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02Coastie

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  1. I would definitely agree with you. Unfortunately after leaving the can attached for nearly 30min, it only took about 1/3 a can. This repeated when I swapped out the expansion valves and tried again. I'm on deployment now, but when I get home I'll try a new compressor (I have to buy another one anyway for the CS). I'll definitely report back.
  2. I hadn't thought about this, and the short answer is no. All my other vehicles are R134A and I'm under the impression you don't want to mix gauges due to cross-contamination issues. Having said that, I did let the car run for a good 15-20min with the R12 can hooked up the first round. After that time, virtually no more refrigerant was taken in and the pressures remained the same. Additionally there was not even a little cooling at the evaporator and the condenser felt normal. I can't think of any other scenario, other than a bad compressor that would lead to this condition. From what I can tell, something is preventing the suction portion of the compressor from functioning.
  3. Thanks to both of your for the thoughts. I was able to swap in the original expansion valve. While I have no way of testing it, it did allow me to blow a small amount of air through. After putting a small amount of r12 back isn’t he system, I got the same results. It seems like the compressor is moving *some* refrigerant, but not nearly enough to build proper pressures. I’ve reached out to the vendor for a warranty replacement. We’ll see how that process goes.
  4. Thanks in part to the @thehackmechanic's awesome book, I finally put together all the required items to install a used clardy A/C system in my '76. Everything with the exception of the evaporator is new, including a Sanden SD508 (thanks @02hobiedave!), new parallel condenser, receiver/drier, and a new expansion valve. I have some NOS R12 cans for the system. After ensuring it held vacuum overnight, I went to begin charging it. Unfortunately, a problem that I need some help troubleshooting. After taking in about half a can (~6oz), the pressures are not making sense. My low side is running around 80, and the high is around 100 (80deg day). I am not seeing the normal drop in low pressure once it starts taking in the refrigerant and it's clearly not taking any more. I can hear refrigerant moving through the expansion valve and see bubbles in my receiver sight glass. The only two items I can think of are either the compressor or the expansion valve. While both are new, it's certainly possible they are defective. For the compressor, it engages normally, makes no weird noises, and I can turn it with a wrench easily. Everything I've read about SD508s is that they are CW rotation (which it is doing). Is it possible it's somehow reverse rotation? For the expansion valve, is there any way to test it without removing it from the system? I still have the original one, but prophylactically replaced it. Maybe I shouldn't have! Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated! (And yes, if I have to open it back up, I'll take it to the local AC shop to evacuate it properly)
  5. I’ll take some pictures in the next day or two. I don’t recall being unable to get an acceptable fit within the adjustments.
  6. This looks like an elegant solution. Looking forward to pricing/availability.
  7. The one I installed above was a BGA. I didn’t take any pictures, but I do still have the E21 pick up. As to whether it’s rebuilt or a new casting, the pickup shows no BMW markings or pn’s. I’m not sure if the factory part would have them or not though. I’ve got about 500 miles on it now, including a really cold morning (for Florida). No issues and the pressure is rock steady.
  8. Just installed one in my '76 with a rebuilt engine. After swapping the pickups everything bolted on with no issue. However, I did have to use approximately 5 shims to get the chain tension correct. I assume they must shave the mating surface as part of the rebuild process. Anyway, from a performance standpoint it works perfectly. Pressure is super smooth and stabilized once the relief opens, holding approx 65psi at anything over 2krpm. Hot idle with 20w-50 is right around 30psi. Cold starts run up to about 80-90. I also know my bearings are on the looser side of spec for what it's worth. I bought mine off of eBay.
  9. It’s time to get my 76 02 and 74 CS new paint jobs. For the 02 I’m envisioning a daily driver level respray to correct a cheesy budget maaco job by the PO. Limited to no bodywork and no rust repair needed. Does anyone know of a decent painter in central Florida? I plan to pull all the trim and deliver a glass out body, so prior 02 experience is not necessarily required. Thanks!
  10. Will you ship? I'd think if you sister the seats they'd fit into a reasonable size box.
  11. Healey, I'm in Alameda. The car is in the middle of a Microsquirt conversion and isn't drivable, but you're welcome to swing by. I'm running a 325I TB w/02Again adapter plate.
  12. Just note that his tune is AN based versus SD. I'm not sure how well the tables translate. I ended up using the auto-generated one (using his dyno #'s since we have similar setups). Also, 02 Again has this guide which includes base maps: http://www.02again.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Megasquirt_presentation.pdf
  13. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the spacer is too long if the sway bar is not parallel with the ground. If it's too long, the ends of the bar will be pointing away from the road; too short, they'll point towards it. Hope that helps!
  14. If you want to really see something, look up Blue Origin. They're using 3D printing to make rocket engines. Let me say that again, ROCKET ENGINES. It's amazing how far that technology has come so quickly.
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