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About 02Coastie

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  1. Healey, I'm in Alameda. The car is in the middle of a Microsquirt conversion and isn't drivable, but you're welcome to swing by. I'm running a 325I TB w/02Again adapter plate.
  2. Just note that his tune is AN based versus SD. I'm not sure how well the tables translate. I ended up using the auto-generated one (using his dyno #'s since we have similar setups). Also, 02 Again has this guide which includes base maps: http://www.02again.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Megasquirt_presentation.pdf
  3. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the spacer is too long if the sway bar is not parallel with the ground. If it's too long, the ends of the bar will be pointing away from the road; too short, they'll point towards it. Hope that helps!
  4. If you want to really see something, look up Blue Origin. They're using 3D printing to make rocket engines. Let me say that again, ROCKET ENGINES. It's amazing how far that technology has come so quickly.
  5. Like the others, 1 for stock, 1 for EFI, and 1 for a VDO sensor. However, I only have one VDO temp gauge in my console, so I made sure the water temp sensor and oil temp sensor are the same range (0-300F if I remember correctly). I normally drive with it hooked up to Oil since I have a good idea how my stock gauge reads. One of these days I'll put in a switch so I can go back and forth on demand.
  6. 02Coastie


  7. I'm going to be a slight contrarian here. Having recently reacquired my dad's old coupe, I can confirm that they're wonderful driving cars. What everybody says about rust however is absolutely true. If you can see rust in the fenders and in the rockers, it's likely pretty substantial. We're talking $30,000-$40,000 dollars worth of work if you send it to a shop to properly repair (possibly more). Having said that, mechanically they're very reliable and very easy to work on. If the car is drivable and safe to be on the road, I'd say go for it. Just realize that at some point you're going to have to part it out. From what you describe, there's easily 5 to 6000 worth of parts on there. For now just enjoy driving it and avoid putting a ton of money into it. Post some pictures over on the coupe forum, we'll help you get a sense of fair value. 12,000 is a lot if there's terminal rust.
  8. After moving from a fixed Craftsman light to a dial-adjustable unit from Harbor Freight (never again), I finally found a great deal on a used MATCO adjustable/digital light (Ebay: $50). I will never go back! Having the RPM display and adjustability is fantastic and well worth spending a little more. Having said that, once you set the 123, you shouldn't really *need* the light again. I'd recommend either spending enough to get a known good light or just borrow someone's for the initial setup.
  9. Jim where was that made? Any chance more are available?
  10. Exactly. I'm running an E30 EFI manifold. The brake booster gets its vacuum from a port on the NR3 intake runner. The booster was filled with fluid due to a failed master cylinder that leaked when I hooked up my pressure bleeder.
  11. I did not check the sump for oil quantity. Based on the amount, I don't think I would have been able to measure out the change. The master cylinder reservoir was only a hair low, leading me to second guess my theory when I first got back to the car. However, when I unbolted the master cylinder, a TON of fluid came out. I wouldn't be surprised if the booster was nearly full. Clearly the pressure bleeder filled the booster to capacity past the bad seals. No indications of brake issues up to this point, but the master cylinder appears original, and the car has been stationary for almost 2.5 years.
  12. And Toby for the win! Well actually Terry Tinney and his network of gurus figured it out earlier this morning. I just got back to the shop and unbolted the master cylinder. See the attached video for the results. While I am annoyed that I didn't take a breath to think things through, I honestly don't know if I would have figured it out without assistance. The brake fluid was a dead ringer for engine oil, especially after passing through half the exhaust system. However, it makes complete sense once I think through the steps that occurred. Right before I pulled out to take it for a test drive, I pumped the brakes a number of times. I remember thinking it was weird since I bled the brakes just a few days prior (with a pressure bleeder). Obviously the pressure bleeder loaded up the booster. Once I pumped the brakes, it delivered a huge shot of fluid into the engine and I got the smoke. I'm relieved that it isn't something more sinister. Once I R&R the master cylinder we should be back on the road. Thanks again to everyone's assistance with this mystery. IMG_5521.MOV
  13. What intake are you running? - E30 318 EFI. The breather was not hooked up. Did you remember to put rings on the #3 piston? - Yes :-) Did you do a compression test before you took it apart? - No, I should have. Are you sure it is oil? if the car has been sitting for a long time it might just have been condensation built up in the exhaust that finally got warm enough to come out of the pipe. - Definitely oil. If you look at the header pic, you can see that it's just NR3 that has oil in it. The plug had oil on it as well. If Terry Tinney put the head together I would start looking everywhere else FIRST. - I don't disagree. I spoke with him already and I'm bringing the head to him to check. Like me, he's just as dumbfounded as I am. But in the end, with that quantity of oil, it seems like it's either pressurized or somehow the oil in head valley was pulled into the cylinder ala slipping valve guide. A long shot for sure, but I don't know how else it could have come in. The only other way I could see would be up from the piston, but with no visible scoring and at least the top ring intact, I don't see that quantity getting in with such immediacy. It might burn some, but dumping that much that quickly points to something else I think.
  14. Unfortunately I think Ray may be the winner. Valve guides look stable so it has to be a crack. NR3 was welded so I'm guessing the repair didn't hold. Back to the head doctor for proper diagnosis.
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