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About 2joejoe2

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  1. Hey, Since I am turboing my car, I decided to get a thinker MLS head gasket. My old gasket was .050" and my new gasket is .100" is will lower my compression by about a point. After putting the head back on I reinstalled the cam sprocket and chain (which has about 10k on it). The chain is very tight even with out the tensioner. What are my options? Should I find a prestretched chain? lol...but seriously. I could also maybe modify the tensioner slide to get me a little more room.
  2. This guy was on the forum a few years ago. He even had a build thread but now it is MIA. He is using an Eaton M45 SC from a Merc 230 kompresor. I was actually so inspired when I saw his build that I bought an M45 and was gonna do the same. I built an intake plenum but then decided that if I am going to pressurize my Mikunis I might as well do it with a turbo, so that is where I am at right now. Ignore the crap tig welds....Im just learning lol
  3. if you decide you are willing to ship let me know. Im very interested. I have had good luck shipping across the country with Grey Hound. I am located in the Milwaukee Wisconsin area
  4. dudes driving like a mad man! I would stay away if I was one of the other drivers!
  5. Hey, I have two steering boxes and both have very little to no slop in the center but what seems like a lot as I approach either end. Is this normal? I have done some forum searches and found two post talking about this but no confirmation if its normal and what causes it. Also am I correct to assume that if its tight in the center the slop on the ends just has to be lived with?
  6. So......if you are willing to get crafty you can modify the 5sp shift knob....takes a bit of work.....pull off the aluminum damped portion of the lever....this involves a lot prying and swearing. Then get some .75 aluminum stock...drill one end to slide over the steel portion of of the 5 speed lever....drill and tap the side for some set screws to keep it from spinning. then turn down the other side and thread it to 15X1.5mm (thread size for bmw screw on shift knobs)....I can snag some pics of my set up if you are interested
  7. I believe the stepped ones are from an early 02 and the strait ones are from the later 02s......or it might be the oposite....in any case the earlier CVs look different than the later ones, but they do fit the same.....this I do know
  8. I have found that the welds on top off the shock towers very quite a bit..... I would try to find a way to mount it on the trunk floor. Or maybe shim it up with some .125 or .25 stock ...but either way find a way to support the battery portion so its not just hanging there.
  9. If you flip your sub frame mounts you will probably be good. Only reason Im doing the camber mods is because Im going pretty low and I had to pull out the sub frame to mod my trailing arms for coil overs....so why not.
  10. Yeah thats a little intense for a street car.....and I dont feel like replacing rod ends every couple years.. I think I am going to weld on the camber tabs then install the trailing arm. I will adjust the camber to 3/4 of the way up its travel range and then I will see how misaligned the outer trailing arm mounts are. The inside of the outer mount should be a little high....So I will weld that tab a little higher than the hole factory hole.....I am trying to achieve a straight line from the inside trailing arm mounts to the outside mounts the 3/4 of the way up on the camber is kind of arbitrary but its approximately were I think I will be adjusting my camber to Pictures to follow.
  11. John.....I've wondered about that....the misalignment between the two pivot points does have to put a bit of stress on the bushings as well as the control arms
  12. So, Toby are you saying that you made yours so that the large eccentric washer is keyed to spin with the bolt?
  13. So, I'm rebuilding my rear suspension I ordered the IE rear camber and toe kit.....IE uses a BMW style bolt for the toe kit (bottom) and a custom bolt (top) for the camber kit.......... On the OEM style bolt the eccentric washer turns with the eccentric bolt.....While on the camber kit the eccentric washer is not keyed to turn with the bolt... I see this as a big problem. I was expecting the washer to have a D shaped hole with a flat spot milled in the bolt to keep the eccentric washer in alignment with the eccentric bolt. for a hundred bucks I would expect something a little better.....should of made my own. Is this normal? If so how do you get the the washer and the bolt lined up? I would call IE but they are closed and I want to know what you guys think

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