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dlhoovler

Kugelfischer
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About dlhoovler

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  1. I'll be contrarian and say that I kinda like bottlecaps, especially on a squaretail car. They're not THAT different from the soup-plate late factory '02 alloys... I suspect the hate bottlecaps get is about half due to their being the base wheel on most US E30s, so they inspire the same level of love as the M10 318i and the Eta. I genuinely loved my Eta-engined 325, but then my bottlecaps were still relegated to winter wheels, and I had basketweaves for summer! And since they've been undesirable by the E30 crowd, bottlecaps are essentially worthless in the market, so they carry that "cheap" stigma. Plus we're now in a new part of the cycle of the 2002. At one point, it's desirable to "update" a car to look like the newer models and keep it from being seen as "old-fashioned." That was 2002s in the late 1970s through the 1990s, when E21 and then E30 wheels were seen as upgrades. Then in the 2000s E30 wheels were especially popular as a cost-effective way to chase tire availability as decent 13" tires went away. But then even 14" performance tires became hard to find. Their demise coincided with 2002s reaching the tipping point in their ages when original or "period-correct" starts to become more desirable, as it does with most cars of a certain age. So even with the reintroduction of some 13" performance tires like the CN36, you don't see many '02s with E21 turbines or basketweaves anymore, despite their extra width being a major draw over stock 2002 wheels in the 1980s and '90s. Those looking for maximum performance are going with 15" wheels, and those who look at 13" wheels want something from when '02s were new, if not factory wheels. TL;DR - Cheap stigma, changing tire tech and collector-car aesthetics combined to kill the desirability of bottle caps. -Dave who's done pontificating for today
  2. I think the first modification my dad made to our car after buying it new was a pair of airplane-style lap belts instead of the "user-hostile" Klippans. Those were in the car for more than 30 years. The second mod was probably the set of 13x5 Opel Kadett steel wheels and 185/70 tires, but only after the factory XASes wore out. I think those were the only changes he made to the car in his combined 18 years or so of ownership. I'm beginning to appreciate his wisdom in that... -Dave
  3. Is there an early/late difference here? I just R&R'd my diff a few weeks ago, and the output flanges were not threaded; those bolts slipped through few axle and diff flanges and were secured with the nuts. I have an early '71 (mfg. 11/70), and as far as I know neither the diff nor axles have been changed. -Dave
  4. I wonder if this wouldn't be the most authentic option, in spirit if not hue: Go to three different hardware stores. From their cheapest spray paint, buy one can of flat black and one can of satin black at each store. At two stores, buy a can of olive drab. At the third, get a can of industrial gray. Make sure that no two cans are identical in brand and sheen. Then head home and paint one subframe with one can of olive drab, and the other with the other. Use the front subframe color for the rear trailing arms. Grab a can of black at random for the each of the control arms, struts, gas tank, brake booster, etc. Hit the pedal box with the gray. When painting, apply some paint from six inches away, and others from about two feet. Aim for runs, sags, and spotty coverage. Bonus points if you come home from a long day of work and go directly into the garage to paint, stopping halfway through at least one part to take a break for supper. That oughta be pretty factory-fresh!👍😉 -Dave Who would love a beautiful, over-restored front and rear suspension.
  5. Not to poo-poo the effort others have gone to in replicating the factory colors, but it looks to me that Rustoleum Deep Forest Green from their camoflage line is a close match to the factory dark olive green that I've exposed under layers of Ziebart undercoating on my 11/1970 subframes. Haven't actually bought a can to test it, though, since my rear subframe project went from "pretty resto" to "functional but ugly" for time reasons. And as others have said, my suspicion is that the subframe supplier shifted the exact color frequently depending on what industrial paint was cheapest. Hmmm... Is there a "Panzer Grün"? 😉 -Dave
  6. Indeed! I pray it'll be a swift and full recovery and do what it's supposed to do. -Dave
  7. Room reserved! Really looking forward to the event after a couple of years' hiatus. -Dave
  8. Just hung mine up in my office today--beautiful cars and beautiful photos and illustrations! Thank you for your effort in putting this together. I also just realized it's set up with the week starting on Monday--my vote for the future would be for a Sunday-to-Saturday week as in previous years. It's always an extra mental step for me to adjust from long-established mental patterns when glancing at the wall. But again, beautiful calendar! -Dave
  9. 1) Sort out some lingering fuel delivery issues. 2) Center console/gauge pod redo. 3) Go to Mid-America! 4) Drive it, drive it, drive it. 5) Celebrate its 50th birthday on Nov. 30. Plenty of other stuff I could do, but those are the priorities. -Dave
  10. I had no idea there was ever supposed to be a seal there! I'll have to look more closely on the underside of my 1-barrel lid, but it's a tight fit without it. And my filter housing also has the rubber bumper for the fuel pump, although the pump I have on there now sticks up too far and causes the air cleaner to hit the underside of the hood... Since my housing is stamped "PUROLATOR," I generally used that brand while they were available from my local parts stores. But now that they and M10 oil filters are no longer regular stock, I've switched to adding an extra Mann or Mahle filter of one sort or other to my online orders when helpful to get free shipping. -Dave
  11. Uai and John, I neglected to reply with a thanks for the answer to my question. So... Thanks! That factory bracket looks like it shouldn't be too hard to replicate with some heavy sheet metal ...and if one installed the pump on the opposite side of the bracket, it would be even more protected in the cavity between the wheel well and the rear quarter panel - the more exposed locations on the trunk side of the wheel arch always make me nervous about shifting cargo snagging a fuel line. -Dave Posted from my phone.
  12. Uai, did you extend your headlight and wiper switches? Seems like that'd be especially helpful on a race car, since it's a long reach around the wheel (especially a large-diameter wheel) to those switches. Admittedly not the most beautiful thing, but when form follows function... -Dave Posted from my phone.
  13. Uai, do you know where the factory retrofit was intended to be mounted? In the trunk, under the car where the tii pump mounts, or elsewhere? I don't think I've ever seen one installed, and the parts diagram doesn't seem to indicate the location. Or, like radio antennas, was it largely up to the dealer? -David Posted from my phone.


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