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About 2002#3

  • Birthday 10/27/1947

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  1. Brett, Please post the complete part number of that alternator. OT bolt length, otherwise a good fit? How many amps? Thanks. Larry
  2. Fletcher, Welcome to 2002FAQ - the best '02-specific tool you can have. Sounds like you're a smart mechanic. However, just in case you don't have them, make damn sure you have a damn good and exceedingly high quality... fire extinguisher first aid kit with an eye washer eye protectors jack set of jack stands charged cell phone (in your pocket at all times) bold and prominently placed sign: "Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal Before Working on This Car!" person who knows you are in the garage Now, you're set to look for '02-specific tools and have years of '02 fun. Larry
  3. Thank you, Steve, so very much for my prize 2002FAQ (beer) glass which arrived today quickly and in good order. Fine, fine products of the highest quality, indeed...the glass, the website, and the webmaster. Larry
  4. Thanks, Mike. No front plates in a state (Ohio) which requires them -- yet another reason to stop someone at 2 am when he is driving the only car within 2 miles and driving exactly the speed limit. I wonder how I know this can happen... Larry
  5. I agree with NYNick: Try rebuilding your calipers yourself. Federal regulations should require everyone to do it at least once. Can be exceedingly rewarding. My first attempt at such a rebuild was educational and fruitful. Bonus: I learned new 4-letter words I never knew existed. You wanted tips... Use a small amount Tilton's grease (or equivalent) to reassemble the nice shiny polished pistons into the nice shiny polished cylinders. I found the use of that grease to insert pistons to be much more beneficial than the use of brake fluid for the same purpose. Marriage of reconditioned pistons and cylinders will not be consummated until you can push in and pull out lubricated pistons by hand, even if it takes a little effort, and you are sure of free and smooth movement. Have some 600- and 1500-grit paper on hand. Polish, polish, polish. Polish. Some posters have stated do not fill the back/inner side of the sealing/dust boots with grease. I did not do so. Do not split the calipers unless you find a compelling reason to do so. Include new pins, clips, and nipples in your order for rebuild kits. See grease and before/after fotos below. 6 of 8 pistons were rusted solidly in place. You can do it. Larry
  6. ...waiting for a brake booster rebuild to return so I can complete brake and axles rebuilds...so... For 5 years I have accumulated hundreds of service and repair articles (mostly 2002 FAQ posts) on 2002's and have put them in binders in a sorta, pseudo, kinda, quasi order/grouping that was less-than-easy to use (Photo 1). Today I organized them. 1. Listed the service/repair groupings according to the numbered tabs in the blue BMW Service Manual (Photo 2). 2. Placed each of my service group/tabs within the most apropos BMW service group/tab (Photo 2). 3. Made dividers and tabs for all of my service groups (Photo 3). 4. Assembled all in binders (Photos 4 & 5). 5. Large projects were in separate binders. My cars already perform better...40 mpg and 15 more hp. Larry
  7. All, Thanks for the many excellent comments, suggestions, and references. Looks like there are several recommended rebuilders from which to choose. All are reported by several FAQ'ers to be quite reputable. Here are the initial rebuilders I found. I am sure there are others. White Post Restorations (VA): $470; a MC must be sent with the old booster to assure rebuilt booster and MC work together and do not leak; extensive testing; lifetime warranty 2002AD (CA): ~$300; one-day turn-around Ireland Engineering (CA): $230; rebuilt units ready to go; require either old core or $100 core charge Power Brakes (CA): $170; three CA locations Please comment if you find these details are not accurate. Larry
  8. Is the Power Brake rehab company in San Jose and LA the one to which you (rcf) refer? That the company? I spoke with a "Luis" (?) in LA today. Quote was $150 + ship. Sounds like inexpensive insurance. Am I contacting the correct person and company? Any difference between the SJ and LA facilities? Larry
  9. Thanks, rcf. Your suggestion is a good one. I did not know boosters could be rebuilt. The brakes worked OK before; however, they were nothing to write home about. The car slowed down and stopped... almost every time. So, I have rebuilt or replaced all components of the entire brake system (except hard lines). The poor braking could have been due to any single or several of the many worn out or completely dead components. I think I will install the new MC and old booster and see what happens. If the brakes still balk at my commands, your suggestion will be put into action. I did not think the booster was all that difficult to remove, and the bitch clip...well, we'll see. Larry
  10. OOPS! Thanks, Tom. You're a good man. Here is the original text... 1970 2002 Emptied, cleaned, and painted the brake booster. New MC ready to be installed. Photos 1 and 2: Might that be an original or at least correct booster for a '70 '02? Photo 3: Might the yellow 90-degrees check valve (CV) in the upper left corner be an original or at least correct CV for a '70 '02? I'd like to replace it; however, I can find only straight CVs (which likely will be sufficient). Photo 4: Half-pint of lovely brake fluid siphoned from the booster. Regards and thanks. Larry
  11. New 2020 Federal Regulations require that lust-filled contraption to be installed in a 2002 Golf Lux. Seriously. Really. Honestly. Look it up.
  12. Nice find! Those "issues/problems" are soooooooo few and sooooooo minor compared to the overall state of the car and will be knocked out in no time at all. You might want to check your tower bracing...you sure it's sufficiently beefy? Welcome to the group. Larry
  13. New car cover. For interior/dust/dirt only. Fits quite well, I must say. California Car Cover 8781YS 1974 BMW 2002TII CUSTOM CVR
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