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About cdbeemin

  • Birthday 12/25/1958

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  1. Do you still have the scheel? I’m local and can swing by. Tomorrow
  2. Tired of seeing all the tweaking and tuning and driving and enjoying of everyone else’s 2002’s, so, with the sun out I finally got busy today. Hit the hood, trunk lid, spoiler, and sunroof with the Glasurit primer, which will be my final coat before adding color. I hope to get the rest of the car in the booth tomorrow, at least spraying the engine bay, trunk, door jambs, and nose. Depending on how long that takes maybe I can shoot the whole car...
  3. I have something better. I have a brand new drivers side! I had bought a bunch of sheet metal from W&N but didn’t do the build. I was digging around in my parts and found it. I’ll let you know how much when I get home tonight. Where do I need to ship to?
  4. Glad you’re all set. I’ll cut em off and have them for the future..
  5. Are these what you’re looking for?
  6. I’m going to chop up my parts car soon and I’ll sell you those if you are still in need. Will post a pic tomorrow.
  7. cdbeemin

    New leather interior!

    Wow. That’s quality work and a gorgeous color.
  8. Hi All. Jumping in late here as I was just about to do this but now have questions based on the info in this thread. The PO of the car I am restoring bought wheel bearings and seals before he sold it to me. I pulled out the bearings (from Beck Arnley) and found I have three of one type and one of another - all the same Beck Arnley part number though. One says C4 engraved on the edge, the other three, which are a different brand, do not have anything etched. Here is a pic of the two types. First of all, is the C4 designation an issue? How do I confirm the bearings are all the same? I checked the outer diameter and they are all the same, but the three bearings which are the same have 8 balls and the one different one has 9. am I overthinking this?
  9. Not that simple, as the head of the bolt will need to be ground down to clear the bolt that holds the valve in place. In addition, the original bolt pivots in the arm connected to the valve, but wrapping and locking the Bowden cable won't allow that. regardless, my goal was to maintain originality and was just asking if anyone knew of a source for the stock bolt. I got a low profile m5 bolt and drilled the hole. It seems to work. I also cut a couple of thin sheet metal braces for the valve mounting point that strengthened that up nicely.
  10. This is them. I have two sets, and the one on the car going to the crusher is available. They include the center caps like the one below on the right (which is from my driver and not one of the wheels - I was just too lazy to go and get them caps from the attic...) Tires are crap. Let me know what you think. Chris
  11. Hi all, Anyone know where I can source this bit? It's the bolt and nut that clamps onto the cable that opens and closes the coolant valve into the heater core. No matter how I tried to bust the rust free first, this little bugger was frozen and finally snapped. Your guidance is greatly appreciated!!
  12. I've got a set of 14" BBS wheels to trade and I'm in San Jose. I'm looking to do the bumper change to my '74 and these look perfect.
  13. Great feedback. The price tag to sell was my biggest question and I think you've all pretty much helped me settle that one. The Tijuana angle is interesting. The quotes I've had here for metal work and paint have all been in the range of $22-$25K. If I could get it done for even 1/2 of that then it could be worth it. OK, I've got research to do. Thanks everyone! Chris
  14. Hi All, I need some advice... Last year I bought a 1974tii from a seller in Seattle. The car had sat out in the rain for a few years and had rust issues. The ones I could see clearly were the rot in both front floors and the rockers. Surprisingly, the engine compartment and the trunk (outside of a small hole in the spare well) looked pretty clean. So, I bought the car and had it shipped home. Fast forward a year later and I've completely stripped the car of parts and have started stripping the rust out. I've bought all new panels from Walloth and Nesch to replace the worst areas. Doors look like they were new recently. Fenders are rust free, hood and trunk lid have rust along the seams. Hood has small bubbles. shock and strut towers are good, frame rails have rust, no rot yet. As far as the new panels go, I have inner and outer rockers for the drivers side and both floors, outer rocker for passenger side and front floor. I have a-pillar repair pieces for both sides, front "wings" for both sides, the bottom 10 inches or so of the entire area behind the rear wheel arches, gas pedal mount, jacking points, and more. I've got a couple of quotes for the metal work and paint now and it has stopped me in my tracks. I don't have the budget to go down the restoration path all the way, so I bought another 2002! No rot. My options are twofold - first, package up the entire tii - I've been good about cataloging all of the parts that I've taken off (I've rebuilt the pedal cluster, rear end, brake system - 528i calipers/320i vented rotors, new rear brakes, and more). I'd like to sell the entire car if for no other reason than it is a complete tii and it deserves to be saved. My other option is less altruistic - take all of the tii parts for my new ride and build a "tii". I'd cut off all of the tii bits and weld them to the other car to make it a complete tii. Then I'd cut up what is left and sell all of the extra parts... I do have a moral dilemma with this path. So my question - are there people interested in buying a project midstream like this? I will want to get out of it what I've spent (not expecting to get $$ for all of the hours of work) which is around $9K. Thus my ask for guidance. I have some pics below and many, many more of all of the issues. What I need to do is layout all of the parts as well. Car has been stored indoors during the winter here in San Jose (and it has been a doozy), but is now moving outside to make room for the "new" 2002. Please let me know your thoughts. Chris

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