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run4wrd

Solex
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  1. Hi Paul, Count me in for one, please. Many thanks from Van Isle.
  2. What a relief for you it must have been to find the cause of the floorpan misalignment. Congratulations on being able to correct it!!! Very glad to see a new post from you, D.martijn. Always inspirational and informative.
  3. PM sent. I apologize for the delayed reply. Thank you for making this offer. Please let me know if you would still like to sell the driver's side.
  4. Those are very nice spot welds. Everything looks like it lined up well. Unfortunately, it looks as though the person doing the metal work also took off the support brackets that allow the fenders to be screwed onto the A-pillars. Within the last four months they have become NLA (The part numbers are: 41-21-1-826-411 and 41-21-1-826-412). I just recently put a WTB posting up for these. If you have them, luck you! If not, let me know how you solve this. Just getting a 90degree bend on some appropriately gauged sheet metal with holes drilled in the right spots will probab
  5. Gentlemen, Thank you very much for the reply. Unfortunately, within the last five months the global inventory of the left side has been exhausted and there are a few rights remaining. A few of the venders continue to state they both are available, but upon contacting them it is not true (special order item from BMW, and it is now NLA). The A-pillar isn't hard to find, and WN has them on sale regularly. I think it will take a small parts supplier with an obscure inventory to have any at this point. Have a great summer everyone.
  6. Hello everyone, I am looking to replace the left and right supports that anchor the front fenders to the A-pillar. The part numbers are: 41-21-1-826-411 and 41-21-1-826-412 Thank you for your time. Sincerely, Brian
  7. PM sent regarding upholstery.

  8. Saddle brown rear seat upholstery without cracks, please.
  9. Andrew and D.martijn, the progress you are making with your '02s has been very helpful and inspiring. D.martijn, with regards to your query regarding wiring harness tape, check out the 3M tape suggested by bimmerdoc. http://www.bimmerdoc.com/new-and-special-bmw-parts/ I am not endorsing them or their products, but perhaps this is useful information. Keep up the great work.
  10. Congratulations Paul! The award is very well deserved. Everyone visiting this site would have voted for you. Thank you for creating this discussion topic. Very interesting reading from the sharing of an idea to its fruition. Have a safe and pleasant return.
  11. Thank you for sharing your expertise again. I can finally say that the source of the drip has been found. I believe that over time a slow seep from the oil filter head onto the return pipe coolant hose lead to its failure. So, having replaced both the gasket and the coolant hose, the drip from the filter has been stopped. Another problem fixed. Now, I need to address the brake fluid leaks from the slave, clutch and brake master cylinders... I hope that will bring to an end all of the fluid leaks from the car.
  12. Greetings. Would you please provide a measurement of the head height to tell me how much/often the head has been machined? I am only interested as my 121 head is right on the factory minimum. Thanks.
  13. ...or a hairline crack is opened when the filter is tightened... I will pull it again.
  14. run4wrd

    Car purchased!

    Great interior, especially the door panels and carpet! After applying some elbow grease (and rubbing compound) to remove the oxidized paint, your car will really look awesome. Congratulations!
  15. Hi again, The gist of it: The filter still leaks!!! Finally the temperatures were warm enough to allow me to re-install the oil filter mount (Curil T needs at least +5o C). The mount was thoroughly cleaned, and the gasket went on well and the bolts were torqued evenly. Ahead of time, I also cleaned the surrounding area of the engine very well. After the filter mount was installed, I partially filled a new oil filter (Mann) and spun it on. As per the norm, I lightly oiled the gasket and turned about 3/4 turn past contact, blah, blah. I can spin on a filter. I didn't start the car, and the crankcase is still empty of oil. Well, this morning, a drip had already accumulated!!! Damn. The mount/gasket contact to the engine looks clean and dry. No oil from the front timing cover (engine wasn't running and is empty, anyway). No oil coming from the KF pump. Importantly, when the mount was off, I inspected the machined surface where the oil filter snugs up to - it is free of any scratches or gouges. Also, this is a problem that came with the car from the PO. Neither I, nor any of my incompetencies are to blame. Is it possible the filter mount was warped? I didn't believe that would be the source, so I went ahead and remounted it. Also surprising is that the rubber gasket on the filter isn't compressing enough to compensate a minor warp. Has anyone ever had a need to machine an oil filter mount? It is a shame the mount's new hard-to-find gasket is now going to have to come off. The only bright side of this whole fiasco is that I found the return pipe coolant hose (11531254681) desperately needed replacing.
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