2002#3

Buckeye, Hal, Toby, and Tom, Thanks for the comments and excellent advice. I rebuilt a pair of calipers 5 years ago; I probably remember how. I particularly appreciate the comments re: splitting the calipers, advice re: removing pistons with compressed air/grease, and the bit about BF mist (would not have thought about that). Will be careful. I am sure a good dose of gummipfleger will bring those dust seals back to life. If I find the calipers and their components are FUBAR, I'll probably order a pair of apparently nice rebuilt ones from WN. Regards, Larry

1970 (ti wannabe) Project While rehabbing the rear brakes and flushing the system, I thought I'd check the condition of the calipers, pads, and rotors. As Gomer Pyle so often stated, "Surprise, surprise!" Check the photos of the calipers and pistons. See if you can spot the surprise.* #1: right caliper and pistons #2, #3, and #4: left caliper and pistons No wonder the braking ability of the car was less than stellar. Looks like rebuilding both calipers is in order. *Hint: It is not #1.

I am installing rear brake cylinders, shoes, drums, rear flex lines, and handbrake cables. Q: Is there any need to replace top coil/tension spring (cheap [~$3 ea.]), bottom straight/tension spring (pricey [~$18 ea.), and top spacer bar/thrust rod (really pricey [~$35 ea.])? Thanks.

Anyone replace this oil line prophylactically? After working hard for 46+ years, these lines might get tired; however, maybe they don't.

Did a City Electrical Inspector have to approve the junction box? 120V?

An exceedingly sweet ride and even sweeter dash. Nice work.

1970 2002(ti wannabe) Project New rear flex brake lines (old ones were constipated), new brake reservoir, new brake light switch, and a good enema for all the lines. Firm pedal now. Celebrated with Simpler Times Pilsner. This beer is a sad excuse for beer of any style. Drinking it is like making love in a canoe: it's [email protected]#%ing next to water.

Thanks, all, for this informative thread.

Bluehills2002 comments are spot-on and remind me of my asking firefighters at two different Cincinnati Fire Department stations (1) should I have a fire extinguisher [FE] in my old cars and (2) if so, what kind of FE? Their answers and recommendations were not what I expected and seem to agree with the aforementioned FEMA article. 1. Carry a fire extinguisher (any kind) for only one purpose: (a quote) "...to throw at anyone (other than a fire fighter) who tries to get close to the car." 2. Stand way back, call 911, and let the car burn. Their experience says virtually all car fires of any extent are total loses. 3. Use of a FE by an amateur on an engine fire is extremely dangerous. Raising a hood allows the fire more access to oxygen. Fires, fluids, and engine parts unexpectedly pop, explode, spray, and spread. 4. If you insist on carrying a FE, use it ONLY if a passenger's life is in danger. Under my driver's seat, I have a FE I installed before I met with the fire department. It contains an approved non-damaging halon substitute. However, I am almost certain I'd let the car burn. If fire suppression systems are good for race cars, they're THE way to go for road cars. I wish I had one.

Vicleo, You, huh? THANKS so much for the tips, both glossy white and the hot rod route to '02 happiness.

An Aside: I, too, have found gloss white paint to be so superior to both mylar and shiny silver/chrome paint as reflectors inside tail light housings that I have not needed to go the new-bulb route. Thank you to whomever suggested it initially. Now, back to our topic...bulbs.

I drove a '73 as my only car for 34 years. Now I have a '70 and a '74tii. I do not think the '73 or any particular year is the best. I think all years are tied for Best. Why do we keep asking this question? Larry