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'76mintgrün'02

Solex
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About '76mintgrün'02

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  1. One of the two Meyle strut bearings I ordered had softer rubber than the other and it poked up higher above the fender; so the vendor replaced it. They're both standing pretty tall now and I suspect the one on the driver's side might be causing the little clunkedy noise I am hearing when going over small bumps at low speed. The ones I took out looked about like the OP's, so I saved them. They have little BMW emblems in the rubber, which implies OEM. I'll probably put them back in some day. They may be better than the eight year old Meyle's I have now. I'll keep dlacey's warning in mind... Tom
  2. The DFEV can be used in air cooled VWs (but not the DFAV, since there is no Acqua). Since Eric has a Ghia, I'm guessing that might have something to do with the revers-ery. To be used on a 2002, the DFV carbs would need to have a cable actuated throttle, since the throttle shaft would be facing forward. Either that, or the primary and secondary would be sitting over mismatched hole sizes on the intake and throttle shaft alignment would probably be offset. Perhaps a peanut-holed manifold could be used though... I don't know. The throttle plates might also rotate the opposite direction... I've forgotten. The shape of the inlet on top of the carb is oval-ish-ly shaped on the DF series, not rectangular-ish, like on the DG models. I had a DFV carb and intake for a bug, but sold it a few years ago. I never ran it. The problem they have in that application is that most of the intake manifolds are not heated well enough and they ice up. The manifold I had was the typical crappy kind. I wish I still had that carb now, so I could share some photos of it on an M10 intake. I dug a bit, but could not find my old photos. Tom
  3. That is a pretty drawing alright... misleading though it is. My car idles best down around 12.5, so I think you're doing well with it as lean as it is. I'm new to all of this though. Remember that brass and plastic floats get set at different heights. Brass around 40 and plastic around 35 mm I believe. Give the auxiliary venturies a wiggle to make sure they are snugly pressed in. Sometimes they need a little shimming to be tight. That looks like a brand new carb though, so they're probably fine.
  4. I think you have them backwards in your brain. The primary is on the passenger's side. Does this mean you need to swap jets side to side?
  5. Good stuff Buckeye. Californian distributors have different curves/timing requirements. I've always found the BB at 1500 to be too much advance for my engine. (It sure gets recommended a lot though). The CA. distributors also have the combination adv/retard pods. I'd cap the retard side and connect the advance side to ported vacuum. What Jeff said about total advance being all you can control makes sense; but you are simultaneously adjusting the whole curve, affecting advance at idle as well. I like setting timing to a total advance target and then using a variable light to see where the BB falls and what you're left with at idle. I don't think the idle cut off solenoids are a bad thing... except when they go bad. I'm glad to have one again. It is stressful (and sometimes embarrassing) to have a car burble and sputter when you shut it off in a parking lot. Tom
  6. The strut spacers came in two thicknesses and it looks like you have the thicker ones. That line is just a seam from the casting process, not two spacers. My car has the thicker spacers too and they have that line around the inside. I removed the spacers when I installed lowering springs, then a few years later, I reinstalled the spacers on top of those, which puts me pretty close to a stock non-spacer ride height, I think. fwtw. I also installed Meyle strut bearings and they are a bit deformed after just eight years. I was a bit disappointed to see that little white sticker. Tom
  7. Another issue might have to do with their diameter. Too big and you will have to adjust the throttle linkage to get full travel. Big wheels will also move the contact point with your foot closer to you. You'll also need to add a keeper collar, like in the photo I posted above. I installed that one right after I kicked my roller off of the shaft, trying to keep up with you at the Harvey Field Fall Colors Drive. (I miss that event. That was a nice rural drive). Tom
  8. Spot on 25 degrees of advance at 1500 rpm anyway. The distributor model and condition/functionality will determine the rest of the timing curve, (obviously). If it is the stock 49 state distributor, its number ends with 164, (correct?). That one has a vacuum advance pod. Is the pod connected? Using ported or manifold vacuum source? The pod was disconnected when setting timing, right? The smooth idle is a good sign. How many degrees of advance are you getting at idle? What is the total advance, with the BB at 1500 rpm? Just for the sake of comparison, my '76 has an 021 distributor, with the advance pod connected to the ported nipple. The BB is set at around 2150 rpm. It is giving about 9 degrees advance at idle and 38 total mechanical advance. When I had only 6 degrees at idle, I found that a change in plug gap made it quite unhappy, since I was on the edge of too little advance. I use the BP6ES and have them set to .028", iirc. I too was having trouble with some run-on after shut-down, but no backfiring. I reinstalled an idle cut off solenoid and that fixed the problem... or symptom. It stops with the key now. The previous solenoid had been removed, due to intermittent sticking (like Marty mentioned). The new one makes me happy. You say you eliminated the fuel return feature, but I am a fan of having a way for the fuel pressure to bleed off after shut down. I guess that is a separate topic. Tom
  9. Now we're talking, you could install the wheel along with it! I've seen the wheels used on VWs. They are pretty big, rounded and plastic. They do look slippery. The coolant hose I put over my roller makes it nice and grippy. It feels super smooth, under smooth soled shoes. ( : I'm having my own fun in your thread, Nathan : ) Tom
  10. The AGM battery that came in my car when I bought it eight years ago is getting weak. I can still get the same AC Delco battery for about sixty dollars more than a NAPA lead acid battery. I'll admit a strong pull towards the AC Delta battery is a little sticker that says "Made in Germany". If not for the cost difference, I'd buy that one again for sure... tough choice. Once the silly warning stickers are peeled off, it is a very clean looking black battery. Not a Tii battery though, so, I'll shut up now. Tom
  11. ...and there is a tiny dimple on the lip of the knob, showing you where the hole is located.
  12. I don't think I've read that suggestion before... unless it is being used with MSD ignition. I could be wrong though... I use points and a condenser. Tom


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