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  1. I have been using manifold vacuum w/ the carburetor port immediately above plugged up. After a bit of reading it appears I may them reversed. It's a 32/36 Weber. Maybe I should switch them and run over he numbers again?
  2. Best bet is to get Allen head set screws. I found them locally.
  3. I had to drill mine out and managed to damage the threads. Had to buy a new mirror. My only thought is buy a quality, new, sharp drill bit and use a good fast drill. I had neither. Good luck.
  4. Played w/ my 123 Switched Distributor. This unit is the basic model with 16 pre programmed curves. I had been running on Program setting #1 for the last 6 months, decided to switch it to Program #2. Jotted down the ignition curve data for the log book. On another rainy day I try some of the other Programs. Prog. 1 RPM *BTDC Prog, 2 *BTDC (Prog. 2 w/ vac) 800 11 10 21 1000 15 16 1500 19 22 32 2000 25 31 35 2500 29 33 40 3000 31 35 45 3500 31 35 After a short test drive it seems to be a bit peppier moved the shift point up to around 4000 rpm.
  5. Welcome You could check out other vendors. That price for the water pump seems low to me. Just bought one less than a year ago and it was $46, not that I don't like a good deal.
  6. Nice looker. I see the antenna is on the left. Never noticed that before.
  7. That's a new one one me.
  8. Today I checked and adjusted the valves. Last week, I noticed a louder click and clack at idle that either is drowned out or goes away above idle. After adjustment, engine still has what sounds like a single valve that is louder than the rest. Using a mechanics stethoscope it sounds like the #3 exhaust valve. Checking my notes I see that particulate valve as found was the loosest of the eight at 0.008. I'll look at it again tomorrow. Picture of freshly opened patient.
  9. That is your fast (cold) idle adjustment screw. That screw is my pet peeve, it's always very difficult for me to find a suitable screw driver to reach it properly, specially when the air cleaner is still in place. Good luck.
  10. I have a 75 Chamonix that was amateurishly repainted by PO. Every over the shelf spray can I tried just didn't look good. I had a local paint/body supply store color match the hood with a special camera. I then asked him to compare the data from the camera to that of BMW Chamonix. He said it was within some real small percent of a match. Then I asked him to check what existing formulations were even closer to what the camera came up with. Computer came up with some Hyundai white. I had them make a pint can but leave out 4 oz to fill a spray can. I'm saving the spray for the summer but have brushed on some from the can. I just pour out what I will need from the pint can into a small bottle with a good lid and use that for each project I'm working on. This paint dries better and harder than most attempts using a spray cans off the shelf and matches up very well. I'm just not going to tell anyone the color is Hyundia Super White. I plan on using he can to spray the sunroof panel but I think the brushable would work pretty well on the hard to get areas in the engine bay and less obvious areas maybe your hood touch ups areas.
  11. I coincidentally replaced my fan belt yesterday. I have a remanufactured AL116X with the shaft ground down to the nut. Your clearance looks fine to me.
  12. Don't have an impact wrench and I didn't want to damage anything.
  13. I bought a remanufactured AL116X a year or so ago and had to grind down the end of he shaft right up to the nut to give extra clearance for the fan The new Al116X is in the foreground, notice how the pulley is different as well as being slightly larger in diameter. Wanted to swap the pulley off the old one but couldn't make that happen.
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