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Slavs last won the day on September 8

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  1. It's the inner bearing which has a larger inside diameter due to the larger spindle used on the early 1600, through mid-69. It is larger by 2mm compared to the more common later bearings. I believe the outside diameter is the same. After looking everywhere I found the correct bearings at Pep Boys of all places. I have no clue why in the world they went to a smaller diameter spindle. It's obviously not as strong. BMW increased the spindle diameter on the 2002tii by 4mm. So the early 1600 spindles are mid size between the later 02 and the tii. I don't know what the part # is. It depends on the manufacturer. Most BMW vendors and shops hardly carry any parts specific to the early cars because there is little to no demand for them.
  2. http://www.nauticplanet.com/used-boats/pezzi-ricambio-bwm-marine/#prettyPhoto
  3. Thanks for sharing the pic , Mike. Looking southwest along Hollywood Blvd. as it intersects Las Palmas. They've given the entire area a facelift during the past 20 years. I purchased my first 02, a Manilla 1968 1600, in 1982 and often drove it along Hollywood Blvd. en route to school or work. Most daily driver 02s in the area had damaged noses, bumpers and door dings, especially if parked in these congested areas. Traffic congestion along this route has become extreme during the past 20 years. I avoid the area these days.
  4. You can do it it in 2hrs. in a shop with hydraulic hoist, and that's if you don't encounter any unexpected problems. But, it's a different story at home. I take my time raising the car incrementally on large wood blocks. I usually spend about an hour raising the car. Jack stands have too small of a surface area. I just don't feel safe with them. A lot of people take their cars to the muffler shops which are notorious for welding together the different muffler sections. If you come across this obstacle, you got to cut everything apart. And, never again allow a muffler shop to ever touch your exhaust system. Make time for an entire day to complete this job. Sometimes, it's taken me a couple of days.
  5. 264 for all production 02s including the "Ti" and "tii". The street version of the NK 1800TISA got the 300 while the track cars got more radical than that. 264 is all you need in a tii which in most cases will win a drag race against most home grown hot rod 2002s with long durationl cams and sidedraft carbs. In building the "ti" the factory was looking for a slight bump in performance (+20hp) without sacrificing flexibility. The "Ti" was meant for everyday driving where engine idle, a wide power band, fuel consumption etc. were all taken into consideration. The "ti" motors have bumped up compression and twin carbs along with a mechanical advance distributor. They don't have longer duration cams and larger valves etc.
  6. If only 1.4mm, those pistons are standard 8.3:1 compression.
  7. You got to be careful when swapping M10engine components. A little M10 history; BMW started the M10 line with the 1500 back in 1961. The 1500 has a 82mm bore and a short 71mm stroke, delivering 80hp with the single barrel Solex. Shortly after the introduction of the 1500, BMW introduced the 1800 in 1963 with a larger 84mm bore and longer 80mm stroke. The 1800ti and TISA followed in 1964. These were the first high performance models. But, going back to 1963, an owner of a small Bavarian typewriter company, created the first Alpina kit for the 1500 to bring it up to par in horsepower to the 1800. The kit included manifolds and Weber DCOE 40 carbs along with an air filter box for the otherwise stock 1500. This kit was good for a boost in about 10hp. Alpina served as an inspiration for BMW to create the 1800 and 1800ti. BMW created its first 1600 M10 during 64-65, after the 1800. In making the 1600, they retained the bore of the 1800 and combined it with a 1500 short stroke crankshaft. These first 1600s were installed in the four door NK cars. They were good for 83 HP. The 2.0L was created in 65-66 by boring out the 1800 block to 89mm and using the 1800 crankshaft, but with additional counterweights to account for the larger mass pistons and rotating mass. In 1966 the 2nd generation 1.6L was created for the 1600-2 or the first 02. This engine got an additional 2 hp, raising output to 85hp by incorporating the larger intake valves of the 1800ti. During 67-68 BMW created the 1600ti which was good for about 105HP with the addition of taller crowns on the pistons, raising compression, and twin side draft Solex carbs. During 1966 BMW created the 2000Ti with bumped up compression and twin sidedraft Solex carbs. In 1968 BMW dropped its 2.0L motor into the body of the 1600-2 and created the 2002. During the same year it also created the 2002ti by borrowing the motor from the 2000ti NK. It also redesigned its 1.8L motor in 68 to a short stroke configuration by using the 2.0L block with its 89mm large diameter pistons and combining it with the short stroke 71mm crankshaft of the 1500 and 1600. This resulted in a smoother running motor. Short stroke motors are always smoother. The short stroke 1.8L was used in the later NK 1800 sedans from 68-72 and the 1802. It was later also used in the 1.8L e21 320i and the e30 318, but with redesigned pistons crowns and heads. All the short stroke motors use the same crankshaft, but at some time during the late 70s BMW stopped forging their cranks. They started using weaker cast cranks for all their engines except the "M" series. The first fuel injected production M10 was created in 1969 and used in the 2000Tii NK. The same motor was dropped into the 02 in 1972 to create the 2002tii. BMW essentially kept the same block from the inception of the M10 in their 1962 1500 . It just bored it out and / or added additional stroke to increase displacement. In the case of the 1.8L, in 1968 it changed the configuration of the motor from a small bore / long stroke arrangement to a large bore / short stroke arrangement. The short stroke 1.8L, which you are referring to, has the same 89mm bore of the 2.0L. But, its 89mm pistons are not interchangeable with the 89mm pistons of the 2.0L because the short stroke motors have a different pin to deck distance compared to the longer stroke motors. And, this is also the case with the early long stroke 1.8L which has the same diameter 84mm pistons as the short stroke 1600. The pistons are not interchangeable. BMW used the same length connecting rods in all their production M10 motors. The crankshafts were all either 71mm stroke or 80mm stroke. As I pointed out above, BMW stopped forging their cranks during the late 70s. So, if you are hell bent on building a short stroke 1.8L with a strong crank, you would need to hunt down an 8 bolt 1600-2 or 1602 or 1802 crank of 1970-76 vintage. The later 1.8L cranks as used in the e21 320i and e30 318 are cast vs. forged. BMW arrived at the conclusion that forged cranks were overkill and too expensive for most of their production cars. But, they still use them in the “M” series and the race motors.
  8. Are you having problems with the torsion bar or spring bar keeping the hood up ? It's not that hard. You just have to have some patience. I always remove the hood when pulling the motor. Before I do I draw an outline around all the washers/ bolts fastening the hood to the brackets. But, even if I don't, I can usually realign the hood in about 20-30 minutes. I'm up here in Burbank which is probably 70 miles North of Mission Viejo. Otherwise, I'd help you. Slavs
  9. Toby's approach is sound and feasible. It beats pulling the trans back. But, nothing beats the ease of replacing the slave on the stock 4 speed. The 80-83 1.8L US spec 320i feels better and more natural with the 245/5 and the 3.90 diff than a 2 liter with a similar set-up. 1st gear doesn't feel like a stump puller because the 1.8L of the 320i is a short stroke motor (71mm stroke vs.the 80mm stroke of the 2.0L). It has less torque, especially at the low end. With the 2.0L 1st gear only feels natural with the 3.64 diff, otherwise it feels like a "Stump Puller" with a 3.90 diff and especially with the 4.11 diff. But, if you mate the 245/5 with a 3.64 diff and 2.0L, 5th gear probably feels a little too long and tall. There is no perfect solution. The best compromise is the 3.90 diff. This leads me to think that the 245/5 was designed with the short stroke1.8L in mind. Those motors were all over the place and the junk yards. I'm surprised there are not many of them installed in 2002s. Yes, by that time BMW had stopped forging their crankshafts, but for a stock or near stock motor the cast cranks are adequate. Or one could replicate the 1802, which also had the short 71mm stroke and mate it with a 245/5 and a 3.90 diff. The 1802 an 8 bolt forged crank, the same one used in the post-69 1600.
  10. I have collected a complete 5 speed conversion kit, tranny, shortened and balanced driveshaft, linkage, brackets etc. in anticipation of installing it on my other car, a 69 1600. But, I have become disappointed with the 5 speed conversion in my 67. For me, it's over rated. The 2002 loves to cruise at 75mph-80mph in the 4,000rpm-4,500rpm range with the stock 4 speed and 3.64 gears. It's both, in the power band and quite comfortable. So, I don't really see the need for a 5 speed overdrive and the complications associated with it. It's a lot easier for me to pull a 4 speed and re-install it vs. the same procedure on the 5 speed which is heavier and impossible for me alone to manhandle while working alone under the car. Doing the work at a shop is a lot easier, but I've been doing all my own mechanical work all these years, and I can't afford BMW specialists. I'm my own "Specialist". In addition, I don't trust most of them and / or the people they hire to do the work. I've seen enough of their sloppy handiwork and short cuts. There are probably just a handful of shops out there who do the work properly, but they are too expensive for me. That's my venting for the day. Slavs
  11. Mike, thanks for the input regarding the 3.64 diff and 5 speed overdrive combination. I have a couple of long neck 3.64 diffs laying around. So, doesn't hurt to try. I don't think there is an easy way to replace the slave, though, short of cutting out a hatch in the tunnel. Slavs
  12. I got to take a 2nd look at mine. There isn't much room in there. The good thing is that it lasted 12 years. I can't say that about the rest of my hydraulics like the clutch master. I'm lucky to get 5 years out of one. Maybe some of these things have been sitting around on the parts shelves too long. It was a pain aligning that driveshaft with the transmission. Some of the kit manufacturers may be changing their jigs slightly or not all 02s are alike. If that driveshaft is off a little, your Guibo won't last very long. The previous owner of the car was changing Guibos frequently before I aligned the driveshaft. With the 5 speed OD and 4.11 diff, I don't think its all worth the effort. I'm almost back where I would be with the stock 4 speed and 3.64 diff, especially with my 205/60 x 13 tires which are 3% shorter vs. stock. That reduces my gearing by an additional 3%. I'm now only 4% taller in 5th than I would be with a 4 speed and stock gearing and tires. I'd probably be better off with a 3.90, which is what most of you guys are using with these overdrive boxes.
  13. Those of you who do your own wrenching are probably familiar with the difficulty in accessing and replacing the clutch slave on the 245/5 retrofitted to the 02. I've had mine in for 12 years, and its showing the first signs of going "South". It seems I will have to partially remove the trans to replace the slave. I'm not the biggest fan of this transmission. And, I'm on the fence of removing and replacing it with the stock 4 speed and 3.64 diff. If I have to pull back the trans every time I replace the slave, I'm done with this thing. The previous owner had it installed by a shop,and I spent two days realigning the trans and driveshaft. It entailed removing the trans cross member and slotting the trans mount hole on it. I also had to shim it about 1/8". This finally solved the vibration and guibo wear issues. And, the previous owner was charged $$$ for the conversion. It's one of the reasons I do my own mechanical work. What have some of you guys done when replacing the slave ? I've noticed that a few of you have cut out a hatch on the transmission tunnel to provide access to the slave cylinder. That's a little too much of a rat rod approach for my taste. Any tips? And, once replaced, how in the world do you bleed the damn thing ? Why in the world did they mount that slave higher up on the trans? I understand that the 320i tunnel is roomier, but it is still not the most accessible location. This may be one of the most over rated "Upgrades" to these cars. Slavs
  14. That's a lot of work. Let us know how that 5th overdrive feels like with the 3.64 diff. I was thinking of installing a 3.64 with my 245/5. The 245/5 in my car is mated with a 4.11LSD long neck. I have a stock 2.0L engine, The gears feel a little short except when I'm in 5th. I can easily start from 2nd, and 1st gear is almost useless. But, since I have the 4.11diff I'm not gaining much over the 4 speed and 3.64 configuration of the stock 2002. The sweet combination with the 245/5 is probably the 3.90 diff. But, it's difficult finding a 3.90 long neck variant here in the US. The ones on the NK cars have drive flanges which are not pre-drilled to accept the newer style half shafts. The previous owner had the 245/5 conversion done by a BMW shop. They used one of their kits and slopped everything together. When I obtained the car I noticed the driveshaft was not aligned in neither the vertical or horizontal plane. There was some vibration. So, I had to shim and slot the transmission mount hole on the bracket. I haven't any problems in the last 10 years. My main concern is the lack of clearance between the transmission tunnel and the clutch slave. It's not going to be easy replacing the slave in the future. The previous owner had the transmission rebuilt, and the shift pattern is tight for now. I've heard that the shift patterns on many 245/5s tend to be on the sloppy or vague side.
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