Slavs

Solex
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  1. Slavs

    early Alpina carbs

    Before BMW even made their first "Ti", the 1800ti in 1964, Alpina made its first kit for the BMW 1500 to bring it up to par in horsepower with the newly introduced BMW 1800 in 1963. When the Neu Klasse 1600 4 door came out , they applied a similar kit for that car and later to the BMW 1600-2. The early kits lacked the cylindrical air cleaner box since it wasn't yet available. Ben of 2002 AD fitted one of these very early kits to his BMW 160 Cabriolet. They were jetted and set up for the otherwise stock motors. http://www.02forum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=975&start=10
  2. Often overlooked is the exhaust manifold. If you don't have one already, get the non-smog exhaust manifold. It makes a difference in the flow and torque. It is ideally tuned for the stock resonator and muffler. You will loose bottom end and torque with the free flow exhaust on a stockish motor. Not to mention the noise. My 2 liter likes the stock exhaust, But my 1600 likes the Ansa sport resonator with a stock muffler. You can try that. I've tried the Ansa sport resonator along with Ansa sport muffler, and it was too loud. I also lost quite a bit of low end power. It is not ideal for the car. The Ansa sport twin tip muffler is also way too heavy and bulky. I gave it away nearly new. And, I'll never go that route again. But, the Ansa sport resonator is lighter than stock. It fits well. I know little about all the other exhaust systems out there. Slavs
  3. Slavs

    Oh no, don't tell me.....

    I've replace the heater valve with the box installed in the car. You just have to be careful and have a little patience. Slavs
  4. Your 1800 crank does not appear to be fully counterbalaced with 8 counterweights. It rather has 4 counterweights like the 1600 crank. The 1800 and 1800Ti were equipped with these cranks. They can be replaced with a standard 2002 fully counterbalanced crank. I doubt any machining is required. Slavs
  5. Petronix will fail with no warning. And, when they do, your engine will cut out no matter where you are. One of my friends was in the middle of an intersection making a left turn when his Petronix failed with disastrous consequences. The Petronix kits will not fit all 02 distributors. In my opinion, these things are junk.
  6. Slavs

    volvo brake upgrade

    The stopping power with those monster Volvo calipers is very impressive. But, not all 13" wheels will fit over them. You'l need 14" wheels to comfortably clear them. They are a low budget solution to Brembo and Wilwood.
  7. Slavs

    volvo brake upgrade

    I had the set-up on a car I owned for about a year. With braided lines, the car stopped really well. But, I thought the entire set-up along with the large 14" tires and alloys was too heavy. You can feel all that extra weight. You don't really need it on a street car, and I think it is too heavy for even a race car. If I set up one of my cars with the vented rotors, I will at least use lightweight calipers such as the aluminum Brembo calipers.
  8. Slavs

    Types of Dashboards

    Early 1600 dash from 150XXXXXX car in my 152XXXXXXX car which came with a similar dash minus the 1600 badge.
  9. The quoted the dimensions incorrectly. The old metal sleeved bushings are 27mm in diameter and 59mm in length. Slavs
  10. The metal sleeve on the early bushings is part of the bushings, and in most cases comes out with the rest of the bushing when you press it out. BMWs new replacement bushings exclude the outer metal sleeve. They are rubber. Its just that BMW screwed up and made them about 1mm too small in diameter. Since they are rubber, perhaps they are 2mm too small, as they were meant to be pressed in to the trailing arm opening. I imagine I can make a thin 1mm thick metal sleeve and wrap it around the bushing, then press it in all together. But, that may be tricky. Another possibility is to take bushings for the post 69 02s and have them modified and cut to the specified length. imagine this would be easier to accomplish with the urethane versions, but those are probably too stiff for the street. BMW increased the width of the mounting ears on the newer version subframe, but retained the same dimensions for the trailing arm. So, in the newer bushing design they added a rubber lip to the bushing. From my experience, the newer bushings eventually walk or shift just as much, if not more than the older design. Although, they widened the spacing on the subframe ears for the trailing arm probably in an effort to make it stronger. One would think that the logical thing to have done would have been to make the the trailing arm rail also wider. But, they took the less expensive route. Another argument is why in the world did they get rid of the more robust long neck diff ? It holds more oil and seems like a more sound design. You can remove the front flange and replace the seal without affecting the crush collar. That is not the case with the short neck. I don't think all of their changes were improvements. Slavs
  11. An example when speculators and opportunistic greedy vendors of the "Bazaar" jump on the band wagon to make a quick buck.Back in 1998, I sold one of these complete NOS sets, still wrapped up, to a local restorer for $125.00. Kind of wonder if this is my old set. The 02 community has been hijacked. 02 parts are now more expensive than the Porsche parts. Simply ridiculous ! https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OLD-STOCK-1967-1976-BMW-1600-1800-2002-2002ti-2002tii-Grille-Set/323607638793?hash=item4b5884b309:g:onkAAOSwPI1axBD5:rk:41:pf:0
  12. Yes, the old high solids paints available in 2002 are no longer available for sale in many parts of the country. In many cases the lines have been completely discontinued. I've never been a fan of PPG, the preferred brand of "Hot Rodders" here in the US. And having spent a lot of time surrounded by them here in Burbank, CA, I've learned that many of them have nothing but contempt for any cars manufactured outside of this country. "PPG" is something they almost exclusively use. Maybe, I may be biased in taking such a harsh view of them. If any of you guys can share a good quality single stage urethane paint brand with me, please do so. I've had some bad recent experiences with painters. Slavs
  13. This is my Granada Red 1969 1600-2 which I just pulled out of my garage after 7 years of hibernation. I left it out for two days so that the rain can wash away the very thick layer of accumulated dust. The following morning I just wiped it down with a towel. I only washed the wheels with soap and water. I had this car painted back in January of 2002, and it spent 10 years of its life in the elements and sun. Back then, I purchased a gallon of Dupont's Chroma 1 line single stage acrylic urethane for $600, including hardener, reducer and rental of a spray booth. I then hired a young painter who worked at the facility to paint the car for $120. That is all they charged. And, this is the result 18 years later. I never color sanded it because the paint was applied so smooth. The paint has a lot of dept and is extremely durable. I've seen a lot of so called $7,000 paint jobs today that don't look nearly as good. Now days, everybody is trying to sell you two stage paint which eventually peels. In my opinion, it also looks artificial. But, now there are fewer painters who paint with single stage. What I'm trying to illustrate is just how inexpensive it was to achieve this result. My car isn't perfect, but it is presentable and very functional. It's a matching numbers car with a tired, but smooth running motor and stock mechanicals including the Porsche synchro trans which works flawlessly. I purchased the car back in 1990 from the original owner for $900, and I drove it home. It only needed brakes at the time. The paint was faded, but otherwise the car was rust free.