Son of Marty

My first thought is vapor lock, it's becoming a bit of a problem for older cars due to the gas forced on use these days, there are several threads on fixing this here.

After the nut is torqued down the lock plate surrounds the nut and you'll see a small divot on the flange, in your picture it looks like it's at the 12 o'clock position, with a punch bend the edge of the lock plate into the divot.

Thats the wiper relay, the blinker should be just ahead of the hood latch lever.

They are still available for 2 bucks or so, 23211490120 at your favorite 02 parts supplier.

Unless you are going put your car back on the factory jig to weld the chassis together then they serve no purpose, so weld away. Most people think they are drain holes from the priming stage of painting but that's not there primary reason to exist, back in the days before computer positing and welders the big holes had a pin that located the hole and a locking pin was installed to hold the floor flat and the smaller 1/2 dollar hole locked it straight.   

The needle valve may have come loose also, or fuel pressure is too high. you can also weigh the float to see if it's compromised should be 11 grams or less for the plastic float.

If it was just reconnecting the heater core you'd be fine, but if you have to remove the hose off the back of the head or the return pipe you should drain the system at least part way.

Push on the front bottom "rail" of the seat frame to get the clips back behind the sheet metal. 

The first thing I see is your filter is installed on the return line it's possible that if it clogs up it will raise your system pressure causing the rich running.
 
PS that's going to be a nice car once you get it sorted.

No condenser used with pertronix.

Yes it can be removed with just removing the one shared nut and washer with the front of the intake mani and of course the one long stud on the branch itself. before you tear into it make sure you have a thick washer between the mani and water elbow that sits flat between the two.

First thing is no led's for the "L" light for the alternator to charge properly, the PO probably installed the diode to get the system to charge and it's providing a path for the alternator/battery to feed 12v to the ignition system so the engine won't shut off. I'd remove the diode and replace the "L" light with a incandescent bulb and you should be good to go or maybe stop would describe it better.

If you have the interior out and you don't know if box has been pulled, bite the bullet and pull the box out, it's not as bad as people make it out to be, a rebuilt heater box with new seals and a lubed motor is as good as it gets. Your speed control is on the other slider by the temp control.

I've towed my 02 complete for thousands of miles with no problems, if you have a auto trans then there are limits to how far you can tow it, but with a stick your good to go up to 60 mph or so as far as you car to go. As for the fenders, hood removed your good to go they add minimum support to the body.

Yes you'll be fine without that bracket, you'll need to find a new ground point for the engine but that's not a big deal.

As for the trans itself the pilot shaft has the same diameter through out 02 production.

You can run the metal return line for fuel delivery with just minor plumbing if the return line has been left open on either end be sure to flush it out before using it and inspect it for rust specially around the sheet metal tabs that hold it in place. 

It's a lock out switch when it worked the car would not crank unless the shifter was in neutral, I think it was a 73 only deal.

Right none of the head bolts go into the water jacket unless you have a crack in your block.

That's for the fuel vapor canister, the vent runs from the gas tank to that and then up to the engine room charcoal canister then the air cleaner.

No, the m10 engine is not effected by vacuum leaks to the crank case. 

If you remove the whole mirror from the door mount you'll see a Philips head screw and spring tighten the screw a little (it's easy to over tighten so the mirror locks up) until you get it stiff enough hold but will still allow for adjustment and remount it.

The clutch assembly will change over just fine you'll need to match the throw out bearing to the transmission.

Don't buy your pistons until the machinist determines how much overbore you'll need then don't let him bore the block until he has the pistons in hand. You can raise the C/R with out having to recalibrate the pump. A pretty flat head will be iffy I'd have it decked, if you decide to have the head decked be sure to send the front cover to be decked at the same time. The block is pretty tough but check for cracks around the head bolt holes. Check the head for erosion around the water passages, from the pictures the water passages in the head look good but clean everything up and see. On a Tii you'll have to keep the cam real mild or stock big cams really screw up the k-fish system. As for sending the pump and injectors in I would concentrate on the engine internals and try the k-fish see how it works being external to the engine you can always get them rebuilt later if needed. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
PS, You'll have to disassemble your oil pump and take a look.
 
Marty  

Part #41615480170.