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      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

mvliotta

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About mvliotta

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  1. other

    Rob (Hack), Just saw this post. I actually tried several sizes (including the one above in this post) before settling on this one, which has proven to be the best sealing: The o-rings that I think you purchased (344 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Round, Black, 3-7/8" ID, 4-1/4" OD, 3/16" Width (Pack of 2) actually did not seal that well after all! Vince
  2. I have a '72 tii (2761485) with what looks to be original belts. 3 point retracting Autoflug fronts, 2 point retracting Autoflug rears. (my production day is April 25th, 1972) Also have a spare set dated1972 /1..... A set dated in January with the exact same set up. Vince
  3. Rare, one-of-kind, vintage rotors. You'll be the only kid on the block with these... on Ebay for only $590
  4. Thanks Simeon. I pulled out an old receipt... Looks like valve seals ("new style" on the receipt), rocker arms, and camshaft were purchased. As part of the work: - R+R+fit guides - 4 cal valve job - resurfaced head - 008 - remove and install cam rockers - spring shims Been using Castrol 20w/50 for last couple of years.
  5. Where are you located?
  6. Hi all. This is for a '72 tii. The PO re-did the top part of the engine (121) about 12 years and less than 30,000 miles ago. Judging from the work I've done under the hood in the last couple of years and items I have replaced, the car could not have been performing at its best at the time of the engine refresh. After doing a bunch of things to make the car pull well through all gears, I've noticed the classic signs of leaking valve seals/guides.... Smoke on deceleration above 50 mph. Can get a moderate amount of smoke by going to WOT on the highway (55mph -> 80 mph) and then letting off the throttle completely. Also a puff above 50 mph when I step on the throttle and then let up for a bit. Question is... Short of redoing the valve seals/guides is there anything I can do to improve the situation? (If this is the cause, of course) Vince
  7. Hi all. Warning! Long writeup After a long winter of working in the garage when time allowed, the weather has finally allowed me to get Liesl back on the road to test out what I have done... and discover remains issues and my mistakes (at the bottom ). First some background: I have a '72 tii that I purchased a couple of years ago. It ran ok after I sorted out a lean condition due to old ignition components and a cracked intake runner. However, it never really popped because the clutch was slipping like crazy, the dizzy was worn and I suspected the injectors needed a cleaning. Was eager to get her back to her old glory. A recap of what was done: 1) Clutch and associated mission creep. Started taking stuff off and quickly realized I was in for more than I originally thought. Replaced the clutch with a 228 mm kit... AND... replaced transmission seals, rear main seal, trans bushings, exhaust support bracket, pilot bearing, center support bearing, blasted and coated the headers, and cleaned everything in the area up....YUK. This forum and its awesome members was the only way I got through all the above, as all this was new to me. Here is link to that thread, which has lots of pics Should I replace the clutch myself?? 2) Fuel injection components. I had a spare set of younger injectors, linkages and injector tubes, so went about replacing and cleaning the injection components, getting the injectors cleaned and tested, refreshing KF brings, and cleaning up the throttle body. Also cleaned up and checked WUR operation. Here is the link to that thread: Fuel injectionrefurbish 3) Distributor rebuild. Decided to take apart the -008 mechanical advance distributor, with its worn springs and axial play, and rebuild according to buckeye's tutorial. A little daunting, but with some coaching from buckeye and reading 76mintgrun's threads on the topic, replaced the springs with new ones, replaced the anti-friction pad and re-shimmed the shaft to spec. Worzella was very nice enough to send me his unused rebuild kit. Lubed it all up and replaced. 4) Valve adjustment. Adjusted valve clearances to .007"....and replaced spark plugs for good measure The outcome and questions! 1) Distributor timing. Timed her up with aid of advance timing light. Happy to report that the bouncing timing marks are gone and the advance curve looks really good. Things seem A LOT smoother. 2) Tuning and testing, repeat. Started with D cam in throttle body per tii guide recommendation, but soon realized I was running too lean. Moved the D cam to 1/2 way over hole and then took her out for a road test.... WOW! Don't know if it was the clutch, or the dizzy, or the injectors or combo of the above, but Liesl is now awake! Pulls strong through all gears.. found myself laughing out loud. Issues/mistakes: 1) Leaks. Looks like the reverse switch is wet. Replaced the crush washer when the tranny was out, but now realized I should have replaced the whole switch. Hopefully not too hard to do with tranny in place. Also see that the lower exhaust stud #4 is dripping oil. Not sure if it was from the valve cover when I did not tighten it down hard enough after replacing valve cover gasket or from the stud itself. Time will tell, I guess 2) A puff of grey smoke. Now that I can really make her run, I saw a puff of greyish smoke on the highway after full on WOT for a few seconds and then letting her fully decelerate down to about 3000 RPM. Not sure if valve guides/seals are worn or if some residual oil/gas in intake manifold from tuning/testing? It does look a little oily in there. 3) AFR values spot on? I'm getting the following AFR values: WOT - 13.5 initial mid throttle - swings to 15.5 cruising mid throttle - 12.5 idle - 12.5 Input on the above, much appreciated!
  8. Congrats Paul! It was entertaining and educational for me. Found myself using your build as a reference a couple of times. Vince Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. PMing re: font bumper ends. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. PM sent for bosal resonator
  11. Just did this on my pump. Pretty straightforward. 6mm Allen wrench, I think, to get at the o-rings. Ordered new ones from Blunt and replaced. Should stop the weeping. Some folks have flipped the o-rings for a temporary fix, but I would not do that. The o-rings are about $5 a piece. Some have tried standard size i rings to cut down cost...not worth it, I think. Vince Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I'll take the drain tube, pedal box cover, and wiper motor cover, if still available. PM'ing
  13. I have two of those. One in the same location as the OP, and the other on top of valve cover... although not wired up. Were early cars supposed have two?
  14. Hi, What is the diameter of these lights? Thx -Vince