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JFINK907

Solex
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  1. So I removed the tape from the condenser. I wasn't able to get the bracket off because of the screw location and I'm not pulling out the distributor just to remove a screw. So I ending up flipping it with the wire facing up and it stays it place. I was able to remove that suspected radio wire without my car dying. So thats all good now. I do have the old condenser and I watch a video how to test it so ill do that today to see if its still good. Also after you guys all mentioned points and what not I realized I'm a bad owner and I need to take care of that. I've NEVER did anything with points since I didn't even know what it was. I ordered a points file and feeler test to get the right gap. My car doesn't run the greatest as is so im sure thats gonna help. I have to figure out whether my distributor is even bad or if I need to buy new points because I relaxed I only done cap and routers. The base and internal parts I've never touched. But with that said is that something you buy new from say blunttech? Or do I have mine refurbished? Is that something I pull out myself and clean up and lubricate? These are things I gotta learn still. But I've learned a ton from this thread already. Im going in the right direction. I got my hands for in the near future of things to fix so THANK YOU ALL for your help. Any more information please continue to post! Thanks, Josh P.s. whoever would have guessed I'd be watching videos on points on YouTube? Not me, but glad I am now!
  2. Can I just completey remove it without fault? Or do I have to put something else over the hole its screwed into?
  3. So you're saying this is a wiper relay? Correct?
  4. So here is a picture of what I was told is "the flasher". After I replaced it my car started. Idk if its related at all or if I even have the wrong part, but I just know my old one was making a clicking noise.. I replaced it and my car started after not starting for 10 days of trying to find a problem. If there is a different part you recommend or I have the wrong one please let me know so I can order it. And you were correct! The brown and black wires were compromised! Good eye! Has anyone replaced single wires or have recommend methods of fixing compromised wires. Ill also be looking up on the page to see if I find anything. Thanks for all the help! Josh
  5. Got one more question on some stray wires. Right behind the coil is where my flasher is. So I have the 3 wires that come into it, which 2 of those 3 wires have a second set of wires that literally go to nothing. Any idea where these go? If I had to get id get my hazards since all my blinkers work but my hazards don't.. but thats a guess. Thanks! You guys are great!
  6. Tom heres a picture of under my distributor cap. Idk anything about points so im gonna have to research more about that. The coil and condenser was purchased based on availability. I've had help along the way adding parts and just asking around so I wouldn't be surprised if I have some wrong types of parts. What is the part in the last picture? That part has a green wire on it that goes to nothing currently.
  7. Tom can you send me a picture of how you have your battery connections set up and ill just copy it? I currently have the negative cable from the motor and the alternator, which combine into what goes onto my negative cable of the battery.
  8. The car turns off immediately after I remove the top wire to the coil. One guy commented he thinks it was added to boost radio signal but I dont see that as the case as it kills the car immediately. The little wire goes to the same location as were a resistor would be if the car still had one.
  9. Thank you everyone for the feedback. So an update. I got my car started! Idk what changed but my flasher was making a clicking noise so I bought a new one and charged the battery and I got it to start. Idk what would have changed but we spent days trying to figure out what was wrong with it, but at least I got it started now and it runs. But from digging into the problems you mention to me I came to the conclusion my wiring is all MESSED up. The bottom green wire appears to run in towards the dash cluster. When I remove the bottom wire the car doesn't turn off or the Volts barely change. But this little blue wire on the negative.. when I remove that it instantly kills the car. So I don't even know what that little thing does or is but my car needs it apparently. Also in tracing wires I found a green one and a brown one that go literally to nothing. The green one is in the engine bay and ill circle it. The brown one appears to be a ground that goes no where. This whole wiring mess might be beyond my scope of practice since I've never done electrical work. But all I know is I have a mess on my hands. And for the comment about the previous owner doing work. The guy I bought it from didn't do anything with it. He said he bought it, it sat there and he didn't even know if it started. When I got it it had a push button to start the car and didn't even start by key. When I got the new ignition switch i got it to start by key but not to even turn off. The car had mice nests and poop in it so ime sure they are part of the problem because why wouldn't they chew on my wires? So yea I think i got my hands full here. Josh
  10. Okay so without the key even in the ignition, so only the battery connected, there is 10.75 V to the coil. With the key on it has 12.5 V. There is power at terminal 15, the positive on the coil, and there is a wire running to the condenser on terminal 1, the negative. I have 2 green wires on the + terminals of the coil which idk if thats normal but they both look to run probably to the ignition switch. The previous owner didn't do anything. This has mostly all original parts, besides the motor block. Has original head though. Its number 1660016 so im trying to keep it original as possible. This ignition issue and shorts in other places such as the horn and taillights are other issues with wiring. But if I can fix as I go id definitely keep the original wiring. As for the wiring for the alternator.. I dont know what the wiring is suppose to look like for that. I attached a picture of what I got. I see a ground wire that attaches to the engine and it splits off into what attached to the negative battery. Is that the same beefy wire your talking about? Lastly. I see my voltage regulator and whatever is next to that are super old and original. Could those be part of the problem? Thanks, Josh
  11. Okay ill try removing it. And mine still has a condenser. Just replaced that as well. Ill have to look into that tool. I have 12 V going into the coil. I have so many electrical issues. My best bet is probably getting a new wiring harness and starting over. If I dont disconnect the battery. The "O" & "L" light stay on and drain my battery. Also I can start the car with a key, but when I remove it the car doesn't turn off.. I replaced my starter, coil, wires and plugs, spark plugs, and ignition switch. Still has an ignition issue. Thanks for commenting and reading.
  12. Hello, I am trying to figure out why my car isn't creating spark. Im reading my manuals I have to see if I can figure something out and I came across a thing called a coil resistor.. in the pictures it doesn't look anything like what my car has. My car is a super early 68 2002. Attached is a picture of what I have on my car. Is this a resistor? Does it need to be replaced? And how can I tell if it still works properly.
  13. Hello all, I am coming here today because I am not the most experiences car guy. My 68 2002 with M10 is not getting spark anymore. I had the front and rear suspension all upgraded. Now that that is done some reason I lost spark. I replaced the starter, battery, coil, cap and router, sparks and wires.. I dont know what else it could be. Please give any input that could help. Much appreciated. Josh
  14. Sometimes posting public is best to get the help you need. Thanks for the help though.
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