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 So I took a few pictures of the engine bay and I am still in a learning phase with this car.
 
I've been able to figure out that it has a upgraded starter from a BMW 320 (cranks much better then my 71) and also seems to have a newer alternator.  The part numbers on the sticker have wore off so I'm not really sure what type of alternator it is I know it is a Bosch brand though.
 
The carburetor is a solex and my idle is currently pretty high...I have to figure out how to reduce that.
 
all in good time.
 
 

With how twisted and bent the nose was and how much work it took, I'm super happy with the results. Final panel fitting today before epoxy priming. Had to correct the fender/door gap as new sheetmetal needed quite a bit of work to fit properly. Of course the top seam of the fender to nose will be welded as the factory did.
 
Bumpers came back from the chrome shop. 

Good day to you all!, sorry its been such a long time in between posting updates but ive just been working my hardest to try and get this finished now as my time in the garage is coming to a close, and i must be out before march. 
 
ive been really bad with taking photos of everything that ive been doing but i have managed to get a few pictures for your delectation.
 
first off, i did treat myself to a new car, loving it 
 

 
thats enough of that new rubbish, back to the rust and old bits!!
 
so me and the old man popped down the garage to get the brakes bleed and the clutch sorted
 

 

 
a little oil change for the beast, was actually fairly clean oil however i know its been sitting for about 4 years without a change so was worth doing!
 

 
a lovely new pump i managed to get from a gentleman in croatia, it works so well! i cant believe i was using that old one for so long and actually getting anywhere in the car.
 

 
picture of the bay, i know that the paint around the edges is a bit shonky, but thats all cosmetic and i can fix that another time, the main point is to get everything working as it should so it can be driven soon. pretty happy with how clean the engine looks now.
 
then onto the next challenge....
 

lots of air ride bits!


 
i really hope that i can get a good video of the fitting process as it would be helpful for future
 
any questions on airride just shout
 

Having recently completed my air conditioning system, i thought i would layout what it takes to install your own modern air conditioning system. Air conditioning is one of those mysterious things that everyone is afraid of when in actuality its not much more complicated that the coolant system on an M10. There is a liquid that gets pumped around a sealed system and as it expands it cools and then we compress it again through the compressor, lower its temperature though the condenser and then repeat the process.

Level of difference varies depending on the year.
 
The suspensions are the same. 1600s from 1966 - 68 lacked rear sway bar mounts on the subframe, although they can be easily attached. In 69 they equipped the 1600 with front and rear sway bars just like the 2002.  

The work continues. It’s been a blast so far. I have had to continually remind myself that this is a long project. It’s easy to become disenchanted by rust and things I feel are beyond my scope. However, reading and learning are key. I’m not giving up on this little car. 

Here what we would do is fully strip vehicle down to bare chassis and have it stripped down to bare metal to see if any spots need to be addressed. So far its looking like front fenders, and rockers, and rear lower quarters...But overall for a Michigan car that was parked in a bar and garage most its life the floors are solid!
 
 

Here we cut out all the rust to get ready to build our trans tunnel, and rear trunk floor with diff mount....
 
After firewall is built, we will install motor so its running and driving to make sure if we have to add anymore brackets we are doing so before paint...The cars body will also be stripped down to bare metal to make sure no hidden rust holes are found. 
 
 
 

 
Fuse Box Wiring Color Code Cardboard Remake
 
I've design new artwork for the back of the fuse box. There are a few things to note:
 
1) When printing, remember to set the print size to "Actual Size". Print to A4 paper.
2) If prompted for password just type: faq
3) Remember to use a suitable cardboard. I used a heat resistant, waterproof 350gsm paper.
4) Use proper safety when using X-Acto knife or other blades. 
 
Download PDF File Here (Dropbox)
 
About the artwork:
 
On the original cardboard there are 6 terminal blades that do not have their own space but only an incision made on the cardboard. BMW design the cardboard this way so that the board fits tight in its place. I've made provision for this option so instead of cutting around these 6 locations, just make incision using a sharp blade (follow the printed pattern). See sample images here:
 
Factory cardboard (Thanks to Hal for supplying this image)
 

 
Artwork:
 

 
If you have any questions or need help just PM me. 
 
Driv3r

Spent a brief moment updating the KoogleWerks website, added some details on air dam fit/length (so each one is easier to identify in photos I.E; long/short, high mount/low mount, etc.) as well as made a new page dedicated to updates on new product development and prototypes that may (or may not) make it to production.
 
"As we gain manufacturing capabilities and Ideas evolve, we hope to keep you up to date with future products and special projects (some of which are available for purchase now!)" 
- http://www.kooglewerks.com/prototyping-in-progress/
 
and here are just a few random pics...works in progress and oddities.
 
new air dam designs
 
 

Got the car on the hoist and started to strip down the car and remove the S14 (owner unsure what to use it for next)
 
Also found out that the Cali car had more rust then expected....Removed the firewall and fixed the wiper cowl...
 
 
IMG_3286.mp4

Parked in a barn for 15 some years than into the owners garage(he bought this in 75 I believe he said) for another 15 and now we have the honor to bring it back to life for the owner! Keeping it all original and making it look showroom ready! 1972 bmw 2002tii 
 
 
 
 
Instagram @xceedmotorsports follow me of other builds 

1975 2002 Baur Build
VIN 3590497
Karossrie (Coachbuilder), Baur built 1,963 left- hand drive cabriolets, and 354 right hand drive cabriolets between the periods of July(1) 1971 – December(31) 1975. This information is according to VIN coding found on the most complete site I have come across for such information -http://bmw2002.terraweb.com.pt/producao.htm . This blog is about the restoration of my 1975 Baur built on February 21, 1975 and delivered to the UK a month later. The car retains its original Chamonix color. This specific information can be found by contacting BMW at the following email address info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com. As with any restoration , there are always new things to learn, and I will point out facts along the way that have challenged the process – much to do with one- off parts that are no longer available (NLA).

While not currently a well "handling" car, that is one of the eventual goals.  At some point fairly soon, I'll see new wheels and tires, stage 1 or likely 2 kit from IE and upgraded brakes.  For now, the stock seats and seatbelts left something to be desired.  The vinyl on the fronts had been redone at some point, so they were really clean, but the hinges on the driver seat aren't great, the back seat was original and in very rough shape (especially inside it), and the seatbelt retracting mechanisms were completely shot.  I had read that lots of seat upgrades go toward Recaro seats with increased side bolstering.  I found an automotive upholstery place here in Seattle that had a bunch of seats up front, and while the Recaro seemed nice, I chose a ProCar seat that has great support, but was smaller overall and looked a little more "period correct", although looking correct isn't my top priority.  I also bought all new seat belts from @bluedevils here on the forum and they seem to be working great so far!  I also had the upholstery place install the 3 point belts in back while they had the seats out.  The driver seat had to be sent back (they shipped one without a head rest), so here is the current state which shows both old and new seats.
  

Some women have a heel fetish... I have a steering wheel fetish... 🙃 I collect vintage BMW steering wheels. 9 wheels total.
Starting top to bottom...
380 Moto-lita
2 380 GT GLAS wheels
380 Horn Ring
400 NK wheel
2 380 Petri’s
The other two are in TESORO and DERBY.
One of these will be going in TESORO ... can you guess which one? 😏

Announcing the annual RGB winter dinner/gtg at Kreimer's Bier Haus in Cleves, OH, on the western edge of Cincinnati. We have reserved their party room for: laughter, tale tales, making new friends, catching up with old friends, German food, fine beers and a fun evening in general. If you are planning on attending, I would recommend an RSVP on the RGB Facebook page, under this event. Open to all.

This is the story of the swap of a later transmission and front part of the propshaft into a 1967 car, to replace the broken and bent ones resulting from an exploded flexdisk/giubo.
The problems I was facing at this point included:
-shifter platform destroyed (but bent back into shape)
-front part of the propshaft bent and flange distorted
-transmission flange distorted
-mounting point for shift platform broken off the transmission
-shift rod into the transmission was also bent
I could get the original transmission to shift into four gears, but could not find reverse.
I started out by buying a second hand, later propshaft, with two universal joints and four-bolt flanges. That cost me 15 euros, and the propshaft was in fantastic condition - good central bearing, no play in the joints. I lubricated them with fresh grease, and thought I'd be good to go.
It would be rather important that the front part of the propshaft would be of the correct length, because the earlier propshaft has no universal joint but yet another giubo, the center bearing is reportedly different and no longer available (bollocks, it turns out - the dimensions are exactly the same, and the later part should just press on), and the front giubo is thinner.
These are the front parts of the shafts - later one on top, earlier one below:

Reed more!

Photos of US VIN 2762709, manufactured on October 13th, 1972.

some pics of the '02

Yes, I've been trying to source this spring part number 54129634112 with no success.
 
So I've decided to make my own. Credits to Harold for telling me that he also made his own and it's been working great.
 
I visited the local store and the only thing that matched the mechanical description was a zinc plated "R" clip in 3/16".
 
Using a picture I had of a genuine W Spring, I used two pliers and bent the R to W spring. It might not be a perfect W, but it's W enough! Just remember, the key is to use a good quality R clip.
 
It works perfectly as it should.
 



Another step closer! [emoji482]

Dedicated SCCA Solo FSP 26 racecar

 

Happy New Year!
 
A majority of the metalwork is complete. Fenders are off again for some under fender media blasting. Firewall dents have been massaged back into shape. Dash is out and has been sent to Just Dashes. Trunk welds have been cleaned. We discussed door gaps with the new fenders, the gap tapers from narrow to wide at the top. I approved the work order to get the  door gap to be correct. Also discussed the vent window frames, Vern's originals are patina driver quality,  Mario is going to check his inventory and pick the best ones and we'll go from there.

As I mentioned in a different blog of mine, I bought some BWA Sportray wheels 13x6 et13. I happen to find a few pix of them with gold centers and I really dug them. So went to a light restoring of these. ready for paint removal.

These wheels were in great condition and the paint did come off with ease for the most part. Ive done a set of euroweaves before and those were a PITA compared to these. The lips were machined and looked good cleaned up but it would take more time to get them fully polished.

primered.

Waiting to mount the 205/60/13 Federal 595s on.

The difference will be amazing...I hoped.

I knew when I bought these wheels that the caps were different but from what im reading, caps are hard enough to find. At least I have some. For reference on the difference.


And mounted up.
 

I also put electrical tape on the grill slats to freshen up the front end.
 
Cheers!

 
So, this project has been on hold for a while as my next big step is to really learn how to properly tune MegaSquirt, and I just haven't had the time to commit to that.
 
But, I had a couple hours today which I spent casting a proper delete plate for my distributor. This is my first sand casting using a core (to create the hollow for the cam end).
 


 
You'll see there's a little divot at the upper left. This is where I can drill and tap for the oil pressure sender, although I may end up moving that over to the oil filter housing.
 
That's it for now.
 
Jesse.