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  1. Ok, I know that 13" tires have been discussed to death on the forum, and I have searched, but for some reason I can't post in the more relevant threads. I also need some more specific info, so here it goes. I have a set of 13x6 Borranis that need tires. I was originally thinking that I would get the Federal 595s in 185/60/13, but they are back ordered, and I just discovered how much shorter they are than the original tires. My car is not a daily driver and I do my fair share of hoonin' in it, so I would rather not get all seasons. That leaves me with a choice of RA-1s or R888s in 205/60/13. My car is lowered (not slammed) on Ground Control coilovers and camber plates, set to about -2 degrees. I am currently running 350/400 springs and ST sways. My current wheels are BBS RMs 15x7 ET25 with a 3mm spacer and 15x7.5 ET19 both with 195/45/15 tires. Looks like the previous owner did a mild roll on the rear fenders, but I do rub on the bigger bumps in the front and rear. Finally to my question...does anyone run a similar setup with 205/60s? Do you think I'll rub with the 205s? I'd rather not pull the fenders. The specs show that they're 1/2" wider and .7" taller than the 195s, but they should sit further into the wheel well with the ET30 vs. my current ET22/19. In fact, the wheel offset calculator shows that they'll sit 4.7mm further from the strut and that the outer portion will poke out 20.7mm less than what I have now.
  2. Pardon me for brining up a tired (arrgghh) subject, but I want to make sure I have the right combo before buying wheels and tires.I have studied the wheel/tire fitment threads and articles on the FAQ and Ireland, but can't find anything definitive for Turbo flares. I will be running an M42 on my '75 Mintgrun sunroof restomod. Motor is stock, will be for a while, then will be pulled and brought up to Metric Mechanic 170hp configuration (unless I can afford the 200hp bits). The full Ireland Stage 1 suspension with HD Bilsteins, ST bars, all new poly bushings is done. Ditto the IE front big brake kit with 320i rear drums. The bodywork is in progress, and I am ready to mount the flares and cut the arches. Car will have a 4 point bar, has an LSD (3.64, need to find a 3.90 LSD and do a trade, perhaps?). I will be able to fit a wider rear wheel in the spare tire well as I Franken-welded an E36 spare tire well in to replace the swiss cheesed original. It seems that the wheel size for the flares is either 15x7 et 15-20, or 15x8 et0. I think I can either run the same at all four corners or stagger front and rear with the 15x7/15x8 combo. The goal is more capability than look, driving mainly on very twisty mountain roads and an occasional track day. So, any input on wheel and tire size to maximize grip, fill out those flares nicely, and still be driveable on the street with 140-170 hp? Thanks in advance, and see you at the Vintage ( I will probably be there in the "wedding gift" Kastanienrot e12 528i.) Greg J Just off the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia '75 Mintgrun "Wrigley" project '69, '70, and '76 parts cars in yard '80 528i "Bob" Wrangler, WRX, Triumph Bonneville T100 Understanding wife
  3. (Photo from forum member dlhoovler. Thank you, Dave) These leather-rimmed, metal-spoked wheels, also known as “sport wheels,” are best known here in the U.S. from their appearance on many 1970 model year '02s, the result — as the story goes — of a fire or labor strike at a steering wheel factory. I know no more. I’m largely after a tidbit today! What IS the metal finish on the 3 small trim pieces, applied where the spokes meet the rim (bottom photo below)? I have two of these rims -- in "core" condition -- and both have dull, pitted trim pieces. I don't want to restore the rims without restoring these trim pieces. None of my 6 trim pieces exhibits an actual "brushed" appearance but they are all dull and pitted, and thus may not reveal an accurate image of their original finish. How much of the present finish is due to deterioration and how much represents the original finish? Of less pressing importance, is the factory fire or strike the whole story behind these rims? My wheels are clearly dated '71 and '72. Were they simply replacement wheels for '70 cars with bad wheels? It seems to me that the (imitation) leather rims are a clear upgrade over the more common hard-plastic rims. But I don't believe you could get one of these as a factory option on a U.S. car (Hoffman Motors' importing process wouldn't facilitate it) -- apart from the '70 cars that just "came" with them. Could they have been a dealer accessory in the U.S? Outside the U.S., many, but not all, ti’s — both 1600ti’s and 2002ti’s — appear to have received Euro versions of this wheel, perhaps from the factory. Was it standard equipment at times for tii’s? Was it a factory option only on ti’s, and possibly a dealer accessory for others? I don’t have answers, only questions! Here’s my entirely conjectural timeline: 1. "Euro" leather-rimmed steering wheel with cut-outs is introduced as standard equipment (ti’s only), a factory option, and/or a dealer xaccessory for the European market, coincident with the introduction of the 1600ti in late 1967. Note, I have not yet seen a U.S. version of the wheel dated before 1970. 2. Fast forward to 1970: “Oh s**t: the steering wheel factory burned down, er... the steering wheel factory is on strike!" "No problem: we can install leather-rimmed wheels temporarily," 3. "Oh s**t: U.S. DOT says our European leather-rimmed wheels don't meet their requirements because of the spoke perforations!" "No problem: make them comply: don’t stamp out the ovals, indent them!" 4. "U.S." version of leather-rimmed wheel with indentations is introduced to solve the supply issue: ca. 1970. 5. Smart BMW business-school type says, "Hey, now that these things are U.S. legal, let's sell all we can through the dealer network." Later becomes CEO. I have examples of the U.S. version sport wheel dated 1971 and 1972. Frankly, U.S. versions are not particularly rare in the U.S. And I can’t believe all these wheels were pulled off 1970-model ‘02’s. If you don’t like my history, please give me more details, more dates, and we’ll modify it! Thanks and regards, Steve
  4. Hey everybody! So I've been looking for a set of steel wheels in 15x6" or 15x7" (4x100 obviously) with an offset between 18-33. I saw this beautiful 02 (kudos to its owner) pop up on my Instagram feed and I just love the wheels on this car! So now I'm looking for a similar set for my own 74' project. I can tell the wheels in this photo have a pretty low offset, I'm guessing between 10 and 20, so it looks like the owner had to do some slight fender rolling which I am perfectly ok with. So, any suggestions on what steel wheels or where I can get some, besides e30 steelies (which are 14")??? Thanks All!
  5. Hi, I have a set of E30 basketweave's for my 76' 02. I would like to replace the stock center cap hubs (on the left) with another center cap, like the original steelies had(on the right), and keep the lugs exposed. It was suggested a center cap from a E12 5 series might work. Does anyone have any info? Thanks
  6. I'm going for an original/vintage look and would like to restore my wheels and hubcaps so they look shiny and new (or better than new ). I came across this post which mentioned a few things specific to restoring the steel wheels. It sounds pretty straight forward: sand/blast, prime with Rustoleum "rusty metal" primer (or maybe this one after sanding?), then Krylon "dull aluminum" for a finish coat. I also came across this Eastwood Silver Argent paint which might be even better. However, restoring hubcaps is still a mystery to me. As far as I can tell, my hubcaps were never chromed. Or maybe they are just dull and faded. Maybe they are stainless steel. They are dented and will need to be smoothed out in order to look original. Then there's the BMW logo in the center... So how can I restore them on the cheap, but still look original? Any thoughts and tips related to this topic would be helpful, but reiterate, I'm going for an "original shiny hubcap" look.
  7. Will a 185/70/13 tire,mounted on a stock rim, fit within the spare tire well, with the cover board fitting correctly? thanks Henry
  8. Greetings all! I'm currently going through the process of recreating the Enkei Apache V center cap in preparation for 3D printing replacements. Does anyone out there have an Enkei Apache V center cap that has the tangs intact? The one center cap I have does not currently have them in place and I'd like to know just how far the extend down into the center bore of the hub face. It seems that the 2002 front hub would prevent these tangs from going any deeper than 1.052" but the rears can extend nearly 1.562". Were they meant to extend to the point where they snap to the backside of the wheel face or where they merely a resistance fit? I've included some photos of the prelim model and the existing center cap. I'll be eliminating the "Enkei" Script from the print to prepare a flat surface for the application of 50mm sticky back roundels. EDIT: I've attached a photo of the wheels in questions.
  9. As you may know i am successfully reproducing center center caps for Borrani wheels and Alpina wheels for almost a year. Here is my FS topic of my caps: From 02forum.co.uk i received two inquiries for making caps for TISA models: For making these i have to make new mold for these caps. This takes time and it is not cheap. This is my problem of course but to do this i want to know if there will be interest about this model. So i want to ask you if somebody is interested in set of this model hub caps. Set of 4 caps comes chrome plated and polished with decals (i hope i will be able to make 3D logo like on the pictures, not just stickers) for the same price as the other models $189 worldwide shipped. Please let me know, for now 2 people are interested.
  10. Well I have suddenly become inundated with Speedline Mistral wheels in the course of building a 288 GTO. The problem is, the wheels I got with the car have 5x120 bolt pattern, which does not compute in the Ferrari world. So can someone tell me if there are any BMW models that came with these, or are commonly fitted with these wheels, and if so how wide? (I have a set of 13"x17"rears, a set of 14" x 18" rears with 335 tyres mounted, and a set of 9"x17" fronts, these being the actual measurements across the wheels). I suppose there is also the question of backspacing but that is an added complexity I will deal with down the road.
  11. My oldest son is taking over the Agave project. He moved away from the stock rims to a traditional 13x5.5 et18 BBS rim. He made the change because his brother kept the stock set up for his Inka. It's interesting how a change in rims makes such a difference in the overall look of the car: Before: After: The Inka:
  12. Bought a set 4 years ago and having trouble locating them again. Can you still get these? Stuart
  13. I'm presently running 13" Cosmo wheels on my '73 tii. Car was lowered by PO by cutting one coil off each spring. I'm replacing them right now with Ireland Stage 1 springs, so the ride height should end up about the same. I need to buy new tires now, and I've noticed that the choices for 13" tires are even more limited now than he last time I replaced mine a few years ago. It so happens that I have an opportunity to pick up a set of 14" Alpina replicas (OZ), so I'm considering doing that and going with a slightly lower profile tire that will end up approximately the same height as my current setup. But in looking around for 14" tires, it seems that they are now also becoming somewhat limited in choices. So... the dillema is... do I make the jump to 15" wheels (probably meaning and even LOWER profile tire) or do I go with the 14" Alpinas and accept that the tire choices may be a little more limited. I'm setting the car up to be a reliable, easy driver, so comfort is a factor. I don't drive it much and won't be tracking it at all, mostly just long weekend drives. If you were me, would you go with the 14's or the 15's, and why? Appreciate any insights. Thanks,
  14. cant find any at local stores for now. 165 80 13 seems to be more and more obsolete....
  15. Any one have a close up picture of a 195/50 15 on a 15x7 rim? I want to see if it looks stretched? Than ks in advance for any pictures sent. Stuart
  16. I’ve been searching for 4 – original, steel wheels for my ’72 tii and ended up finding 5 wheels, all from the same person. I bought them sight unseen. The good news is that all 5 wheels are from the same manufacturer, Kronprinz AND they all have the same date, 2/72. The bad news is that they were badly pitted, as you can see in the first couple of photos. I decided to try JB Weld to fill the pitted areas. The first step was to have them media blasted to get rid of the rust and provide a clean, dry surface to apply the JB Weld. I applied it fairly heavy and then sanded the excess away. It took two applications of this process to get the surface to an acceptable “smoothness.” It was quite tedious as the sanding was done by hand with various sized, contoured sanding blocks so as not to flatten the filled areas. The before and after photos are of the same wheel and that is probably the worst wheel. Before I invest more time and money getting a finish on these wheels and buying new tires, do you think they are viable to use? I was thinking I would buy the Michelin XASs with tubes to minimize the leak issue. I look forward to reading your thoughts and suggestions. Tony
  17. To anyone running Rota R20 wheels on your car, I have a question. My new R20's came with black plastic center caps with the Rota logo. The Rota logo is in a resin disk (medallion) that is affixed to the center cap with adhesive.. I'd like to display an Alpina logo on the wheels. From what I've seen researching this, it looks like I have two options for this: a). Buy a center cap with an Alpina center cap that fits the wheel which can be used in place of the Rota plastic center caps. b). Remove the Rota logo medallion from the Rota center caps and replace it with an Alpina medallion. I found these alternate center caps from coupeking on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Alpina-Wheel-Caps-NEW-16-or-14-Alpina-or-Vintage-BMW-OEM-Alloys/222813361082?var=null These look pretty classy, and they appear to fit the opening on the Rota's (2 1/2"). I've purchased items from coupeking in the past and found them to be great to work with. I also found a number of Alpina logo decals specifically designed for center caps. These seem to vary a great amount in terms of quality. Here is an example of one that looks pretty decent, and appears it will fit inside the tapered outside of the Rota center caps: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPINA-47-mm-Resin-Wheel-Center-Caps-Logo-Badge-Decal-Emblem-Sticker-BMW-x-4-ps/122558114793?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D52474%26meid%3Dfa069188c4704685a49ee0fb5360577e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D9%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D222813361082%26itm%3D122558114793&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 For those of you that have done this, I'm curious if you used replacement center caps that already have the Alpina logo on them, or if you have used the Rota caps and replaced the logo decal. Any experience you've had and examples you can share would be much appreciated.
  18. If the current or past owner of this 75 is on here, can you please send me the tire size as well as the ET for these 15x7 BBS RS rims? Thanks,
  19. You offer them to a buddy who’s been dying to find a set for his ‘83 Chevette. These wheels were in rough shape and were headed to the scrapper. But, after some serious sanding, polishing, and paint, your ‘83 Chevette just got a whole lot prettier!
  20. While I keep a set of original steelies, I also have some 15" Panasports with Yoko S-Drives that I put on 4 years/15K miles ago. They were sticky out of the gate, but I now find myself slip/sliding around with some regularity. That seems like a very short life for a tire. Does that sound nuts to you, or is 4 years typical for a daily driver tire?
  21. I am asking because I can have some made up from my collection of misc. wheels. Granted, they won't be original, but these have been nla forever and the moon hubcaps will fit and cover the slightly different centers. Just gauging interest, who would be interested in a set? Second question is, who would be interested in a set of these, but 5.5" wide with correct 2002 offset and still using the moon hubcaps?
  22. Hello everyone- I have been a long time BMW owner but only recently decided to take the leap into E10 ownership. We purchased a '74 Inka Orange locally this past week-end and finally get what the 'joy' is all about. I love everything about it and cannot wipe the smile when I take it out. Some immediate changes I want to make on the car are Euro bumpers and better looking wheels. At the moment it has some aftermarket Ronals on it. Any suggestion on where to order / purchase the Euro bumpers from? I have been reading the posts here on installing these and plan to send a note to Anton for the custom brackets. Will post some pictures here shortly..meanwhile, I love the forum and cannot wait to start contributing. Thanks.
  23. These wheels released from Rota mid-year in 2013, I believe. They list et25, but as of yet this offset isn't in production. I spoke to the folks at 18Racing, and for now its custom order only. But if they order one set, they order several. I think we all know that a cost effective and handsome mesh wheel is needed for the 2002 market. You can find 15x8 et20 and 15x7 et35, but not with a 57.1 center bore. I can custom order a set and get the et25 and a CB at 57.1, but I think that the (unstanced) e30 and 2002 scene aren't really aware of them, and could tip the scales if word got out. 4x100 15x7 57.1 et25 are 650$ a set custom ordered. 5 sets or more would get the cost down to $600. I think Rota nailed the design. Although a true two piece would be sweet.. I know its a knock off, but Rota has been good to us in the past with the RB and the R20.. What do you guys think? Would you buy?
  24. 14" bottlecap wheels with 4 tires all in good shape. wheels are true, but painted black. just need to get these out of my basement. they are free to whomever wants them. restore them or get them powdercoated. will not seperate or ship. i live in SE PA. aaron earling - 484-252-7052
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