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mvliotta last won the day on May 18 2020

mvliotta had the most liked content!

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    North NJ

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  1. I’m cleaning up that area currently. The buffer blocks originally sat on top of the black thick tar-like pads. Here is a shot with the block and pad in place behind the wiper motor: This is the location on the firewall, with pad removed. Adhesive is still there: Anyone know what the purpose of the pads are? Vince
  2. Exactly what I was looking for, Steve! Also, found a pic of the nose bottom to guide in straightening that out.
  3. Seems like I’ve been removing, scraping, sanding, prepping for weeks and still have a ways to go. Including engine bay and related areas has added lots of scope and some questions... There are 5 clips holding the main wiring harness in the bay. Four are pictured here. Should these be plated or are they body colored? What do the headlight assemblies and buckets originally look like? Were they plated? I have lots of overspray in the spaces surrounding heater fan. What did these look like originally? And finally, the bottom of the nose is somewhat....tortured. Any good refs of what this profile should be?
  4. Wow, some awesome stuff. Just realized we are neighbors and have the same year/model. I’m in the Montclair area. You close by? Vince
  5. Ok, easier than I thought...slide accelerator lever through box, undo two clips and unbolt stuff...
  6. Found a very similar clip online (Digikey wire clamp) for 1/100th of the BMW price of $26 each...holy mother of Moses!
  7. Well, I’m officially down the rabbit hole. Baby is in the corner With the engine out and brake lines out of the way, is there an *easier* way to remove pedal box and brake booster? Both will be coming out Vince
  8. Thanks for correcting my error, Paul!!
  9. Thanks guys . It’s in the underside of the trailing arm Here is a pic of one of mine that has it...although I think this was replaced as the originals were secured with hex bolts.
  10. The clip that holds the brake line and attached to the rear trailing arm (#12 in the following) is NLA (part number 34321115086) Any alternatives?
  11. I was in a somewhat similar situation... The bottom end was original on my ‘72 tii, but the head was done prior to my ownership (<20k miles on it) After I replaced a slipping clutch, I was getting some pretty bad smoke on decel. Was really bad on the highway, when letting off the accelerator at above 4000 rpm. Nothing I did helped until I dove into a bottom end rebuild with new pistons and rings. All good now. No smoke whatsoever. I’m guessing you’ll need to replace rings to resolve your issue, unfortunately Vince
  12. Well, I took the plunge and started taking off the rubber undercoating everywhere. A schutzy job. I found that a heat gun and a variety of plastic and metal scrapers are your friends. In some cases, the undercoating came off easily in sheets once heated, leaving behind a rubbery residue. This was especially true where the surface underneath was smooth and the Schutz was thick enough. Goo Gone spray cut right through the residue. Where protected by the rubber, the underbody was in great shape. You could see the cream colored primer, with just a touch of original overspray here: The wheel wells were harder because of the textured surface underneath from the factory. Where it did come off in sheets revealed pristine Ceylon over original Schutz! This paint hasn’t seen the light of day in almost 50 years. About 80% of the way through. From the multiple bins of rubber I peeled off, I would say the car is 15lbs lighter already. 😀 Once I get it all off and sand and treat surface rust, will make a plan to paint the underbody. Oh yeah... also decided to drop the engine and trans and prep/paint the engine bay, while I’m at it....What else is there to do in winter during lockdown??
  13. How tight is your current engine? Rebuilding a tired engine (with blow by) with 10:1 pistons made all the difference for me.
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