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MattL

Kugelfischer
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About MattL

  • Birthday July 28

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  1. I was actually looking at the 14-inchers, which are listed as et20. So, they'd be pushing a little further out. Half the price of the 15s, though!
  2. Reviving this old thread in the hope that someone, somewhere might have tried these CMC-03s on their 02. I'm with you, Tee: those Alfa wheels are pure sex (especially on a good-looking GTV). Similar to the Dunlop works alloys on old British racers. So, has anybody given these Miata wheels a try, despite the bananas name? If not, can you tell whether they're likely to fit from the published specs?
  3. Nice swag! Emailed about the 5 speed.
  4. I have one of these wired to my LED third brake light. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FADDOL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8GT7Cb376M7P3 It was very easy to install, especially in conjunction with the light itself. I chose this one because you can customize the flashing. I didn’t like how prolonged the sequence of some of the other modules was: I was worried it would annoy anyone behind me in traffic. I have mine set to flash quickly twice and then stay solid. Enough to catch the eye.
  5. That looks like his rough draft for the Ferrari Dino 2+2.
  6. For anyone still tuning in, I made some more observations on a drive tonight: 1. The shaking happens mainly as the car is just getting moving. In other words, as the clutch starts to disengage and the torque transfers to the wheels. 2. If I start off in 2nd gear, there's no shaking at all. Can I assume this narrows the list of suspects down to the engine, clutch, and transmission? Or would the fact that 2nd gear = less torque mean the other possibilities are still...possible? Any further diagnosis from you all? I hope to get the car up on stands at some point this weekend and give it a real good poke-around.
  7. Is this in reference to the magnet? Because it's not the buckle sliding down the webbing that's the issue. It's the fact that the belt doesn't retract back into the reel reliably. So, when I exit the car, there's frequently a pile of belt still slack next to the seat, meaning the buckle drops to the floor whether or not there's a stop or clip on the belt.
  8. Not even 24 hours after my post, and I'm equipped with a hefty list of potential solutions. You guys rock. Love this community.
  9. Thanks for the ideas, guys. Steve: I don't know how recently the clutch was replaced, although I think the throwout bearing is in need of replacement at the very least: there's a tinny rotational rattle at idle with the clutch depressed. There's also some general rotational/rattle noise coming from somewhere in neutral independent of the clutch, but I need to do some more elimination to find that. Mike: I recently cleaned up the distributor and made sure the vacuum advance is operational, but I didn't disassemble completely enough to check the weights. If it's an engine issue, though, it should happen even when parked, right? Paul: I took a look at the guibo when I rebuilt the shifter a few months back. Looked pretty fresh to me at that time, but I'll check it again. I'll look at the transmission mount and center support bearing and bolts as well. One thing I neglected to mention: my mechanic has indicated that a pinion bearing in my open diff is at fault for the grinding sound I hear over 20 MPH. So, I'll be putting in a new-to-me LSD pretty soon, along with the CV axles to match. Could the vibration be related to the diff? Thanks again!
  10. Definitely a good point, Greg. Thank you. I should have clarified that when buckled the general tension and lock are fine, just as Steve describes above. It's just that the reel doesn't have enough tension to pull the belt and buckle up to the loop when exiting the car. The magnet is mainly just to save me the 15 seconds of rooting around for the buckle every time I get in the car.
  11. My car shakes whenever I take off from a stop in first. It’s only as I transition from clutch to throttle, and it only happens in first. Doesn’t happen if I rev up to 3k or so and ease off the clutch as the revs come down, as long as they don’t drop too low. This has been an issue since I got the car last summer. Any my thoughts or suggestions would be welcome. Thanks.
  12. I had the garage open yesterday as I tackled some house and yard projects. As frequently happens on our busy corner, the sound of an interesting engine (“Is that a carbureted four?!?”) perked up my ears and dilated my eyes. By the time I made it outside, I just caught a glimpse of a green (Tundra, maybe?) roundie pulling away from the stop sign. I expect the driver didn’t see my 02 over the comparatively enormous RAV4 parked in our driveway. Was that driver anybody here?
  13. Thanks, Steve. I’ll have to order a couple, as mine are certainly missing. Even if they weren’t, though, the lack of tension that remains in my reels means that my buckles would generally still fall to / remain near the floor.
  14. Just thought I'd share this easy solution to an annoying problem. My seat belt buckle always slides down to the floor when unfastened and removed. A tired retractor, I guess. In any case, I had a few rare earth magnets, and slapped one up there below the shoulder loop. It stays firmly in place and grabs and holds the buckle there with just a touch. I expect I'm far from the first to do this, but I didn't see a similar post up already.
  15. Just bought a 3.9 LSD from RussTii. The price was very reasonable, but I mentioned to him that I was taken off-guard by the prices for half axles, etc. required for the swap. Russ threw in (at no charge!) full, already-modified axles to make the unit a ready-to-bolt-in swap. And he wouldn't even let me pay him for the additional shipping cost for the extra 40 pounds of parts! The parts arrived exactly when he said they would, and in a really sturdy (heirloom quality, even) wooden crate. I can't wait to get everything installed, and I have no doubt the unit is exactly as Russ described. What a great guy!
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