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Hans

Solex
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  1. I'd be very careful attacking the stud holes in the head with a thread making tap. Better to find a thread cleaner. Its very easy to screw up the threads with a real tap.
  2. and don't lose those two round tube things that align the head to block.
  3. The wind chill is going to get the carb below freezing at speed. Back in the day, part of the winterization ritual was to move the snorkel lever to the winter setting. Since you don't have that , perhaps the shield would help a bit. A good dose of methyl hydrate gas line anti freeze might help, but the problem is very cold air blasting by and thru the carb.
  4. I find it easier if you start in in on a slight angle, tehn push.
  5. The problem is that the key can move around in there and may end up in the oil pump sprocket. Why would you not try draining the oil? Did you put a new key in?
  6. I also have twin DCOEs and OEM pump took hours to prime them - for whatever reason. I put Facet on originally to use as a primer pump, then thought 'what the hell" and removed mechanical pump. A few seconds of ticking, and starts right up. Now, I do carry the old set-up in the trip box, and it is a bit noisier than mechanical. Whether you need that for 38/38, I don't know.
  7. I would not have started it. I'd drain the oil and see if I got lucky. No pun intended. Remove drain plug slowly to see if you have magnetic plug with key attached. .Then the magnet in the drain hole. That still leaves the front seal to deal with.
  8. Plastic float I assume. Then yes. With the gasket. I've seen more recommended but went for about 13. Plenty of info on doing that. I painted a line at 33 deg on pulley for use with reg timing light. Seems to me 3 turns out with Spanish dcoes is start point.
  9. are you sure the flywheel doesn't have a TDC mark? Or did it not have a positioning dowel? Much easier to see teh front pulley; challenge is getting a pointer attached.
  10. Good point. In theory....... In any event, I wouldn't sweat trying to locate new shims until I had determined there was a need. I've been keeping an eye on my trailing arms since 1976.
  11. There have been a number of discussions of this on FAQ. My recollection is that you don't need to do the re-calculation if you are using the original trailing arm, spacer tube and shim.
  12. As per Preyupy, I spent hours fiddling with my carbs only to discover a bad plug wire, and more importantly, I wasn't using enough advance. Getting that right made a huge difference. Hence our ongoing return to this step. You need a timing light to confirm what is happening. Swapping jets is down the list.
  13. Ideally you put the same shim/spacer back in the same side.
  14. As Preyupy said, 32 to 34 deg by 3000 to start. That means about 10 deg at idle with a non vac dizzy on my car. I don't know how thoroughly IE checks floats, etc., so doesn't hurt to revisit settings. You may need to make your own paint marks on the flywheel or ftont pulley.
  15. And the timing? Fuel pressure regulator? Float levels?
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