2002#3

I need some heater control Bowden cable clamps (see photo below). Larry Gray Cincinnati, Ohio

Got it! Those are the same components/pieces I had to alter substantially to marry the carbs to the new (Boyles) linkage. Looks like we made very similar adaptations (photo). Thanks for the story - good one. Indeed, these carbs are vacuums which draw you in, torture you, and make you want more. I wanted to learn about carbs and am getting my fill, thank you. I might have eliminated the spitting and sputtering today. Will work tomorrow to see if it was a fluke. Will report. Stay tuned. HINT: Toby might have been spot-on... Larry

Slavs, You refer frequently to "linkage pickup". Not familiar with that description. To what part(s) are you referring? Larry

Slavs, "So, what you seem to have...linkage from a 1600ti or2002ti." Here's the story with the linkage. It's a combo/mixture of '60's and '21. When I purchased the car 2 years ago, the pedal-to-carbs linkage was a homemade job (PHOTOS 1 and 2). Note the bent threaded rod, the welding job, the acorn nut, a overall fabrication. I suppose someone did it to make these '60's Solexes fit and work with a '75 block and an '83 head. I used a new pedal-to-carbs linkage designed to fit Webers (a great product made by FAQ'er Hal Boyles). To connect the Boyles linkage to the carbs, I had to make major league changes (cutting bending, bolting, fabrication) to the throttle lever/arm of the front carb (PHOTOS 3, 4, and 5). Larry

Thanks, Ed and Slavs. Thanks for sharing your experiences and thoughts I assumed my solexes were from a 2000CS b/c the linkage of the carbs looked like that of a 2000CS. Is the linkage on an 1800ti the same? Indeed, Ed, just like my wife, knows my problems and issues well - at least the Solex ones. Next step at this point is wait for the real gaskets and jets of several sizes (while I was at it...) to arrive form Italy from Rocky/alfa1750 and then try some jets and monitor performance and AFR. Ed, engine is always nice and warm when working on the carbs. Larry

Toby, Yep. Agree. What I thought. Got the cables out. Was a pain. Larry

Hans, Spits w/ or w/o load, moving or not moving. I have checked for leaks so many times that I'm done. Brake cleaner, starter fluid, propane, etc. No detectable leaks. Thanks for putting up with me! larry

"What news?" (Hans) Thanks for asking. Still adjusting... Changed max advance to ~34 or so and adjusted mixture screws ad nauseam to get a really steady and smooth idle (it likes 1,000 rpm the best.). AFR hangs at 12.7-13 or so most of the time. Accel pump causes a quick drop to 10 - then back up - as it should. Still pulls dramatically strong and decels fine; however, still spits at ~2,300 w/ and w/out load. Numerous sprays used...no leaks detected anywhere. Air filters helped. Waiting for real gaskets and to measure consistent thickness of spacers. Idle jets on the way, too, if needed. Larry

Mike, I never had any intention of cutting a hole in the box or trying to replace the cables w/o removing the box. The box is out and so are the cables (photo). Heater boxes always have to come out. Larry

Excellent! Thanks, guys. This will be the 5th heater box I have removed and rebuilt. However, the levers on this one have been the most difficult to remove. I might simply leave them in place. Not a big deal. Pretty lucky to have all Bowden cables intact and to have solid O ends to (re)attach to the levers. See photo of current rabbit hole. The box looked scary bad; might not have ever been out of the car; certainly has never been opened (original rivets). However, 12V perked the motor into solid commendable action. Wish me luck on the valve. Q: Anyone have any of those handy-dandy clips? Dis car ain't got none. Larry

SydneyTii, I believe you refer to later dashes, like my '74tii. Your suggestion is exactly how it works for that car. No problem. On this early '02 (1970) I believe I have either to remove the lower dash or to somehow finagle going through the back - a big PITA, as stated by rms. Thanks, guys.

1970 2002 I need to remove the two the Bowden cable lever devices behind the two silver cover plates [PHOTO 1] to (1) lube and refurbish them and (2) add the cable clamping arm/pieces [PHOTO 2] which anchor the cables onto the lever device. My observations and experience and FAQ comments indicate I need to remove at least the lower part of the dash to access the lever devices. Q 1: Any pearls re: the aforementioned removal? Q 2: Anyone have a couple of those little arm/pieces with a hole and 3 bends and desires to make some cash? Thanks, Larry NOTE: Source of PHOTO 2 - NYNick (FAQ, 10/25/17). I hope using your photo is OK.

Nice. Need to be in their b'hood. ...wonder how one could obtain the cool T shirt?

'70 ti-Wannabe Project Medical Issue Patient Medical Record Number: 1671277 Complaint: sluggish interior and environmental depression Diagnosis: automotive endoscopy indicated interior was clogged Findings: Constipation was due to old crappy carpet. 50-year-old floor pan is solid, rust-free, and tightly covered in the original, well-preserved tar paper. Procedure: interior enema Recommended Treatment/Rx: Esty carpet (single dose) Post-Procedure Expectation/Prognosis: a healthy interior Follow-Up: Heater box/appendix appears to be really, really (I mean, really) accessible at this time. Recommend a near-future consult to examine and evaluate same. Larry

Hans, ...and omit the spacer and one gasket? That should reduce the leakage options from 16 to 4. Will try. Do other dual carb setups have/need spacers? Interesting: I obtained this car for one reason - to get experience with carbs. I'm gettin' it! Thanks, Larry