OriginalOwner

https://www.hoonigan.com/blogs/daily-transmission/timeless-enjoyment-the-properly-done-bmw-2002 Cheers, Carl

David, I've carried all kinds of big & bulky stuff in my '74tii that I don't think would fit into an E9. As for the looks of the E9, I was at the SoCal Vintage gathering last Saturday in Van Nuys and had to change my shirt several times for all the drooling I experienced when walking past the E9 section. What you need is a quiet motorcycle, ridden sedately on-road ...... here's mine: Cheers, Carl

David, From another born & raised in L.A. kinda guy, the 2002tii is the way to go. I'm still in L.A. and am glad I've had a 2002 all these years, and not a 3.0. Also, when you go off-roading you need the ground clearance that the 2002 has ......... Cheers, Carl

One of my college & Navy classmates. In NOV '74 he drove my brand-new '74tii. In DEC '74 he bought his own brand-new 2002. Picture taken around 1977-ish. Cheers, Carl

as I've mentioned to KenH many times: we need nametags so we can recognize FAQ'ers. Cheers, Carl

My nephew just stopped by the house. He said he saw a 2002 sitting in a used car lot on Laurel Canyon Blvd when he zoomed by heading south on the 170 Freeway (the 170 is elevated above Laurel Canyon). Rising to the google challenge, I surfed around and actually found it ..... the nose profile is quite obvious ...... Lots of pictures here ....... https://www.carsearchusaonline.com/inventory-details/?iid=702981478059769 Cheers, Carl

Hi Raj, +1 mint ...... it's a Woodruff. Cheers, Carl

FANTASTIC !! I know that highway !!!!!! Cheers, Carl

Yesterday my pal Steve spotted this one in Corona Del Mar ....... Cheers, Carl

(and wishing I was there .......) https://www.google.com/maps/@-37.9149327,145.3728936,3a,75y,18.7h,86.31t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1s-_MDjTnP30M9EbABBzSjlA!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo1.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3D-_MDjTnP30M9EbABBzSjlA%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D279.68896%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656 Cheers, Carl

speaking of '93 Ferd pickups ..... my dad's '93 Ranger has a diagram showing how to route the fan belt around this, that, and three other things, not to mention the tensioner (which requires using my 15" breaker bar to untension). A terrifying job just to change the belt. Cheers, Carl

A few years ago I bought a rebuilt driveshaft from Mesa Performance in Costa Mesa. Has worked just fine since, no problems at all. http://www.mesaperformance.com/web_store/web_store.cgi?page=bmwcat/ctrbear.html&category=yes&cart_id=1350034.16025 Cheers, Carl

A fellow over near Melbourne, Australia discusses what he learned ....... http://deebeeengines.com.au/bmw-2002-2002-tii-1602-workshop-guide/ Cheers, Carl

here's a picture I just found from yesterday's South OC Cars & Coffee in San Clemente ...... Cheers, Carl

grizzle, Simple "fix" ...... you have a new thermostat, so remove it, dunk it in hot water and make sure it is actually opening. Just because it's new doesn't mean it works. If it isn't working, the lower radiator hose will be "cold." Hopefully the "fix" is as simple as a bad thermostat. Something else to observe. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Start the engine. When the engine gets to operating temp, and if the radiator isn't 100% plugged, you'll see & feel hot coolant coming into the top of the radiator as it flows in from the head. Theory: with the lower hose being cold, there's no flow through the radiator. Thus by removing the radiator cap, you'll now get flow up and out of the radiator fill spout since the spout becomes an exit location as the water pump pushes it. This is also a check on the water pump to see if it works. Depending on the above, the cold lower radiator hose tells me the radiator itself is "sufficiently" blocked and is the problem (this assumes the thermostat is OK). My thinking tells me the water pump is working to some level to circulate coolant because if coolant wasn't circulating at all, coolant just "sits there" and very quickly gets to boiling and beyond. And thus being a closed system (i.e., coolant circulating only in block and head), it reaches some sort of equilibrium at a very high temp, in this case too high for safe driving. My thought: remove the radiator and backflush to check "blockage factor:" garden hose taped/sealed into the lower outlet and full-blast with the hose, with radiator fill spout pointing at the ground. You'll know soon enough what the blockage level is (if any). In my '74tii I use the original radiator design, and years ago I found a 3-row core (original issue is 2-row). A local radiator shop installed it using the original upper & lower tanks. After that, no more heating concerns with 3 rows. SO, maybe you can find a "bigger" radiator with more rows ?? Cheers, Carl