'76mintgrün'02

Solex
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About '76mintgrün'02

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    Master Tinker

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Kingston (the evergrün state)

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  1. '76mintgrün'02

    Door and window seal installation

    your seal looks much fresher than mine does. it looks like you may just need to tip the window in towards the car at the top, by moving the bottom of the track attachments out a little. You don't want to overdo it or it puts stress in the door and over compresses the seal. It is a fussy process, but satisfying. The rear and front attachments have to play well together, so the window does not bind and it stays snug up against the wing window. I'd mess with that before spending money on seals... but I am basing this on a couple of photos of just one area. Do a little searching on door window adjustment in the archives. Tons of info buried there. Remember the photos I shared is with an innertube shoved in there to fill the outer gap. I am tight on the inside edge and satisfied for now. The innertube insert could be misleading your expectations. I removed that.
  2. '76mintgrün'02

    Shift Tower Bushing Info Needed

    RealOEM is a great site for finding part numbers. These are two images that c.d. posted years ago, highlighting the common wear points. Seems like he might have been being funny, since everything is highlighted. Yours will be the later style, assuming it is original.
  3. '76mintgrün'02

    Shift Tower Bushing Info Needed

    these are them While I agree with having the parts on hand prior to tearing things apart, I suspect you will find that it needs more than these two bushings. The little plastic bushing is one from the link that connects the shift lever to the transmission. In my car, it had been bad for so long that it also ovalized the tube it fits into. I replaced the plastic one with some slightly modified bronze bushings from the hardware store. There are kits for the shifter rebuild. Blunttech carries them. I'd suggest adding the knuckle that is attached to the shifter shaft coming out of the transmission. It is held in place by a little pin that gets sloppy. I need to fix that on mine still.
  4. '76mintgrün'02

    Can't get the starter to spin!!!

    The engine number originally matched the VIN for the car, but it looks like yours has been swapped. At least the head anyway. They stamped the engine number onto that flat spot over the starter's attachment. Posting that number here will let Conserve have fun pinpointing the date for you. Be sure to get a two legged ground strap, or cable, with the big one attaching to the block and a smaller one attaching to the inner fender next to the relays. I'm guessing you might be due for a positive cable too. Buy the kind with the cable already attached to the clamp. NOT the kind with a thin bar and two bolts that clamp down on a cable. They're crAp. Not this style
  5. '76mintgrün'02

    Can't get the starter to spin!!!

    Without that strap attached, other smaller wires, or accelerator linkage, or whatever, will try to make the connection. That'll cause bad things to happen, like melted wires. I made a couple of green arrows on your photo. The bottom one points to a melted wire that will need to be replaced. Also look at that taped up wire between the back of the alternator and the front timing chain cover. That should be a nice thick ground wire and they often need refreshing. The top one points to the production date of your head, indicating that it is from 11/75 (10/75?), so a '76 model year head, yet the distributor is from an earlier car and so is the placement of the coil. What year is your car? Where are you located?
  6. '76mintgrün'02

    Can't get the starter to spin!!!

    the battery's negative terminal
  7. '76mintgrün'02

    Can't get the starter to spin!!!

    When it comes time to get it running, don't bother connecting a vacuum line to the pod on the distributor. Vacuum retard was an emissions feature and I am guessing you'll be doing away with the emissions bits that related to it anyway. I added a red arrow to your photo, pointing at the typical attachment point for the ground strap to the block. You can sort of see mine in this photo.
  8. '76mintgrün'02

    Race engine with no dipstick

    Here are some photos of mine, from when I removed the aluminum air pump bracket. (the big bolt head beside the dip stick tube is plugging a hole to nowhere)
  9. '76mintgrün'02

    Black stock shift lever?

    Yup, mine's black. The e21 levers are aluminum, fwiw.
  10. '76mintgrün'02

    Can't get the starter to spin!!!

    it is hard to tell in the photo, but is the ground strap securely fastened to the engine block? the strap looks a little tired, so I would inspect the clamp end too, as well as the little strap that attaches to the inside of the fender.
  11. '76mintgrün'02

    Weber DGAS 38 throttle shaft issue (URGENT)

    I believe the slip joint where the rod enters the firewall allows for engine movement and you will need enough clearance to the hose to allow for that. It looks like less than a quarter of an inch of shaft length difference; if that little bit is all you need to make it work then maybe cutting the shaft off is the easiest/best fix. (?) I'd do it with the nut/washer in place. Might even add an extra washer and cut flush to the nut, then pull the extra one out. It'd suck to find that it is too short someday, but that is probably just paranoid thinking.
  12. '76mintgrün'02

    Weber DGAS 38 throttle shaft issue (URGENT)

    Could you just run a nut onto the shaft, then the linkage piece, then another nut with the retaining tab washer under it? Simply spacing it out by the thickness of the nut? (32-36 here, so maybe I'm off base) Tom
  13. '76mintgrün'02

    WTB Air cleaner & Smog stuff

    Do you have photos of that adapter, by chance?
  14. I would leave them as-is, unless they are cracked. I've read that the new rubber is a crap shoot, as far as longevity and the CV joints are very long lived in the 2002. Tom
  15. '76mintgrün'02

    engine idle sputter and backfire problem

    Brass floats are set at around 40, but the plastic ones are to be set at around 35. If they are old plastic floats they may be too heavy and not floating as they should. If you order new floats, I'd suggest getting brass ones. There are a few jetting prescriptions in the archives and I chose the one from c.d.eisel. It works well for me, but the AFR gauge said it was a little rich, so I used a larger air corrector on the primary side. Seems quite happy now. You can make note of the jet sizes while resetting the float height and might consider ordering the ones you need in order to have c.d.'s prescription. I have a 185 primary air corrector, fwtw. Tom