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Son of Marty

Solex
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Everything posted by Son of Marty

  1. Machining them is out, any honing or grinding will cut through what ever hardening is left (if any) and they won't last for very long after that, C/V joints really don't wear much if properly lubed and kept clean by intact boots, When you disassemble them look for dark spots or rings on the bearing surface and cage if you see any that's the end of the case hardening and they are shot if you find any.
  2. I think the instant media like Facebook ETC. are for people looking for likes and people who agree with what they are doing with the rides but the faq's is where the true knowledge is I've been on here since day 1 and the times the panel has been stumped on any 2002 question can be counted on 1 hand truly the only one I can recall in the last 5 years was the unknown locking gas cap of 6-8 weeks ago. So the only improvements I can recommend is to bring Otis back and get a few more hot chicks. Remember "All your 2002s are belong to us!!!!"
  3. Brighter headlight for sure they just have forgotten how to focus them into a beam pattern other than into oncoming traffics eye's!
  4. I don't know about the Netherlands but some countrys go by the date the car was first registered for the model year so if the vin checks out to be a early enough production that might be your answer.
  5. I'm just spitballin here but the m-10 oil system is not real complex but maybe at sometime (and I'm not pointing fingers at 02coastie) but someone torqued one of the head bolts on the drivers side into a hole that still had liquid in it and it cracked into the main oil gallery below allowing oil to be pushed up to the head gasket other than something like that it's hard to see where pressurized oil has access to #3 cylinder.
  6. I'm pretty sure it's not Atlantic, looks like Bristol to me but as said don't trust pictures on the internet.
  7. Yeah, what Toby said just use regular size flat washers under the bolt head to prevent the sharp edges of the bolt head digging into tunnel and lock washers on the bracket side and your golden.
  8. While the steering is hard at very low speeds it should lighten up quite a bit with any speed on at all like your e-21 does. I would start to look at the mechanical part of the equation strut bearings ball joints linkage etc.
  9. Yes my heart felt thanks to our veterans and also thanks to our allies who are celebrating Remembrance day today.
  10. I'm kinda with Ray, if it's not the gasket ( and I can't see the oil drain hole dumping that much oil) to loose that much oil it's got to be leaking under pressure if your valve guides or seal were leaking I think you would be smoking for sure but it would burn the oil and not let it build up 2 cups of liquid at least not for a long long time.
  11. First make sure the cold start injector is not dripping while the car is running, then I would check the fuel pressure it should be between 28 and 30 psi if it's higher it will make the car run rich. It's kind of hard to believe your burning 30% more fuel though I'd think it would be smelling so rich that your eye's would burn.
  12. No thats way to loose I would also suspect the tensioner too, anyway don't run the engine until you replace the belt and tensioner it not hard to do but a lot of stuff to remove to get the covers off but it sounds like you have a good start on that.
  13. Hammerite's advertising is geared to metal, but it's used quite a bit to touch up fiberglass on boats, try it on a small out of sight section of your box just to be sure their aluminum color is a very close match to the raw aluminum on the m10 engine and it will take the heat and oil with no problem it's what I use for block paint for the last 30 or so years and never had any type of failure or staining, I use the light gray for the blocks as it makes finding drips easy.
  14. I have always used a 225 amp fuse on my trunk mounted battery available at West Marine it's a flat fuse and you can tape a spare right next to it. When I sized it I figures out the draw on the starter should be in the 150 amp range at start so I wanted to leave a good margin for rusty math skills.
  15. Yes taking the sample at the end of the drain period will skew the readings especially with a car driven low miles every year the heavy particulates (iron and lead) tend to sink to the bottom of the oil pan and stick, then drain out with the last drips of oil, as stated above the bottom ends of the m10 are very stout and will generally give good warning if in distress. I also wonder if the recommended amounts they are using are geared towards a modern engine and not one 45 years old.
  16. I have a mint green 75 and love it, the color has a lot of depth to it
  17. A little silicone grease and with a new petal it will take a pretty good wack with rubber mallet to get it to seat.
  18. Toby stuff some steel wool in the vents, It cuts their gum's up when they try to pull it out so they leave it alone.
  19. I build a raft out of 2x6's and oil drums and float it in the neighbor's pool
  20. As Toby said just put a dot of RTV in the small holes at that joint just before putting the head on that's what they are there for. With a new head just before start up with the valve cover off I put the new oil in 2 qts at a time and flood the head intill it's about 1/2" from overflowing on the exhaust side and pour oil in at a rate that keeps it there.
  21. Well both real oem and the blue factory manual show it with the cup facing away from the bushing
  22. You got it the passengers side is shaped so you can discreetly put a death grab on it while looking calm and cool as your driver barrels into a turn.
  23. Yes I'll second Andrew's answer you'd think the washers would cup the rubber but that's the wrong way.
  24. I mounted mine above the right headlight there is enough room and it's away from the engine heat as much as possible. I made a simple bracket out of aluminum angle to hold up the fender side it's been there for many years without a problem
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