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About OriginalOwner

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  1. speaking of '93 Ferd pickups ..... my dad's '93 Ranger has a diagram showing how to route the fan belt around this, that, and three other things, not to mention the tensioner (which requires using my 15" breaker bar to untension). A terrifying job just to change the belt. Cheers, Carl
  2. A few years ago I bought a rebuilt driveshaft from Mesa Performance in Costa Mesa. Has worked just fine since, no problems at all. http://www.mesaperformance.com/web_store/web_store.cgi?page=bmwcat/ctrbear.html&category=yes&cart_id=1350034.16025 Cheers, Carl
  3. A fellow over near Melbourne, Australia discusses what he learned ....... http://deebeeengines.com.au/bmw-2002-2002-tii-1602-workshop-guide/ Cheers, Carl
  4. here's a picture I just found from yesterday's South OC Cars & Coffee in San Clemente ...... Cheers, Carl
  5. grizzle, Simple "fix" ...... you have a new thermostat, so remove it, dunk it in hot water and make sure it is actually opening. Just because it's new doesn't mean it works. If it isn't working, the lower radiator hose will be "cold." Hopefully the "fix" is as simple as a bad thermostat. Something else to observe. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Start the engine. When the engine gets to operating temp, and if the radiator isn't 100% plugged, you'll see & feel hot coolant coming into the top of the radiator as it flows in from the head. Theory: with the lower hose being cold, there's no flow through the radiator. Thus by removing the radiator cap, you'll now get flow up and out of the radiator fill spout since the spout becomes an exit location as the water pump pushes it. This is also a check on the water pump to see if it works. Depending on the above, the cold lower radiator hose tells me the radiator itself is "sufficiently" blocked and is the problem (this assumes the thermostat is OK). My thinking tells me the water pump is working to some level to circulate coolant because if coolant wasn't circulating at all, coolant just "sits there" and very quickly gets to boiling and beyond. And thus being a closed system (i.e., coolant circulating only in block and head), it reaches some sort of equilibrium at a very high temp, in this case too high for safe driving. My thought: remove the radiator and backflush to check "blockage factor:" garden hose taped/sealed into the lower outlet and full-blast with the hose, with radiator fill spout pointing at the ground. You'll know soon enough what the blockage level is (if any). In my '74tii I use the original radiator design, and years ago I found a 3-row core (original issue is 2-row). A local radiator shop installed it using the original upper & lower tanks. After that, no more heating concerns with 3 rows. SO, maybe you can find a "bigger" radiator with more rows ?? Cheers, Carl
  6. Your definitive 1968–76 BMW 2002 buyer’s guide https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/07/31/your-definitive-1968-76-bmw-2002-buyers-guide Cheers, Carl
  7. I use contact cement. You apply a coat to each surface and let each air dry for 20 minutes or so. When assembled, the "stick" is immediate and done. Cheers, Carl
  8. +1 Mike ....... and even worse ..... has no one ever heard the phrase, "leave it original." Cheers, Carl p.s. I couldn't resist a bit of editorial comment/commentary ......
  9. I'll add my personal experience. In 2009, from Mesa, I got a rebuilt tii fuel pump. I installed it ...... and it would not run. I un-installed it and returned it to Mesa. They hooked up their battery to it: it would not run. I got a refund. I then did the Keith Kreeger upgrade to a 5-series fuel pump and have been 100% happy I did. http://www.my2002tii.com/tii-fuel-pump_how-to.htm Cheers, Carl
  10. Great Job !!!! but, but, but ...... it's not original !! Part of the fun is fighting a new hose through that hole ...... and then dreading when you will have to do it again. Cheers, Carl
  11. Simply to be specific: Mesa Performance did not do an actual rebuild, they simply sold a rebuilt pump which they got from Fuel Injection Corp. But I cannot remember if you had to give them a rebuildable core. Cheers, Carl
  12. here's some reading on-topic ..... https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/168967-popping-exhaust/?tab=comments#comment-1054796 Cheers, Carl
  13. Wow, first time I've ever heard of points being a problem. Those easy fixes are the best fixes. As for "hunting" idle, my '74tii does that just because it can, perfectly normal for my car. I have tweaked the little screw inside the tuna can and it smooths out. 1,000 miles later, it goes uneven so I turn the little screw in the other direction and it smooths out. Every time I do a tune-up, the little screw needs an adjustment, maybe 1/8th turn is all it ever needs. But that is the only way to smooth the idle for my car. Cheers, Carl
  14. Yes, there is a washer on each side of the banjo bolt. I don't know if they are "crush" washers per se, but they are there. +1 Einspritz: copper washers will work fine. Cheers, Carl
  15. I'm thinking this one: https://www.europeancollectibles.com/vehicles/315/1973-bmw-2002-turbo "they" call it a '73, but it's a squaretail ..... Cheers, Carl

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