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'76mintgrün'02 last won the day on April 25

'76mintgrün'02 had the most liked content!

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About '76mintgrün'02

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    Master Tinker

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    Kingston, Washington

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  1. Would the gas dynamics guy suggest maintaining two separate ports under the 38-38? (as you suggested for my 32-36) Why did the factory add a peanut intake near the end of the run? I'd like to talk to the gas dynamics guy about how air enters the carb. The factory air silencer is a tight fit on top of a Weber, but it sure does give a nice smooth entrance. Tom
  2. You could paint the aluminum ones crinkle black. Or powder coat, if you prefer. Faux plastic. Tribute tubes! Tom
  3. Damn Glitch ate my words again. At least I didn't type very much this time. I must be that guy, since I took that photo. In my defense, it shows the work the previous owner had done to the manifold. I wound up making a two hole gasket to replace the oval one that comes in the rebuild kit and tapered the holes to match it. (as seen in the post above) I did do it in place after stuffing the intake with rags and then vacuumed it, pulled the rags and vacuumed again. That's only part of the mess though. I cut a rectangular hole in a large sheet of cardboard, to fit over the intake because the aluminum shavings go EVERYWHERE and stick to everything oily. That really helped contain the mess. Tom
  4. I think the resistor wire that runs to the fuses is correct for a '74. That came up in a discussion a while back, when I was trying to describe where to find the splice in on my '76. I wonder if it has to do with the placement of the coil. The coil was moved to the front in '75, correct? To avoid the heat of the nuclear reactor exhaust manifold? Maybe they just added the length of wire to adapt to the new position. The Blue book lists proper coils per model year and there is variation in the resistance over the years. I think some even had built in resistance, like the blue coil, but it was before blue coils were blue. Blue coils matter too! Tom
  5. Normal, typical, right, but what's wrong with just leaving the resistor wire in place? You can run a new wire beside it, to keep it company. I think they are a cool feature and one in working condition has value. If you snip it you could flip it along to someone in need. Assuming it still measures the proper ohmage, I say pay homage to the ingenious design and keep the German-made black coil sparking, as long as it's warking the way it should. Still good is good enough for me. Newness is overrated and overpriced. Black Coils Matter! (no-offense) Tom
  6. Funny, someone was kind enough to tell me the passenger side brake light wasn't working this morning at an intersection. I too wonder how long it had been out of commission. I pulled into the next parking lot and put one of my reverse lights in its place, since I did not have any spares on board. I did find fuses in the glove box, but no bulbs. Here's what I found when I pulled the bulb. It looks like a drip of cold water fell on the hot bulb and poked a hOle in it. (?) The hole was facing up. I also found a lot of dirt in there, due to the fact that the little seal around the perimeter of the lens is toast. Tom
  7. I wonder if you could put a block of wood up under the low side of the piece that the stalks mount to and give it a couple whacks upward with a (fairly heavy) hammer to make it rotate. Or, whack it down on the other side. Maybe the clamp isn't all that tight. Tom
  8. I dug up the info you sent me and took a screen shot with my camera.
  9. Are you sure the carburetor is getting fuel? Sometimes a compromised hose between the tank and the pump will let the pump suck air instead of fuel. You could have a clogged fuel filter too, I suppose. What type of vehicle are you working on?
  10. Know, it's knot a knock off. GenUine Bosch. The one on the right is the later-style, with the round bottom edge on the body. The one on the left is the typical early-style sharp bottom. The mark will either flutter in place, or keep fluttering towards the passenger side as you rev it higher. I understand that it's hard to see. Practice makes it easier to find a comfortable way to look into the hole. I stand on the passenger's side of the car.
  11. But, but, but... look at the number of the one on the left. (edit- it is also listed in the Bosch parts catalog I have as being for a '74 with standard transmission). (Raine has not given the full number of his, only "008". I took a guess at the rest). Yes, Tom knows, AKA @visionaut . Maybe he'll join the fun. He has documentation with that information. He shared it with me, but not all of it played well with this computer/my brains. I don't remember where that download wound up. Sorry, Tom. It's in my computer somewhere, but I am too lazy to go digging for it at the moment.
  12. That all makes sense to me. OTM? = OT Mark? OTM mark is like ATM machine, or VIN number. Mark mark, Machine machine, Number number. WHo's confyoosed? Carry on. Sounds like you are on track. BB at 1500 is too much advance for my engine. I suspect that factory setting has to do with the use of vacuum retard pods. They set more advance into the timing and then let the pod suck it back out? I dunno. Are you certain that the timing has stopped moving by 2000 rpm? The moving marks under the light are not going to settle down until the axial play is shimmed out. That variance in timing will bring the idle speed along for the ride. It's gonna run crappy no matter where you set the timing. Other causes for moving marks have to do with other worn parts. Most you can see with your eyeballs. You've got to go looking for them though. You're half way there with the dislodged clip in the post. If that post is wobbly on the shaft, it means the cam is moving, which is changing the dwell/timing with every wobble. That particular wear, along with the cam lobes being worn can be improved by installing Pertronix. That's assuming the rest of the unit is up to the task. Look closely to see if the advance is returning to the same number at idle. Weak old springs and sloppy weights and pins, with dirt where there ought to be oil, plus a little rust inside the post, can make them a little "sticky".
  13. Bumping the advance feature up on the light until the OT line shows up will tell you the total advance at that rpm. There is no need to add 25 degrees to that number, unless you are spotting the BB instead of the OT line. (the BB is just a short cut I find useful at higher rpm readings. skip it, if it is confusing and just continue to use the OT line).
  14. His 0231 180 008 is shown as a '74 manual transmission application in the Bosch booklet. It doesn't list the automatic.
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