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About dlhoovler

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  1. I use this one, inherited from my dad. He said it was gen-yew-wine BMW, bought from the dealer when he found his strap-type wrench for Small-Blocks wouldn't fit the M10 filter. The angle does work very nicely for getting to the filter on the '02. -Dave Posted from my phone.
  2. Not all of us... [emoji57] Posted from my phone.
  3. Ed, my dad had one of those John Deeres that he kept at his sister's farm for a few years, just to drive around occasionally (#bachelorlife). He said that sometimes, he'd go over there, spend half an hour spinning the flywheel trying to start it, then just give up and go home. Cheaper than the gym, I suppose. -Dave Posted from my phone.
  4. Hey, it shows the rockers are pretty solid, at least. Though I don't recommend pressure-washing oneself before a date, generally speaking. Posted from my phone.
  5. But is it contagious?! Posted from my phone.
  6. That sure is a fancy gas station, Harry! Full-service, I bet... [emoji6] Posted from my phone.
  7. For a point of reference, Mike, my 11/30/70 build has the plastic vapor recovery tank in the trunk. Excited to see you work your magic on this one, Paul! -Dave Posted from my phone.
  8. By the way, those metal tabs have rubber covers that are supposed to fit over them to cushion the hinge arms and avoid rattles. BMW calls them "distance rubbers," and according to RealOEM, they list at $6.78 each: 52-11-1-801-206. -Dave Posted from my phone.
  9. As the owner of one of those "nifty" wheels, original to my 1970-calendar-year car, thanks, Paul! -Dave Posted from my phone.
  10. It's aftermarket, not factory. I didn't snap one of mine, but it's the same valve and location as Tom (76Mintgrun) installed in this thread: Technically, the mechanical fuel pump should function as a check valve, but I do notice faster starting/less cranking with the aftermarket valve in place. I know that, Jim; I just wasn't complete enough in my description. The problem seemed to be that the bowl wasn't refilling on a warm start--i.e., the pump wasn't pumping enough to replenish what was being pulled from the bowl. So it would start and run fine for a minute or two, then stall once the bowl drained. It would sometimes seem to get a tiny bit of gas flowing, but just enough to maintain a low idle. Attempts to accelerate resulted in a stall. Thus my attempts to combat the possibility of either air in the line before the pump or debris fouling the pump (though the pump screen was clear). Admittedly, adding a filter before the pump addresses the latter while having a potentially negative effect on the former, but I feel better with the filter there. Thanks for keeping me honest! -Dave
  11. Reinstalled a fuel check valve and pre- (mechanical) pump fuel filter, trying to figure out a dry float chamber on my carb on a warm (not hot or cold) restart. Not sure if it was vapor lock or fuel system crud, but I took a shotgun approach. Now for the proof of the proverbial pudding... -Dave Posted from my phone.
  12. Geoff, No, I've just lived with the error. I've since realized, however, that most silver-dollar 2002 speedos have what appears to be a "W" number for a 3.45 diff, even though they have 3.64 units. The reason is likely that the early cars had as standard 6.00-13 bias-ply tires, which are taller than 165-13 radials (even though Hoffman ordered almost all US-market 2002s with the radials). So that's probably part of the explanation for the optimistic early speedometer heads. -Dave Posted from my phone.
  13. I believe all manual US-spec E21s from 1977-79 had a 4-speed, mated to a 2L engine and 3.64 rear. 1980-1983 (both regular and "is") got the 5-speed to go with the 1.8L and 3.90 diff. 1983s (I think) had the 2-piece version of the 5-speed. The only drivetrain difference for the 320is was the LSD. -Dave Posted from my phone.
  14. Great photo, roman! Posted from my phone.

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