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About '76mintgrün'02

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    Master Tinker

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  1. The pin next to my oily pulley is not very close. I've not bothered cleaning it off, to look for marks. The instructions in the Blue Book say to use the driver's side of the oval hole to align the mark. That side is actually flat at the bottom of the hole, making it possible to be very accurate when you sight down it. Standing over by the battery to use the pulley also puts you too far from the distributor. I'm not sure what you mean by it taking two hands to use the flywheel hole, unless you mean one on the light and one to turn the distributor. When I marked my BB I also made a line behind the ball, to make it easier to spot. That BB is pretty far forward on the flywheel. Now I just use the OT line, which I also painted white. Good job buying a variable light, Moto. IMO that is an essential tool. Tom
  2. Do you have the bracket that connects the downpipe to the transmission?
  3. The earlier version of that four spoke wheel had a hard plastic grip, whereas the later ones have a soft foamy one. The '74 would have had the plastic grip, but I do appreciate the soft grip on mine. (I am not sure which style the '75 cars came with... plastic or foam?)
  4. Hopefully it is not clutch juice. I've replaced the clutch master cylinder twice in my car, due to leaking. When I first read the title of this thread, I was going to suggest cleaning the inside of the glass. I cleaned mine when I was in there fixing the odometer and it really seemed to help. Then I read that you'd already cleaned yours. What did you use on the glass? It's been several years since I cleaned mine and now they're fogging up again, occasionally. One thing I recently learned is that it is a bad idea to use compressed air to dust off the cluster face, because it blows dust IN. So I will be back in there cleaning them again... hoping it helps with the fogging as well. My car lives in a damp carport and fogging on the inside of the windows can be a problem. I always keep a spare wiper blade next to my seat and with a quick swipe, I can see perfectly again. I consider it a necessary piece of equipment, for safety reasons. It is also handy for the outside of the windows. Tomorrow night the weather is predicted to switch from wet to white here; so today is the last day I'll be driving the BMW for a while. Hopefully there'll be plenty of nice warm rain before the 020202 meetup, so the roads will be salt-free again. It's nice knowing you have another '02, Stu. I'm hoping you'll bring another trunk-full of dOnuts!
  5. Mine too Bob! Do you use the Blue book method of setting the dwell, while using the starter to spin it? Boss Ket's company, GM finally perfected their points design and then they became obsOlete in 1975. (just one year before the 2002 was perfected) My '72 Chevy spoiled me, having a little sliding door on the distributor cap through which you adjust the dwell with it running. Close the door, done. Here is my faux-copy-knock-off attempt that fits in (some of) our little distributors. Traditionally, we're taught to set the timing to follow the changes in dwell, brought on by the consumption of points. I think this is because setting timing is easier than dwell. GM changed that. (Resetting dwell also brings timing back into spec. at the same time). I was honestly disappointed the other day, when I clipped the dwell meter on and it was set at 61, with 60 being where I'd set it. Close enough not to warrant messing with it, I thought. Then said the heck with it and grabbed the Allen wrench to indulge in dropping it that one degree. I poked the wrench through the hole and could not find the adjuster. I kept trying, thinking it's never been this hard before... maybe it's broken. I actually pulled the cap, before remembering having installed this dust shield. I guess I have child proofed my adjuster. I checked the advance and still had 9 degrees, with the idle at 850 rpm. Not much tune up fun to be done that day, but it still made me happy in other ways. It's nice when it stays in tune. I did find some stuff to fiddle with, such as cleaning the crust off of the cap's contacts. back down to that nice shiny copper Pushed a booger of grease back in front of the rubbing block too. (yes, I suppose there's such thing as too much) I also wiped the rotor's nose. The spark's ark mark was fairly centered on the tip. To some people points are a hassle. To others they're more like a hobby. Which model distributor do you have @bob02 ?
  6. Word on the street is that BOSCH condensers have gone down in quality and rumor has it that a lot of people are abandoning points as a result. I've come up with a conspiracy theory, that certain electronic ignition manufacturers have corrupted the condenser supply chain and are introducing inferior quality capacitors to frustrate our fellow (yet to be) club members, hoping to lure them over to the dark side. It appears to be working! I thought this was a fun read, where Steve Maas dissected some condensers to compare their guts. http://nonlintec.com/sprite/cap_failure/ I only replace my condenser if it fails. I have saved the old ones I have come across and would rather try an old German made used one, than take my chances on a new one. If you find a good one, they seem to last a very long time. (same's true for points/caps/rotors) I found an old capacitor tester years ago and then found a replacement Neon bulb for it on eBay, for $25. I went to a radio forum and a guy shared the Trouble Shooter's instruction file with me. Then I dropped a C-clamp on the bulb and have not bought another. They are kind of hard to find. Tom
  7. At least you did not say PerTronix . "The turning point in the effort to build a workable magneto came in 1906, when renowned inventor Charles Kettering became involved in the process. Working out of a former barn in Ohio, he developed the ignition structure that became the standard. The biggest problem to overcome was the unreliability of the points and spark plugs, as they tended to wear out prematurely. The Kettering model was able to solve these issues by supplying sparks at the precise intervals necessary with a high degree of accuracy and dependability. Once the magneto ignition system became reliable and efficient, cars began to move from the realm of curiosities into the mainstream transportation world." (taken from - https://nationalmaglab.org/education/magnet-academy/history-of-electricity-magnetism/museum/magneto ) natürlich! Thanks for sharing that, Mike. I recently put one of his batteries in my car The Wiki page is a fun read. This is from there. Beginning in 1907, his NCR colleague Edward A. Deeds convinced Kettering to develop improvements for the automobile.[11] Deeds and Kettering invited other NCR engineers, including Harold E. Talbott, to join them nights and weekends in their tinkering at Deeds's barn. They became known as the "Barn Gang," and Kettering was called Boss Ket. Their first goal was to find a replacement for the magneto.[12] In 1909, Kettering resigned from NCR to work full-time on automotive developments, and the group incorporated as Dayton Engineering Laboratories Company, or Delco. (tinkering!) Tom
  8. the moving parts It is sort of a thick topic. The main thing is to keep it clean and lubricated and shimmed to eliminate extra axial play. They are a maintenance item that is typically neglected. Drilling the pin out of the gear, to slide it off of the shaft is not very difficult. The pin is very soft. I replace the pin with a 5/32" x 3/4" roll pin, to make it easier to get in there in the future. Here is a(n obnoxiously long) thread, where I have taken some apart and taken a lot of photos. Tom
  9. I want to start a club, "The True Friends of Charles F. Kettering". Running points/condenser is a requirement for membership. We'll need T-shirts, of course. With this CFK quote on them -- "I notice the harder I work, the luckier I get." Tom
  10. Dan's cluster appears to have left a four gauge footprint. I copied one of those once, for a friend. Here's a photo he sent, after painting and installing it. and one installed in a racecar. (that one appears to have an angled-back front, unless that is camera distortion). These must be some of the AlpinA driving gloves that Marty mentioned. Tom
  11. Is this the same friend that thinks he might have dragging brakes and is losing fluid?
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