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Found 930 results

  1. When I had my car apart, I had the wiring harness out. I decided to trace, verify continuity, identify, and label everything I could. That saved me lots later on when the harness was in the car. Once I got the harness in the car I noticed something odd with my blinkers. The right blinker blinked a little slower than the left. Originally i thought it had something to do with the used flasher relay I purchased to replace the old one that didn't work well (at all really). Then, when indicating right, the hazard light would flash as well as the blinker. But only when indicating right. I noticed that when I had the parking lights on and indicated right that the parking light would blink. I wasn't blinking the correct filament in the bulb! Whereas when I indicated left with the parking lights on the parking filament stayed on and the blinker filament would flash. I pulled the blinker housing off the car. First thing I noticed was (first image) was that the bracket had come loose from the housing. On BMWs lots of stuff grounds to body, and there weren't any brown ground wires in the blinker housing. Looking at the bracket, it has to ground through the body screws that hold the housing to the car. To test, I ran a temporary ground from the bracket to the body and then indicated right. Blinker filament flashed and parking filament stayed off (parking lights off). With parking lights on, parking filament stayed lit and only the blinker filament flashed. Also the hazard light in the car stayed off. In the second image you see the brass ferrule that the bracket is supposed to be attached to. Loads of corrosion on it. After sanding it back to clean brass and sanding the mating surfaces of the bracket, I pushed the ferrule back through the bracket. A little tapping with a drift peened over enough of the ferrule to keep the bracket on. I even tested my old flasher relay. It blinked 2-3 times and quit. Oh well, that truly is broken. I'll keep it as a back up parts. Thought this might help anyone else with electrical problems. Not the first time a funky ground has been a problem.
  2. The choices are: 1. Switched: 16 preset curves. 2. Wired (USB) programmable 3. Bluetooth (Wireless) programmable. Questions: For those that purchased the switched version. 1. How has that worked for you? (I really haven't seen any complaints.) 2. Have you discovered any deficiencies? 3. Do you wish you purchased a programmable one? For those with the programmables: 1. Did you have to change or tweak the curves a lot? 2. Was the process difficult? and/or did it take a long time? For those like me that are afraid of opening the hood: Does one need to find a specialty shop to have one installed and dialed in? or could I drive up to Mintgrun's or Toby's house and chat (over some very expensive hand-delivered Cognac) and hope that they would demonstrate for me how one is installed and tuned? (Re-thinking this option... it may be cheaper to find a shop.....)
  3. She was starting just fine until the other day. Cranked slowly then nothing. Fired right up on jumper cables. Drove for a while then radio died, the idle fell to below 300 and it died at the a stop light. Jumped it again and it fired right up and ran 3 miles home but it got real rough just before home and the radio died again. Battery connections are clean and firm, alternator looks almost brand new. A multi meter on the battery with the engine off reads 11.8. When the car is jump started it first reads 11.5 then consistently falls. It was down to 8 when I turned the engine off. Sounds like the alternator is not charging the system but it looks brand new. What else should I check? Stuart
  4. Gentlemen, I haven't formally introduced myself yet. I bought a 76' a couple of months ago. My very own "Barn find" per say. It wasn't for sale nor was I shopping but I couldn't help but love the car so I left a note at the house, he called me a month later and the rest is history! To my amazement I had it running smoothly within two hours of tinkering! Just needed some fresh gas and timing tweaked. (hadn't run in two years) So I've probably put 250 miles on it.. and one day while tweaking the carb, a 12v coil wire that was hanging around (a last ditch effort from previous owner) must have touched the exhaust when hot and fried the sh*t out of the coil and relay and damn near started a fire at the fuse box!! It was close i tell ya. Anyways after a week of rewiring everything that melted, I got it back running! Then the next day, I go to crank and I got no spark. hmm. power to the coil check. points are clean on distributor check. Replaced the distributor condensor check. No what in the world am I missing?? I'm ready to get my resto on but like the girl to pull in and out of the garage on its own right! thanks for any help -Scott
  5. Considering this upgrade. Has anyone done this and if so is it just a matter of switching out the tailights or is there more to it?
  6. Hello Folks After a long search I can not seem to find my answer. I have a 74 base model that had an awesome working horn, but a faulty turn signal Hi-low switch. I was able to source and swap the turn signal lever that works great, but now the horn beeps whenever the key is turned on I have a Momo wheel and hub, I have tried to ensure that the ring is centered but as soon as the spring "button" extending from the hub comes in contact with the ring... BEEP! Anyone have a clue as to what I could be missing or doing wrong? Thank you in advance. Dan.
  7. I took my 1972 tii out of storage this morning. Earlier in the week I pulled the 2014 battery and brought it to a battery shop to have it charged and tested. The battery tested fine and took a full charge. Anyway, the car started on the first, longish crank and I took it for a one hour drive. Everything felt good. Once I got the car home I put on a steering wheel that I picked up over the winter. It’s an old, 3 – flat metal spoke wheel with a center horn button. I put the wheel on, turned the ignition key on to test the horn, it beeped and I completed the installation. When I went to start the car, I turned the key, the instrument lights came on, the fuel pump was pumping, but when I turned the key the rest of the way to engage the starter, everything went dead, no lights no nothing. I turned and jiggled the key numerous times with no sign of power. I checked the battery with the multi-meter and it read 12.9 volts. I tried the flashers – nothing. The battery terminals are tight by the way. I put the multi-meter on the fuse for the flashers and it read 12.9 volts, but the flashers do not work. I couldn’t believe it was the “new” steering wheel, but I put the old wheel back on anyway. Surprisingly, when I turned the key the instruments came on, the fuel pump started, but it went dead when I engaged the starter. Subsequent tries and key jiggles produced nothing. I tried jumping, but still nothing. The only thing I could think of was that the ignition switch is bad, but wouldn’t the flashers still work? Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Regards, Tony UPDATE: After sitting for about 45 minutes, I tried again and again the instrument lights came on, the fuel pump ran, but everything died and went black when the key was turned all the way to engage the starter. Something seems to reset after a time, but will only "light up" one time, before going black.
  8. I purchased my 1976 2002 back in December. It's my second 2002 and the only thing wrong with it mechanically is that it's had a very dim "L" light on the whole time. I just assumed it was putting out too few volts and I've been leaving it on a battery tender when I haven't been using it. It has antique plates so I only use it on the weekends and for short trips, though I have put about 500 miles on it in the past three winter months. Today I hooked it up to a voltmeter and it's actually putting out 15+ volts when running. I played around with some of the accessories (lights, wipers, fan...that's basically all I have to work with) and I did see a good correlation between the "l" light and the load. It would always look like the light was brighter under load...but in retrospect, that was just because I'd use more power in the dark. Anyways...rather than ordering a new alternator or chasing down some things I ordered a regulator for about $35 (shipped). Hope that works...if not I'll just install 16 rally lights and run them all the time to bleed off the extra power.
  9. Sputter ('74 tii) has been running great...until yesterday afternoon, when my drive home required three jump starts. I generally drive with headlights on, and MAY have left them on all day, but was distracted when it was dead as I was headed home. My experience has been that with a jump, the alternator gets enough charge going that the battery gets charged, and a drive home gets you back in business. However, it dropped dead at idle a couple times as I was heading home, and was able to get the rest of the way home after Jump 3 by holding the throttle at >2K at stop lights. Further, there wasn't enough juice to meaningfully honk the horn while driving. Also, the alternator light never came on, though, I am not 1000% sure that it was ever wired in. I took the battery (a one-year-old Optima yellow top) to Autozone, who deemed it D-E-D dead (and bought another one). Question I am assuming that either (i) the battery was defective, (ii) the alternator wasn't charging it and the battery drained, or (iii) the voltage regulator was not properly connected, and fried the battery. Supporting Case 3 is that there is a connection to the back of the alternator that falls off pretty regularly. As part of replacing the battery, I also replaced the female end of the wire to the terminal (so it wouldn't fall off again) and reattached. However, on closer examination of the back of a 320i alternator, there are a couple of places it could go, so: 1) Would this wire falling off cause the alternator to fry the battery? (see second picture, with dangling three hole plug) 2) To which connection do I reattach it? (I went with green, since I couldn't feel the blue one last night) Bonus question While the battery was out, I noticed what appeared to be bird droppings/battery corrosion greenish crud on the top of my oil filter. This is below and behind the KFish, but I couldn't really discern what was right above it (that might drip) or what the goo was. Any ideas?
  10. can any one advise me to a step by step wiring video for my 2002 rear lights (round) thanks DEZ
  11. Hey all, I went with a local company (that I found on Amazon.. ?!) when I was shopping a Wide band controller and display during my motor build. As an up an coming company, they didn't appear to be a large name in the game, but the kit and the company had some interesting characteristics. 1. Price. 2. A bare display that could be put almost anywhere, as I had three gauges slated for my console already. 3. Parts are sold individually. 4. Email support has been stellar. 5. SERIAL output for data logging or even a MegaSquirt/EFI conversion later.. After installing a display into my rearview mirror housing, I bought a second display (20$) to plug into the unused pins on the diagnostic plug! A simple switch will (eventually) let me choose to use the one under the hood for when I am tuning, and the one in the car for when I am using the butt dyno. I had fallen in love with the challenge of the mirror installation, and barely even looked at the possibilities of an install into the seat belt/EGR pod on the dash. But tonight I gave the pod a closer look. It's a shoe (horn) in. And will mount nicely with a little handi-work! ..Which makes for a clean custom installation with the wire runs, and installation labor time, as compared to the rearview mirror idea. So. After communicating with the guys at Wide-Band.com, and especially after the discovery tonight, I think there may be interest enough for a group buy. They have agreed on a price, if we have 5 or more participants. Unfortunately, I'm not going to reap the benefits, but I like the kit enough to promote it. http://wide-band.com/content/apsx-d1-wbo-controller-and-g1-led-display-full-kit ASPX-D1 Kit @ 107.99 shipped to your door. I will get the details on payment, etc. tomorrow. But for now, let's just start a list of interested parties, copy and paste style.. heck, maybe I am wrong about the idea! cheers!
  12. My delightful little forced-induction frankenstein, TOOTII, has a rather tender cold-start sequence. In addition to the MFI cold-start circuit, there is a button on the dash to inject extra fuel when starting cold, so that the engine starts a little quicker without cranking the starter for a long time. I didn't design or build this system, so I don't know the ins-and-outs as well as I'd like. One side-effect of this is cold-start system that, when the engine is slightly warm or if one injects fuel a second time (ie, the first injection didn't work and you don't know not to try again), we get a nice backfire out of cylinder 3 (third from the front) and the plastic intake runner flies off, requiring some brief repairs before I can get the car running again. In the year that I've owned the car, it has happened 3 times, so I haven't put a high priority on fixing the issue compared to other stuff. Two weeks ago, this happened to me on the first really warm day of the year, and There Have Been Problems ever since. At the time, I really struggled to get the 3rd cylinder intake runner back on; the rubber fittings and hose clamps were a pain to orient and my hands couldn't fit a lot of places where they needed to be. I managed to get it 'good enough' and eventually start the car. Here's what I noticed: The car took a long time to catch after cranking for a while. In the past, when this has happened, it's run normally as soon as everything is reattached. Initially, I only had 3 cylinders firing, but then I got back up to 4 after it ran for a bit. My entire ride home (carefully avoiding any boost at all), the idle would fly between 1000-2000 RPM, usually staying pretty high for periods. I decided that it was time to Do The Damn Thing and replace the plastic intake runners and terrible fittings with something a little nicer. My theory was that I was backfiring in cylinder 3 because of a leak in the runner or rubber seals, and that replacing the part with something nicer would be A Good Thing. I bought a set of these: https://www.racetep.com/automaker/bmw/tii-replacement-air-pipes.html, and replaced all of my runners last night. Upon starting the car, the idle sat really high, at around 2000RPM. Drat! My leak theory holds no water, as I just took the time to reattach everything nicely. I was hoping someone on here could give me some advice. I'm confused because: The high idling issue originated after the backfire. New intake runners didn't appear to help the idling problem. New intake runners did improve the firing of the engine; the starting process was relatively painless and I didn't notice a lost cylinder as I did when I started it to limp home. I believe the idle adjustment couldn't really have been affected by the intake runner blowing off. (Maybe I'm wrong) I just realized, as I wrote this, that I didn't reattach my breather cable before starting last night. Would it cause a high idle like that? If any of you Brilliant Wizards can give me some wild, Car Talk-esque speculation, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, -Griffin PS I wrote 72tii in the title because it is one of the engines with the plastic runners, but the rest of the car is a 74, if that makes a difference.
  13. When I started the car it was idling funny. Different than the normal cold start. It warmed up enough and sounded ok. I drive 500 feet (slowly in a parking lot) and then it dies when I give it gas upon entering the road. Won't start back up. Under the hood I see that the distributor cap had popped off. Not sure how that happened...seems really weird. The cap and distributor were dirty. It looks like there's oil sitting inside and grease inside the cap. Unfortunately I wiped it all away before I took any pictures, but there are pictures below anyway. I put it back on and the car starts, but dies after a few seconds. I read elsewhere on the FAQ that oil can get inside and cause problems, and to use some carb cleaner to clean it up (which I plan on doing when I get home). My question is, since this is a fancy Bluetooth dizzy did the dirt and oil destroy the electronics or whatever is inside? Any other helpful thoughts, suggestions, or wise cracks to entertain me as I wait for the tow truck?
  14. Hi All, I'm installing a set of fog lamps on my '74 e10 and i've found a fog switch that i intend to use in the bottom left dummy slot on the dash. The switch i have however doesn't have the silver inlay similar to the other switches, and I was wondering if anyone has used the dummy knob as an actual knob for this switch? Unfortunately the car is still having body work done and i don't have access to investigate myself, but from what i've read the dummy knob doesn't have a threaded insert similar to the other switches. Thanks in advance! Matt
  15. Anyone using the euro headlight city light as a daytime running light?
  16. I was watching Wheeler Dealers and Edd Chyna replaced a distributor with a new "electronic" one in an old Jag. I did a google search and BAM...this place makes one for the BMW M10. Any personal experience? Here is the link.... http://www.123ignitionusa.com Looks like it has completely tunable advance curves via USB and laptop as well as rock solid timing. I'm curious as to how it compares to a MSD ignition, or the stock with a Crane optical pickup or Pertronix.
  17. Hey guys. Last weekend on the long road to getting my 2 street legal I discovered the source of all of my electrical woes - the ignition switch! I had never been able to get the brake lights, wipers, or turn signals working reliably. They only seemed to work briefly while cranking the ignition from O to Fahrt. Somewhere along this point the turn signal light comes on and all accessories work fine. Nothing works once the key is in the start position and the car is running. Has anyone had a similar problem and perhaps can offer a solution? Should I attempt to rebuild the ignition or wire a toggle switch so that I can flick on accessories manually and not worry about a rebuild? This thread offers some help but doesn't address my problem in particular. Thanks for the help!
  18. So let me lay out some history with this problem. Just about a month ago, my battery kept draining. After some looking around, it turned out the seals on the alternator were broken (not allowing the alternator to turn/rotate the belt on startup because the alternator was so loose and moving around with the broken/squashed seals). I had already picked up a used alternator from another 2002, so was sort of at split roads — should I swap the seals into my original one and use the rest of the life it has or swap in the new used one (which I don't know the health of). I decided to swap seals, use original one meanwhile keeping the other one as a spare. Problem solved, we're running again. I recently purchased some new brighter & stronger headlights (since mine were giving out within time anyways). I went with the praised HELLA Vision Plus Halogen Conversion Headlamp 12V 60/55W (HB2) headlights. After receiving, simply connected the old wire back to the headlights and popped them back in. On my drive home from the coast the next day, my lights were working nicely and strongly (very impressed). Once I had arrived, turned off my engine. When I went to start it back up, dead. Nothing. I was sort of confused, since 60/55W is what can be used on my stock '76 without relays (from what I understand). Now, everytime I need to drive — need a jump start. I let it charge for a good 10 minutes off my other sedan, and without the lights on it seemed to startup next time if I made sure not to turn on my headlights. But if it's a quick jumpstart, it'll be dead next time you're starting it. I've been told it can't be the alternator instead an exposed wire, while some say it's the alternator going bad. What are my first steps? Can someone give me a direction of where I should get started? Sorry for the rant, hope someone can help me on here. Many thanks!..,
  19. So was checking out the 02 to make sure all the wiring was up to snuff and only found one issue. From looking at the forum it looks as if someone bypassed the the starter relay under the dash by connecting the black starter wire on the ignition (roughly 6 o'clock position) to the black wire with the white stripe. How it was done was rather hokey having a small gage yellow and brown wire connect the two. I'm wondering if i can just bypass the plug and connect the black starter wire to the black and white wire or if they still both need to go to the plug?
  20. I searched the forum and found a couple of threads on tii batteries but I can't seem to find a part number for a battery to use for 1972 tii with the factory hold down in the US - does it exist? I see that many people are using a 26R but I can't find one that will work with the factory hold down on the ends instead of the side. I really hate to have to make one but will if I have to. Thanks in advance!
  21. You may want to read this “Service Information” document that was posted by fellow members not long ago if your car still equipped with original ignition and contact breaker with original distributor dust cap. A replacement was called for it and the document explains why. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=107285 Original Replacement P.S., Much appreciated for sharing service information documents.
  22. I recently purchased a used Turn Signal / Parking Light for the driver's side front as the old one was cracked. After installing it, the light comes on solid when I flip on the the headlights. The passenger side does not. A minor annoyance, but one I'd like to address. My question is, should it? Both lights signal turns fine. I want to note that the passenger side does not come on when I pull on the switch for parking lights or headlights. So is that the real problem? I'm just looking for symmetry, here. Is this a potential grounding problem? Switch problem? Wiring problem? Thanks in advance for any input!
  23. I keep seeing these videos of guys running aftermarket alternators https://youtu.be/3FhvpExnHLw Does anyone have any experience in doing this? Or know where to find it? Cheers, jimi <iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3FhvpExnHLw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  24. Hey guys, Some of you may remember me from around 4 years ago. I joined the FAQ back then when I had purchased a rusty siennabraun 76 and spent some time here while I put her back together. I ended up selling that 76 to purchase a 64 Chevy Belair coupe. Drove that for 2 years then sold the Chevy to buy a 50 Ford Custom Deluxe. I drove that for 2 years and finally was able to bring it full circle by selling the Ford and getting another 76 2002. This one is in much better shape, and it took me fixing up and selling 3 cars to get here. I'll post a pic of the new 2002 below. Anyway, the reason I'm here today is because I have been trying to fix a few small issues that the car has. Today I removed the set of xenon lights that the prior owner had installed and put in some new hella h4s to try to make it more OG. In the process of going over the wiring I discovered a weird issue that I can't seem to figure out: The problem is that the rear drivers side yellow blinker bulb remains lit solid all the time when the lights are switched on. When you hit the blinker, the light is still solid yellow but pulses and the bulb just gets brighter with each "blink". If I'm recalling correctly this yellow bulb should always be out and only come on when you hit the blinker. My friend who is also into classic cars helped me go through it today with a voltage meter, he thinks there's probably a short somewhere between the turn signal stalk and the bulb assembly. This seems to be the blue wire with the brown stripe. The other weird thing is that the green light that comes on in the gauge cluster to let you know the blinkers are on is always glowing solid green whether the lights are on or not. It too pulses a brighter green when the blinkers are on, but remains solid green always. Do any of you gurus have any ideas what this could be? Shorted wire? Bad hazard relay? Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks for your time and you'll see me around a lot more now. This 76 is great and I'm here to stay


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