tech71

You are referring to this one correct? I dont doubt it be reused but based on the degree of difficulty involved in getting at it in an installed engine and the outcome of leakage there... I'm buying a new one, tossed it in my cart with other stuff so shipping is minimal. It's used in a number of engines so theres a good possibility that its available at the local BMW dealer, that would save $$$ on shipping When you Google it, remove spaces between #s and drop BMW in front. It's out there https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&sxsrf=ALeKk03csw6Sn1JnjD2xQhf7diFEkljdIw%3A1606789736345&ei=aKrFX9fDFLuz0PEPqOuu-Aw&q=BMW+07119963466&oq=BMW+07119963466&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQDDIECCMQJzoECAAQRzoFCAAQzQJQ0zlYg1pgj6kBaABwAngAgAFmiAGHApIBAzIuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXrIAQLAAQE&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwjXl9qb3qvtAhW7GTQIHai1C88Q4dUDCAw

I see no cracks, some questionable welding perhaps but no cracks.

Seems like "bridging" stuff is what started your problem. Do you have a test light? Lot less sparks.

Theres World Upholstery and the one that starts with G ( I always forget the rest) And then there's this guy on Ebay who sells both refurbished E21 Recaro's as well as 02 seat covers. Are you considering an upgrade of your front seats to Recaro's ECT? Might actually cost less. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E10-2002-UPHOLSTERY-KIT-STANDARD-FRONT-AND-REAR-BEAUTIFUL-OEM-GERMAN-COLORS/352985105037?hash=item522f8d428d:g:eG8AAOSwMFFbpl18 http://www.worlduph.com/ Thanks, safe and happy thanksgiving to you too.

If you replace the master you may want to have a new inner pedal sound absorber available. Old ones usually just crumble apart. Readily available. Also check your clutch and brake pedal return springs, clutch return spring was broken on mine. If your pedal box is solid I would not mess with it, thats a big bite of mission creep. Some play at the pedal pivots is to be expected. Do vacuum/clean out all crap and lube pivot points. I use a silicone spray in the probably forlorn hope that it will not attract grit cause wear. Removing the drivers side seat will allow better access, 4 bolts, worth it for me. Its not necessary to expend funds on a pressure bleeder, gravity will do most if not all, the work for you. If your lines are old, expect rounding at the 7mm nut on the ferules, PB blaster helps loosen the threads. smaller vise grips will get a grip on rounded stripped ferule nuts. New lines are nice. Dont over torque fittings! snug then an additional 1/8-1/6 of a turn is plenty. Dont know if you have seen this one.

The firewall insulation is out there, PN 51487450110 https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/p/BMW__/Sound-insulation/43816858/51487450110.html https://www.rogerstii.com/bmw-1602-2002-firewall-sound-heat-insulation/

Better hurry folks, these go fast. Thanks Laura

Huh? Wurth Silver Wheel paint, It's out there. I bought mine on Ebay but most of the Big Box BMW parts sellers stock it as well. If you go with Wurth, dont bother with their clear coat. I used lightly applied Rustoleum clear enamel sitting on my shelf. Any clear enamel will do and is cheaper than the Wurth clear. I looked for the vaunted Krylon Dull Aluminum, could not find locally but I didn't try Walmart. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-wurth-parts/wurth-silver-wheel-paint-12-oz-aerosol/892180s~wur/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAqdP9BRDVARIsAGSZ8An6tY5YG5g2bXVKywOslWc7B4GciIvvFEylX1NfY_Y_VpfW8Ifw5pkaAnudEALw_wcB

That poor monkey..

Whatever hit the back did a nice tuck job on the rear bumper.

If you dont have a Haynes manual you should get one. If you do have a Haynes manual sit down somewhere comfortable and read the engine section from end to end. Maybe more than once. It will help familiarize you to components and order of assembly (important) Another words, get better informed. Engines are not particularly hard to reassemble if you follow the instructions. 2002 or 320i will work for engines and i think the 320i manual has much better illustrations. Mine cost $10 on Ebay Probably the brown seal installs into the lower timing cover, its the front crankshaft seal. It does not seal on the crank, it seals on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. one of those two anyway, no other seals there. I am not aware of a gasket/seal cheatsheet😉 Thats a nice big gouge in your #1 crankshaft journal shoulder (12:00 behind crank sprocket ) Engines are not the place to learn through painful, expensive experience

Definitely worth doing when a door is apart , think you need 6 per car. (inside latches and post locks) https://www.blunttech.com/shop/replacement-parts/body-mechanical-trim/52-20-8-238-999 How are your door stops? Nothing more annoying than a big wind gust slamming your door into the fender and bending stuff. Nows the time for that too

I recommend you get some practice on similar gage thin sheet steel like 02 panels. It's pretty easy to blow through, likes to warp and or ripple. With a Mig welder a spot approach can work, minimizing warpage and blow through. Laying down long beads creates too much heat.

Bummer, you know it may not be the bracket. Cars get bent, especially the bumpers and bumper mounting structure. Repairs can restore the appearance and sometimes still leave underlying structure tweaked. How did the old bumper look? Right height? Level?