Jump to content

Son of Marty

Solex
  • Content Count

    1,253
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

378 Excellent

About Son of Marty

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array

Recent Profile Visitors

1,907 profile views
  1. Sure, you could thread both sides and make a screw connection or weld it, but whats the problem with the oem way? it worked for the entire production run for the m10 and m30 engines.
  2. Yeah the blue book is available on pdf but like the 02 they just don't smell the same as the 40 year old German glossy print.
  3. After the factory blue book I would recommend this book plenty of good stuff in here.
  4. Well I'm pretty sure there will be interest in this project especially if the price of the plate and Mazda trany could be brought in around the price of the now rare o/d 5 speed I mean who wouldn't want a c/r box with a o/d on top of that😎😀
  5. You don't have a rev limiting rotor still do you? If so throw it in the neighbors pool.
  6. Early o2 did mount the res directly to the master cyl. Real oem shows the same part number for both the elbow and the grommets so something odd happening here, as Tzei said do your old grommets fit?
  7. Try spraying the center bearing with a light oil. if this quiets it down then the bearing needs to be replaced. it's not a fix but should narrow the field.
  8. It really shouldn't have a cross connection to the o/p light, but apparently it does, I don't know if I would be dead set on tracing it down as the egr/reactor box shouldn't need to be reset for the next 30to60k miles.
  9. Have you tried to reset the egr/reactor lights? there is a box on the firewall behind the brake booster support that will have 2 buttons on it press them both in until you hear a click and both those lights should reset, this will not help you o/p light problem but it should take care of the dash light.
  10. Yes you'll need a block to chassis ground cable the same size as the battery feed and yes all grounds should be to bare metal.
  11. Is it leaking down low by the left frame rail? If so thats the fuel return line and the fix is to cap it at the tank with a short piece of rubber hose and a plug clamped at both ends.
  12. Pete the right side is the correct way these get bent up pretty easily by parking curbs ect. Their soft metal and you should be able to knock the left one back into shape.
  13. Mikes right, except I think he meant the left side frame rail. also maybe on the cross member.
  14. It's a prototype we'll see how it works out, I'd think that the v shaped supports between the carcass and the tread would flex and reject mud and snow. I'm not a huge tree huger but the idea of a 100% recyclable tire made on a 3d printer that can't go flat and is highly resistant to road hazard damage is pretty appealing.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.