tech71

I have heard that you can slip a penney inside the cap nut to cap it off?

Looks like it goes to fuse # 11.
This looks like a job for @John76

Go with a 2 ton capacity, 1 ton boom is a bit short. 
Foldable is a plus for storage.
 

This is a sliding section, you dont have it😉
On your 02, the two driveshaft sections are connected with a fairly large nut.
As you can see, thats not the case here, pretty common set up.
This ones from an E30 85 318i.
Use the non sliding section torques especially on that big nut that holds everything together.
Clean and dry and  a bit of blue lock tight wouldn't hurt.
 

Double row on left, single row on right
What ever that is in your pic 1 does not look right

In that case, seals for sure, if the reverse switch works run it.
Make sure the clutch pivot pin is ok, replace if worn.
I like this GL4 Trans oil, can be found relatively cheap on amazon, Summit Racing, Ebay

On my 76 with weber 32/36, that fitting is connected  to carb water choke assembly.

Thats what my home plans said as well but they must have been a little short on concrete... Slab near exterior wall and foundation was a little over 4in but the test hole other side was around 3 in and mostly aggregate, wasn't going to work had to put in a footing on that side. 
I also purchased and installed the epoxy anchor kit, I recommend it especially if your slab is iffy/ strength unknown. It just works better than pounding in the expansion anchors. Especially in marginal slabs. The kit comes with the special anchors and only 1 tube of epoxy... buy 2 more😉if you dont use them you can return. I purchased my extra tubes from Home Depot.
A semi permanent install is far better than dragging the posts out (those suckers are heavy!),snaking hoses on the floor, bleeding system every time you need to use it, a total PITA.
Trying to avoid time consuming back breaking labor here, not swap one crappy task(Jackstands) with another.
I mounted the pump motor on some stringers on wall, added a longer hose on outer side suspended from ceiling with hooks.
Follow the instructions on bleeding religiously! I didn't, it got ugly, still cleaning up hydraulic oil .
It was a challenge to install especially solo but now that its up it works great and I love it.
Dont think I could ever go back to jack stands now.



 
 

121 or 121ti will give you 8.5:1 compression ratio
E21 2.0 will give you 8:1 compression ratio
Either would work fine for a stockish street engine.
The E21 2.0 may be easier to procure, a few new ones may still floating around as well.
They were fitted to 1976 49 state 2002s and 77 78 79 E21 320i
The 320i version works fine but lacks a fuel pump boss so an electric fuel pump must be fitted when using those.
Seems relatively hard these days to find a non cracked 121 head.

Just so happens.... 22MM or there about

 

That relay takes the ballast resistor out of the circuit when cranking to give a hotter spark, if the resistor has been removed it no longer has any purpose.

Yeah, some dampers require that spacer, not sure which ones but they are included with new KYB dampers although you dont need them on a standard 02
Is your car a Tii?
Its rusted in, buy a can of PB Blaster and apply liberally then wait a while, the longer the better.
If you have to, try cutting a slot in the face you can get a punch on  and try to rotate it a bit by tapping. May break it loose, be careful! you're damaging the housing there.
Hope your damper is not rusted in as well, pretty common and your strut housing looks pretty rusty

Not to me, they look like pistons for the E21 2.0 head.
piston in the pic is a Mahle and those are KS but whatever
Have them in my watchlist as well...
Pic 2 is a piano top

Those are castellated nuts, there's a steel, split pin that goes thru the bolt and fits in the notches to prevent nut from backing off.
To remove the nut you first have to pry out the pin.
Newer parts usually have a nylon insert lock nut but nothing wrong with what you have there.

Do you have A/C? Smog? if only running an alternator belt other styles may work.

Yes, difficult if not impossible.
OP if a mod is absolutely required, consider  making the hood removable/retained with  pins. A lightweight fiberglass hood makes sense here .

Forget those numbers, just buy a Glyco main bearing set

I recommend you post in the for sale section.
Thats not good, especially for $500 asking.
Anyone interested is going to at the least, need to know current head thickness. Its important.

Yes, its for a later model 320i maybe early E 30 1.8 liter engine
No points, induction ignition.
Wont work in a 2l 02 engine, unless a 1.8L cam is installed. 
it runs in the opposite direction.
Wonder if you could just change the gear?
No, I suppose not😉
 

Yes

Center track rod also known as center tie rod assembly and its pretty bad isn't it?
Still readily available, I buy Moog, cheaper than OE

I assume you are looking for the OE color as opposed to actual OE paint.
Taiga metallic is BMW paint code 072
Start here:
1976 BMW All Models Colors of Touch Up Paint
WWW.AUTOMOTIVETOUCHUP.COM Touch Up Paint for your 1976 BMW All Models Solid is applied in one coat
2 stage is a base coat with a coat (or 2 ) of clear applied over it.
For metallic paint I prefer 2 stage
You can also visit your local auto paint store and see what they can offer.
Metallic paint is not the best type  for a beginner to learn on, it can go south real fast. Gotta keep those millions of teeny tiny flecks of metal evenly distributed
 

Pretty nice lookin field find, good job!
you need a throttle shaft, probably a return spring as well.
Go to RealOEM.com.  Enter the cars VIN, click on “pedals” to get an idea of what’s needed