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  • If money can't buy happiness. At least it can buy 02s.
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  • 76 2002 build..
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  • Honeycomb Hideout's 2002 Build - 1976 A/T 2002 - 2.7i M20/G260 ETC.
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  • Condor's new 2002
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  • suspension?????
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  • Magoo's 1969 Project
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  • Car info requested please
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  • Hi i just joined, whats the best build for my 2002 '76
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  1. The choices are: 1. Switched: 16 preset curves. 2. Wired (USB) programmable 3. Bluetooth (Wireless) programmable. Questions: For those that purchased the switched version. 1. How has that worked for you? (I really haven't seen any complaints.) 2. Have you discovered any deficiencies? 3. Do you wish you purchased a programmable one? For those with the programmables: 1. Did you have to change or tweak the curves a lot? 2. Was the process difficult? and/or did it take a long time? For those like me that are afraid of opening the hood: Does one need to find a specialty shop to have one installed and dialed in? or could I drive up to Mintgrun's or Toby's house and chat (over some very expensive hand-delivered Cognac) and hope that they would demonstrate for me how one is installed and tuned? (Re-thinking this option... it may be cheaper to find a shop.....)
  2. I am installing a Carter 504 electric fuel pump in my 02- not because I think it is a great idea, but I was laboring under the misconception that it would make my life easier when working on my dual sidedraft setup. I had been using Cannon manifolds, which positioned the front carb such that I had to remove the fuel pump whenever I wanted to remove the top cover of the carb (e.g., when checking float height). I decided to nuke the Cannon manifolds, primarily because they are designed in a way that prevents syncing the front to rear carbs. The rear manifold is canted up (I would guess to help it clear the brake booster) such that it is impossible to link the front and rear carbs. I tried to modify the linkage to make this work, but could not. Anyone with dual sidedrafts know how important it is to balance the carbs. IE came out with a single piece manifold and I bought one and am installing it. Now that I have installed the manifold (see pic), I find that there seems to be plenty of clearance to remove the top of the carb. Anyway, I am committed to install the electric pump. Here is my question. The docs that come with the pump say "DO NOT INSTALL IN THE TRUNK." Yet, in searching on the list, I see that many people have installed pumps in their trunks. I understand that the concern is that if there is a problem with the pump, a hose or there is car crash, etc. that would be bad thing. I am wondering if any of you or anyone you know has ever experience a problem because of a fuel pump installed in the trunk. Here
  3. Can someone tell me what this is for? It is on the drivers side under dash. I don't remember removing it from anything when I tore the car apart prior to paint. The female threads are corroded and don't appear to have been connected to anything for quite awhile
  4. Can anyone tell me what this was for. It had a period ceramic fuse in it. red wire goes through the firewall. Air pump? where would it terminate so I can remove the whole thing?
  5. Sorry, I have a noob megasquirt/EDIS question about timing and can’t seem to find any info through searching; if you know of a link, please let me know. I’m getting my MSII/V3.0 engine mocked up with a 02Again 36-1 wheel, and can’t see how you guys are checking timing. I’ve marked the tooth that relates to TDC (see picture), but how are you checking advance? It’s my understanding that a dial-back timing light will not work with an EDIS setup due to the wasted spark. From http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm, “Note that most timing lights that let you set the timing with a dial and read the alignment of fixed TDC marks with the strobe will not work with EDIS. This is because these timing lights use the time between sparks to compute the engine speed and advance, but the EDIS wasted spark is giving sparks twice as often as the timing light expects for a given rpm. If you have a 'dial back' timing light, set the dial to zero and use a degreed damper or timing tape to view the advance.” Have you made a timing tab to read off of the original timing point? I’m contemplating machining a wheel that mounts to the front of the 02Again pulley that I would put a strip of MSD timing tape on. I’d love to see some pictures of what you guys running the 36-1 wheel have come up with. Thanks! Brendan
  6. Considering this upgrade. Has anyone done this and if so is it just a matter of switching out the tailights or is there more to it?
  7. Hello Folks After a long search I can not seem to find my answer. I have a 74 base model that had an awesome working horn, but a faulty turn signal Hi-low switch. I was able to source and swap the turn signal lever that works great, but now the horn beeps whenever the key is turned on I have a Momo wheel and hub, I have tried to ensure that the ring is centered but as soon as the spring "button" extending from the hub comes in contact with the ring... BEEP! Anyone have a clue as to what I could be missing or doing wrong? Thank you in advance. Dan.
  8. She was starting just fine until the other day. Cranked slowly then nothing. Fired right up on jumper cables. Drove for a while then radio died, the idle fell to below 300 and it died at the a stop light. Jumped it again and it fired right up and ran 3 miles home but it got real rough just before home and the radio died again. Battery connections are clean and firm, alternator looks almost brand new. A multi meter on the battery with the engine off reads 11.8. When the car is jump started it first reads 11.5 then consistently falls. It was down to 8 when I turned the engine off. Sounds like the alternator is not charging the system but it looks brand new. What else should I check? Stuart
  9. I purchased my 1976 2002 back in December. It's my second 2002 and the only thing wrong with it mechanically is that it's had a very dim "L" light on the whole time. I just assumed it was putting out too few volts and I've been leaving it on a battery tender when I haven't been using it. It has antique plates so I only use it on the weekends and for short trips, though I have put about 500 miles on it in the past three winter months. Today I hooked it up to a voltmeter and it's actually putting out 15+ volts when running. I played around with some of the accessories (lights, wipers, fan...that's basically all I have to work with) and I did see a good correlation between the "l" light and the load. It would always look like the light was brighter under load...but in retrospect, that was just because I'd use more power in the dark. Anyways...rather than ordering a new alternator or chasing down some things I ordered a regulator for about $35 (shipped). Hope that works...if not I'll just install 16 rally lights and run them all the time to bleed off the extra power.
  10. Gentlemen, I haven't formally introduced myself yet. I bought a 76' a couple of months ago. My very own "Barn find" per say. It wasn't for sale nor was I shopping but I couldn't help but love the car so I left a note at the house, he called me a month later and the rest is history! To my amazement I had it running smoothly within two hours of tinkering! Just needed some fresh gas and timing tweaked. (hadn't run in two years) So I've probably put 250 miles on it.. and one day while tweaking the carb, a 12v coil wire that was hanging around (a last ditch effort from previous owner) must have touched the exhaust when hot and fried the sh*t out of the coil and relay and damn near started a fire at the fuse box!! It was close i tell ya. Anyways after a week of rewiring everything that melted, I got it back running! Then the next day, I go to crank and I got no spark. hmm. power to the coil check. points are clean on distributor check. Replaced the distributor condensor check. No what in the world am I missing?? I'm ready to get my resto on but like the girl to pull in and out of the garage on its own right! thanks for any help -Scott
  11. I took my 1972 tii out of storage this morning. Earlier in the week I pulled the 2014 battery and brought it to a battery shop to have it charged and tested. The battery tested fine and took a full charge. Anyway, the car started on the first, longish crank and I took it for a one hour drive. Everything felt good. Once I got the car home I put on a steering wheel that I picked up over the winter. It’s an old, 3 – flat metal spoke wheel with a center horn button. I put the wheel on, turned the ignition key on to test the horn, it beeped and I completed the installation. When I went to start the car, I turned the key, the instrument lights came on, the fuel pump was pumping, but when I turned the key the rest of the way to engage the starter, everything went dead, no lights no nothing. I turned and jiggled the key numerous times with no sign of power. I checked the battery with the multi-meter and it read 12.9 volts. I tried the flashers – nothing. The battery terminals are tight by the way. I put the multi-meter on the fuse for the flashers and it read 12.9 volts, but the flashers do not work. I couldn’t believe it was the “new” steering wheel, but I put the old wheel back on anyway. Surprisingly, when I turned the key the instruments came on, the fuel pump started, but it went dead when I engaged the starter. Subsequent tries and key jiggles produced nothing. I tried jumping, but still nothing. The only thing I could think of was that the ignition switch is bad, but wouldn’t the flashers still work? Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Regards, Tony UPDATE: After sitting for about 45 minutes, I tried again and again the instrument lights came on, the fuel pump ran, but everything died and went black when the key was turned all the way to engage the starter. Something seems to reset after a time, but will only "light up" one time, before going black.
  12. Sputter ('74 tii) has been running great...until yesterday afternoon, when my drive home required three jump starts. I generally drive with headlights on, and MAY have left them on all day, but was distracted when it was dead as I was headed home. My experience has been that with a jump, the alternator gets enough charge going that the battery gets charged, and a drive home gets you back in business. However, it dropped dead at idle a couple times as I was heading home, and was able to get the rest of the way home after Jump 3 by holding the throttle at >2K at stop lights. Further, there wasn't enough juice to meaningfully honk the horn while driving. Also, the alternator light never came on, though, I am not 1000% sure that it was ever wired in. I took the battery (a one-year-old Optima yellow top) to Autozone, who deemed it D-E-D dead (and bought another one). Question I am assuming that either (i) the battery was defective, (ii) the alternator wasn't charging it and the battery drained, or (iii) the voltage regulator was not properly connected, and fried the battery. Supporting Case 3 is that there is a connection to the back of the alternator that falls off pretty regularly. As part of replacing the battery, I also replaced the female end of the wire to the terminal (so it wouldn't fall off again) and reattached. However, on closer examination of the back of a 320i alternator, there are a couple of places it could go, so: 1) Would this wire falling off cause the alternator to fry the battery? (see second picture, with dangling three hole plug) 2) To which connection do I reattach it? (I went with green, since I couldn't feel the blue one last night) Bonus question While the battery was out, I noticed what appeared to be bird droppings/battery corrosion greenish crud on the top of my oil filter. This is below and behind the KFish, but I couldn't really discern what was right above it (that might drip) or what the goo was. Any ideas?
  13. I'm sure others of your out there are in a similar boat as me, which is with several upgrades and additions installed on the '02, in addition to upgrading the alternator, we also need additional relays, fuses, and sundry wiring to get power to everything. 'Everything' in my case is a pretty long list, including Megasquirt ECU, injectors, EDIS module, fuel pump, electric cooling fan, and driving lights. I also like to try to keep my engine bay wiring as clean as possible, which has led me on the quest for the best way to add in these necessary parts in the cleanest and most efficient way possible. I'm now on my third iteration, but think I've finally nailed it! It's not all done yet, but I've got it all planned and will post progress as I go along. The secret weapon that I found was this perfect 6x relay and 6x fuse box on Amazon for only $16, including all of the connectors! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KJNPHJ Granted it's 5x 'normal' Bosch style relays plus one goofy Toyota style relay for I-don't-know-why, but for the price, I'm not really complaining. So, on to the wiring plan. Until now I resisted cutting off the original relay bracket, but to gain enough room and for a cleaner looking final installation, it's now time to do so. I don't think I'll ever miss it, I just don't like cutting original metal, so this is a rare exception for me. In a similar vein, I'm also going to retain as much of the original wiring where possible and only change what I feel is necessary (like adding a relay for the high beams) and this also helps for future troubleshooting, since the stock wiring diagram will still be 95% applicable, and I only need to keep track of the 5% changes I make. So, I'm posting my wiring diagram to share for any that are interested in also undertaking a similar endeavor. I actually need 7 relays in total, so the only one not included here is the one for the cooling fan. As you can see I do have the fuse for it here, and this just goes to terminal 30 of the fan relay located up in the nose of the car. The power for the driving lights is also supplied from the same 'hot only in run' relay, but they will be controlled by a duty cycle modulator to function as daytime running lights at ~50% power and then switch to full power when the high beams come on. I'll post a separate topic just on this when I get it fully drawn up. Please feel free to ask any questions if you're interested this or need other wiring advice and I'll be happy to help! New relay wiring.pdf -Carl
  14. OK, this is a discussion for round lights only. The 'square' lights have a different style bulb contact for rear lights. If you've ever changed a bulb in a round tail light, you may have come across a broken center bulb contact, or more precisely the steel spring layer that pushes the (brass?) electrical contact layer against the bulb. This stell / brass multilayer contact does two things: 1) supplies electrical current to the center terminal (lump of solder) and pushes the bulb pins against the housing for the ground path; and 2) holds the bulb in place so that the filament is located in the focus of the reflector dish, a parabola. The focus is the 'sweet spot' that takes the light radiated from the filament and collimates it (directs the light outwards in a beam) through the lens. Usually a broken contact is discovered when one of two things happens. (A) you are bending the center contact inwards for more force, and get a little too pushy, breaking it off yourself (oops!), or (B) your tail (brake, turn, or reverse) light is out, and no matter how far you bend the contact into the socket, it bends back out again as soon as you install the bulb, because the steel layer was previously broken by someone else. (Scheize!) Either way, you will likely have a light not working due to this problem. This is a bad thing. Without adequate force against the bulb, the + and -- contacts are weak and unreliable, so the lamp will not light. 2002 lights are dim enough when they are working, having one out is worse. Recently while repairing and upgrading a pair of lights for someone on the forum, I designed a very reliable repair method that will solve this problem without having to replace the light with another. Cheaper, too, and plug-in simple. No cutting wires, soldering, or other tasks. Just a bit of heat shrink tube, spade connectors, and voila! Permanently reliable lighting from a broken tail light. The repair is designed to replace the existing current paths for both (+ and --) and connects directly to the existing wiring harness in the car for maximum results with minimum fuss. It also holds the lamp in the socket so the filament sits in the focus and works as intended. It also allows the cover to fit as usual over the back of the light, and allows the lights to work normally OR can be used to double the tail light size and triple its output by incorporating the tail light upgrade I also designed. Works either way. Anyone out there with a broken tail light that needs this repair? I have two right now that need fixing, I'll be glad to help you or send a bit of advice... or if you have one in such a condition and want to have a good working spare, send it to me and we'll get it back in working order. Andy
  15. Need to find some funds.... I can make few tune box if there is still needs... 150$ usd shiped send me a personnal message if interested. Thanks.
  16. So here's today's question: When did cars get a " starter relay" that was it actually used as a starter relay and not as a transmission shift lock or a seat belt interlock? Let me be very clear about what I mean. I DON'T mean the ballast resistor bypass relay (listed in the wiring diagrams as "HT Relay") that sits in the right rear corner of the engine compartment on Modell 71 cars. That relay's only purpose is to bypass the ballast resistor during cranking and send a full 12.6V to the coil. I've looked at the wiring diagrams on The Tii Register (http://www.2002tii.org/kb/246). They appear to show that: Early (pre-Modell 71) cars have nothing called a "starter relay." The Modell 71 cars have something called a "starter relay," but it's listed as for automatics only. I assume that it's a relay for the shift interlock, preventing starting unless the car is in park. For 1974 and 1975, the diagrams show both a "starter relay (46)," as well as an "interlock seat belt control unit (107)" and actual seat switches. I assume these are the dreaded "car won't start unless there's a butt in the seat" system that everyone disconnected. For 1976, the diagram shows a "starter relay (46)," but goes back to listing it as for automatic only. So here's my question. When I think of a "starter relay," I think of something that makes it so the starter solenoid's current doesn't need to pass through the ignition switch and instead routes it through a relay as follows: --Turn the key to position 4 to "start" --Key position sends voltage to the control side (terminal 86) of a relay --85 is connected to ground, so it energizes the electromagnet in the relay, which pulls the switch closed, connecting 87 and 30 --87 goes to terminal 15 on the starter solenoid (which is, of course, another relay), energizing the solenoid, causing the starter motor to crank. Does the "starter relay" on any of these years ever work this way? Does it work this way part of the time -- does it only work this way when it's performing a transmission or seat belt interlock function? It's hard for me to tell from the wiring diagrams. I searched here and could only find people complaining about the "starter relay" when the problem was a seat belt interlock issue. --Rob
  17. My engine would not shut off today after turning the key off. After switching the key to different positions a few times it finally sputtered to a halt. Later shutoffs were normal although at one point it acted like it wanted to stay running and then shut down. Switch operation for starting is normal. I had the switch out last year for lubrication and I am thinking it is developing a short. Any suggested fixes? Or just buy a new switch?
  18. Hey guys, I have a tii that came with VDO water temp and oil pressure gauges mounted in the center console. The only issue is that the water temp sender for this extra gauge is mounted where the water temp sender for the cluster would go. Which means My temp gauge in the cluster is always dead with no signal, but the VDO gauge works perfectly. I would like to remedy this by having them both work, but I don't see a solution that isn't invasive. I don't want to run the VDO gauge sender from a coolant hose adapter. Is there a better location to mount the VDO sender that still looks stock, or at least leaves the engine bay clean looking? Thanks, Ryan
  19. My tii needed a battery. Tiis take a small battery due to the master cylinder being further forward because of the big brake booster. Most people use a Group 26R. They're sometimes not easy to find, and when you do, they're about $100. Turns out Walmart sells, as part of their ValuePower battery line, a Group 26R battery for $49. The battery is stamped as being made by Johnson Controls, one of the big three domestic battery manufacturers. It has a one-year guarantee, which is a little short, but, hey, $49. http://www.walmart.com/ip/VP-26R-Battery/47308800 I had to call six Walmarts before I found one that had them in stock. They have a few other sizes as well, though not a full selection; you can see them online if you click on ValuePower. Looks like 24, 26, 26R, 35, 65, 75, and 78. . I grabbed a Group 24 for the 635CSi, also $49. --Rob
  20. Many of you know me for my work with headlights, tail light restoration and upgrades. Well, I don't want to leave 'Neue Klasse' folks out in the dark, the cold, wherever. For a short while (before he broke and sold it), my brother had an 1800, a funky endearing little car, but I never did get to drive it. If you have to know, he separated the drive shaft in the 1800 by dumping the clutch in a failed attempt at a burnout... with several passengers to witness. He went on to break his Moto Guzzi, his leg, even an Allis Chalmers bull dozer. My brother had a peculiar talent for finding the mechanical limits of things, and then exceeding them. I recently have completed some work on E9 coupes- 2000, 2500, 3.0CSi, etc, a Bavaria 3.0Si, and have some 2002 stuff coming from a dealer in LA, with a possible partnership in the works. I thought, why not the other oldsters, the NK stuff? Hey, I'm just trying to help, and nobody needs their vintage Bimmer to run with dim lights... front or rear. As virtually all of my work so far has been 12V stuff, I am looking forward with a little trepidation to the day some one asks about 6V headlight or tail light bulbs. My first decent set of headlights - Marchal Amplilux, with separate lamps and reflectors for high and low beams - had to run with 6V H1 and H3 lamps! It was in a 1962 VW Typ 1, sorry, but I do not consider it my first car... remember their ad campaign, "It's not a car, it's a Volkswagon." My first REAL car was a 1972 2002 #2582401, retired locally with over 500K. My second car and DD is an 86 E28 535i, currently up around 397K.Both are running with modified rear lights - three tails and two brakes each side, plus center brake light. With these lights, the idiots stayed BACK. Before the lights, the 2002 was totaled 5 times. I just kept bending it straight and driving it! I love German steel. Anyway, I just wanted to put this out there and see if there is anything I can do to help the NK crowd. Perhaps someone needs to restore their lighting equipment as part of a restoration project, even if it's only to clean them up and make them shiny on the INSIDE, where it really counts, so folks following you will keep their distance. Let me know what kind of help you need, and feel free to ask me anything. Thanks for the opportunity to help you keep these classics on the road. Andy
  21. hi my wiring diagram has three green wires going to 15 and one green wire going to P. As you can see in photo, I have 2 green combined in one connection that is have going to one of the 15 tabs. Does the other two green wire bundle go to P or the other tab available at 15? thanks much! chris
  22. Hi, I've seen a fair number of issues posted that relate to the fuse boxes in our (decidedly old) cars. If there existed a replacement unit that dropped into the same mounting position and fit the same way but had modern Mini fuses, would folks be interested? Been toying with doing this but it isn't worth the effort if it won't really benefit our community of '02's. My car is a '74 so that's the only one I'm familiar with. Are all 12-fuse boxes the same? Do the 6-fuse units fit physically the same way into the left fender? Would you like to see additional fuses, space permitting? It occurs to me that having a couple of ignition switched lines may be pretty useful, such as for powering an ECU or other relay-switched accessory. Kindly let me know your thoughts on this. Thanks.
  23. I've cleaned the resistor and even though it had a lot of surface rust, its now cleaned. The springs are very solid but they get extremely hot (almost red) on bench test. I realise that would scale down once the fan is blowing air but my main issue is that the negative (-) brass tip has broken off. I replaced it with another new brass spade which is not as solid as the original and I'm worried that the heat would eventually make it wobbly or destroyed. Not sure if this kind of repair considered a proper job! Should I keep this or look into other alternatives? I found too many out there including the Dorman 973-430 but this model is too close to the plastic cover once the heater box is sealed. It also doesn't have a cutoff relay as the stock bmw resistor (power will bypass the spring to no resistance if it gets too hot). I found Duralast which has similar option. I don't have any technical info an either of these resistors but it seems that majority were made to handle up to 30W. Should I try to fix the current resistor by installing more solid brass spade or buy a new alternative. (not the original BMW, my money printing machine temporarily is out of ink). Any feedback is appreciated.
  24. Hey guys. Last weekend on the long road to getting my 2 street legal I discovered the source of all of my electrical woes - the ignition switch! I had never been able to get the brake lights, wipers, or turn signals working reliably. They only seemed to work briefly while cranking the ignition from O to Fahrt. Somewhere along this point the turn signal light comes on and all accessories work fine. Nothing works once the key is in the start position and the car is running. Has anyone had a similar problem and perhaps can offer a solution? Should I attempt to rebuild the ignition or wire a toggle switch so that I can flick on accessories manually and not worry about a rebuild? This thread offers some help but doesn't address my problem in particular. Thanks for the help!
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