Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

538 Excellent

About 2002#3

  • Birthday 10/27/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array
  • Interests Array

Recent Profile Visitors

4,783 profile views
  1. Paul, When I re-examined the WS site, I noticed a "custom" option: send the wheel grip circumference and the overall wheel diameter, and, of course, your desired type and color of cover. That might be the better way to go. Larry
  2. Hmmm..., Paul. That WS site has matured into something quite different from what I remember. As I recall, (i) mine was ordered and installed in late 2015, (ii) WS did not offer options for different cars, i.e., not one for an "early 2002", and (iii) all I had to to do is select the type of cover (smooth, black, etc.) and provide either circumference or diameter of the SW. Even before stitching, the cover fit nice and tightly around the wheel. I was impressed. My cover does not beef-up the wheel a lot; however, it beefs-up sufficiently to make a significance tactile difference and to provide a much improved grip. Looks like, if you go with WS, your only option is to select their 2002 cover - as per your link above. The cover in the link looks exactly like mine. I don't think the number of spokes matters. You will have to skip stitching at each spoke anyway. I think you might just be OK to go with it. Regards, Larry
  3. Paul, Thank you. You are too kind. I purchased my leather SW cover from from Wheel Skins. $70. Numerous versions are available at WS. A fun project. Really. Waxed string and a fat needle are provided. If you run out of waxed string, and you will, you can find more at a shoe repair shop. Go on line and search for "SW stitching" to discover a plethora of videos, types of stitching, and methods to enhance your wheel. Larry
  4. Every square inch of that car is lovely! Larry
  5. tdskip, In case you're interested, here's how a '73 2002 steering wheel (yes, the bus type) with a leather cover presents in a '74 (a tii if it matters to anyone). It would look the same in a non-tii. I happen to like it because it (i) fits the aesthetics of and blends with the interior, (ii) adds a certain element of "power steering", and (iii) is the wheel from the '73 2002 I drove as virtually my only car for 34 years. So, in a sense, I'm still driving the '73. Yours and the other 3-spoke sport wheels shown and discussed above are exceedingly nice and certainly deserve your consideration. You'll make the right choice. I still have the original 1974 4-spoke, large center pad version; however, it now decorates my garage wall. Larry
  6. jlenham, Again, welcome. We wish you good luck, fun, and safety with your new project. You will like those tail lights. Promise. As I drove a '73 roundie daily for 34 years as virtually my only car, I thought, "Rectangular tail lights? Not for me." Now, I am happy to have an '02 of each type, and to have (imaginary) Emeritus status in the Roundie Group and Progressive status in the (imaginary) Rectangularie Group. Nick et al. Above, Maybe some day...a '74 tii Group for the few of us...naaahhh...not worth the trouble. Let us joyfully wallow in the depths of the luxurious wonderment of all the cars supported by 2002FAQ and appreciate the fact that we did not...settle.* Larry * Full Disclosure: My loins still lust for an older 911, a CS of any displacement, a Sunbeam Tiger, a '74 Alfa Romeo GTV 2000, a '50's Ford pickup, a '66 Plymouth Satellite, or replacements for my long-lost '73 Capri or '64 Karmann Ghia. Heck, I'd love to have any car or truck with multiple analog gauges and/or with a real metal dashboard.
  7. Yes, welcome to the '74 tii group. Start recording you questions. 2002FAQ'ers have all the answers - good, bad, and ugly. Larry
  8. Rims in fotos 2 & 3 appear quite silvery likely b/c I used a flash. In daylight/person (foto 4) they are a rather dull silver; however, yes, still silver. Larry
  9. I think I got pretty close to the original (photo 1) with "Porsche Silver" offered by my powder coater. The color, texture, and sheen seem to agree with Steve's aforementioned comments. Other photos show the result. Good luck. Larry
  10. Intercity. Door-to-door. Enclosed. Deal directly with them, i.e., not a broker. Good reviews. Superb communication directly with the single driver. Excellent care of your car. Driver might pick a close-by roomy WalMart lot as a good place to meet you if your street will not work. This year: a 2002 from San Fran to Cincinnati, $1,900. Two caveats: (1) figure +/- 50% higher rates than brokers and (2) count on at least 2 hours of superb "Tales of Transporting Cars" from the driver [be sure not to miss this part].
  11. Clean, scrape, or whatever to remove as much as possible easy-to-remove surface rust then treat with Rust-Mort by the directions. Yes, paint over the thoroughly dry end product. Any good quality automotive finish-matching paint should work for your purposes. Ask a body/paint guy near you (PPG? Dupont?) or whatever FAQ'ers recommend. You can always trust 2002FAQ'ers...right? In case you need to use Rust-Mort to treat areas which are less delicate and likely to be abused (frames, steering rods, axles, brakes, diffs, etc.)... Attached are photos of suspension and steering parts before treatment with Rust-Mort and after painting with SEM Rust-Shield (a black, glossy, heavy duty "paint" and rust preventer; needs a hardener). A really good product for this purpose. So far, it has lasted impressively. However, I DO NOT recommend using Rust-Shield for the visible areas with which you seem concerned: engine bays, body panels, and other nicely visible sites. NOTE: Rust-Mort has no effect on clean bare metal.
  12. Most FAQ'ers use POR-15 products and are very satisfied. I have always used Rust-Mort by SEM for all surface rust issues and am very pleased with the product. Apply, incubate/soak/brush, rinse. Repeat. Dry. Paint. Very efficient product; a little goes a long way. Keep it out of your eyes and don't spill it on concrete (turns concrete white).
  13. I used the OEM brackets shown by fjordtii in the front and OEM brackets in the rear. After the fittings, drillings, tweakings, and conversions were completed, the bumpers were removed, repaired, and rechromed while the car received total body work during which the 5 large US bumper holes were enclosed. Do not weld these brackets into place on either end. Use bolts, washers, and nuts. Think "adjustment". I mounted the front brackets through the caverns before filling them. Large holes = lots of room. However, I had to cut slots into the the nose panel at the bottom of each front cavern to accommodate the need to mount the front brackets lower than the original US location, i.e., lower than the large holes allowed. See Mike's comment re: this above. Some frame rails have circles or areas indicating where to drill (hard to find). Don't count on finding them. Total of 4 inner rail and 4 outer rail holes. Drilling is quite difficult in these locations. Try attaching the brackets to the bumpers first, then putting the bumper in place where you want it, and then looking for the holes in the brackets to find where to drill in the frame rails. You MUST be accurate in locating where to drill, in performing the drilling, drilling through BOTH sides of each rail, etc. On each rail, a very small difference in hole placement can and likely will make the bumper point down or up - not desirable = when they should be level. I found the drilling to be very difficult. Very. Very. You MUST constantly be measuring and looking at the angle of the bumper and making SURE it is level with whatever you want it to be level (usually the knee trim). Small errors here can result in obvious misalignments! I'm done. Good luck. Larry
  14. 1. Attend MidAmerica Fest 2020 2. 1970 (ti tribute) Project a. finish installing and tuning rebuilt dual Solexes (photo) b. continue the project by examining the drive train and suspension 4. 1974 tii: install a 245 5-speed and a 123 ignition 5. Drive the pee pee out of both of them Larry
  15. The 2002 badge and its placement were the first things I saw. Hmmm... At first sight, nothing about this car's presentation appears to be original...and then...that badge and it's exceedingly unusual/unoriginal placement. Cool. I like that old touch on this car. Eyes of '02 owners are likely to go straight to it, and, of course, form an opinion. Price? Between $5,000 and $50,000. I know that answer is not very informative. I suggest your following irdave's aforementioned advice.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.