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zambo

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  1. Thanks Hans - I have a day off here in Oz so was thinking of just substituting the new set in. Doesn’t take long to do and has to be an improvement on 15 year (as long as I’ve had the car ... maybe older) old leads. I’ll check the roll test in D but at idle and see. I eliminated the leak at the boosters by removing them from the intake and plugging the point on the manifold. No change in the “stutter”
  2. Thanks Toby - boosters not in the picture (a relief) after following your test advice. Now to find the timing light. It hasn’t been out for years since the Pertronix was set up. I’m wondering whether an internal break or fail in the plug leads (or insulated ends) might be a cause. Had a look in the dark last night and no arcing whilst running. So probably not the insulated ends. I’m just trying to eliminate items that can fail after a tipping point. It just came out of nowhere - the change in idling behavior - leading me to think it points to something that just “gave up the ghost” through fatigue, etc. I’ll keep looking.
  3. Mike - do you have a shot of those adaptors by chance?
  4. Yes Mike - pedal drops a bit when started, not heaps, I’d estimate about an inch maximum. It’s a RHD car.
  5. Do you mean in the interconnected vacuum hose lines Mike? The dual boosters came to me as rebuilt with about 1000 kms on them.
  6. Well done, great pick up. And locally to you - bonus 👍
  7. This only started recently - last couple of weeks. Its got me a bit perplexed. The car has this rise and fall "miss" at idle - though given mines an auto, at idle in P the higher revs smooth it out, but it's there. When in D or R and with foot on the brake (as in idling at the lights, etc), it operates as rough. I hope the vid uploads as a it shows the issue best. The issue appears to properly comes on when its warmed up. I'm running a Weber 32/36 (rebuilt in the last year) and Pertonix (long time) - no issues until recently. I pulled the plugs and they were sooty, so adjusted the choke because it may have been staying on a little longer or not sending the butterfly's vertical once fully warmed up. Hoped this would resolve things. My mechanic - who I haven't had this in front of as yet - saw this vid and said it smacks of vacuum leak. I have run around the carb and intake manifold with WD-40 (no carb cleaner in the workshop) but cannot get it to change tone. Any ideas on this from the collective minds here. It runs fine under full load but that's only because the higher revs are smoothing it out I suspect. I haven't looked at the leads - they are all secure but not sure if a break internally may not be manifesting this on warm up. I have a new lead set in the box from Pelican but thought I'd run it past the minds here first. Thanks Richard IMG_9979 (1).mov
  8. I think the “correct” expression Andrew is you only as old as the women you feel 😁
  9. I'm a middle-ager as well - actually wish I still was! I assume once the push-on lock washer is removed, the "guts" drops out and a locksmith can cut a key ...?
  10. My RHD auto is same set up as OP’s, pretty much. I didn’t realise Tourings would be so different. Thanks for the source to buy from as well
  11. Where did you source the peddle linkage bushes - my “white” ones are toast like yours. Was Jim’s tip a tii specific thing, or throttle linkage general, you think? Thanks Richard
  12. Good point. Not like anyone can actually see it.
  13. I was just closing up my refurbed heater box and struck some interference from the rivets holding the new heater valve bracket to the heater box top. It appears they are preventing the fresh air flap opening more than a fraction of the typical travel. It’s hard to see the issue when the tops in place. There are a second set of holes in the bracket base which I will use to rivet it to the top, after I drill the current ones out. My query is has anyone else struck this? I’m thinking that it seems strange there are optional pre-drilled holes in the bracket when it appears one set of them isn’t suitable anyway and would cause interference. Unless the innards of the heater changed over time, around the shape or size of the fresh air flap which meant the holes I’ve currently used would lead to interference ...?
  14. Just used this stuff on the foam on a heater box refurb... it's the "ducks nuts" as they say in certain parts of the globe. Though I wouldn't be breathing it in too much ...
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