Jump to content

thinksound_mike

Kugelfischer
  • Content Count

    796
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Community Reputation

160 Excellent

7 Followers

About thinksound_mike

Contact Methods

  • Website URL Array

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array
  • Interests Array

Recent Profile Visitors

2,148 profile views
  1. You couldn't build this car for 40k. While some might think the price is high; I don't. Not for what you're getting. It's basically brand new. Full restorations can cost close to or over 100k. If you're looking for a fully-restored 02, this is a good deal. Everything is done!
  2. Been there before. The trick is to tape the button down before removing the handle so the mechanism stays in place. I found that out AFTER I removed my e-brake once. That was about 2 hours with a rubic's cube trying to put that thing back together.
  3. you're better off hitting him up on facebook if you're on there.
  4. One small step for me, one giant step towards my 38/38 swap. Finally got this thing off this morning. Soaking the nuts in PB Blaster must have done the trick. Now time to clean it up.
  5. Mine looked similar but I can't remember which studs is was. I was told blue loctite on the studs. Not sure if there was a difference. The bolts don't have to be a specific torque, just need to make sure they are still tight after driving a few times. That can cause an exhaust leak. This won't help the leaking oil though.
  6. did you seal them with blue loctite or similar before inserting the studs? A few (don't remember which) go into the oil pathways in the head. It could be that. I just had to do this last month when I swapped out my header. Mine were leaking as well. Also, check the torque on the nuts after you get it back together and drive it a few times. They can loosen after a few heat cycles.
  7. might be my next course of action. i did manage to get 1 more nut off. I have the two closest tot eh firewall left.
  8. I have those on my exhaust manifold and their studs. The allen wrench opening on the end is great. Made inserting the studs supers easy.
  9. Hey Simeon, Why would I not have to enlarge the opening? I thought you had to enlarge it for the 38/38 or swap to the Canon. I have the nuts soaking in PB blaster now and I'll leave them overnight. But is there any performance difference with the 38/38 on the standard 2bbl stock manifold vs modified? If not, then I'll save this exercise for side drafts Mike
  10. This is what I've been trying but it's hard getting your arm in the space while maintaining any sort of leverage. I'll hit them with penetrating spray tonight and give it another go tomorrow. I was thinking of picking up a set of ratchet wrenches, but I don't think I'd be able to get the end on the nut since it's so tight. The socket certainly doesn't want to fit right. Thanks for the tips!
  11. dear FAQ, I've been trying in vain to get my intake manifold off my car for several hours and have basically hit a stopping point. I don't want to round the bolts to the point where they're stuck. But, I can't seem to get three of them off. The two closest to the firewall and the one closest to the front of the engine. Is there a trick to this? I put the car up on jack stands and was looking at taking my starter out for better access, but that didn't seem like I was gaining much in the way of room. It's really difficult to get a socket on the bolts because of the odd angle; even with a wobble extension. I've mostly resorted to wrenches but not having much luck getting any leverage. The reason I'm doing this is to swap out my 32/36 for a 38/38. I think I basically have two choices: A. Keeping busting my knuckles and figure out a way to get those bolts off so I can either swap the manifold for a Canon manifold or hog the existing one out. Leaning towards using the stock manifold. or B. Stuff the manifold full of oily rags into the passage ways and hog it out while it's still installed. Remove rags and proceed to vacuum like crazy to make sure I get all of the metal shavings off. Any advice is much appreciated. And I thought doing my heater box was a pain... Thank you. Mike
  12. Weird. I got mine from partsgeek a few years ago. I wouldn't recommend them either. They shipped it without a box and the tips got bent. Luckily. I was home and could refuse it. Replacement showed up the unboxed too, just not dented. Their return policy isn't great either.
  13. The answer is Volvo wagon. V70 R design if you can find a clean one.
  14. That's what I use. Does the job, easy to find and cheap!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.