Jump to content

mvliotta

Kugelfischer
  • Posts

    847
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7
  • Feedback

    75%

Everything posted by mvliotta

  1. Ok, think I got it..that wire needs to terminate to the body with the other grounds in the trunk? I guess the other brown wire (in the harness) goes to right taillight.? Then, Probably got lost because it was a lone ground, and not wrapped up in a harness…makes sense? Yeah, sorry, electrical not my strong suit…
  2. Putting my trunk wiring together and I’m missing a ground. Just about to unwrap my newly wrapped trunk harness, but figure I’ll ask here first…. This is a pic of the left rear tail light on a ‘72 tii before it went for paint. Left the harness in the trunk and the painters pulled it through the cabin. Never mind there red connectors..they were used for a 3rd brake light The dark brown right-most ground is no where to be found now. Seems it was separate from the original trunk harness. What is it for? Where should I look for it? All other wiring in engine bay made sense up until now, so totally confused. Thanks for any help! Vince
  3. I’m in the same camp as Jason. Could move my build thread over, but find it more engaging in the general section currently. Vince
  4. My old pictures of the original set up (was never restored) did not show any obvious washer there (maybe there was a hidden wave washer??) so I came to the conclusion that the thick plate for the the pivot bracket (which is the same thickness as the washer on the other side) did the job. Also, There is a self locking nut holding that bolt in place on the other side. As it stands right now on my car, the bolt just barely makes it through all the threads on that self locking nut. A washer of any thickness on the passenger side would stop the bolt from going fully through the driver’s side nut…which I think would be an issue….sooo no extra passenger side washer for me. Vince
  5. Not much progress on Liesl in the last month as the the backyard, graduations, and surfing! has soaked up most of my attention. For some inspiration, worked on the sunroof, which was harder than I thought…sort of like a jigsaw puzzle to get the inner panel, tracks and cables all together and working. The big tip that helped was to put the inner panel in the tracks with the plastic forks in place in the back prior to guiding and securing the tracks down. Also painted and assembled the air cleaner for a boost I’m aware that the air cleaner clips were not cad plated out of the factory, but was tired of having them chip over time….AND the look of these in yellow cadmium makes me happy 🙂 Gotta get moving to have the car on the road by Oct. Vince
  6. Wondering if you can expand on this a bit as I’m thinking of going in your direction… Are you happy with how the doors close? Do you see any difference between the BMW seal and aftermarket? Any issue with applying? Any tips? Which glue?
  7. Found some time to tackle the vent windows. Decided to deanodize, polish and seal the frames without taking them apart, given the amount of time and energy to dismantle, anodize and reassemble them. So, with lots of care, brushed some drain cleaner on the aluminum frames to deanodize them.🫣 in the pic below, the vertical outer frame has the caustic solution on it, the curved outer frame is freshly deanodized and the inner window frame has not been touched and is still cloudy. While brushing, I protected the rubber with a strip of aluminum flashing. A little drain cleaner goes a long way. Once it started bubbling and getting cloudy, I used 1000grit sandpaper to help the process along. Managed to not burn myself or damage the seals or windows!! Here is the polished result. Very happy with them and thought the 2 hrs per vent window were well worth it. These will get a coat of Everbrite to seal the surface. Won’t last 20 years but won’t mind if I have to reapply the everbrite every few years or so. in the meantime received a shipment of B pillar trim and bumpers. Gotta start putting this stuff on soon. Vince
  8. Thanks all, the wealth of knowledge here continues to amaze!!
  9. Maxmillion is now selling a chromed early oil filler cap…which got me thinking…. Was that cap chromed from the factory? Checked out a couple of old pics found on this forum of early tii engines and it seems the answer is yes by this photo and maybe? by this photo.. Can anyone confirm that these were chromed? Vince
  10. My car had the original Schutz on the underside that was in various stages of flaking off and trapping moisture underneath so I elected to strip it off with a heat gun: Some of it came off easy, some was a real pain. Here is what a nice section underneath looked like once cleaned up ….a creamy colored primer with some Ceylon gold overspray here and there. There were several areas that were not so nice…. surface rust in spots, which needed to be treated. Since I was about to restore the car, I decided to make the underside uniform and spray it the body color. ..better protected now and much better to look at for the MANY hours spent underneath. Glad I did..
  11. Did you check if pedal to floor coincides with kfisch lever hitting the limiting bolt? Would also check to see if fuel pressure from fuel pump is delivering around 28psi to Kfisch pump. Vince
  12. I’ve been planning the next phase of assembly….exterior trim, seals, etc and taking stock of what I have, what to buy, and what to refurbish. Not my favorite part of the project. I’m getting mostly new aluminum trim, and chrome bumpers as I’m finding the cost and time of renewing what I have doesn’t make sense. Two areas that I’m focused on now are chrome grilles and vent window frames… Found a shop that will do bright dip anodization so will send my shallow bucket side grilles and kidney grille there after removing slats and sanding down/polishing some areas that need it. Really time consuming, but feel like that will work out ok. I’m more perplexed about what to do about vent window frames. The windows and seals are fine, but the cloudy aluminum frames are going to stand out against the adjacent new trim. Would need to remove window, seals and all steel items for anodization of aluminum pieces. That would require complete disassembly…drilling 7? Steel rivets, get alum anodized, polish up chrome pieces..probably new seals..reassembly…etc, etc. That seems like an incredible amount of work for brightening up bit of aluminum trim in well-working vent windows. Any other options that don’t require any disassembly?? Vince
  13. I think I might qualify as the ‘straddled wildlife’ as I roll around in my low chair under the low rise lift, banging my head on various underside components more times than I care to admit! You got me thinking, Lorin, so I took a look underneath and saw that the exhaust and rear sway bar sit lower than those nuts. What’s left then, is whether my OCD to comply with realoem will win out over practicality…Today…practicality wins, but can’t guarantee that I won’t flip those bolts around tomorrow 🥴 Thanks Jim! I remember you going through your ti build and daydreaming about whether I’d take the plunge to restore Liesl to the high standard you were undertaking. Vince
  14. Sharp eyes Mark! I had them with nuts on top as per realoem and then turned the bolts around so that my torque wrench could get access to the nuts from below. Saw a post that it didn’t matter as long as the thick washer was underneath…so went with nuts on bottom. What do you folks think?
  15. Thanks Lorin! Yes, warm lighting overhead making it look caramel. I have an old barn light over the engine bay. …Sometimes gives the Ceylon an orangey hue. The color of the header is same grey as exhaust from underneath photos.
  16. More progress over the last couple of weeks. Exhaust, driveshaft, radiator and brakes are in! Was great to see her on the ground again. Mechanicals are nearly done and very much looking forward to troubleshooting and starting her up. I’ve been at it for about 3 months and guessing I’m about halfway there at the pace I’m going. Vince
  17. Thanks for the advice, will follow it by applying heat to the engine side. Thanks Steve! Here is a closeup of the diagnostic port on the valve cover It came with the car when I got it. Although the PO did a color change on the car about 20 years ago from Ceylon to silver, he was a stickler for originality and did not disturb much of the engine bay and other areas. I’m very grateful for that now, as much of what I dismantled was original. Of course, the downside to the PO’s approach was silver overspray everywhere! Spent countless hours stripping paint from wires and parts. Vince
  18. Tackled front suspension this week. This forum was a huge help in getting it together and ready for install: Last year I reinforced engine mount bracket. Following advice from those that used the plate available from vendors, cutout some of the plate to make room for the engine mount nut before welding in. One obstacle I came across during install was that the ST sway bar is hitting the front valence. Seems like it’s a common issue. Will need to gently coerce valence away from sway bar, I guess. Cringe at doing this with fresh paint. Besides that, rest of suspension went in with no drama by dropping car down to mate up subframe and then jacking struts up to secure bearing to fender (with sway bar detached as suggested earlier) Next up….driveline, exhaust, and brakes. Vince
  19. Almost 3 years to the day! Seems like another world now, Paul. Have very fond memories of you guiding me through the engine rebuild. That was a great couple of months. Cracking open a couple bottles of Peroni at the end of the day was the best! A few shots from then.. Didn’t realize then that getting the engine sorted was just step 1….
  20. As I’m taking stock of front suspension parts and procedures, have a question about a minor, but very visible detail… What type of nuts should be used on top of fender (3 nuts) to secure strut bearing in place? Real OEM calls for regular nuts and wave washers, but I’ve seen acorn nuts, flange nuts, nyloc all with our without big washers underneath. Guessing most choices are ‘acceptable’ and likely a personal preference thing, but what did the factory do?
  21. Thanks Paul! Sunlight was bouncing around the garage just right. My favorite pic so far. Thanks for pointing that out, Mark. Will go without the dust cover on these. Did some work on them this week.. Since they are upside down, they screw in through bottom of the strut: and here they are… These are tii struts but the housing tube is beefier and the spring perch is about an inch lower than standard ones. There are other posts describing these in detail, so won’t go into it here. Also tackled the safety bolts on the bottoms of the struts while on the bench. Took me a few times to get the safety wiring the way I wanted it since I’ve never done it before. Also used red loctite…probably overkill, but don’t want any doubts. So ready to assemble and instal rest of front suspension….once I can get some free time. Vince
  22. Thx, makes sense now that I’m putting the front end together. Another question… I got my upside bilsteins back from performance shock with these blue dust covers. I’m not that crazy about them. Do the strut cartridges need to be covered? My regular bilsteins did not have covers and wondering if I can go ‘au natural’ with these? Vince
  23. Engine and transmission are now in place! The engine is sitting on a spare subframe for now. Plan is to support it from above, remove the temporary subframe and replace it with refurbished front subframe and suspension. Wondering if it will be easier to assemble entire suspension and drop car on to it (while guiding struts through fenders) or attach struts to fenders and then drop to rest of the suspension? Opinions welcome. Can’t believe it’s been 3 years since engine rebuild and 2 1/2 since engine was dropped for this resto….It’s great to see it back in the bay. Vince
  24. Just my iPhone. Lighting was just perfect. Went back with my canon dslr an hour later but the magic was gone. Best camera is the one you have with you.
×
×
  • Create New...