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About zambo

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  1. Not sure if this is a cause of your issue or may add to it, but there have been threads on faq that suggest routing the heater core supply to the return isn’t the best option when you take the heater core out of commission for whatever reason - i.e. valve or core leak, removal of heater system for overhaul, etc. Rather the suggestion is that you simply block off the hoses with a 1/2” plug or similar (which I did recently). The rationale behind this I don’t recall off the top of my head, but I thought it had something to do with not adding potential heat to the cooling system when you simply re-route. Perhaps others more knowledgeable can chime in on this as a possible cause/effect or discount it.
  2. OK Steve - “sample” challenge accepted [emoji16]. I did this in about 15 minutes before I lost the light here, so masking off was a bit rubbish and thus the paint line as well. But I think it demonstrates the difference between the two paint effects with the hubcap in place. I know that this comparison isn’t a huge thing, but wheels are pretty important to a lot of ‘02 enthusiasts so this adds to the discussion I guess.
  3. Looking at Mike A’s post at #13 above, I have those original wheels and caps and was thinking of a variation on the traditional colour scheme. I saw a guy here in Oz who had painted the rim black in behind where the hubcap sits, with a traditional silver on the outside lip you can see. Not sure why, but by blackening the area behind the hubcap made the chrome on the cap and silver on the rim really pop. Has anyone else seen this? If you look at the last pic at post #5 above, you could kind of imagine it if you “squint” [emoji16].
  4. I was under the rear end today cleaning the under-body and could see that the foam seal/gasket for the tank was just turning to dust when I touched it. So given scope creep is inevitable in these matters, I'm thinking I'll take the tank out and clean it up and repaint it. Had a look at all the historic posts on the gasket question and think I will settle for the EVA closed cell foam ... questions I have are, is there a particular minimum width and thickness it should be? Is like 25mm x 3mm or 5mm adequate? Thanks Richard
  5. Try this post I put up when I did mine a couple of months back - good advice all around. This assumes that your diff isn't toast and you are looking for a refresh-style rebuild Toby and others said something in that thread that stood out ... if you aren't seeing any leaks from the main front seal, leave it. It requires a bit of finesse to reinstall and set up with a new crush washer, etc. and after you've taken the diff/rear suspension out, it isn't such a burden (as I discovered as this was my first diff removal) if the front seal starts dribbling in the future and you need to go back in. So if you also leave the bearings alone for each of the driveshafts - after visual inspection - you are left with needing two rotary seals for the driveshaft flanges and a big O-ring for where the driveshaft flanges bolt to the side of the diff case. Plus the diff's rear cover gasket. The rotary seals are available at any good bearing and seal place - if yours is a standard diff, they are a 38mm x 54mm x 10mm seal. The O-rings I got in from either Walloth and Nesch or Pelican - can't recall to be honest. I tried BMW here in Oz and they wanted a million dollars and a three week wait. Part Number for O-ring (x2) - 33 1 13 604 119 Part Number for Cover gasket - 33 1 13 604 117 Hope that helps. Here's mine just before I put the cover back on - if you're inclined, they come up a treat after a few cans of degreaser, gallons of water and then a good paint up.
  6. Just bolting things to this prior to reinstalling it.
  7. Scoob - where did you buy the Penrite? Cheers Richard
  8. I have found the same thing Paul - so far. The old cables came out but one required a little persistence per my post. The new ones went in with no issues at all. I’ve only yesterday morning bolted the subframes to the main axle beam (on the bench) and have set the brakes up loose so once the e-brake lever and cable are connected, it’s just the W spring to go on (hydraulic connections aside). Though I did mis-step initially on the W when I fitted it on the bench only to realize I wouldn’t be able to get the shoe lever out far enough to connect the cable. I guess you learn as you go. The handbrake lever in the car may benefit from that little upgrade with the washers and thin bearing (with threaded bolt to replace the pin). Which sounds a lot like what you suggest. I’ve collected those bits in a baggie a while ago so will pop them on when I install that lever and see how it goes.
  9. So are you saying my success quotient without major frustration will be low [emoji23]?
  10. Thanks Paul - will give it a go.
  11. So I got this assembled on the bench - under spring tension and teeth locked in. I know ... if I move it, it will pop. But I understand how it goes together at least. Only question I have is do the little white foam blocks go one on top of the other, or offset. My instinct says together but as my first boss said on my first day on the job, “if you don’t ask, you won’t get” (substitute “know” in this instance [emoji51]).

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