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'76mintgrün'02

Solex
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About '76mintgrün'02

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  1. The measurements are different, depending on whether you have plastic or brass floats. Here is the post where I shared that photo. Here's one where c.d. shares some words of wisdom (various carbs)
  2. ... and RealOEM was referring to the 242 and 245, not the 240.
  3. I don't know whether this will be helpful, but the plate for the 245 looks the same in the RealOEM diagram and they give a part number for that one. 01 Covering plate 1 09/1979 09/1982 21110670050 $7.16 Searching that part number on RealOEM gets this other number and says it was used on the 242. Superseded by: 24111205541
  4. The ground wire on my stock alternator runs from a nut on the back (like Eric's, but on the passenger's side) over to the bottom bolt on the upper timing chain cover.
  5. Hey, that's great Steve! I'd never heard of Sili Kroil, but it sounds slippery. I just read a review of the stuff, titled "stinky magic in a can" which said "... the stinkiness is unique, and fairly lasting. SO be careful where you use it. Not so great for regular lubrication of most things in your house, as it will stink the place up...." The Tri-flow has teflon... which also sounds slippery. I like WD-40 for cleaning dirt off of my carburetor. I like the smell of it too. This is a fun little trick you can do with the straw, where you spin it between your fingers, while holding the end near a small flame until it droops over. It takes just a second or two before it makes a little 90 degree tip, for shooting up into hard to reach areas. It might help get oil up into the lower bearing. Tom
  6. If you are sure it is not working, you could snip off the pin and put it back in. That should get you up and idling again.
  7. You need to give 12V positive power to this spade connector on the idle cut off solenoid, so it will pull the pin out of the idle jet and allow fuel to flow. (switched power -- on with the ignition) Here is one on the bench with power off and power on. see how that little pin retracts? the idle jet is pressed into the end of this solenoid (removed for these photos).
  8. I'll share the link for a dime. 😁 PayPal Preferred. (Friends and Family).
  9. ... and where are the photos? this thread needs some pictures! From the torque specifications: Idle shutoff valve 1.8 - 2.2 ft. lbs..
  10. well, the click sound is typically due to the needle retracting. give the solenoid a full 12V and see if it moves.
  11. The solenoid should have 12V with the key in the on position, sounds like you may have a wiring problem. If you remove the solenoid and pull the idle jet out of the end of it, you can give it 12V and watch the needle retract. You can also hear a clicking sound with power applied when it it installed. Maybe try a 12V jumper wire?
  12. based on the shape of the underside edge of the distributor body, the one on the car is the older style and the other is the new style. The mechanical advance weights and springs are quite different in the two. The one on the car now looks to be a vacuum advance model, whereas the other is a vacuum retard. If you use the retard distributor, you would use it as mechanical only and not add vacuum to the pod. I've never read of an advantage to the vacuum retard, aside from emissions concerns and they were turned on and off strategically, to serve that purpose. (beyond my understanding). It really comes down to condition and how well the weights and springs are still functioning. A tight mechanical only distributor is better than a loose vacuum advance unit... although vac adv is a nice feature. You can learn a little bit about how the distributor is functioning with a non adjustable light. $4 well spent! The adjustable variety is like having a Sun Distributor Tester in the palm of your hand though. You can plot the advance curve with it and learn what the advance is at idle and full advance and stuff like that. Fun topic... but I tend to type too much about it.
  13. why throw an electric pump at it? I'd rather spend those dollars on an Innova 5568 timing light and see what your distributor is doing. Online pricing gets one to your door for under $100.
  14. I suppose that could be the reason, but it's hard telling, not knowing. If the belt's slipping due to pulley misalignment, then the bushings were due for replacement anyway. If the problem persists, you can dig deeper. I liked the suggestion of oiling the support bearing to see if it quiets down.
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