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About deschodt

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  1. +1 above, they won't chase it down but in an audit all bets are off... I was potentially in that situation with a 912 which I sold at the height of the porsche market in 2016-17. Thankfully I owned 2x 912s and a 911 at the time, and being identical bodies, the parts and repairs applied to whichever car you saw fit because the bills were so vague, ahem 😉 No gain... i already have over 30K in the the bimmer and it may not be worth that despite upgrades. Better not adding these receipts up... PS: tomphot, we have extraordinarily simialr tastes, down to 2002 color 😉
  2. deschodt

    Trunk Seal Dilemma

    Ooh, I had that issue last year - bad - enough to get watery eyes and get mu clothes to smell rich. Even bought a home CO monitor and put it in the car, it read quite high with the windows cracked open, and to some extent even windows closed. Scary stuff... I bought a battery smoke machine for $20 on ebay and smoked my trunk for 15 minutes, while removing my rear back seat completely (takes 2 minutes). Ignoring someunplugged badge holes which I fixed, I saw 90% of the smoke escape via the trunk sides between the lid and seal and 10% get in the cabin via the rear seat holes for speakers and battery relocation... Long story short, I foamed the invisible and hard to reach ingress points with home foam (crack filler) stuff, but what clinched it was lining up the trunk lid itself with a thin rubber strip (like for underside of house doors), self adhesive, attached all around the edge, which makes contact with my trunk seal and squishes it good. Between the 2 seals, the trunk is harder to close (i have to be firmer) but zero smell and zero CO per the meter. i suspect a new truck seal alone would work, but mu trunk had come off a few times so adjustment might have been off..
  3. Thanks Mike, that was my first guess too. A pipe or the slave cylinder. Hard to see with traffic around but mucho fluid on the ground... I’ll report later!
  4. Paul, your drawing is really cool, I dig that style. I wish I could draw at all, let alone like you. Thanks for your incredibly helpful post, although I'll freely admit that once I had the car delivered to a shop on a fltbed, I'm not going to do that myself anymore. I would have, had I managed to get home but with limited brakes, a steep hill and that traffic, I did not risk it.... Curious, a breakage of this part would explain the "dead fish" floppy pedal, but would that break explain the loss of 1" of brake fluid on the reservoir and dripping hydraulic fluid on the floor ? (I'm clearly not familiar with the clutch MC, though i did replace a pipe there once...) I sense a hydraulic circuit inspection / revision in my future. Anyway, my wife has an amusing record... 20y ago my 356 died near the GGBridge and she was at the wheel (starter)... Later my Alfa GTV died and she was driving (electrical contact, I fixed that one before AAA showed up). Now the Bimmer mid town, blocking buses and 3 lanes of traffic (no pressure then!)... She's just not lucky with old cars. The 02 has been rock solid for me for over a decade. No biggie...
  5. She suffers total hydraulics failure. At the worst intersection in town. I mean that literally, absolute messiest busiest place, middle lane, bam... Clutch pedal to the floor, brake warning light, though brakes still worked... Fluid dripping under, brake fluid reservoir is low but not empty.... I went to retrieve it, I'd have driven it home w/o the clutch but given the mega traffic, I wasn't sure how many stops would be required and how much abuse starting in first gear would cause to get to my house... So I got it towed, after all that's why i have AAA - first time in 11y of ownership. She looks good on a flatbed too, except that bumper end I need to tweak !
  6. deschodt

    Odometer/Trip Odometer fix

    I did the above fixes and they worked for a while. Them I'd have to do it again. The good part is you get really good at it, cluster out in 2 minutes, apart in 3 more, back in the car in 2 minutes more. no way you can do that on a 911, say ! In the end, I paid the piper and had Hartmut at Palo alto speedo redo the ODO at the same time I had him recalibrate my fuel gauge. 2x1. Otherwise I'd have played with the gears as Mike indicated above, it's not all that hard but I was in for a penny, in for a pound. Very happy to have to all working again. Now the focus in on my fugly cracked dash.
  7. deschodt

    Brake booster delete master size?

    I know you know because you mentioned changing the MC to compensate... just chiming in because my mechanic once mistakenly put in a tii M/C in my non-tii car and my Booster died shortly after... All of a sudden braking took superhuman effort with that combo. It was rock hard and I had to stand in my seat to stop 😉 When you find a combo that works, please let us know ! Good boosters are disappearing fast.
  8. To close this out, I bought a new Ansa for a tad over $200. Only differences being the orientation of one of the mounting tabs and some coating (which bit me). Uninstalling the old exhaust by pulling it off was impossible - it felt heat welded in place by the crud and would not come off. I had to cut it off and then tried to dremel a cut into the overlapping metal. Hard to do from under the car. I ended up removing the entire exhaust line, and once out of the car I could dremel the overlapping leftover carefully and chisel/tease it out. No picnic either. Then the new muffler would still not fit on the old line. Had to sand the old line super smooth and then some, and the new muffler's inside also (that coating!!!).. By Dremel, by hand, you name it. Eventually, perfect fit, though the mounting tab by the diff makes the line hangs a bit too low and contact the subframe. I ordered rubberized clamps that are smaller than the BMW hangers and that plastic piece that goes inside the hanger and on the exhaust tab, to get that 1/4" clearance back and we're good. The Ansa sounds really good.
  9. I gotta admit that surprised me... The muffler was not particularly rusty nor did it give any warning. At it still sounds pretty good ! I noticed the tail pipes sticking up and wow, total separation ! Ansa, at least 11 y old, no complaints..... My Q is am I better off replacing with another Ansa (I like the noise actually ) so that I can replace only the broken part? Or can I splice in ANY other muffler - I mean, are the pipes before the muffler different from one brand to another ? I ask because while surfing for mufflers the Ansa for instance seems to have more pipe pre-muffler thna a stock one, so looks like the fitment might be off.. Also this is center tips as is, and I am also fine with a normal side tip (single) for looks (the notch looks silly unused), but I am afraid stock sounds super discrete... And no idea if I need to replace more of the exhaust line if I switch... sorry, zero experience with 2002 mufflers, I've had this muffler as long as I've had the car 😉
  10. Edit: It's like I've got a turbo now... Smoother overall, but mostly the throttle linkage fix restored full throttle and took out all slop... I would not be surprised if I blow the motor now because it runs at near full power again and it's no longer used to it 😉
  11. You don't say !! I find it particularly impressive that the car ran at all, and it ran pretty well. The 2 with bakelite bits were like that, the other 2 were much cleaner... I guess that's what 11 y plugs in an older leakier engine look like ? I lucked into a set of Autolite AP64 that are compatible (I wonder why I had those, maybe from my ex-912) - I'll go buy the proper NGK later, but compared to what I had above, even the worst plastinum plugs should perform better 😉 Between that and my throttle linkage mods this week, can't wait to find out how it runs !
  12. Thinking my car was due for spark plugs, I attempted to pull them somewhat unsuccessfully: 1 and 3 were A-Ok with a 13/16 socket in seconds. 2-4 were like "nope", nah-ha... not today... I knew it wasn't me since I got 2 out... Enter the $30 endoscope I bought online to check my kid's ear wax/ear infections. It kinda sucked at that if I'm honest due to lack of focal length adjustment, but to check spark plugs, it's a wonder... Found pieces of bakelite from the connectors on those 2.. Had to go fishing with a tweezers in one hand and endoscope, demonstrating to the world I should have been a world class surgeon ! 😉 Some came out, some were just loosened and shot out with a blast of compressed air ! 15 min later, victory.... Got to the plugs, and figured out the 2 that were easily accessed were like new, the other 2 probably have been here for over 10 years because mechanics also could not put a wrench on them and didn't bother... good to know if you want a job done you should do it yourself.... Check out the ugliness... The car should run better tomorrow when I get replacements !
  13. ^ Very nice. For now, proof of concept, I have "fixed" it... I relocated some EFI related stuff elsewhere and moved the spring straight above the lever. That gave me back lever movement and full pedal travel... But also a giant amount of slop since the groove in the the TB bracket (pic 2 above) was too deep and too far to contact the pin immediately. I then inserted a small bolt with washers and double nut (on the side where it cannot touch the rod and jam). The washers stick out and allow pin contact way earlier... Wow... Full pedal (the spring complains a bit for now), and almost full throttle opening at the TB (90% I'd say - I'm not sure how far I should go opening the TB honestly, full extension OK?) That's proof of concept... I need to drive it a bit like that.... if it's good I'll weld that groove shut instead, maybe find a better spring too. Then mull over a cable system...
  14. I'm not against that at all, but it's not a simple deal.. Is there some sort of common conversion kit I can buy to start over ? Anyway, now I understand the problem at least... Dunno how I lived with it like that for so long!
  15. Ok so now I fully understand the problem... Basically *Crap* engineering from the start from the mechanic who did that... It may be hard to understand on cropped pictures, hopefully you get what I'm saying below... Look at Pic 1: The gas pedal movement inside car pushes/pulls on that "bent rod" on the pic below... That bent rod moves that "lever with 3 holes" that rotates the "rod to throttle body" tube....(I tried all positions, all suck for different reasons) At the other end of that rotating tube, (pic 2) the rotating "rod to throttle body"tube has a pin that contacts a makeshift welded bracket that in turn makes the TB open/turn... Forgive my nomenclature here, I did not learn engineering in english... Problems are several fold: - That spring on the lever is positioned wrong right over the DTA ECU and makes it so the lever is more or less horizontal at rest. For the gas pedal to be fully UP in the car (and restore full pedal travel), the lever would need to rotate higher up (see pic 3, "note angle of lever"). But if it does, look at the "slack" at the other end, the pin is nowhere near the bracket, so there is a lot of slop and 25% pedal travel wasted... - The leftover pedal travel (plus that dumb spring placement) is then insufficient for the lever to ever travel downwards enough to get full tube rotation/TB actuation... - Seems like I should: a) reposition the spring directly above the lever (not to the side like now) to allow resting lever position to be near vertical (full pedal travel) - hard to do, there's some EFI sensor there... b) cut off and reweld that "TB bracket" half so it makes contact with the pin in that upper lever position, taking down the slack. c) that should get me full pedal deflection again, and ability to reach full TB opening (adjust as necessary to not go too far and put pressure on the TB mechanism) - OR: ditch that whole $#%$#% mess and start over... You guys use cables... this is all rods.. and crap... More thoughts ?