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About visionaut

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  1. Yeah Tom, you’re right. I had a brainfarht. The tach adapter is for the MSD... Tom
  2. Not sure of Hot Spark, but with a PerTronix dizzy setup you need to also run a Tach Adapter to have a non-erratic tach.
  3. Ouch, Marshall. So why exactly are my Kmac stage II crap? They’ve served me quite well for a long time (before GC). 7075 Al, replaceable elastomer-encased spherical bearing, large-diam sealed thrust bearing, low stack height. Pretty easy to adjust (camber/caster) to me - though I tend to set and leave em. Tom
  4. Add 1/2 oz blinker fluid, then run 10-15 left-hand donuts at 3/4 throttle to push the fluid out to the faulty side... seriousness
  5. Ye, like Tom said - Hazard switch (the resistor version with the center pin)
  6. Jim’s look to be 9.5:1 grand pianos. Dome height is 6.8mm if so (per the spec sheet Les posted). I don’t think those numbers over/under the |_|_| say or encode anything about the comp ratio, and are most likely internal mfg/tooling/batch IDs (?).
  7. Thx, Jim, for the pic. So the markings on mine must be the ‘old style’ Mahle piston markings? My 89.97s had markings like my 89.47s I posted too.
  8. Here’s two pics of a used Mahle 2nd-oversize (89.47) 9.5:1 ‘grand piano’ for the E12 cylinder head. Note the markings and locations are a bit different than Healey’s, making me suspect his piston might not be Mahle. I ran the above prior to my last rebuild, where I went to the 89.97 version of the exact same Mahle 9.5:1 grand piano, which I sourced through IE back then (2006). It was cited as being 4th oversize (1.0 mm larger than stock). Jim’s pistons posted above are also 4th oversize, but look to be the 10:1 dome profile, for the 121 head. Tom
  9. I have the Covercraft UVS-100 sunshade (they make for the 2002) on mine... it’s hard backed, and folds vs rolls up like your Weathertech. I’ve had it almost 20 years.
  10. I also run the RE v2 quick-release, and I do believe it’s a “house design” made for RE by NRG. Relatively low 2.25” stack height, multi-wheel pattern hub, with a proven/sturdy design, that’s easy on/off with its paddles. IMO it’s best matched with a flat or very low dish steering wheel. Tom
  11. Here's 2 crappy phone pics I just took of mine. It's more of a dash-topper, as it doesn't cover the lower parts at all. Yeah, I remember when I got it the Covercraft ordering page had the option to include or not the seatbelt pod cutout. Besides "suede" they offer the cover in poly carpet, "velour", and a tech-looking knit fabric. It could be better, but it works.. Tom https://www.covercraft.com/us/en/shop/1974-bmw-2002/
  12. I’ve been running by the Covercraft black “suede” dash cover and matching rear parcel shelf cover for the last year or so. The material is actually a padded alcantara fabric. It’s cut and fits well enough, with cutouts for the vents and seat belt warning pod. (I used more than the provided amount of sticky Velcro to fit nicely across the entire dash). I think it looks pretty decent. The matching parcel shelf came out really nice too. I considered the cut sewn leather from the UK guy, but the extensive custom fitting/gluing (requiring the dash removal) turned me away. Plus my concern that without preparing the dash to eliminate the cracks they’d be readily visible under the leather. Tom ps: let me know if you’d like to see any pics...
  13. See, they’re always next to steering wheels.. 😝
  14. I’d try checking the Steering Wheels threads...
  15. Yeah, there’s a difference between Euro and US “octane” definitions. See chart. 95 RON = 91 US Oddly enough I myself am fancying a move up in compression beyond 10:1. With the overlap on my Schrick 304, and running here at altitude (home is mile high), and I’m often as not out doing some canyon carving at twice that, I’ve been thinking I could run a bit more than my 9:5:1 Mahle grand pianos without detonation. I’m always on the rich side, safely up there. And higher comp might offset the power-robbing reduced available O2 up here. (At 5K we’re down 15% , at 10K its a 30% loss vs sea level...) On the locally available 91/93 octanes it seems like I could do 10.2 - 10.5. But maybe not? Though such a ‘mile high setup’ option might prove challenging should I venture back to the flatlands... In which case a Detonation sensor might be just the ticket (along with retarding or jetting). Tom

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