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About NYNick

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Metro NY

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  1. Right. Ridgefield, yes, Salisbury no. He didn't say where in western, CT. I live in Westchester now and have been here my entire life. Dominick's looks like a cool shop. You come all the way from NC to White Plains for service? Wow. I'll stick with Bimmers Only.
  2. He said Western CT. White Plains is too far. Even Bimmers Only in Mount Kisco is too far but still a good shop for that.
  3. I removed mine. I'm in the NYC area and only drive during the nice weather, meaning Spring through Fall. I don't like the look of the added on dealership items and even think the console is unnecessary. That's gone too. I've kept all the parts however. They're in the garage. I have another collector sports car that I've driven for years without AC. Open the windows, open the sunroof, open the rear windows, turn on the radio and go. It's never been a problem for me. If I lived another 500 miles south of here, I'd change my tune. But I don't, so no AC for me.
  4. NYNick

    battery relocate

    No, EZ cool. It's a type of 'bubble wrap' with aluminum layer on both sides. I chose to lay it rather than glue it where I could, especially on the floors so I could get under it easily if I need to (water intrusion?). I also used some MLV to dampen sound. Also only glued where I absolutely had to. Cheap Home Depot rubber floor runner cut to size. esty carpet used. I have a piece about the "rear seat delete" install in my blog. If you really want to go after the rear seat, remove the fronts and give yourself some room to work. Probably just some sticky crud holding down the bottom part along the front lip.
  5. NYNick

    battery relocate

    I can't imagine why it's so hard. IIRC, you unscrew the small bracket underneath the front center of the seat and then lift and pull. The back is pretty easy too. Lift to get it off the top body clips and it should come right out. Bonus! Maybe you'll find some loose change and disco tapes!
  6. NYNick

    URO Door seals

    Where did you loosen the door hinges? Inside the door or on the door frame hinge?
  7. NYNick

    battery relocate

    That's where my 3 pound battery is! I cut the tray in the engine bay right out.
  8. NYNick

    Existential Crisis

    I don't understand the logic. Yes, I can be thick as my wife will attest, but still. Your car is worth X today. If you do nothing, it'll continue to rust and you'll continue to enjoy it. It'll probably go up in value, but not a lot. If you moderately improve it for track use, it'll cost you several thousand in suspension and safety work. You'll continue to enjoy it, but it won't go up in value much as a track use car. If you fix the body, paint it, do the suspension, seals, interior etc., it'll cost you tens of thousands. The value will go up almost dollar for dollar, if not less. If you knock it out of the park, it'll go up a lot and you won't want to drive it. What are you afraid of? Breaking even or not wanting to drive a car that is too nice? Whatever you do, resolve to drive the end result. Otherwise, you're kissing your sister.
  9. NYNick

    battery relocate

    If you relocated the battery, what's the point of having it? On the other hand, it's not hurting anything being there, and only weighs a pound or two.
  10. NYNick

    Researching a '74 Tii

    My son, a car guy like his Dad, recently traded his 4Runner with 150K on it for a 5 speed Jeep Wrangler. I threatened to disown him if he bought a Jeep. I can't bring myself to do it. BTW, the screen shot could've had research on Bezos below the belt selfies. So Ariana Grande is fine!
  11. It's all about where the window stops on the upper seal. If it's high up there, it'll be high when down. If it's low on the seal, it'll be lower. It's a compromise you can adjust with the stops.
  12. NYNick

    Rubber Seals

    The last few months I needed to finish up the car and get it watertight to ship off to the shop for the engine install. I had ordered BMW OEM seals from Steve at Blunt a while ago, and was dreading the various jobs after reading and re-reading all the Tech articles. I decided to put myself in a corner and asked my 30 year old son to help me with the windshields since he had done both of his on his 911 with my daughter. We decided to do it over Christmas while he was here for a few days. I bought the nylon rope and washed the seals in my slop sink, cleaning them with my go-to Dawn liquid to get all the while stuff off. The windshields had been stored in my garage for over two years, so I was anxious to get them on the car and finally out of the way. We started with the front. We laid a moving blanket on the hood, sprayed the seal with soapy water and put the rope around it twice after fitting it on the glass. We also sprayed the car frame to help set the glass. Lifting it into place, my job was to push as he pulled the rope from the inside of the car, slightly behind as he went. This is a simple job, but not easy. With him occasionally telling me to do this or that (in a somewhat firm (LOL!) manner), it took us three tries to get it in. Long story short, it took us three tries on the rear as well. All in all, I'd say it took us 3 hours for both. Job done! Have someone with experience to help. I tackled the lock strip myself later in the week. I bought the stupid tool and gouged, scraped and blundered my way around the front windshield after silcone-ing underneath. The trick here is to use a LOT of soapy water and to get the angle of the tool just right. The corners are the tricky part and a second set of hands would help, as I found out later. Learning that, I enlisted a Porsche buddy for the rear. While he kept the strip aligned and facing down properly, I could concentrate on the right tool angle. We had it done in 15-20 minutes. MUCH easier with 2 people! The trunk seal was pretty easy. My upholsterer had given me a jar of heat activated glue that you brush on and let dry. I then attached the seal, after undoing the hinges one at a time to get it underneath (careful, they're spring loaded) and locked it down with some clothes pins. A heat gun warmed the seal and activated the glue. Easy! I have to SLAM the trunk now but I've got a really nice seal back there. The front hood seal is easy. You just have to decide which way to lay it on the hood. I was surprised to hear form Steve at Blunt that there is some controversy on this point, but I took his advice and laid it on the way he suggested. A little glue and bingo. Next up: doors. I already had that pushing tool that's made of plastic, and tackled the doors. I had stripped the car to get it painted, and didn't realize I needed to put the upper chrome piece on the latch side of the door back on the car first until after I had glued the seals in place. Don't make my mistake! The seal tucks into that piece as well. My biggest problem was the seals were too long...that is, they extended past my rocker panels plastic cover. I didn't stretch them or pull on them, they were just a few inches too long. This is a fiddly job and you need good glue. I eventually trimmed them, even though they have a specific profile at their ends to fit into the rocker panel trim. Sometimes, you just gotta do what you gotta do. This job was tough. Even after adjusting the striker, the doors aren't flush. I hear this is pretty common, but it drives me crazy. Next was the rear windows. This was the toughest of them all. My buddy was already here helping me with the rear lock strip and he pushed me to do the rear window seals. Thank God he did. Being a bit younger than me, he did all the pushing and tucking while I did the guiding but still, took us maybe 2 hours and a lot of (his) strength. Very difficult but they're in, and in correctly. Two man job. After all this I got to install the rear windows and their new seals. Pretty easy and straight forward. I kept one window assembled while I worked on the other one, for reference. They went in fairly easily...wife helped hold them in place while I screwed them into place. All in all, pretty satisfying. I don't want to do them again but if I have to, now I know how!
  13. NYNick

    Existential Crisis

    I'm not sure what you're looking to have completed. Your list of body repairs is extensive and expensive. To wit: Rust is certainly present but not terminal by any means. Fenders, rockers, rear quarter arches, and chin spoiler need new metal (and whatever lurks behind). Frame rails, floors, trunk, shock towers, doors, windshield, etc is all good. I also have many of the patch panels needed and an extra hood and trunk. I would absolutely be keeping the original color Riviera. That's a lot of work. I had a shop in Mount Vernon do my car and it entailed less body work and a color change. PM me if you want to discuss. I can tell you wherever you go, the panel gaps and hood/door alignment should be discussed beforehand. You're talking months of work and many thousands of dollars. How long and how much depends on your wallet, but it ain't cheap. Then there's the mechanical work. You're just going to throw a roll bar in it and go to the track? What about safe seats? Harness? Suspension? Wheels and tires? I'm afraid your idea might cost almost as much as a restoration. Just the mechanical stuff above is thousands. If you're local to Westchester, I'm happy to show you what I did and who I used. I did a lot of the work myself. It's going to be an expensive driver not a track car but I'm still going to drive the hell out of it. We only live once. Nick
  14. NYNick

    14" wheel tires

    Just purchased 195/60/14 Falkens R rated. $100 a piece.