'76mintgrün'02

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About '76mintgrün'02

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    Master Tinker

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Kingston, WA.

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  1. '76mintgrün'02

    Fork head found

    Apparently it is called a forkhead. I'd suggest posting a WTB ad in the parts wanted section. 1502-2002tii 2002 Pedals-supporting bracket Select another car > Pedals > Pedals Sponsored links No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Pull rod 1 35211100556 $19.61 ENDED 02 Cup 1 35211101077 $10.79 ENDED 03 Hex nut M10LH 1 07119922115 ENDED 04 Pin 1 35211110925 $1.44 05 Forkhead 1 35211110924 $5.44 ENDED 06 Clamp 2 35411104248 $0.82 ENDED 07 Steering arm 1 35211101539 $53.51 08 Pipe 2 35211101052 $7.56 09 Washer 2 34331101080 ENDED 10 Set nut 25 M10 1 07509063128 ENDED 10 Self-locking hex nut M10 1 07129964672 $0.36 11 Stop light switch 1 61311368786 $38.77 12 Pin 1 34331101858 $1.42 13 Pipe 1 35211101049 $7.56 14 Hex bolt M10X115-10.9PHR 1 07119912715 ENDED ATE T 50 15 Supporting bracket MECHANISCH 1 03/1966 04/1972 35111101573 ENDED 15 Supporting bracket HYDRAULISCH 1 03/1966 07/1977 35111101550 $367.39 ENDED 17 Hex bolt with washer M8X20 8 35111102135 $0.76 19 Sound absorber 1 35114440140 $27.21 +core 20 Insulating cover 1 35111102142 $43.55
  2. '76mintgrün'02

    Resonator delete or other exhaust spice-up?

    I suspect a lot of people who want more exhaust sound have lined the entire pan with sound dampener. https://www.thoughtco.com/what-is-a-resonator-281971
  3. In the following link they discuss various fluids used to test injectors. https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=117108
  4. '76mintgrün'02

    Strut dent opinion

    you must mean the one in the bottom photo... the one in the middle looks a liddle werse. the dent in the top photo looks too deep to me. strike threee ! I'd be concerned about longevity and send it back.
  5. ... as for adding ST bars, I did that a year or so after swapping in H&R springs and HDs and the change was 100% positive. I'd say don't hesitate based on liking the way it is now.
  6. '76mintgrün'02

    Header ID

    It looks like the ID is maybe an inch and a half . I'm just guessing though. Joking too, a little.
  7. '76mintgrün'02

    Dreaded front subframe crack....

    Cool. I like those nuts. I suppose one could also cut the top inch and a quarter off of that piece and just not have it go up to the slot; since they do not tend to break at the top. There's more than one way to brace a bracket.
  8. '76mintgrün'02

    3d printing experts......

    Would you call them Trombones?
  9. '76mintgrün'02

    Dreaded front subframe crack....

    that looks like it cracked in the exact same place as the one I fixed. Although the crack was only in one web. I wish I had a spare subframe sitting here, so I could make a small run of the boxed style pieces. I'll ping Roadhog0 and see if he has one sitting around... then try to coax him into another visit How did you resolve the stud length issue, with the doubled up tab thickness?
  10. condensation inside the engine seems likely with this pattern of use. I'd suggest taking it out for a good long run prior to putting it away for the winter.
  11. What is that part with the little piece of tubing coming off of it, on the top side of the float bowl in your bottom picture? I have never seen one of those before. I did just find this list which indicates that Australia has their own version and am guessing it has something to do with that... Weber 32/36 models DGV manual choke DGEV automatic (electric) choke DGAV automatic (water heated) choke DFEV/DFAV mirror-image to DGV series Holley 180 Australian licensed version of Weber 32/36 Holley 5200 US licensed version of Weber 32/36 This indicates that the the top one is actually a return line and not another feed line. It may have a restriction built in for that purpose. As stated above, I am a believer in relieving the pressure after shut down, via a return line. In LHD cars, there is a steel return line that comes out under the battery tray and you could conceivably run a hose down to that/back to the tank. IDK about RHD cars though. (I think that crusty carb I was working on was a DFEV, which is the air cooled VW 32-36 that has the primary and secondary sides reversed, compared to the DGV).
  12. The two larger idle mix screws look similar, aside from the extra length added out on the grippy end. The taper looks a little pointier on the longer/original one. In your photo, the tip looks like it is in good shape, so I would just use it again, if that's true. I think there may be an aluminum crush washer under the accelerator pump jet. It can be seen in theNomad's photo (from the link I posted below). I dug up a photo of the bamboo skewer emulsion tube puller in action. I also reread the post I shared that in and I had used a piece of soft aluminum and a tiny little hammer to tap on the top of the E-tubes and break them free. I'd forgotten that part. hth Tom
  13. The kits often come with extra stuff, so they will work for a few different carbs. I just tend to use what matches the one I have and throw the other bits in the parts bin, along with the stuff I removed. I don't actually throw much away I took one Weber apart with emulsion tubes that were basically glued in with that white powdery oxidized metal. I think it is galvanic corrosion between the brass and pot metal parts and the pot metal sheds some zinc... or something. Anyway, I succeeded in pulling the tubes by using a larger sized bamboo skewer, which just fits inside the tube and a little side pressure made it grip the holes in the tube, so I could pull it up and out. I would not put anything metal down in there though, for fear of buggering up the edges of the little holes in the brass. I have pictures I can/could dig out, but I have to run now. Let me know if you need/want to see them. Tom
  14. Hi Richard, I plugged that hole with the tip of a bamboo skewer. I can pick it out if I ever want to. (c.d. is done playing with us, unfortunately). As for the second outlet/inlet, is it a screwed in fitting? If so, you could screw a plug in its place I suppose. If it is pressed in, the hole could be tapped for a plug, once it was pulled out. I think the threads are typically 10mm x 1.0 on the threaded ones. I have seen where the second one is sometimes used as a bypass outlet, with an intentional blockage that has a smaller hole in the middle, so as not to let too much fuel go back to the tank under operation, but it allows fuel pressure to drain off after the engine is shut off. There was originally a valve in the system that served that purpose, but it is often removed as if it was part of the emissions equipment. I hope some of that made sense. It is too late for typing here... Tom