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Son of Marty

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About Son of Marty

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  1. A a/f meter is a good idea, but before jetting your carb get the best tune on your engine you can, set the timing and valves then look at your jets you'll be much better off than the other way around.
  2. Don't forget to get all the oil out of the head bolt holes and clean the threads in the block.
  3. Definitely run a inertia switch on any set up with a electric fuel pump get one off any F/I ford at the pick and pull or someone recently posted one off Amazon for 15 bucks or so, some people run a oil pressure switch to cut off the pump in case of accidents but IMHO thats just not quick enough as the car may run for a minute or more just on the fuel left in the float bowl(s). Fire is obviously to be avoided always and to Jim's comment on the fire on the out side won't burn you to death is probably more wishful thinking than anything IMHO.
  4. Yes the 5 speed clutch is much lighter in action in a 02, the first time I tried mine I thought I didn't get it bleed right but it works fine.
  5. If you keep reving it when you start you can run it for years, ask me how I know, but a good rebuilder will fix you up.
  6. If once you rev it will it stay at 14v? If so it likely to be your exciter diode, if it won't hold 14v after reving it up then using your meter set to ac to see if you have ac voltage present if so suspect your diode bridge. All this assumes good ground and brush contact and a good belt/pulley.
  7. BMW has been using sealed front wheel bearings since the 80's and they tend to last way longer the the open bearings in the earlier cars, my m535i fronts lasted well over 200k miles before they needed to be replaced or maintained.
  8. The 02's rust mainly in know spots that are fairly straight forward to repair, the coupes rust everywhere and are extremely complex to repair. So i would take the 02 over the coupe.
  9. Sorry I don't have the link but it did show up in the last week in another piston thread.
  10. If the sealed bearings are c3 rated then I would think all you would need would be a wipe of grease on the shaft and spacer to allow for expansion and to aid in disassembly later on as these cars are going to last for ever and the next 200k mile bearing change is just around the corner
  11. I'd be interested to hear from some of the guys that have access to a dyno if a .5 bump in the c/r would offset the better flow of the later heads, presuming moderate mods to the heads. running a large cam with the 10/1s you'll very likely have to have the pistons cut for valve pockets. PS i'm sure you know you'll have to address the carb to get a real gain in hp.
  12. First we need to know what head is on the car 121 e12 or e21 then measure the height of the dome and theirs a chart here that will identify the piston. As to reusing them comes down the the condition of the pistons and bore you'll need to disassemble the lower end to tell.
  13. Mike is spot on about the mounting holes delaminating from dampness or someone pulling off the panel and ripping the clips through the cardboard. I've repaired a few with JB weld that has been thinned with acetone to the consistency of say thick V8 juice and painting it on with a acid brush just around the hole and then covering both sides with a bit of waxpaper to prevent sticking and put a weight on it till dry.
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