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About Hans

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  1. When i had that problem it was the top gasket. There is a small cover on the bottom that you could re-gasket but I'd look at the top.
  2. Haynes and Blue Book will get you through disassembly/reassembly, but you need a machine shop familiar with old BMW motors, or at least willing to work to close tolerances. Getting the head apart is tricky.
  3. I'd start by pulling the pads to inspect the piston bellows, then clean the surfaces where the pads sit. Use a file to get the rust off top, bottom front and back.. Also clean the metal pad backing plates where they rub. Use a dab of anti-seize paste on these surfaces. Clean the locking rods too. Wouldn't hurt to check tire pressure but I doubt that is it. If that doesn't work, try bleeding. Then its time to order calipers and hoses; but you might as well do the whole system at that point.
  4. Hans


    I've lost Barry's email. Wondered if you could provide. Haven't seen him for a few years.

    George aka Hans

  5. I need the short piece of linkage that snaps on the wiper motor arm.
  6. Any suggestions on removing the oil pan with the engine installed?
  7. What about the drive shaft ujoint? I doubt rear bearings would make noises you describe. Pull the back seat and check for rust around bushing bolt mounting hole.
  8. Assuming they were missing in the first place.
  9. For future reference, best to confirm source of problem before replacing parts. Perhaps drive shaft related? CV joints? I would get the car up on stands , car in park in your case, and turn a tire back and forth to load components. Put your other hand around components to feel for play
  10. If you use ups or fedex you will pay broker fee. Post office cheaper but can be slow. What is ID of bearing. I may have one in ottawa
  11. I found shippi ng to be high
  12. The asymmetric hole cv joints are quite rare, but they can be instaĺled on more common symetrical shafts. If you can find 10 hole inner and outer flanges, you're good to go. You need to boil the boots for a few minutes then use a shoe horn or spoon to stretch that sucker over the T on the shaft.
  13. Regardless of where the dizzy is aligned, with engine at tdc for #1(this is critical), the rotor should be under the plug wire that feeds #1 plug. From there, wires should be in firing order . Tdc for #1 means both valves closed. From there, you can set timing with a test lamp to get it in thr ballpark. Now some dizzys go counterclockwise for some reason.

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