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7502

Solex
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About 7502

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  1. I feel like I got lucky on my '76 with sunroof. Found it on Craigslist located about 30 minutes south of me in an even smaller town than mine. It was advertised for $6900. After a quick once over and test drive I bought it for $6000 cash money amd drove it home. A buddy followed me home in my VW. . Apparently the 2002, was a recent, not quite finished father son project where they fixed it up mechanically and gave it an amateurish repaint in the original Chamonox color. I think the son went away for college or something and the Dad sold it. It wasn't quite finished on some interior details but it was decent. A big part of it was luck but the other part was me checking Craigslist daily for a month or so. It was actually the first 2002 I even looked at. All the rest were too expensive or too rusty and beat up. I drive it pretty much daily. But my commute is only about 15 minutes city driving and secondary roads so if anything I probably don't commute long enough for it to even get fully warmed up in the winter. Only really expensive thing I have done was to have a local shop swap out the good 4 speed for a good 5 speed. I like a car that looks good at up to about 10 foot or so, for me that's good enough.
  2. Selling my old spare wheel that came with car. BMW 13H2 13" x 5.5" ET18 offset which I think is from an E21. I had the 1986 date code tire removed and cleaned it up a bit - its' in good shape and rings well when struck. If it doesn't sell I'm gonna clean it up some more, repaint and mount it on my garage wall. Maybe take $20 if you pick up otherwise buying pay shipping.
  3. I just successfully returned a set of 3 ton stands, two Harbor Freight workers had to study them a bit since they didn't have the correct stickers or sku number, but looked similar. Eventually, they just decided to give me the rebate. Think I bought them at the Habitat for Humanity store a couple years ago. Looks like I'm back in the market for another set of stands.
  4. My passenger door didn't open from he inside. Replaced the piece that the operates via the inside handle. You can see the damage on this picture.
  5. I assume it has some sort of transducer connected to the circuitry . Next up, I'll re-do the above exercise since I've bumped it up a bit yesterday and also record the ported vacuum from a separate gauge and convert to mmHg. I'm not even sure what MAP stands for. Is it manifold atmospheric pressure??
  6. I'm on ported vacuum and currently using Program 2. I might try Program 4 one of these days. I've played around trying manifold vacuum but didn't like the extra advance at idle.
  7. Thanks for the feedback AVG - I really don't know much about the compression ratio or pistons. It does have a standard cam. I believe it's a factory replacement engine date code 1980 if I'm remembering correctly. Since I have the tools out and some free time I'll bump it up to 34 BTDC all in, and go for a spin. Really just wanted to make sure the advance w/ vacuum wasn't going to be an issue. When searching for max timing information very few people mention max allowable timing when vacuum connected. I just topped it off w/ 92 octane this morning so time to burn up some of that gas.
  8. Had some free time today at home so pulled out the timing light and my logbook. Car is a 75, no emission, w/ a 32/36 carb and 123 Switched distributor. Recorded the following results: RPM BTDC (no vac) RPM BTDC (ported vac) 900 12 1200 14 1300 28 1500 22 1500 32 1700 26 1800 38 2000 30 2000 40 2200 30 2400 41 2400 31 2600 31 2600 31 2700 31 3000 31 My questions are about the max advance numbers. Many members mention that max advance is safe and good to around 32-34 BTDC (assuming w/ no vacuum?) I'm a little concerned about the max numbers under vacuum. Is that a problem at all? If not, should I go ahead and advance another couple degrees while I'm at it? Thanks, hope my tables line up properly. Eric
  9. Not sure what version you have purchased but the Switched version is super easy. Just a few steps to follow in the manual to get it up and running. You can see the manual on their web site. If using the switched version, just remember to orient the new unit so you can conveniently see the program switch once the cover plug is removed. Also might want to double up on the special flattened O ring seals on the shaft. Good luck.
  10. Pulled my 123 Switched distributor and reinstalled at a different orientation so I could look into the Switch window to see what program it was set on. Got tired of having to use a camera to take a picture through the window. Now all I need are some reading glasses to look in the hole. Been using it for a couple years but finally decided to make my life easier and get it set in correctly. Was relieved it fired right back up with a minimum of fiddling. Currently set to Program 2: 30 BTDC at 2400 rpm. Incidentally I've always wondered what program from the spec sheet would provide the best overall performance. Can't really say but I've tried a few of them and seem to always like the one it's currently set at.
  11. On mine the tab is bent outward a little bit.
  12. I had mine out a couple weeks ago for adjustment. Mine is from a '75, it's actually a two piece assembly. Is it possible the inner collar on yours isn't seated all the way on the outer ring?
  13. Topic update, a wee bit of plug protection for the time being.
  14. Here's a picture of what I thought was the preferred set up. Sometimes the terms for the different nipples can make my head spin. I'm using the top nipple for the 123 vacuum line. The bottom one on the manifold is plugged. I have the Plane Jane switched 123 and a 32/36 carb.
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