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Found 930 results

  1. Sputter ('74 tii) has been running great...until yesterday afternoon, when my drive home required three jump starts. I generally drive with headlights on, and MAY have left them on all day, but was distracted when it was dead as I was headed home. My experience has been that with a jump, the alternator gets enough charge going that the battery gets charged, and a drive home gets you back in business. However, it dropped dead at idle a couple times as I was heading home, and was able to get the rest of the way home after Jump 3 by holding the throttle at >2K at stop lights. Further, there wasn't enough juice to meaningfully honk the horn while driving. Also, the alternator light never came on, though, I am not 1000% sure that it was ever wired in. I took the battery (a one-year-old Optima yellow top) to Autozone, who deemed it D-E-D dead (and bought another one). Question I am assuming that either (i) the battery was defective, (ii) the alternator wasn't charging it and the battery drained, or (iii) the voltage regulator was not properly connected, and fried the battery. Supporting Case 3 is that there is a connection to the back of the alternator that falls off pretty regularly. As part of replacing the battery, I also replaced the female end of the wire to the terminal (so it wouldn't fall off again) and reattached. However, on closer examination of the back of a 320i alternator, there are a couple of places it could go, so: 1) Would this wire falling off cause the alternator to fry the battery? (see second picture, with dangling three hole plug) 2) To which connection do I reattach it? (I went with green, since I couldn't feel the blue one last night) Bonus question While the battery was out, I noticed what appeared to be bird droppings/battery corrosion greenish crud on the top of my oil filter. This is below and behind the KFish, but I couldn't really discern what was right above it (that might drip) or what the goo was. Any ideas?
  2. I purchased my 1976 2002 back in December. It's my second 2002 and the only thing wrong with it mechanically is that it's had a very dim "L" light on the whole time. I just assumed it was putting out too few volts and I've been leaving it on a battery tender when I haven't been using it. It has antique plates so I only use it on the weekends and for short trips, though I have put about 500 miles on it in the past three winter months. Today I hooked it up to a voltmeter and it's actually putting out 15+ volts when running. I played around with some of the accessories (lights, wipers, fan...that's basically all I have to work with) and I did see a good correlation between the "l" light and the load. It would always look like the light was brighter under load...but in retrospect, that was just because I'd use more power in the dark. Anyways...rather than ordering a new alternator or chasing down some things I ordered a regulator for about $35 (shipped). Hope that works...if not I'll just install 16 rally lights and run them all the time to bleed off the extra power.
  3. When I had my car apart, I had the wiring harness out. I decided to trace, verify continuity, identify, and label everything I could. That saved me lots later on when the harness was in the car. Once I got the harness in the car I noticed something odd with my blinkers. The right blinker blinked a little slower than the left. Originally i thought it had something to do with the used flasher relay I purchased to replace the old one that didn't work well (at all really). Then, when indicating right, the hazard light would flash as well as the blinker. But only when indicating right. I noticed that when I had the parking lights on and indicated right that the parking light would blink. I wasn't blinking the correct filament in the bulb! Whereas when I indicated left with the parking lights on the parking filament stayed on and the blinker filament would flash. I pulled the blinker housing off the car. First thing I noticed was (first image) was that the bracket had come loose from the housing. On BMWs lots of stuff grounds to body, and there weren't any brown ground wires in the blinker housing. Looking at the bracket, it has to ground through the body screws that hold the housing to the car. To test, I ran a temporary ground from the bracket to the body and then indicated right. Blinker filament flashed and parking filament stayed off (parking lights off). With parking lights on, parking filament stayed lit and only the blinker filament flashed. Also the hazard light in the car stayed off. In the second image you see the brass ferrule that the bracket is supposed to be attached to. Loads of corrosion on it. After sanding it back to clean brass and sanding the mating surfaces of the bracket, I pushed the ferrule back through the bracket. A little tapping with a drift peened over enough of the ferrule to keep the bracket on. I even tested my old flasher relay. It blinked 2-3 times and quit. Oh well, that truly is broken. I'll keep it as a back up parts. Thought this might help anyone else with electrical problems. Not the first time a funky ground has been a problem.
  4. The choices are: 1. Switched: 16 preset curves. 2. Wired (USB) programmable 3. Bluetooth (Wireless) programmable. Questions: For those that purchased the switched version. 1. How has that worked for you? (I really haven't seen any complaints.) 2. Have you discovered any deficiencies? 3. Do you wish you purchased a programmable one? For those with the programmables: 1. Did you have to change or tweak the curves a lot? 2. Was the process difficult? and/or did it take a long time? For those like me that are afraid of opening the hood: Does one need to find a specialty shop to have one installed and dialed in? or could I drive up to Mintgrun's or Toby's house and chat (over some very expensive hand-delivered Cognac) and hope that they would demonstrate for me how one is installed and tuned? (Re-thinking this option... it may be cheaper to find a shop.....)
  5. I am installing a Carter 504 electric fuel pump in my 02- not because I think it is a great idea, but I was laboring under the misconception that it would make my life easier when working on my dual sidedraft setup. I had been using Cannon manifolds, which positioned the front carb such that I had to remove the fuel pump whenever I wanted to remove the top cover of the carb (e.g., when checking float height). I decided to nuke the Cannon manifolds, primarily because they are designed in a way that prevents syncing the front to rear carbs. The rear manifold is canted up (I would guess to help it clear the brake booster) such that it is impossible to link the front and rear carbs. I tried to modify the linkage to make this work, but could not. Anyone with dual sidedrafts know how important it is to balance the carbs. IE came out with a single piece manifold and I bought one and am installing it. Now that I have installed the manifold (see pic), I find that there seems to be plenty of clearance to remove the top of the carb. Anyway, I am committed to install the electric pump. Here is my question. The docs that come with the pump say "DO NOT INSTALL IN THE TRUNK." Yet, in searching on the list, I see that many people have installed pumps in their trunks. I understand that the concern is that if there is a problem with the pump, a hose or there is car crash, etc. that would be bad thing. I am wondering if any of you or anyone you know has ever experience a problem because of a fuel pump installed in the trunk. Here
  6. Can someone tell me what this is for? It is on the drivers side under dash. I don't remember removing it from anything when I tore the car apart prior to paint. The female threads are corroded and don't appear to have been connected to anything for quite awhile
  7. Can anyone tell me what this was for. It had a period ceramic fuse in it. red wire goes through the firewall. Air pump? where would it terminate so I can remove the whole thing?
  8. So I've made some headway on my 68 1600 and it is now running with brakes! im chasing down a number of electrical issues to the best of my ability and my turn signals are one of them. Here is where I think I stand. 1. Emergency flashers work and all four corners flash so bulbs are good, wiring is good, grounds are good and flasher relay is working. 2. If I touch my test light to the green and yellow wire on the turn signal switch it pulses when the emergency flashers are on. 3. Tested continuity between relay, emergency flashers and turn signal switch for yellow/ green wire successfully. 4. The pic below shows the current switch wiring. Am I missing a green power wire to the p blade in the center that comes from ignition...? despite this I get nothing when I use the stalk turn signal. No sound from the relay and no lights. This makes me think the stalk is the issue but I would appreciate those with much more experience let me know if I have missed something. thanks, ben
  9. Sorry, I have a noob megasquirt/EDIS question about timing and can’t seem to find any info through searching; if you know of a link, please let me know. I’m getting my MSII/V3.0 engine mocked up with a 02Again 36-1 wheel, and can’t see how you guys are checking timing. I’ve marked the tooth that relates to TDC (see picture), but how are you checking advance? It’s my understanding that a dial-back timing light will not work with an EDIS setup due to the wasted spark. From http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm, “Note that most timing lights that let you set the timing with a dial and read the alignment of fixed TDC marks with the strobe will not work with EDIS. This is because these timing lights use the time between sparks to compute the engine speed and advance, but the EDIS wasted spark is giving sparks twice as often as the timing light expects for a given rpm. If you have a 'dial back' timing light, set the dial to zero and use a degreed damper or timing tape to view the advance.” Have you made a timing tab to read off of the original timing point? I’m contemplating machining a wheel that mounts to the front of the 02Again pulley that I would put a strip of MSD timing tape on. I’d love to see some pictures of what you guys running the 36-1 wheel have come up with. Thanks! Brendan
  10. I have replaced my carburetor with a with a weber that has an electric choke. Is there any recommended way to wire? I have a blue coil and the power is supplied directly from the fuse box with no resistor. Can I hook the choke to the + side of coil? Also, is there any benefit to running an additional wire from the starter to the coil to supply more voltage on startup?
  11. She was starting just fine until the other day. Cranked slowly then nothing. Fired right up on jumper cables. Drove for a while then radio died, the idle fell to below 300 and it died at the a stop light. Jumped it again and it fired right up and ran 3 miles home but it got real rough just before home and the radio died again. Battery connections are clean and firm, alternator looks almost brand new. A multi meter on the battery with the engine off reads 11.8. When the car is jump started it first reads 11.5 then consistently falls. It was down to 8 when I turned the engine off. Sounds like the alternator is not charging the system but it looks brand new. What else should I check? Stuart
  12. Gentlemen, I haven't formally introduced myself yet. I bought a 76' a couple of months ago. My very own "Barn find" per say. It wasn't for sale nor was I shopping but I couldn't help but love the car so I left a note at the house, he called me a month later and the rest is history! To my amazement I had it running smoothly within two hours of tinkering! Just needed some fresh gas and timing tweaked. (hadn't run in two years) So I've probably put 250 miles on it.. and one day while tweaking the carb, a 12v coil wire that was hanging around (a last ditch effort from previous owner) must have touched the exhaust when hot and fried the sh*t out of the coil and relay and damn near started a fire at the fuse box!! It was close i tell ya. Anyways after a week of rewiring everything that melted, I got it back running! Then the next day, I go to crank and I got no spark. hmm. power to the coil check. points are clean on distributor check. Replaced the distributor condensor check. No what in the world am I missing?? I'm ready to get my resto on but like the girl to pull in and out of the garage on its own right! thanks for any help -Scott
  13. Considering this upgrade. Has anyone done this and if so is it just a matter of switching out the tailights or is there more to it?
  14. Hello Folks After a long search I can not seem to find my answer. I have a 74 base model that had an awesome working horn, but a faulty turn signal Hi-low switch. I was able to source and swap the turn signal lever that works great, but now the horn beeps whenever the key is turned on I have a Momo wheel and hub, I have tried to ensure that the ring is centered but as soon as the spring "button" extending from the hub comes in contact with the ring... BEEP! Anyone have a clue as to what I could be missing or doing wrong? Thank you in advance. Dan.
  15. I took my 1972 tii out of storage this morning. Earlier in the week I pulled the 2014 battery and brought it to a battery shop to have it charged and tested. The battery tested fine and took a full charge. Anyway, the car started on the first, longish crank and I took it for a one hour drive. Everything felt good. Once I got the car home I put on a steering wheel that I picked up over the winter. It’s an old, 3 – flat metal spoke wheel with a center horn button. I put the wheel on, turned the ignition key on to test the horn, it beeped and I completed the installation. When I went to start the car, I turned the key, the instrument lights came on, the fuel pump was pumping, but when I turned the key the rest of the way to engage the starter, everything went dead, no lights no nothing. I turned and jiggled the key numerous times with no sign of power. I checked the battery with the multi-meter and it read 12.9 volts. I tried the flashers – nothing. The battery terminals are tight by the way. I put the multi-meter on the fuse for the flashers and it read 12.9 volts, but the flashers do not work. I couldn’t believe it was the “new” steering wheel, but I put the old wheel back on anyway. Surprisingly, when I turned the key the instruments came on, the fuel pump started, but it went dead when I engaged the starter. Subsequent tries and key jiggles produced nothing. I tried jumping, but still nothing. The only thing I could think of was that the ignition switch is bad, but wouldn’t the flashers still work? Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Regards, Tony UPDATE: After sitting for about 45 minutes, I tried again and again the instrument lights came on, the fuel pump ran, but everything died and went black when the key was turned all the way to engage the starter. Something seems to reset after a time, but will only "light up" one time, before going black.
  16. My delightful little forced-induction frankenstein, TOOTII, has a rather tender cold-start sequence. In addition to the MFI cold-start circuit, there is a button on the dash to inject extra fuel when starting cold, so that the engine starts a little quicker without cranking the starter for a long time. I didn't design or build this system, so I don't know the ins-and-outs as well as I'd like. One side-effect of this is cold-start system that, when the engine is slightly warm or if one injects fuel a second time (ie, the first injection didn't work and you don't know not to try again), we get a nice backfire out of cylinder 3 (third from the front) and the plastic intake runner flies off, requiring some brief repairs before I can get the car running again. In the year that I've owned the car, it has happened 3 times, so I haven't put a high priority on fixing the issue compared to other stuff. Two weeks ago, this happened to me on the first really warm day of the year, and There Have Been Problems ever since. At the time, I really struggled to get the 3rd cylinder intake runner back on; the rubber fittings and hose clamps were a pain to orient and my hands couldn't fit a lot of places where they needed to be. I managed to get it 'good enough' and eventually start the car. Here's what I noticed: The car took a long time to catch after cranking for a while. In the past, when this has happened, it's run normally as soon as everything is reattached. Initially, I only had 3 cylinders firing, but then I got back up to 4 after it ran for a bit. My entire ride home (carefully avoiding any boost at all), the idle would fly between 1000-2000 RPM, usually staying pretty high for periods. I decided that it was time to Do The Damn Thing and replace the plastic intake runners and terrible fittings with something a little nicer. My theory was that I was backfiring in cylinder 3 because of a leak in the runner or rubber seals, and that replacing the part with something nicer would be A Good Thing. I bought a set of these: https://www.racetep.com/automaker/bmw/tii-replacement-air-pipes.html, and replaced all of my runners last night. Upon starting the car, the idle sat really high, at around 2000RPM. Drat! My leak theory holds no water, as I just took the time to reattach everything nicely. I was hoping someone on here could give me some advice. I'm confused because: The high idling issue originated after the backfire. New intake runners didn't appear to help the idling problem. New intake runners did improve the firing of the engine; the starting process was relatively painless and I didn't notice a lost cylinder as I did when I started it to limp home. I believe the idle adjustment couldn't really have been affected by the intake runner blowing off. (Maybe I'm wrong) I just realized, as I wrote this, that I didn't reattach my breather cable before starting last night. Would it cause a high idle like that? If any of you Brilliant Wizards can give me some wild, Car Talk-esque speculation, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, -Griffin PS I wrote 72tii in the title because it is one of the engines with the plastic runners, but the rest of the car is a 74, if that makes a difference.
  17. When I started the car it was idling funny. Different than the normal cold start. It warmed up enough and sounded ok. I drive 500 feet (slowly in a parking lot) and then it dies when I give it gas upon entering the road. Won't start back up. Under the hood I see that the distributor cap had popped off. Not sure how that happened...seems really weird. The cap and distributor were dirty. It looks like there's oil sitting inside and grease inside the cap. Unfortunately I wiped it all away before I took any pictures, but there are pictures below anyway. I put it back on and the car starts, but dies after a few seconds. I read elsewhere on the FAQ that oil can get inside and cause problems, and to use some carb cleaner to clean it up (which I plan on doing when I get home). My question is, since this is a fancy Bluetooth dizzy did the dirt and oil destroy the electronics or whatever is inside? Any other helpful thoughts, suggestions, or wise cracks to entertain me as I wait for the tow truck?
  18. Hi All, I'm installing a set of fog lamps on my '74 e10 and i've found a fog switch that i intend to use in the bottom left dummy slot on the dash. The switch i have however doesn't have the silver inlay similar to the other switches, and I was wondering if anyone has used the dummy knob as an actual knob for this switch? Unfortunately the car is still having body work done and i don't have access to investigate myself, but from what i've read the dummy knob doesn't have a threaded insert similar to the other switches. Thanks in advance! Matt
  19. So I just recently upgraded to Hella H4s, and bought a relay harness off of eBay. My question is that it comes with a wire that is supposed to run to the battery, but since my battery is in the trunk, that won't exactly work. Where would be the best place to connect this?
  20. Is there an easy to read wiring diagram for a 1976 2002. It seems to me that when the previous owner replaced the motor it was easier to cut wiring than to reconnect it. I have no fans which is a nightmare when driving in the rain with the windows up, no interior lights, no tachometer etc…
  21. Hey, Removing the fuel pump and swapping over a dual weber setup. I was wondering if someone could tell me how to get the old mechanical pump studs and the push rod out so I sont break anything... Matthew
  22. Maybe I'm late to the party, but my 1974 manual (i confirmed it was printed in 1974) shows a completely different fuse layout than the sticker under my hood. I confirmed the hood sticker was correct, because my #5 was blown and the wipers didn't work which matches the hood. If #5 was blown according to the manual, then my blinker shouldn't have worked. I live in So Cal so if it hadn't rained last week, I may have never known! Anyway, just another reason not to trust everything you read, even if it came with your car. I have subsequently matched all of the fuses to the hood sticker to avoid any future problems.
  23. i went to install my new ireland distributor and it will not go in due to the upper o ring hanging up on the clamping side relief slot base. Just wants to drag the o ring out. Well oiled but will not go in. Anyone dealt with this before? Bill vancouver, bc 73 tii
  24. Well a few days ago my blinkers were working flawlessly and I decided to screw my center column back together. (When I got my car it was taken apart but still wired correctly). I screwed it into place didint touch any wiring but my blinkers won't work at all. But my hazards do. Should I un hook my hazards to see if that's te problem? -Nesset
  25. p- turn indicator switch red- 12v hot? assuming but why two red? one thin and thick whats the difference? two green wires- for what ignition wires? why two? 50- starter purple- accessories?
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