Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

83 Excellent


About zambo

Profile Information

  • Gender Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Its actually pretty therapeutic pulling it apart and then putting it all back together, nice and clean, new grease, clamps, etc. If you follow the how-to's and the vids you really can't go wrong and you never have to look at those driveshafts again ... well not for a long time anyway. No matter how far you go, you'll need to re-grease the joints for the new boots - so have heaps of disposable paper towels available as it is one of the messiest jobs on any car you'll do. Here's mine just before I started to reassemble - the clock is to "time" how fast I could do it 😂
  2. Here’s a great article on overhauling the CV joints including boot replacement. http://www.my2002tii.com/july2003-2.htm I did mine not that long ago and taking the driveshafts off is easy enough and overhauling and re-greasing the joint is a pretty cool project ... messy but cool. It’s worth journeying through the various how-to’s you find on the subject - whilst they repeat the same basic steps, often each writer adds an experience they had which you might encounter. This video - in two parts is pretty useful also. Good luck.
  3. Steve, Blowing up the OP’s original pic on my iPhone, it looks like either “1J76” or “11J76” - either way, making it 1st Oct ‘76 or 11th Oct ‘76 I surmise ... Richard
  4. Thanks Mike and Akfjord I installed the electronic flasher 5 years back and was always totally reliable until very recently ... not sure of their lifespans but will try freshening up the ground points as it's always good policy and add an additional ground for the instrument console - also good policy. If that doesn't work, I will sub the same electronic flasher unit out of my '02 [which is still up on stands unfortunately 😕] and see if that sorts it out.
  5. I’m all for the extra ground at the instrument console. I did that on my 02 and it immediately fixed that fluctuation you get on things like the fuel gauge when the original ground connection isn’t squared away. It will give me something to muck about with this weekend.
  6. As the title suggests, the panel light doesn't flicker consistently when I engage the indicators. The lights externally work fine and [when I remember to turn the sound down on the radio] I can hear the flasher unit clicking correctly as well. This is on my E3, but as I have upgraded some years back to the electronic flasher [as on my '02] I assume the advice here will work [as it usually does on all my queries 👍]. So could it be the flasher is starting to lose some of its function or is it more likely an earth at the dash unit? Or something else ...? Eliminating an element such as the flasher units - which are cheap to replace - first crossed my mind, but pulling all the under dash out on the E3 to get at the flasher is a 1.5 beer job , whereas replacing it on the 02 is a blink and you'll miss it exercise, so thought I'd tap the knowledge here first. Cheers Rich
  7. Hi Simeon - any progress on the AC? I’m thinking the boot (trunk) mounted option will suit me to, so super interested in your approach so far and also going forward.
  8. Not sure if this is a cause of your issue or may add to it, but there have been threads on faq that suggest routing the heater core supply to the return isn’t the best option when you take the heater core out of commission for whatever reason - i.e. valve or core leak, removal of heater system for overhaul, etc. Rather the suggestion is that you simply block off the hoses with a 1/2” plug or similar (which I did recently). The rationale behind this I don’t recall off the top of my head, but I thought it had something to do with not adding potential heat to the cooling system when you simply re-route. Perhaps others more knowledgeable can chime in on this as a possible cause/effect or discount it.
  9. OK Steve - “sample” challenge accepted [emoji16]. I did this in about 15 minutes before I lost the light here, so masking off was a bit rubbish and thus the paint line as well. But I think it demonstrates the difference between the two paint effects with the hubcap in place. I know that this comparison isn’t a huge thing, but wheels are pretty important to a lot of ‘02 enthusiasts so this adds to the discussion I guess.
  10. Looking at Mike A’s post at #13 above, I have those original wheels and caps and was thinking of a variation on the traditional colour scheme. I saw a guy here in Oz who had painted the rim black in behind where the hubcap sits, with a traditional silver on the outside lip you can see. Not sure why, but by blackening the area behind the hubcap made the chrome on the cap and silver on the rim really pop. Has anyone else seen this? If you look at the last pic at post #5 above, you could kind of imagine it if you “squint” [emoji16].
  11. I was under the rear end today cleaning the under-body and could see that the foam seal/gasket for the tank was just turning to dust when I touched it. So given scope creep is inevitable in these matters, I'm thinking I'll take the tank out and clean it up and repaint it. Had a look at all the historic posts on the gasket question and think I will settle for the EVA closed cell foam ... questions I have are, is there a particular minimum width and thickness it should be? Is like 25mm x 3mm or 5mm adequate? Thanks Richard

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.