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About '76mintgrün'02

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    Master Tinker

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  1. I think it is a tie, with the other competitor being a variable advance timing light, such as the Innova 5568. When selecting an AFR gauge, you'll have the choice between a needle and flashing digits. I think the needle-style is more relaxing to watch and blends in better in a vintage car. jmho Tom
  2. This is the first combination-style vacuum pod I have seen with it on the retard side of the distributor. I am guessing it must have been an e21 model. Some of those spun counter-clockwise and had a camshaft with a 'backwards' gear to match. It would be possible to swap a 2002 type gear onto the distributor shaft, but it would not work properly. The early e21 distributors spun clockwise though. Which way does the little arrow under the part number point? The later e21 distributors did not use points. Does yours use Pertronix, or something similar in place of the points; or is it the later style that came with 'electronic ignition' from the factory? More photos of the distributor might be helpful. One of the numbers and another showing what's under the cap. Assuming it was a clockwise spinning unit, the nipple on the backside would be the vac advance feature and the one you've connected to on the front would be vac retard. As Simeon mentioned, you don't want to use vacuum retard. The brake booster fitting with an extra nipple will be manifold vacuum. That will pull full advance in at idle, which will be an additional twelve degrees or so. The way you have it connected now is also manifold vacuum. The ported signal needs to come from in front of the throttle plates. I'd only connect to the pod if I had a ported vacuum signal to work with and I don't believe side drafts have that option. I suppose you could possibly drill and tap the carbs to accept those cool little barbed fittings you have, but I've never read of anyone doing that. If you do not have a variable advance timing light, I'd suggest ordering the Innova 5568, for around $100 delivered to your door. I'll also suggest adding a WB 02 sensor, if you have not already done so. Tom
  3. I usually grab the wheel itself and twist it on, with the shaft installed in the chuck, so you can pinch the chuck with your other hand. The shaft is a little too small to get any torque between your fingers. The friction grabs the head of that tiny screw. I don't usually use a screw driver. I often use the same technique with the angle grinder, grabbing the wheel like the lid of a jar and twisting, while locking the shaft.
  4. I'm not really trying to argue, but here's a clip from the link above You are correct, stainless steel is a really poor conductor compared to most metals. This source lists it as 7.496×10−7Ω⋅m which is more than 40 times worse than copper. At least I did not say really poor It is the quickest metal I've welded, when it comes to puddling up. It makes a much stronger cable than copper or aluminum, that's for sure.
  5. I put these on CL as well and had someone ask if I'd ship to Chicago. I said no. Bumping, hoping to generate local interest. Local pick up, or meet up. I don't want to ship them. ( I don't get to Seattle much, but will be going to SeaTac (driving down through Tacoma) on Wednesday, 8-21 ) Thanks, Tom
  6. The bolt is really just a clamp, making contact between the body and the end of the ground strap. Stainless should be fine, I'd think. Stainless is a poor conductor though, of both heat and electricity. That makes it fun to weld, since the puddle appears right away. As for the electrical physics involved, there's this: "The chromium atoms disrupt the regular iron lattice and increase the chances of inelastic collisions with moving electrons. " https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/92960/why-is-stainless-steel-a-poor-conductor-of-electricity
  7. The factory manual is available on this site in the articles section https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/history-and-reference/bmw-2002-service-repair-manual-r247/
  8. I can't answer your question, but have one for you. What sway bars are you using now? Tom
  9. I really like the little malaga colored cut-off wheels that are about an inch in diameter, with a tiny screw hole in the center to mount the arbor. Not the quick loc larger wheels that are reinforced with fiberglass. They come in a few thicknesses and it is nice to have at least a couple on hand. They are very brittle and the heavy duty ones are a bit thicker and more durable. It sounds like you might need to epoxy a new stud into the grille, once you get it apart. Here is a kit with a variety of those wheels, just meant to be a reference. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-688-01-Piece-Rotary-Cut-Off/dp/B00005LEY1/ref=pd_cp_469_3?pd_rd_w=B8i8J&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=J9JEGQC0DDAQ4NYXE50E&pd_rd_r=335fef71-c10e-4796-a48f-5c16a3f41573&pd_rd_wg=VM5dy&pd_rd_i=B00005LEY1&psc=1&refRID=J9JEGQC0DDAQ4NYXE50E
  10. another approach would be to put a little ceramic cut off wheel on the dremel and slot the end of the bolt, so you can put a little screw driver in the slot and turn the nut. Once loosened it might come off easily. it looks like there is some black glue or something behind the metal tab. sometimes I zoom in on my photos to see what I am dealing with.
  11. No! It sounds like the later cars do use a different location for the ground strap to fender. It is part of the bracket for the relays. Here is a photo of mine.
  12. on my '76 SqUaRiE it shares a ground point on the fender with a bunch of other brown wires. Guessing yours would be the same.
  13. less depressing than sitting on hundreds of dollars in repair panels, then realizing the severity of the situation. parts prices might make it worth your while to sell some of them off. in the for sale section on this site it is preferred that you list the asking price, as opposed to asking for offers. eBay auctions are another option. clean the parts up and post a lot of photos. the parts may be useful to you though, if you do find a better one to work on. the rust you see is the tip of the iceberg, as they say. I've seen enough already to judge the rest of the car. I've also seen heroic efforts put into bringing cars back and fear that the repairs are temporary at best. Cutting out rust holes to weld little patches to thin rusted metal will not last long. I just hope those cars never get wet, or the (next) owner is bound to be disappointed. Painting is so expensive to do right that future blistering would suck. I love welding, but would not attempt to restore this car.
  14. Hold off on buying any new parts until you learn a bit more. It is not looking promising, based on your photos. Sorry. Tom

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