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  1. Still available, price reduced. Come take them away.
  2. Pepsi is another option, cheaper and non flammable 😉 Head probably needs to come off at the least.
  3. Hi, I still have the seats. The fronts may be usable but the horsehair pads are rock hard and crumbling. The bottom rear seat metal framework is rusted away in places really not worth repairing. Passenger front, rear upper & lower vinyl looks ok and those seat covers may be worth reusing. The driver seat cover has a few tears. Blue does not work for my car (its garnet red metallic) I would love to see them go to someone who could use them. Thanks, Michael
  4. This is why I don't care for sunroofs here in the rainy PNW.
  5. Rear subframe mount structure on both sides is gone, that's a deal breaker for me. Really a shame. A straight, relatively low mileage, undamaged, unmolested car destroyed by careless storage. All because it started "running bad"😒
  6. Complete blue seat set in rough condition. car sat neglected for 35 years. Metal work rusty. Pads of course are all toast. No cracks or tears in vinyl with the exception of the drivers seat. Come and get them, No shipping, sorry. Going to the metal bin soon.
  7. Update: rust continues to the rear subframe mounts and keeps going. Way out of my comfort some.
  8. Ah yes, the BMS. From product info for an ATX-20 Li ion battery producing 680 cold crank amps: "FULL Battery Management System (BMS) including Over-Discharge, Over-Charge*, Thermal Protections and Cell Balancing." Also from ATX product info: "Per Antigravity Inc.:*Over-Charge protection will not protect from a faulty/old Voltage Regulator spiking Hi-Voltages to Battery. If you have a Pre-1990s Motorcycle replace your voltage regulator; it is over 25 year old and most likely broken by now." OK, so the batteries internal circuitry won't protect from voltage spikes from a failing voltage regulator. This is where I keep running into the term "thermal event"😳 I used to service and repair nickel cadmium aircraft batteries, nasty things with individual cells packed into a stainless steel case and linked together. They were prone to something called "thermal runaway" I witnessed just one "thermal runaway" and all I can say is good thing the battery case was thick stainless steel, with a bolt down top. Apples and oranges maybe but still...
  9. I saw your battery install over in the "sanity check" thread. Very nice clean and squared away. But doubt it leaves enough room for EFI airflow meter, hose, filter ECT. Yes I am aware of that Li ions use a different charger and that's something that concerns me about them. Wondering how well they interface into the electrical system of a 50 year old car?
  10. Theres been a lot of traffic on the forum lately about battery relocation/ options. Trunk, under rear seat, small size AGMs and Lithium Ions near the original battery location. I've been following with great interest and doing a little research as well. The engine/subfame are still out of Survivor 706 and its a good time to get in there and surgically remove the battery tray. Sooner than later I hope, a different fresh 2L engine fitted with 318i EFI will be going in (engines on the stand and a complete, running 85 318i donor is in the barn). When that occurs, the lead acid battery in front will of course, have to go and addressing that now means I don't have to later . The Lithium Ions are appealing but I do still have some reservations so I am wondering: Who is currently running a Lithium Ion and for how long? Any charging issues or alternator failures? What size alternator are you running? Will even a small footprint lithium Ion fit close to the original space when an AFM/airbox/filter is taking up space there? Thanks, Mikey
  11. Me too now, you guys are killing me here! Powertrain is going in on my next day off. No cracks.
  12. Brazing is an option but in my case, the name of this experiment is "fix it with what ya got" I gots an inverter flux core wire welder. I don't gots oxy-acetylene.

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