original materials in really good condition, my preference would be to find that for my driver seat base as well. World Upholstery only sells upholstery for complete seats, base and upper sections, for several hundred dollars more. Any leads greatly appreciated! -Gary
  3. I was putting my repaired driver's seat base together with the back section of the seat and I discovered the third difference between the passenger and driver seat spring frames. The metal tabs that stick out from each side that the seat recline hooks grip so the seats don't flop forward are different lengths. The driver side tab extends an extra half inch on the door side vs. inside towards the driveshaft tunnel. This extra half inch allows it to easily clear the seat side bracket on the outside and the shorter length on the inside keeps it from hitting the driveshaft tunnel carpet. I added some duct tape to my pretty chrome seat brackets to keep them from getting scratched up. When I replace my driver's seat base upholstery (still looking for options vs. new from GAHH) I will likely take a hacksaw to the tabs on both sides. Another 1/8 of an inch shorter even and I would not have had the clearance with the seat bracket to make a passenger spring frame work on the driver side. Almost ruined my day given all the effort earlier in the week. Summary of driver/passenger spring frame differences: 1. Metal band or ribbon around the top of the spring frame is shaped to conform with the horsehair pad--extended towards the driveshaft tunnel 2. Elevated "washer holes" where the seat rails attach to the spring frame--I am running no washers now to compensate and can't really say that I feel a difference 3. Tabs on each side of spring frame are different lengths--need to saw off these tabs to avoid interference issues with seat brackets and transmission tunnel. First pic shows the chrome side bracket with the metal tab that doesn't stick out as far with passenger spring frame now on the driver seat. Second pic shows my application of duct tape to avoid scratching up my chrome brackets until the final repair where I saw off the vertical section of the metal tab. Final shot shows the seat back in its locked position with the tape protecting the chrome from rubbing on the spring frame metal tab. Note the hook from the seat recline mechanism on the underside. That's the reason for these metal tabs sticking out on the sides of the spring frames.
  4. I had really good customer service from this business out of The Netherlands: https://www.dellortoshop.com They have a lot more than Dellorto parts. I bought a rebuild kit for my dual Solex DDH carbs for my Alfa Giulia shipped to the state of Washington last year. Or, I could sell you a box of OEM Solex jets I came across in Burbank.... Just kidding 😏
  5. Update to my last post: Bruce did send a reply to my 4th PM over the weekend so trying to determine the condition better before closing deal on trap mirror.
  6. Hi Bruce, I have sent you 3 PMs without a reply regarding the trapezoidal mirror, the one in the 3rd picture down in your original post. The first was right after expressing interest in this thread on the 12th, the second on the 13th when there was no reply and the third was yesterday, the 21st. I use the PM system daily to communicate with other FAQ members so I know it's not on my end. Just sent a 4th PM today, the 22nd. -Gary
  7. Did anyone ever hear back from Bruce M tuner on any of these items? I sent a PM on the trap mirror when I replied here right after he posted the for sale listing and then again a day later when there was no reply to that and then again today. Just wondering if he did reply and sell items to some or maybe sold it all as a lot rather than deal with individual items/buyers. -Gary
  8. Looking for a complete black vinyl upholstery piece that's for a 1968-1973 '02 driver's seat base. Even if the basketweave vinyl is in bad shape, I'm interested, although even more interested if it's not cracked or otherwise needing work. My main requirement is that the flat portion of the vinyl on the top and around all the vertical sides is in really good condition--mine has a couple tears. I've got used original basketweave to replace the top center section if needed. Willing to pay a good price for the seller as my only other option is buying new from GAHH for $$ and I still may end up having to replace the center top embossed vinyl to get the correct basketweave look even with that option. Thanks, Gary
  9. Yep, I was just trying to figure out what trouble I'd hit by turning a passenger seat spring frame into a driver seat spring frame. I was willing to live with the elevated holes, which are like welded on washes, now being on the opposite side, but the several hour job was swapping that metal ribbon that the horsehair pad wraps around. Just a whole bunch of metal clips that require a lot of prying while being careful not to slip or you could end up with a nasty gash to a finger or hand from the sharp metal prongs where the upholstery is held on. Then I had to do this for two spring frames to do the swap and then re-clip the driver seat top ribbon or band on the passenger spring frame, which was at least a safer job. My seats are from my Pre-71 '02 built in October 1970 so it looks like that spring frame design persisted through the roundie models at least.
  10. Thanks Paul. Not so from what I've found with used driver's seat base upholstery. The passenger seat bases aren't a big deal to find in my experience. I was even fortunate enough that a generous FAQ board member a two hour drive from me gave me for free a complete passenger seat in really nice condition in all respects just by making the drive to pick it up. So that's how I ended up with a spare passenger seat base frame. My original passenger seat base also has mismatched basketweave vinyl and in a completely different embossing pattern than my mismatched driver's seat! So I swapped in the seat base from this other seat and instantly solved my issue with the passenger seat. Then with some added work on my part described above, that solved my driver's base spring frame issue of a broken coil spring, etc. as well. Now just left with the driver's seat base upholstery to rectify. I think it's worth another shot with a WTB ad though because my last one was convoluted with the need for a spring frame as well. If I read your reply regarding "uneven perches over canted seats" correct, I think you are implying that it's likely the height of where the seat rails bolt to is not perfectly level between the two sides and therefore the elevated holes are designed to compensate for that, correct? On a good day I'm only 5'8" so adding washers won't stress critical headroom.
  11. Besides the steel ribbon that conforms to the shape of the pad, here is the other difference I found between the front seat base spring frames. Take a look at these two pics: Note that in the top pic the holes where the spring frame attaches to the seat rails are raised a bit, while in the second pic the holes are even with the frame or flat. The elevated holes are always on the inside of the seat towards the parking brake meaning they are "handed" and the spring frames for driver and passenger seats are mirror images just like they are for that steel ribbon at the top of the frame. Effectively the seat (both driver and passenger) would be angled a bit to the outside. Did they do this to compensate for uneven floor pans to level the seats or are the seats actually angled ever so slightly to the outside for both the driver and passenger? Is that to make ingress and egress that little bit easier or ?? I'm thinking of getting some washers to put under the flat hole side of my driver's seat spring frame to get back the factory "tilt" even though this would raise the seat height up a bit as well since both sides would then be elevated (note I fabricated a driver's seat spring frame from a spare passenger spring frame as described in a previous reply). Or, maybe I'll just reinstall the driver's seat with those elevated holes now on the outside (so the seat would tilt to the inside) and see if I can even tell the difference to justify removing it again and adding the washers. Anyone have a clue as to the reasoning for this difference regarding the elevated holes only on one side in the driver and passenger spring frames? Thanks, Gary
  12. Thanks Paul. I have a decent horsehair pad for my driver's seat that I got from another FAQ member a few months ago--thanks Guy! I'm glad I did that because mine was quite deteriorated and although his was used, it was in much better shape than mine. So my only concern is the driver's seat base upholstery and not the pad. Originally I was going to go with exactly your plan of having an upholstery shop sew in original basketweave vinyl for the center section of my existing driver's seat base upholstery. I even have the basketweave to use to do this thanks to yet another FAQ member. But, I'm seeing that the rest of my driver's seat base isn't a good starting point based on its condition and I'm not finding anyone who has a better one to sell me. That's why I'm considering the GAHH seat base. There is a good chance that when I get it I'll have a shop replace the center embossed section (since it's starting to look like it's not a close match at all for the original basketweave even though it has the right number of pleats) with original basketweave even though it's brand new. Or, I might live with the mismatch for a year or two and deal with higher priority items like my upper section rear seat vinyl and the need for new carpet.
  13. Thanks for the more detailed explanation Steve. I was thinking maybe the seat bases from '75 and '76 weren't "handed" mirror images. That's because it looks like BMW (from what RealOEM states and confirmed by Steve at BluntTech) only sells a single part when you want a seat base spring frame. You have enlightened me in this area. I ended up fabricating my own driver's side spring frame from a spare passenger spring frame I had. This involved removing the passenger spring frame steel ribbon around the top of the frame (a lot of metal clips to pry open) that conforms to the shape of the pad and swapping over the steel ribbon from my driver spring frame. That's the only significant part that's different between the spring frames. There is one other detail difference that I'll post another reply on to see if anyone has a reason for why it is different and if the difference is meaningful. Anyway, here is a picture of the steel ribbon I'm talking about that I had to swap over in order to create a good driver's seat base spring frame (my existing one has a broken coil spring and a couple other more minor issues so I decided using my passenger spring frame was a better way to go). Below that is a pic of both my passenger and driver spring frames as I was working on them so you can see the "handedness" of the ribbon at the top (which is what the horsehair pads wrap over at the edges).
  14. To me, your upholstery looks more like simple tiny squares embossed into the vinyl and not the more complex original basket weave embossing from the factory? Can you confirm this? I just took a look at the samples I received from both World Upholstery and GAHH. Only World sent me a basket weave sample beyond flat vinyl. The World sample though has very close to the correct original basket weave look--I know no one is going to perfectly match the original factory look and as I've learned, even that factory look changed over the production run regarding at least the embossing within the pleats. Thanks, Gary
  15. Interested. Will PM. Thanks, Gary

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