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About '76mintgrün'02

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  1. Is the center post moving freely on the shaft? Weights don't typically stick at their pivot points, but the post can develop friction that doesn't let it return, if it is not lubricated periodically. Before you run out and buy a 123, may I ask a couple more distributor questions? How deep into the distributor did you go? Did you go in from the top, or drill the gear pin and pull the shaft out? If that is indeed a NOS unit, I would not send it in for a rebuild. There is some adjustment built into that early style distributor. I'd try that first (next). If you drill the pin and pull the shaft, you'll see that the tabs that the springs attach to are adjustable from the underside, by loosening the two screws and turning it. That will put more or less pressure on the weights' lobes and alter the curve using the original weights and springs. No new parts needed. The screws that hold that piece on have little tiny wave washers underneath that will allow you to put enough tension on them to stay put, but still reach down and move them to make adjustments and test the results with your variable timing light. Then when you get it right, you can tighten it back down. Or, you can set it tight and try it; rinse/repeat, until satisfied. It'll be a little tedious, but it'll be fun too. You'll have a much better understanding of (than just sending it off) and if you use a roll pin in place of the solid pin, it will be easy for you to get back in to perform the routine maintenance that will keep it working smoothly for years to come. NOS distributor.... mmmmmm. Please post a photo or two, if you dig into it. Tom
  2. Is that an IE replacement distributor (not Bosch) with an electronic points replacement (not PerTronix)? I kind of hope so, since I've been wondering what they look like inside. If it was oily inside, that's probably due to oil wicking up the shaft. It will not reach up into the center post that way. The center post needs to pivot freely on the shaft. Stock distributors have a felt plug in the top of the post, but yours looks like rubber, or something. Marty's question is a good one. A sticky post will make the advance slow to return to zero. Try putting some oil down the center of the post and see if that frees it up. If you're saying that the weights don't pivot freely, they need lubrication. What else could it be? The base of the post is what pushes the weights back, due to spring tension. It should affect them both the same way, due to geometry. It is the position of that post that determines the advance being offered, not the position of the weights. Does the spring that we can't see have a long loop on one end, or are both ends round, like the one up front? Those plastic-tipped weights look similar to what was put inside the Bosch 009 VW replacement-distributors, except they used two different (asymmetrical) weights. Only one of them looked like yours. The post cam lobes are sure round on that one. I don't think it was designed with points in mind; but was made to work with a magnetic ring. Thanks for the photos. Hopefully you'll provide some more information. Tom
  3. my Snapper mower deck rusted through in the center, so it's been put to pasture. the John Deere cuts a swath half again wider, but it's a much bumpier ride than the pivoting Snapper design. The Snapper Hi-Vac system, with wings attached to the blades did an awesome job of catching the clippings. I miss that old mower. That big leaf spring under the seat went away on the later designs. I added a couple box spring coils to mine... plus a couple other things. It's a rat-rod-resto-mod mower. Old VWs also used a wire insulation boot on the generator that's like the one on our alternator. I finally sold the last two VW shells and am happy not to have to mow around them anymore. This is what's left of the '68. (this thread was done, right?)
  4. Godslove joined Jun 1st and has a content count of 5, yet those posts are not listed when viewing their activity. So, where did they go? We cannot delete entire posts, just the content. They have a neutral feedback score, as in none. Why not give them a red X and post a warning in the feedback section? People might wake up a little bit if they see a negative feedback score. Godslove last visited the site on Thursday, at 3:23 PM. It's been a while since there's been an "I got scammed" thread on the forum. Sorry for your loss, as they say.
  5. edit- I'm too lazy to retype all the text that got lost in the process. Maybe I'll come back and do it later. Sorry. Yes, Ken. My van was like that one, but without the aluminum grille. Mine was the early style, which was painted steel.
  6. I don't have experience with that kit, but for me, a 32-36 is a better solution. There are plenty of threads in the archives where we've duked it out which is better, the 32-36 or 38-38. If you're on the fence about that part, they might help you decide. I appreciate the fuel economy and more gradual pedal feel with the smaller carb, but others love the peppy pedal with the big one. I also appreciate the stock air cleaner. The little one on your single barrel can be made to work and will be an improvement over the one in the kit. The two barrel air cleaners are even better, especially if you can keep the domed intake intact when you install it. You have the single barrel manifold already, so you could use the coolant section from the bottom of that on the one in the kit. Or, you could buy a used stock manifold and open it up to match the ports in the underside of the carb. It is a bigger job with the 38-38 than the 32-36. Tom
  7. I had a '69 Econoline 1 Ton SuperVan and that thing was d u r a b l e. Shoulda kept that one. I love the snub-nosed early years. My '72 Chevy C20 Custom-Deluxe Sub-Urban would pull that car home, but the fuel bill wouldn't be pretty. Do you want to borrow Rapunzel? She's not quite as cozy as jp5Touring's Super-Duty rental though. 325,000 miles on that 402 Big-Block and it just keeps getting smooother. (it's a rusty old beater... but I do love that truck) I tend to agree with the rental truck idea, instead of stressing the Subaru. Tom
  8. Face shield AND goggles. Cut off wheels are made of nasty shit. I'm really starting to dislike the way they taste. When I was grinding on the floor of my car I got a chunk of junk in my eye and it stuck. By day two, I knew I had a problem and so I held my camera up to my eye, while I aimed it using the mirror and shot some photos I could zoom in on. That's when I decided I should go have it picked out of my eyeball. No damage done, luckily, aside from the $1600 dent in my bank account. The funny thing is, I was wearing goggles at the time; but chose the crappy fitting ones, so I wouldn't dirty-up the good ones. Thanks for sharing the progress. It's inspiring to see that car coming along. TOm
  9. Nope, the top cup/cap can rotate with the strut/shaft, to align the spring with the fixed bottom end/cup. Edit- if you were asking about the rear springs, the bottom rubber pads key into that nub and the top ones can be aligned to fit at the upper end, since there isn't a nub up there.
  10. BUT, it's time for a new windshield. I think I heard the rock hit at around the four minute mark and the crack started shortly there after.
  11. This might be more appealing, if he did not have a rebuild in the works. That one might do the trick, without needing to spend another $500 and fiddle with lap tops, or phones, or whatever. I can see how it'd be hard to be patient and wait for the rebuilt one to arrive, but that's what I'd suggest. I would nOt drive the car with the advance set the way it is now. Yes, Jeff does it'll be interesting to see the curve he puts in the one he sends back to you. There are two pins on the bottom of the center post that the weights push on as they swing out. The pins get flat spots where they contact the pins and the weights get grooves from the pins as well. One of the pins is longer and it passes through the slot in the weight, down into a hole in the plate. That hole is what limits the travel/timing advance. The pin and hole both wear there where they meet and that adds more advance too, since it lets the center post rotate farther. The most common way to limit advance in these early-style distributors is to weld up that hole in the plate and file the weld back to the point that gives the desired advance. The other thing you will notice if you take it apart, is that the little springs have shiny flat sides where they've rubbed on the center post lobes. That weakens the springs and the curve starts sooner. I've taken a few of that model distributor apart and posted photos in my long distributor thread. Here's a link, if you want to see some photos of what the bits and pieces look like. Have you installed the other 0231151008 distributor you have, to see if it is any better? Tom
  12. That is T00 high and too much advance is an expensive mistake to make. No doubt it runs best at the lower rpms with the distributor set where you have it, but once it passes 3k rpm, you enter the danger zone.
  13. That distributor will keep adding advance to (at least) 3500 rpm, based on info provided. 36 at 3000 will give 41 at 3500. You can change what the all-in total-degrees of advance will be by clocking the distributor, but not the rpm that it happens; without getting inside the distributor and making changes. I'd try that other 0231151008 and see if it is offering up less advance... so you'll have some left at idle, when you dial down the total.
  14. Why? EDIT, nnnevermind. I did a search of Bilstone and got 18 hits. I found this quote, "They're still famous for being awfully stiff in compression, and thus, kind of uncomfortable..."
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