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  1. Hello all and thanks for the wealth of tips and information. After continuing on with a hodgepodge of every tool and improvised device, I still have not finished this job yet. I now have and have 2 wedgie splitters on the way! I will keep you posted on how they work out for me. Also, the descriptive term used in previous posts reminded me that I did this job in the past. It was a pain then and I must have deleted that memory! To think that this job started out with a desire to make the car idle more smoothly by changing out the motor mounts. I have now changed the DS motor mount, steering coupler, updated the starter to the e28 M5 type, installed a 123tune distributor, changed out the brake booster and am working on the master cylinder. I still have the PS motor mount, transmission mounts and brake job to follow. Oh and I will probably change out the trans and diff fluids again, you know, "while I am in there". Speaking of the master cylinder - As you will likley predict, I was successful in removing 4 out of the 5 line fittings on the old unit. Despite using the proper flair wrench, getting a good bite on it, and taking my time - the rear brake line fitting at the master cylinder has stripped. I got the master cylinder out by holding the residual pressure valve with a wrench and spinning the master cylinder around and out. I've not repaired hard brake line fittings before, but that is next. And in a bit of misadventure, I pulled the residual pressure valve off of my new master cylinder. I was unaware that there was a spring and ball bearing in there. So now I will be determining how it goes back together and determining if I lost any parts. Anyone have a picture of that? This is probably the longest post I have ever written thanks to a temporarily empty house on a quiet Sunday morning with plenty of coffee. Back at it, wrko
  2. Hello all -- In replacing my brake booster, I am stymied when it comes to getting the pin and clasp that attach it to the pivot point near the brake switch (ie - the other end from the master cylinder). I've got meat hooks of hands and can't get in that tight space! I've tried a number of my tricks, but so far ... nothing. So starting over, and referencing the photos below -- does it go in per the top or bottom photo orientation? I can get in the in the orientation shown in the bottom photo, but haven't yet the other way. Even when it is in the bottom photo orientation, I cannot get that clip back on! Any tips? I've got all my forceps, needle nose pliers, magnets and even some bent paper clips all brought to bear on this -- the only thing wearing thin is my resolve.
  3. Thanks all -- I have a better understanding through the reminders in the previous posts. I've been FI for a while now and find it amazing what I have forgotten about carbs. That said -- I have the 38DGAS with electric choke nearly where I think it should be. There is one more question - as indicated above, with a cold engine, I depress the accelerator pedal 2x and the choke plates close. Upon first staring the car, the RPMs are at 2500-3000. If I blip the accelerator they come down to what I set the fast idle to - approx 1200-1400 rpm. After 3-4 minutes, the choke plates open and the idle is lowered to approximately where I set it to 700 rpm. Why does it start at 2500-3000 rpm? Could this be a binding linkage somewhere?
  4. Hello all -- there is a metal tab behind the lights for the tach. I am assuming these are a rudimentary reflector, but thought I would ask the forum. If they are a reflector - any reason to not make them more effective by adding a more reflective surface?
  5. Hello all -- I have a tii airbox that I have no use for. It has been in my parts stash for years and is ready for a restoration. It is not perfect. Please PM me with interest/questions.
  6. thanks all -- what about it closing after cooling over night? I'd guess that is the one thing it needs to do? WRKO
  7. hello all -- I have a weber 38 dgas electric choke question. I am not sure if I have a bad choke coil or if operator error in the adjustment is the case. The choke connection is getting 12volts. A visual inspection of the coil - no breaks or cracks. I have adjusted the coil/spring to have the plates just lightly closed when the car is cold. There is no binding in the plates that I can determine. The plates do not move to open unless I blip the throttle. This is the case even if I let the car come up to temperature without touching the throttle. When the car cools over night, the plates remain open. I did just do a light re-build of the carb and solved my hard warm start issue. I wrote down all the carb specs, but don't have them handy right now. They were all fairly standard to what others have reported using successfully. A new choke is pretty cheap and easy to install, but I am new to the finer points of adjusting them. I hesitate to buy a new choke because I can think of anything that would stop it for wearing out inherently. Any clues?
  8. Looking to get rid of the following -- I don't have a set price in mind, so feel free to let me know what you have to offer. All are used and untested, none are perfect. Ansa exhaust- I had to cut it to remove, but did so in a way that a short mending pipe could be used to make it fine for use. Don't want to ship this, it's probably not worth the time and effort. 2 2002 stock radiators. 1 is certainly not good, 1 is untested. I am not sure if these have any value as cores, or if they are just scrap. Either way, I thought I'd put them up here before I melt them for metal. 1 320 radiator -- untested, plastic
  9. I am planning on painting the pointers orange. That is a bit of an experiment, though since Alpina did this on the e28, which I assume had amber illumination - I think it will be nice.
  10. Hello all -- I will get some photos together once I go through all I intend to address. I am working on the ensuring the rheostat is to spec next, then I will likely repaint the interior of the housing white (and likely will attempt the same on the bezel ring interiors). I am also searching for amber bulbs for my temperature controls. Some back story -- I started on this cluster restoration to address my erratic gauges. I cleaned the contacts, checked the grounds, will use Dexoit gold as a protective coating once I am sure of all functions. In the process, I noticed the "bobbin" on the copper coil for my fuel gauge is broken. The coil wire isn't broken and the gauge functions, but given the wire is as thin as a hair, I imagine it won't last long. I need to think through a solution for this. I grounded the cluster with no change to the erratic gauges. Then I noticed the PO had ground the battery to the inner engine compartment near the brake fluid reservoir. I cleaned that connection up (it was definitely compromised) and my erratic gauges are now solid. Thanks to the first tool in my 2002 toolbox, bmw2002faq.com, for the tip to check this ground specifically for this issue. Preferences in lighting is part science, part subjective. For me, it's amber all the way when the light is in my eyes. IIRC my e30, 3 e28s and definitely my e46 have/had amber instrument lighting.
  11. I received and installed Grainger item number 2flv6 Lumapro amber miniature INC bulbs, T3-1/4 3.78W PK10 in my instrument cluster as I wanted more of an amber glow. So far, I have to say, I am pretty pleased! Has anyone else tried these? For $15.00 at 10 pieces, I feel like this got me the illumination I was seeking (of course that is after I cleaned the glass). I will be checking the lighting rheostat as soon as I can get to it. https://www.grainger.com/product/2FLV6?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5OrK7-nL6wIVqwiICR1yog9pEAQYBSABEgIgDfD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI5OrK7-nL6wIVqwiICR1yog9pEAQYBSABEgIgDfD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275504!!!g!472075813898!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:R2D69O:20500731
  12. It does look pretty decent with the exceptions noted above. I wonder why it hasn't sold.
  13. i'd be interested in the gauge cluster -- or really the surround and fuel gauge - if you are willing to pull it apart to that degree.
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