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    Brisbane, Australia

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  1. Hi Team Well... this is a bit disheartening. Thought of posting here to see if I can get some tips as to where I went wrong. I spent quite some time today cleaning up the oil pan and preparing everything to install a new oil pan gasket. I degreased all the surfaces etc. I applied sealant to both surfaces and sandwiched the new gasket between the sealant and bolted it up. I torqued the bolts to 8NM. This evening I was cleaning off the excess sealant just to find a crack in the gasket. See picture. Ugh! 1) Any idea why it cracked? Did I over torque? I followed the torque spec. Or may be I didn’t torque in a zig zag fashion may be that’s why? 2) I do have a spare gasket, should I remove and replace with new one? I don’t want this to leak when installed in the car. 3) using sealant with the gasket - is this acceptable? 4) or should I just reseal it without the gasket and just use sealant? Any words of wisdom so I don’t stuff this up again please Regards Raj
  2. Hi Team, I have replaced the crush washer seal on this large bolt. I have searched on this forum and also in the manual for the torque setting for this bolt. Haven't found anything. Anyone have any idea please? Regards Raj
  3. Hi team, As i am putting back the engine together I thought I might as well renew the oil pump chain. The part number for the chain is 11411716989. I called my local BMW and they said they don't have that part anymore and cannot supply. I called some local suppliers and found out that they do have them in stock. Picked up the chain just to find it has the right pitch but it is thicker. So the new chain has a lot of lateral play. I fear it may wear the chain out. Anyway, I am pretty close to just putting the old chain back in the car but before doing that I figured I should ask - anyone else had any success with sourcing new oil pump chains in recent past 6 months or so? If so from where. I live in Australia - so cost of shipping/postage will most likely be more than the cost of chain but I am keen to explore prior to putting the old chain back on. Pic below shows the larger new chain on left and old stock chain on left. Regards Raj
  4. I spent HOURS today just troubleshooting the lights. 1) Pulled all the lights out again and cleaned the contacts on them 2) Double checked all the wattages on the bulbs 3) Cleaned contacts on wires connecting to the lights 4) Checked the earths 5) Checked continuity 6) Rechecked the fuse box to make sure all the wires were connected correctly (this was a lengthy task ugh) Finally I still couldn't get the lights to work. The tail hazards would come on sporadically. It was strange. Or sometimes they wouldn't come on at all. Or sometimes one would come on and not the other etc.... In frustration, I gave the drivers side tail lights a smack from the back. It started working perfectly. Then it died. I gave it another smack and it started again. Same thing with the passengers side. I have figured out that the spring contacts for the bulbs (red circled below) when pressed seem to make the light bulbs work. This is for both lights. Not sure how I am going to fix that. Will have to give it some more thought.
  5. Hi Team, I have a strange problem. I have been going around in circles and I cannot seem to work out what the issue. I cannot seem to find any post on the faq showing similar symptoms as mine. So I installed the wiring harness in the car after cleaning it up and re-wrapping it. I have everything working except the turn signals. This is what is happening: 1) When I switch on the hazard switch, only the rear Right Hand Side signal flashes. All the other three do not flash 2) When I turn the turn signal lever left or right, for both instances I get only the rear Right hand side signal flashing i.e. doesn't matter if I am turning right or left I only get the rear right hand side signal flashing in both instances. All other three stay off. I have put new fuses, the fuse box has been cleaned properly prior to install (the contacts all look clean and shiny). I have checked continuity across the fuses whilst they have been installed on the car - no problem. My car has an electronic flasher unit by the way: Any ideas as to why it would be doing this? Regards Raj
  6. Them plastic white nuts were the issue for sure. I went to the hardware store and picked up a thick and cheap angle bracket. I was only after a few cuts from the bracket to make some nuts. Drilled a hole, tapped it to suite and used it on the buckets. Works perfectly now. Changes angle as I would like it too. Pics below. Thank you all for helping me with this one.
  7. Hmmm.... valid question about the inbuilt bias...I never really gave that a thought....
  8. Actually this sounds like a pretty good option. I might try and see if I can fabricate something decent, similar to what IE sell. Thanks for the tip.
  9. The RHD cars came with the Euro style buckets. Pic below. I do have the original headlight buckets which came with the car. They are much deeper in size and they never came with sealed units in them. They came with a separable reflector (red arrow) which can take a H4 bulb. The reflectors themselves have adjustment knobs on them. The trouble with these lights is that the reflectors are corroded after several decades of driving. They lose their reflective property. They are not chrome plated but are silver lined. Finding someone who can re-silver these is a bit of a mission in Australia. However even if you did find someone who can do it, the cost of re-silvering them is exuberant (in the hundreds just for one headlight). Even if you did manage to get them re-silvered the light output from them is mediocre at best. Most people I know here just put up with the poor lights. Picture below showing a re-silvered reflector. The US buckets mount straight on to the the RHD cars no problem and you can get semi sealed units (for RHD cars) which can be attached to these buckets. The US buckets provide a much larger choice of headlights that can be used on the RHD cars with much better light output.
  10. Thanks for the picture @visionaut. I can clearly see the angle on the buckets. Makes sense. That nut is essential. In the original set up the there was a 'nut type' washer. It would hold the top part of the assembly on the bolt. See blue arrow below. Trouble is when I dismantled these buckets I couldn't salvage those "nuts". So instead I replaced it with a nyloc-nut instead. You can see a picture from IE below off their website where they use a nut too in their setup.
  11. Hi Guy i think you are right regarding them white nylon caged nuts. I am going to try the nylon cutting board method.
  12. Hi Team, Sometime in 2017 I bought a pair of headlight buckets from the States. (Thank you to @71bmr02 for selling me these). I cleaned them up, got them zinc plated, reassembled them back together and spent an eternity trying to work out which is the right and left one (haha). Today I test fitted them on the car for the first time. They fit well. I am just waiting to get a pair of semi-sealed H4 headlights to fit to them. My Questions - You know the two black knobs present at the back of the headlight buckets - My understanding is those are there to help adjust the lights. I am fairly confident I have assembled them correctly. However when I twist them knobs I really don't see any movement i.e. I don't see the buckets changing any angles. Mind you I was holding the bucket in my hand when playing with the knobs. Is the change/adjustment subtle? Should I be able to visually see the headlight buckets change angles when I turn the adjusters? If someone could shed some light please (see what I did there ) that would be super helpful. I really don't want to fit these to the car with the headlights installed just to find that I need to pull it all out and rebuild them cause I messed something up. Regards Raj
  13. Bingo! That's exactly what I want to achieve. Mine is a 1972 2002 Tii Roundie manual. As far as I know there is no relay factory starter motor relay.
  14. Hi Team, recently I upgraded the wiring for my headlights on my 2002tii using relays for the low and the high beams. I learned a lot about how relays work in general. Feeling inspired and wanting to explore more I got thinking as to how I can wire a toggle cut off switch in the car. What I want to do - Have a cut off switch (like the one below) that can be flicked to prevent anyone from starting the car up. Switch would be in the car hidden somewhere. So I can came up with the following circuit diagram. Its plain and simple and mind you I am not really any good with electronics. So this is all new for me. My thought process: - In order to start the car I would have to push down the brake pedal which would engage the 85 to 86 connection on the new relay. There would then be one of three possibilities as follows: 1) If the toggle switch is in the off position then it will not complete the circuit thus not allowing the starter to function and therefore the car will not start. 2) If the toggle switch is in the "ON-1" Position the starter motor shall receive current allowing the car to be started. 3) However if the toggle switch is in the "ON-2" position then as per my thinking it should set of the horns. I thought about how the circuit works for the horn. Currently, without the cut off switch. the horn button would have to be depressed. This would then complete the circuit by engaging the solenoid between 85 and 86 on the horn relay. There is constant live current being supplied to 30 on the horn relay. This would then allow current to flow from 30 to 87 thus setting the horns off. So I thought all I would need to do is by pass the horn button and have the toggle switch ON-2 connected to 85 on the horn relay. Is this correct?🤔 Question - is my diagram logical? Will it work the way I want it to? I am unsure about if my connection from toggle switch to the horn relay is correct? Any criticism is welcome to aid me progressing forward Regards Raj
  15. Hi Team I spent today building this relay harness. I got it all finished and did a dry fit in the car using cable ties. I used 12 AWG wire for the headlights. I didn’t realise how bulky the harness would be. Pics below. I will wrap it up like the factory harness once I am happy with it (tomorrow most likely). Regards Raj
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