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MattL

Kugelfischer
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MattL last won the day on October 9 2019

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About MattL

  • Birthday July 28

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    Male
  • Location
    Collingswood, NJ

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  1. "Impactful" was a poor choice, I guess. What I meant was "noticeable."
  2. Don’t know, sorry. No scale. But it is significant, and the reduction looks to be concentrated toward the outside diameter. So, I’m hoping it will be pretty impactful.
  3. Stock on the left, lightened from TEP on the right.
  4. Hey Chris, Today I actually talked with Gordon, the guy you put me in touch with. I’m going to take him the cracked box and the grimy spare, and see if he can merge them into something good. Thank you for the tip. Matt
  5. I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth. In all seriousness, though, it was deeply discounted due to the damage, so I don't feel like I got hosed. And I'm glad I ham-handed my way around this box instead of a really nice one. Assuming the Franken-Trans project is a success, I will have already gotten my stupid mistakes out of the way. And I'll be sure to keep an eye out for the bearings. Thanks again.
  6. Yep, that’s the one. Thanks for the advice. Luckily, I have a “spare” unit that another generous FAQ member gave me for parts. I’m going to take them both to a pro in the hope he can create one good box out of the two of them. In the meantime, I’ll put the 4-speed back in. It’ll be good to drive the car again, at least!
  7. I bought a cracked and repaired 245 5-speed to swap into my car. The damage was to the bell housing, and the crack was welded to fix. Today I test fit the thing in order to determine mount placement, etc. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get both dowel pins to seat. I measured the distance between them and found that it’s roughly 1/16” greater than the same dimension on my 4-speed. The 3 o’clock pin/hole (looking towards the gearbox) seems to be the culprit. The weld was right next to it, so that makes sense. I believe I can get the transmission to mate if I take that pin out and just install a bolt. Am I crazy to consider that as a solution?
  8. PM coming re the distributor, wires, and coil!
  9. Oh, man. Those are beautiful. Kinda wish I didn't already have an original pair waiting in the garage for a rehab. Do you guys happen to sell just the gaskets/seals as well?
  10. Thanks, all. To clarify: I've ordered a replacement from a couple places in the hope that at least one will arrive in a relatively timely manner. So, the price of the part is not the issue: my impatience is. I did buy a pair of better external snap pliers (the only ones I could find locally), and they're definitely an improvement over the internal/external ones I already had. Still, they're not what I would call "high-quality": https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/performance-tool-4601/tools---equipment-16488/hand-tools-16814/pliers-18041/203f58549407/performance-tool-pliers/w88001/4614642?q=snap+ring+pliers&pos=18 I'll look online for a more robust option. I'll keep trying the vice-and-pliers efforts to get it straightened out a bit, but I agree that the tight fit of the groove looks like it will make any kind of waviness a no-go. I've checked a few local places, and they don't have any replacement options that fit the bill. Anything of the correct diameter is the wrong thickness, and vice-versa. I'll keep looking though. Thanks again for all the advice and suggestions.
  11. I need to put the input shaft snap ring back on my Getrag 245 in order to get it sewn up and finally installed. The problem is, it deformed when I removed it...but the one I ordered will take who knows how long to get here from Germany. I'm wondering if the groove in which the ring will sit would make the warp inconsequential. Stupid to even consider it? Wait for the replacement to get here?
  12. @2002 Hey Steve: you are a life-saver! It was definitely the operating lever, and after some trial and error and thinking it through, I got it sorted without taking the box apart any further. I posted an update here:
  13. Update for those interested: Thanks to Steve's ( @2002) suggestion, I confirmed that the “Operating lever” was detached. Wouldn’t go back in. I chamfered and polished the edge of the bolt and lined up the lever perfectly with a pick through the hole. Still wasn’t going all the way in. Snugged it down so it was grabbing the lever but not clamping it down. Shifted into fifth then back to neutral as gently as possible. Snugged the bolt down as tight as I could to keep the lever in that position. (I could feel it was “on the pivot hole but not aligned well enough to go in.) Twisted the selector rod over to the reverse gate and it pushed through for the first time. Checked the bolt, and it had lined up with the hole and could now be tightened all the way down/in. Can now shift through all gears. Need to put the input shaft shim/lockring/seal/flange back on, fill her up and do the drill thing to make sure she’s actually functioning well. Fingers crossed that I'll have it installed within a week or two. To clarify: I'm certain the lever was detached by my dumb ass before I ever looked at a diagram, thinking the bolt on top was the fill plug: @resra sent me a good box and I screwed it up! Sorry for putting that fact into any doubt, resra!
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