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Son of Marty

Solex
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Everything posted by Son of Marty

  1. It should be in line with the diff center. It looks like you have the adjustment space between the mounting ears to get it stright try loosing the engine mounts and then center the tranny and tighten it down before tightening the engine mounts.
  2. No I goofed up and reversed the oil flow, you'd need to put the vac to the outer diameter of the filter head to put a vac on the pump.
  3. Here's the fridge you need for the shop https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW47GAK/ref=as_li_tl? seriously nice looking shop by the way.
  4. Get a piece of clear 3/4" tube from the local hardware store, remove the filter and attach the hose to the center nipple on the filter head and take the other end of the hose and up it in the shop vac hose and seal it with a hand held rag and turn on the vac and when the oil shows up in the clear hose pull the rag off and you'll have prime.
  5. I agree thats a pretty good valve wack on that piston, I don't know if the picture is showing a completely installed piston or not as there is no #4 piston in the picture, but if it is the head will have to be relived obviously for that to work not to bring up the valve clearance problem.
  6. Thats the fuel by pass valve it returns excess fuel to the tank on smoged cars via the metal pipe that runs under the car. Not strictly necessary but if you do remove it you'll need to block the return line off at the tank to prevent fuel leaks.
  7. One other thought are the 3 prongs the same on the box as on the vr.
  8. Never seen that set up either but as Toby says noise reduction for the radio would be my first guess, I would think it was added in parallel at some point and you could bypass it but be aware that is only a guess and not based on any actual knowledge other than I have never seen a vr in 2 stages on any car I can remember
  9. I don't think you'll be able to save the mount as the point of the set screw fits into a cone on the mount to keep it steady, as to the mirror itself it's hang onto the new one until you find out if your fix is going to work you can always sell it on the parts form. for the record for the next one to drill out that set screw I've learned to use blue tape covered with duct tape when drilling that close to the paint as it's almost impossible to not nick it with the chuck unfortunately not the first or even the second time I it
  10. The channels that you refer too are only a inch or two long and the rest of the line is plastic tube, it might be possible to scrub the rust out with a wire test tube brush and the brush some por 15 or equivalent in with w q-tip or model paint brush. I don't think theirs anyway to tell if the tube is punctured with out taking it out having a look.
  11. http://www.environment.gov.au/protection/chemicals-management/lead/lead-in-auto-paints. Found this it's not BMW specific but I would proceed as if lead was present mask gloves shower after sanding.
  12. White lithium grease is meant to harden on the surface thus keeping dirt out although too much does make a unsightly mess.
  13. Go with the 123 what is passed off as gasoline these days it would not be ideal to have you 008 rebuilt to the old stock curve and when set there your pretty much stuck with it on a stock single card engine probably not a big deal but on a Tii or hopped up engine you'll need the adjustment IMHO.
  14. A lot of the brands that are spec'ed in the blue book have been superseded and or improved over the last 40 years or never were available in the states to begin with, so take a look at what's recommended and what they are trying do with it and pick a modern product thats closest to what they were after. In this case a hi temp anti seize will do.
  15. Those seat would look realy good if you return your car to the original Mintgrun.
  16. With everything else on the engine being stock you'll wind up a bit short of Tii h/p, but with the sidedrafts you could modify the engine C/R and cam much easier than a Tii
  17. Yes, unfortunately to get all the air out you'll need to turn it over, and yes it a major pain, sorry
  18. If it's a O/D 5 speed from a 320i the bleed nipple should be at the bottom and the feed hose on the top, I know that it sounds backward but it's not
  19. While your under there check if the tie rod is hitting the bell housing this is caused by worn idler arm bushings, it's probably one of the issues listed above but worth a look anyway.
  20. It was used on 75 and 76's with the thermo reactor exhaust manifold as a heat shield. You could delete it with a normal exhaust system
  21. Sounds like you did everything right on the reassembly, sometimes the spring on the backside of the seal can become dislodged when your pounding the seal in place and that will cause a leak I always put a 1/4" dab or wheel bearing grease in 2 places about 180' apart on the backside to keep it in place. Seals usually work fine but they are tricky devils and sometimes they don't take.
  22. guess i didn't have the volume up enough, that make sense
  23. I think that if you tried to put the 40 mm flange into the 38 mm seal you'd have to pound it together so hard you would know somethings wrong. Did you oil the seal lip and flange on assembly? and as Jim said is it square and not riding exactly where the old seal wore a groove in the output flange? I don't think you'll be able to measure the flange with out taking it apart but it should measure ether 38 or 40 mm - a few thousands of a mm, if you need the car soon maybe order both seals so you can repair it in one trip.
  24. A couple of things that surprise me about that video, they didn't knife edge the crank just gave it a mild rounding off, and nowhere during the assembly did I see a torque wrench being used. As to using it in a 02 that smallish turbo might interfere with the steering box otherwise your good to go, just bring it up to around 12,000 rpm and drop the clutch.
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