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Slavs last won the day on September 8 2020

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  1. I guess I'm about a year behind in respect to BMW's unveiling of their retro R18 bike. It's 1800cc with about the same horsepower as BMW's M10 1800cc while torque is on par with the standard M10 2000cc. Given its size, this thing appears to be designed for the American open road market. https://www.roadracingworld.com/news/bmw-introduces-new-2021-model-r-18-cruiser/
  2. Wow ! Those are really long 1st and 2nd gears on the race and rallye boxes. These boxes seem like they were designed for use with low geared diffs, something above 4.11.
  3. I would pose the same question. I noticed there are different versions of the close ratio, differing in the length of 1st gear. In all of them 1st gear is longer compared to the standard four speed, some being longer than others. The rest of the gears are crunched closer together. I believe the thinking was to lengthen 1st gear to make the car more competitive from standing starts. You can get out of the hole further out before having to shift into 2nd and loose time doing so. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. Given the rarity of these boxes, any of the versions would suffice. I once thought I'd eventually run into one during my junkyard picking days 25 years ago. I'm sure some of them ended up there. But, I had no such luck.
  4. I'm sure somebody who gets aroused enough will fork out the $$$. It appears to be a good rebuild, especially if you found new Porsche synchroes, which are unobtanium. I have a full set I will never part with. The way prices have been going lately, nothing surprises me. We're in 1967 Porsche 911 territory where people pay $10K for an unmolested crankshaft. I guess I should have bought a rebuilt one for $1,500 20 years ago. That was the going price then. I'd run a 3.45 diff with a 2L or a 3.64 diff with a 1.6L mated to one of these boxes, for a little overdrive effect in 5th. Otherwise I don't see the point of one of these boxes unless you have a race motor with a narrow power band.
  5. The control arms are all the same, but the control arm bushings differ. The control arm mounting ears on the short neck subframes are spaced further apart in comparison the long neck subframes. Since the factory used the same control arms they made up the difference by installing wider control arm bushings which protrude further out from the control arms. These wider bushings are the more common rubber bushings. The earlier bushings are also rubber, but metal sleved. They are also narrower and almost flush with control arm housing when installed. They protrude perhaps less than 1/8” while the newer wider style bushings protrude about ¼”. If you choose to use your existing 1968 1600 control arms with the newer shortneck subframe, you will need to remove your existing metal sleeved bushings and install the newer and wider rubber bushings. But. removing the old metal sleeved bushings is a challenge. And, if you take them to the shop, they should be careful not to bend the control arm in the process. The drum brakes on the 1600 are smaller in comparison to the 2002. So, if you are planning on running the 2 liter motor, you should use the bigger drums. If you want to retain your existing control arms, you can install the larger drums, but this requires installing the larger backing plates for the drums. I forgot if you have to loosen the castellated nut on the rear bearings to perform this task. That nut is torqued down to over 200 ft/lbs. Another thing to consider is the rear sway bar. 1600s through 1968 were not provided with mounting tabs for a rear sway bar. These mounting tabs are located on both, the subframe and control arms. They could be fabricated and welded in place. But, if you are going to swap to a short neck subframe, you might as well also swap to the control arms with the bigger brakes and mounting tabs for the rear sway bar. When doing this job, I recommend you install all new rubber control arm bushings. The newer style control arm bushings are easier to remove and find.
  6. The 75-76 cam may have been slightly different, but it was still the same 264 duration. As stated by some of the above posts, it was only different with respect to precision and tolerances so to accommodate the smog equipment of the era. As much as people would like to believe that the "Ti" and Tii" variants got a special cam, this was not the case. When people build their motors they often opt for a longer duration cam. And, all types of cam duration numbers are thrown around on the internet. But, BMW only used the 264 cam for production cars. Long duration cams were reserved for race prepped cars. The average customer wanted a car with a smooth idle and all around good performance, not a car with a lumpier idle and a narrower power band. The factory produced the "Ti" variants for individuals looking for a slight boost in performance (+20hp) without sacrificing flexibility. That's why the "Ti" engines were essentially identical to the standard motors except for a slight bump in compression and addition of sidedraft carbs. Alpina's first bolt-on kits were designed for the otherwise stock 1500cc motor to give it a 10hp boost from 80hp to 90hp and make it equal to the newly released 1800 with 90hp. BMW then followed up with the 1800ti , where in addition to the siderdrafts, they also bumped up compression, raising horsepower from 90hp to 110hp. This was the formula they applied to all "Ti" variants which followed,1600ti, 2000ti and 2002ti. It is fairly easy to build a factory spec "Ti" motor, if you get a hold of the "ti" pistons, carbs, manifolds, linkage and air cleaner canister. The cam remains the stock 264.
  7. This wheel was used on all standard 1966-67 1602s and the Cabrio, but not the 1600ti which got its own specific wheel. It is not specific to just the Cabrio. Your example appears to be in very good shape. It really looks good on all 02s with the non-padded dash and chrome dash trim, but as stated in the add it fits all 02s. The contour of the single spoke nicely fits the non-padded style steering column cover. And, it is smaller in diameter in comparison to the larger three spoke "Bus" wheel. I'm not affiliated with the seller. I'm providing a pic for comparison with a 1968 three spoke 2002 steering wheel. The pic is inverted and my spare 67 1600 wheel is missing the cover over the spoke.
  8. I have a set left which I grabbed from a 320is for less than $20 each. They have a small BMW logo on the side. My brother used them in his 02 for many years, and now they need to be reupholstered. I personally don't think much of this style of Recaros as I feel their styling and height doesn't match the 02 all that well. They are also too narrow for my taste. I also have a spare low mileage 245/5. And, I'm not a big fan of this transmission in the 02. The slave cylinder mounting location does not suit the 02 well. And, servicing this slave cylinder when mounted in an 02 is a difficult task. 5th gear is also too tall. That's why most people running this trans switch to a 3.90 diff to make up for the long 5th gear. My $20 Recaros and $100 245/5 will always remain as such for me.
  9. Between 15 to 25 years ago e21 320i cars littered the Pick-A Part wrecking yards. On the open market, entire cars could be had for under $500. This included the "S" models with the Recaro seats and and limited slip diffs. I checked the yards on a weekly basis and would only remove the Getrag 245/5 transmissions if the car had relatively low mileage on the odometer. Sure the odometer could have flipped once, but there were other indicators of a low mileage car. They charged $100 for the four speeds and $125 for the five speeds. A limited slip diff set you back $75. Since the 245/5 is relatively small for a 5 speed, they passed for four speeds, and I was able to get them for $100. Sure you get greasy removing them, but that was part of the fun of obtaining them for dirt cheap. And, now they are in excess of $1,000. Things have really changed in this hobby.
  10. This only applies to short neck diffs. The long neck diffs are a different design where you don't have to worry about pre-loading the crush collar every time you replace the pinion seal. In the long neck there is another nut further down in the neck which pre-loads the crush collar. Short neck diffs are a compromise where BMW adopted them because they were cheaper to produce. They did away with the long-neck diff in early 69. So, most 2002s are equipped with the short neck diff, unfortunately. The 68 2002, though, has the long neck diff and also a better driveshaft.
  11. To flare or not to flare is a matter of personal preference. I personally don't believe it to be a good practice unless you have some serious rust issues in the area. During the late 70s and early eighties a lot of Porsche 356, 912 1nd 911 owners cut up their cars in favor of body kits and flares. Those cars are nearly worthless in comparison to the clean survivors. To each his own on this one. If you're on a budget, just drop in the 2.0L and never mind about the driveshaft and diff for now. It's not ideal though/ But you can change the other components as time and money permit. I highly recommend that 3.64 long neck when you come across one. The mechanical clutch is adjustable, and I'm sure you can get it to work with any of the 2002 clutches.
  12. The long diff in 3.90 ratio is pretty rare in this country. But, it could be found on the 2000Ti and 2000CS cars imported here into the USA. The only 02 factory equipped with the 3.90 long neck was the 1600ti, which was never imported into the US. Some 1600ti cars had the 4.11 long neck diff while others had the 3.90 long neck diff. Some of the 1976 US spec 2002s were equipped with a 3.90 diff, but it was a short neck unit. The reason they equipped it with the 3.90 was to make up for the loss in power due to all the emissions equipment required at the time etc. The 3.90 is somewhere in the middle between 3.64 and 4.11. In comparison to the 3.64 you will be 6% buzzier and shorter on the top end. I'm not crazy about anything shorter geared than a 3.64 for a car with a 2.0L motor and 4 speed trans. Some of the guys here owned 76 02s with the 4 speed and 3.90. So, they can probably give you more info on what it feels like with a 4 speed trans. I can tell you that the 4.11 is awful with the 4 speed trans because I have a 1600 equipped with a 4.11 diff, 2.0L engine and a 5 speed overdrive from a 320i. 4th gear on my transmission is 1:1, lust like 4th gear on the 4 speed. The 5 speed is essentially a 4 speed with an extra overdrive gear in 5th. It's a pretty big step from 4th to 5th which is 18% taller, too big for most people's taste when coupled to a 3.64 diff. When I'm in 4th gear the motor really hates going above 50mph. And 5th takes me to a point which is just a little taller than where I would be with a 4 speed and a 3.64. The car feels great climbing hills, otherwise I feel the first 4 gears are just too short with a 2 liter motor. Most of the guys here who run the 5 speed overdrive opt for the 3.90 diff because 5th gear is too tall with a 3.64 diff for most people's taste. With a 3.90 5th is cut down to about 12% taller than the 4 speed and 3.64 combo. The first 4 gears also become a little shorter. If you have to choose between a 4.11 and 3.90 for your car with a 2 liter motor, I would pick the 3.90. i would pick the 3.90 even with the 1.6L motor. Going back to the 3.64 long neck and 4 speed combination, BMW equipped the 1600GT two seater with this combo. This car had the 1600ti motor, but the diff was the longer striding 3.64. As I mentioned earlier the 3.64 and 1.6L combo feels fine as long as you don't have a couple of passengers in the car. Even then it works, just not as well. If you get a hold of a 3.90 long neck from one of the NK cars, you will still have to replace the the yoke on it. And, you may also have to replace the two drive flanges to where the half shafts are fastened, if you want to use the newer style half shafts (1969-76). The 66-68 1600s came with the older style half shafts with u joints. They had different bolt spacing. By 1968 most 1600 diff drive flanges were pre-drilled for both styles of halfshafts. This isn't the case with earlier diffs. I don't know what you have on your car now.
  13. Yes, if using the 2.0L motor with a 4 speed trans, you should use the 3.64 diff. Just remember, though, you will have to use a flywheel and clutch for the 2.0L. You could possibly retain your mechanical actuation for your new clutch, but I personally don't know how well it works with any of the 2.0L clutches. You may be able to get feedback from someone here on the FAQ who has tried this. Also, I don't know how well your 1600 driveshaft will hold up to the increased torque from the 2.0L. I know it works, but my hunch is that you will be replacing the three flex disks on your 1600 driveshaft more often. And, those flex disks are something like $150 / piece these days. The driveshaft that will work best is the one used on the 1968 and very early 1969 2002 which has the 3.64 longneck diff. But, as I mentioned earlier, if you use the 2002 driveshaft, you may end up with clearance issues where the larger 2002 driveshaft guibo may interfere with the junction point between the fork from the 1600 trans to your shift linkage. Once the 2002 was introduced in 68 BMW made the shift fork on the trans slightly longer so that it doesn't interfere with the larger 2002 guibo. If you have the 1600 specific shift fork, you will need to replace your 4 speed unit with one designed to accommodate the larger guibo of the 2002 trans. 4 speed gearboxes are plenty and affordable. You may already have one one your car. And last, you also have to replace your speedometer with one set up for the 3.64 diff. If you left your 1600 speedometer in place with a 3.64 diff it would read too low. And the other way around; if you installed a 2002 speedometer, meant to be used with the 3.64 diff, on to your 1600 with a 4.11 diff, it would read too optimistic. You mentioned earlier that your speedometer is only reading about 60mph at 4,500 rpm. It may be reading too low because someone may have installed a 2002 speedometer. At 4500rpm you should be moving at about 75mph with your 4 speed and 4.11 diff.
  14. The posts have have answered most of your questions to me. I've driven 1600s a lot over the years and on long trips. On my 400 mile trips from Los Angeles to San Francisco along Highway 5 the 1600 with stock motor, trans and diff did well climbing the steep grade of the Highway through the Grapevine. On the long flats through the San Juaquin Valley i cruised at 75 mph at about 4,500rpm. The car would settle in at this speed for hours. Sometimes, I would push it a little further on the long haul. The 1600cc handles this rpm range a lot better than the 2.0L because it is a short stroke (71mm stroke) motor in comparison to the longer stroke (80mm stroke) 2.0L motor. That 71mm stroke coupled with smaller lighter pistons and a lighter crankshaft make a huge difference, However, the short stroke of the 1600 is counterproductive to low end torque. The 2.0L motor is a more flexible motor in that it has a more consistent torque curve and starts developing quite a bit of torque at lower rpms. At 4,500rpm - 4,800rpm the 1600 will be moving at 75mph - 80mph with the stock trans and 4.11 diff. But, you mentioned you were only going 58-62mph. Something is wrong. Either your tach isn't working or someone installed a longneck diff with one of those racing ratios like 4.54 or something higher. Most of those diffs are limited slip and rare in this country. I doubt that's the issue. It could also be your speedometer. One of the posts above mentions installing the long neck 3.64 diff with your existing trans and 1600 motor as a possible solution to increasing cruising speed and bring down the rpms at highway speeds. I tried this, and it works very well on the highway. It feels like the perfect ratio in 4th gear on the highway. And, I didn't loose as much bottom end as I thought I would have. This really helped on those long hauls to San Francisco. I still drove the car at 4,500 rpms on the highway, but I was moving closer to 85mph. And I could still climb pretty steep highway grades at high speed in 4th gear. The grapevine is really steep on the return trip from San Francisco. I was able to maintain 70-75mph in 4th up the steep grade. The 12% jump in gearing is the sweet spot and ideal. But, you will loose some bottom end where your 1600 will loose some of its spunk. And, it will be more noticeable with a couple of passengers. Coupling the 3.64 long neck to your 1600 is an economical way of getting the feel of an overdrive or 5th gear. If you get a hold of a 3.64 long neck, you will just need to swap the yoke or flange with your 4.11 long neck because the 3.64 unit has a 4 hole yoke while the 4.11 unit has the 3 hole yoke. If you don't have the tools just about any shop can do it for you in a matter of minutes.
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