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  1. Hello, I just got a 1976 02 yesterday 10/13/16. I'm trying to get it running, but the only thing stopping me from driving it off is a stuck ignition switch. As well as smog and registration.... shhhhh, soon to be fixed. But i was wondering if anyone has had any experience with a stuck switch, any tips or tricks to get it unstuck, besides wd-40. Thank you!!!! p.s. Very excited to be part of the 02 community finally!!!!!!!!!!!
  2. Need Help. 1974 TII: Car has not run since 1995 The ignition wiringing is all hacked up and I do not have power to the coil when ignition is in the on position or cranking position. Car does turn over. First picture is the wire terminating directly to the + side of the coil. There is no resistor as I have seen in some documentation. The connector has 2 wires. A red/black and a gold (Yellow) The red/ black wire combine into shrink wrap with a black wire. The red/black is cutoff at the other end and doesn't terminate to anything The black wire Y's off and there is a connector on one leg that terminates to nothing and the other side terminates to a black plastic module (resistor?) The other end of the black Y'd wire feed into the connector that plugs into the HT Ignition module (?) The Gold (Yellow Wire) combine via shrink wrap with a Green/White wire and both appear to terminate to fuse 12 in the fuse box. The Green /White wire also terminates to the HT Ignition module plug that can also be seen in the pictures above. Any help on what I can do to get power to the coil would be most appreciated. Thank you
  3. Hi all, I have a 74 2002 with a 82 320i motor and recently installed e21 electronic ignition. The car currently has no spark. Coil is "pulsing" when I put a test light to it. The coil power is making it to the cap as I checked the under the the cap on the spring that makes contact with the rotor button. I put new set of plug wires , distributor cap and rotor button. The distributor turns and pushes up and should make contact with the cap. Is the car completely out of time or is the distributor worn out? Thanks for any and all help. Ryan
  4. After seeing a couple of threads about keys, I thought I would take matters into my own hands. I don't have know;edge about this car but I do have what I consider significant knowledge about locks, keys etc, especially autos. I locksmith-ed for 12 or so years and still have a great relationship with the guys at my old shop. I went in today to see about helping out another FAQ member and here is what I found.... 69-76 BMW 2002 Key code series is: W-1 to W-2000 and W-7000 to W-8000. If you pull the door handle off the car there are two numbers stamped on the handle. One is probably a 5000 number sequence. The other will be the W-???? number. THIS IS YOUR KEY CODE. Write it down, store it in your memory bank or put it on a sticker in the glove box or on the steering column. I've heard before on the FAQ that it is located on the steering column on the white sticker. It has yet to be found in my car. During my time as a locksmith, the only auto maker that consistently put this sticker in the glove box was Nissan. I know. The trunk has a B??? number and this is your code for trunk/glove box. Valet key should be the same as the Door/Ign (W???? code), but the valet key blank is slightly different to only work Drivers door and Ignition. No Truck/Glove box access with this. Maybe that's why the Germans had two different keys. They are smart. Most reputable locksmiths will be able to cut you a factory key with this number. They can reference the key blank through a number of sources. Most key manufactured today are brass/nickle plated. My old shop cuts them for $5-$10 if you have a code. If you are looking for a steel key, then the price will probably go up because of the key and equipment required to complete such task. As far a cleaning a lock, IMHO, i repeat IMHO and experience, clean lock with electrical parts cleaner or any equivalent cleaner that IN NOT petroleum based, (WD40). Petroleum based lubricants attract dirt. Once clean, a little air or let dry. Then a small puff of powdered graphite. Powdered Graphite goes a long way. Work key in and out and turn right to left several times. Most keys tend to stop working due to wear. The inside of the lock there is usually a row of wafers that correspond to the cuts of the key. These were brass in my lock as in most locks. I pulled mine out just to check. These parts wear together but once the wear is out of tolerance the key begins to catch or not work at all. Ever had to jiggle the key to get it to work? If a key is cut back to factory, then the probability of the key working are at least 95%, again IMHO. I know there will be someone here that has more knowledge. and if so I am always looking for more things to learn. Thanks, Jason
  5. Hello. I'm installing an MSD Street Fire box in my car wanted to double-check with the FAQ collective before finalizing it and making a mistake. I'm running the IE dizzy and my question is around the red wire from the dizzy and the red wire I have running direct from my fuse box to my coil now for switched power. Looking at the directions, it seems like I should join the line from the fuse box to the red wire from the dizzy and connect both to the red wire coming from the MSD. Is this correct? I have the rest of it wired up, just didn't want to fry the thing if my assumption was wrong. Thanks! Mike
  6. Hello, '71 here. I recently re-installed my wiring harness and so far it has gone smoothly for the most part. Starts and run fine, accessories work, etc. However, there is one major oddity. When the key is turned to "run" the headlights shut off. I can also turn the headlights on with the ignition off; is that normal? Additionally, the engine continues to run when the key is moved to "stop". It seems like I may have swapped something in the fusebox and/or ignition and it's causing power to backfeed and/or cutout out in this strange way. I've checked the other ignition threads on wiring and I think I have the ignition switch correct. Looking for advice on common fusebox errors or where else to look. Thanks!
  7. I finally moved ahead last weekend with my conversion of the fuel system to an electric pump to combat my ongoing vapor lock problems. I tried to do it right: I ran power through a relay under the dash, switched by the ignition and with a semi-hidden kill switch accessible from the driver's seat. I put a Ford inertia switch in the trunk for safety. Since my early car had no fuel return line from the factory, I drilled through the box section in front of the fuel tank and ran the wiring and a section of 5/16" tubing through grommets. In front of the rear axle, I installed the Carter P90091 pump and supplied pre-filter. A longer rear seat belt bolt provided a good mounting point. That model pump is rated at 2.5-4 psi. The filter is opposite the pump, on the driver's side of the differential. It's a nice-sized filter used by most body-on-frame Ford cars, trucks and vans from the early '90s through the mid-2010, so replacements should be easy and cheap to find for a long while. I ran 5/16" cunifer line along the factory path along the driver's rocker panel and frame rail. The cunifer line formed easily and won't rust (the panorama photo makes it look more uneven/wavy than it actually is). The line terminates under the battery and runs through a pressure regulator before going up to the carb - both for extra insurance on the pressure and to step the line down to 1/4". A cheepo VW block-off plate (not visible) does the job on the cylinder head. And the proof of the pudding? The pump has been working well! The noise is not annoying before starting the car and barely audible at idle. I did have some hiccups due to crud that must have gotten in the line (should have flushed it first), but after clearing the needle valve and idle jet it's running very well. And no vapor lock! -Dave
  8. So my mom bought me a 123 ignition for a present and I’m currently installing it. But I’m a bit flummoxed at the point where I wire it to the coil. so the distributor has three wires: blue to Earth, red to positive on the coil, and black to negative. Seems straightforward enough. but I’m somewhat confused about my coil. It’s a black Bosch number 0 221 119 017. It appears to have an external ballast. But there’s wires going everywhere and appears that there’s crap left over from a previous coil install—there this big heat sink looking thing on the firewall that appears to be part of some old electronic points conversion; it’s not connected to anything and I assume I can remove it; says Crane AMS xr700). and there’s two wires coming from what I assume is the positive lead of the coil; one goes straight to what I assumed the ballast is (the rectangular thing above the coil) and on the other side it goes into some kind of container. The wires are all wrapped up in black tape, and then on the fire wall they had two wires coming out of a taped up collection of wires and they had spade connectors that connected the wires onto the old distributor. Can I just figure out which of these two wires are pos and neg and just hook the distributor up to them? Alternately, can I just run the new wires from the distributor straight to the coil like in the manual? Or would I connect the positive to a point after that thing on top that I think might be the ballast (but really have no clue). Attached are a pic of the coil stamping on the bottom, a pic of me holding the two wires that were connected to the old coil, a pic of the coil as it’s installed, and a short video showing the whole thing and the wiring mess. IMG_3158.MOV IMG_3158.MOV
  9. Has anyone on here fitted the 123 Distributor on the Tii, if so would you mind sharing the Advance Curve you ended up with ? Thanks Peter Blue 2002 UK
  10. Anyone using the euro headlight city light as a daytime running light?
  11. When I started the car it was idling funny. Different than the normal cold start. It warmed up enough and sounded ok. I drive 500 feet (slowly in a parking lot) and then it dies when I give it gas upon entering the road. Won't start back up. Under the hood I see that the distributor cap had popped off. Not sure how that happened...seems really weird. The cap and distributor were dirty. It looks like there's oil sitting inside and grease inside the cap. Unfortunately I wiped it all away before I took any pictures, but there are pictures below anyway. I put it back on and the car starts, but dies after a few seconds. I read elsewhere on the FAQ that oil can get inside and cause problems, and to use some carb cleaner to clean it up (which I plan on doing when I get home). My question is, since this is a fancy Bluetooth dizzy did the dirt and oil destroy the electronics or whatever is inside? Any other helpful thoughts, suggestions, or wise cracks to entertain me as I wait for the tow truck?
  12. Looking through the FAQ, I found a few mentions of high-priced voltage regulators. And a quick scan of Ebay and Bavauto showed these 3 examples (see pics). First one is lowest price, a Beru unit at $24.60. Second has what looks like a big old transistor added to it, cost is a lot more, a Bosch unit, at $125.89. Third example, from Bavauto, is highest price, also a Bosch unit, at $199.95 Anyone know what the difference is among these three? Or even if there is any? Thanks, -Bob
  13. I have a new to me '75 2002. Among other things, my horn doesn't work. I only have one horn that I could find which I removed and tested to work out of the car. The Hayne's manual shows I should have two horns if the wiring diagram is correct. This got me thinking, providing I can get it working, should I have two horns and if so are they tuned to different pitches or frequencies such as on my 1963 Karnmann Ghia. Using two horns of different pitches produces the best beep in my book. I have removed and cleaned the contacts on all three relays on the drivers side of the engine bay. Does this sound like a problem with the steering wheel contacts?
  14. 2002 M20 no start Hi everyone, I’m looking for some help on diagnosing why I can’t get the M20 in my 2002 to turn over. I’ve used both my Bentley for the E30, ETM, and various other resources to diagnose why the car won’t start. Looking for any advice that I may have missed. In short, when I attempt to turn the key, the fuel pump does NOT run. The fuel pump relay is not getting switched when the ingition is turned on. I’ve spliced the 2002 harness into the M20 according to 6 into 2 document and everything appears connected properly. Fuel pump is functional, all relays are good. I don’t have a spare ECU lying around so I can’t determine with any certainty if mine’s bad. I have performed the following tests per my Bentley on the fuel pump relay, main relay, and motronic ecu: Test Fuel Pump direct to +12V - PASS Test fuel pump relay control - Jump pins on 36+2, ground pin 3 on motronic connector - PASS Test main relay control via motronic connector - PASS - relay clicks Test Main Relay (this was done before replacement)- FAIL - NOW REPLACED!!! per page 6:50 of bentley Test voltage between red-wire and ground of ICV - FAIL Test voltage supply - PASS Test voltage between 30 and ground - PASS Test voltage between 86 and ground - PASS Test voltage supply at large red wire to relays - PASS Conclusion - REPLACE THE MAIN RELAY Test Fuel Pump Relay voltage between 85 and 86 with ignition on - FAILS fails on 12v test between pins 85/86 with ignition on PROBLEM WITH MOTRONIC ground? Starter input to motronic FAILS - This is pin 27 No 12v when ignition on - not sure why this is.Not 100% sure why this is since the 2 black starter wires are connected to the m20 harness via c101/18 pin connector. Thanks Chris
  15. Every time I turn the lights on on my 76 2002, The #8 fuse breaks. I know that the #8 goes to the rear right tail light and brake light as well as the instrument cluster lights. Neither the right tail light or instrument cluster has working lights. I checked the wires going from the tail light to under the dash. I didn't find any wire that was contacting metal. I rewrapped the wires to the rear tail light. I took out the gauge cluster, non of the wires going to the gauge cluster looked fried. I even replaced the light switch cause it was falling apart. I also checked the wires going into the fuse box. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. The only other thing that the #8 fuse goes to is the fog lights but I don't have fog lights so nothing is hooked up. If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know. I also checked the ground to the tail lights which is near the left tail light. I cleaned up the ground. Thanks, Roberto
  16. I have a 1971 bmw 2002. Just bought it a month ago and since day 1 it always seemed a little rough on the idle until about 2k rpm. But once on the run it feels strong all the way to the top. I had idle set at 800-850, life was good. I parked the car and grabbed some lunch, came out started it up and it would barely idle, hovering around 500 rpm. Once if coaxed it over 1500k it would drive normal. One minute it was decent next it was horrible. I grabbed my Vacuum tester and checked vacuum from the manifold and it was pulling 20in hg at idle. I then applied Vacuum to the dizzy and although it did advance it wouldn't hold vacuum and slowly leaked out all of the vacuum. So I have a leaking diaphragm on my dizzy which has led me to many hours of google searching and calling parts suppliers. Where can I get a new diaphragm? Or do I have to send my whole dizzy in to get rebuilt? After reading through here and looking up people who rebuild these and know what they are doing it seems like it may take 7 weeks to get it rebuilt. Any body that has a good suggestion for me to get this back on the road soon would be appreciated. dissy is a bosch 0 231 180 0008 clockwise. with petronix First post on this forum BTW so be kind:)
  17. I have been searching this site and found a few references to a large wire diagram. Is there a link or a place I can go to get this? Or is it a file somewhere here I can download? My initial searches have not found it, but I may be searching the wrong terms. Zach
  18. Hey Guys I'm new to the 2002's. Question, can an HEI distributor from an E30 be installed in a 1972 M10 engine?
  19. Just bought this 1973 Becker Monte Carlo Sport. Have no Idea what these buttons are. I'm not going to use the radio but it will be hooked up to bluetooth iPhone music/radio. Does anyone know what this plug is for? This is on the right side of the read, there is also antenna and 7 pin din connector on the left side. Searched google but nothing related was found. Any help is appreciated. Cheers
  20. Several years ago I burned up my headlight harness running hi-watt H4 bulbs. I took the time to clean up the harness in the engine bay, re-wrap and add extra wires into the dash area for switches, gauges etc. There is a white wire with a black trace that runs down from the main harness and I believe was bundled with the run the picks up the main feed from the starter and also goes to the headlights. Can anyone help me id this wire and what it does? I don't see anything in the wiring diagram. TIA
  21. Hi all, I recently found out my drivers tail light does not work (74 2002 non tii). I tried sourcing the problem, but I cant seem to find where the issue is. So far I have: - tried replacing the bulb - checking the fuses (not sure which one is related to drivers side, but all 12 are in great shape to my knowledge) - checking the connection at the bulb to housing - checking the connection from the connector to the housing (male to female plugs) - have NOT checked the full wires from bulb to front (I hope I dont have to do this) The confusing thing is the passenger side works and all the other bulbs within the drivers side housing work perfectly (including the brake light). That detail makes me think it could not be ground related, but something else. Any help/ ideas? I am not an electrician by any means, so input is greatly appreciated.
  22. A few weeks ago I picked up a mysterious Blaupunkt Frankfurt that a few of you board members helped me identify. Although this radio belongs in a '76, mine being a '73, it feels more at home than the modern Blaupunkt I previously had. It was missing the faceplate and washers however I was able to fabricate replacements on my 3d printer.
  23. I had this rebuilt alternator installed over 10 years ago. No idea of the brand or specs. The bushings are shot-belt is slipping. Can I use standard bushings to replace?...Am I better off just getting another alternator? Thanks in advance
  24. I've got a '68 1600-02 which I swapped in a 82 320i engine into, after converting it to carburetor. Unfortunately I didn't realize that the e21 distributor required an ignition control module to tell the coil to fire. Without knowing that I didn't keep the harness to the e21's M10 and now am stuck with no spark. I haven't been able to track down another harness to wire in a factory control module so I am trying to figure out what my options are. I really miss driving the roundie. Any suggestions on what I can buy/install to get me some spark? I've been curious about one of those universal muscle car style ignition boxes and if that could be made to work with the factory distributor? Thanks in advance! Joe
  25. Car has been running great this summer but while out for 2 hour drive last weekend it wouldn't start after a 10 minute stop. When I turned the key, it turned over once then stopped. I tried again but it just went click. Luckily I was on a flat piece of road so I was able to bump start it. As soon as I got home I grabbed my voltmeter and measured the voltage at the battery terminals while still running. I got 12.0 V at idle and 12.4 V when I revved the engine. I parked it then boosted it directly to the starter and block and then to the battery terminals. No difference, started right up which eliminated the starter. I then removed the battery and hooked it up to my Optimate 6 charger for 24 hours. Battery measured 12.56 V after charging. I put it back in the car and it started just fine. The voltage then measured 13.45 V at idle and dropped to 13.14 V at any RPM over idle then back up to 13.45 V at idle. It's a 2 year old Interstate Battery. I plan on taking it to my friend's shop Thursday morning. He'll poke around to see if he can sort it out.
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