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deschodt

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  1. You'll be happier with this one... I had a GTV and a 2002 sharing a garage, and while there is no doubt in my mind the GTV is prettier and look more special, the 2002 is by far way more fun and comfortable to drive, all the time... just thinking of the Alfa (now sold) and my sciatica flares up... can't imagine who came up with that driving position...
  2. Every classic car belongs somewhere on a "Fun / Cost" chart. At some point they jump the shark for some people, that point varies based on whether you used to have one and back then it cost next to nothing, or you never had one and now you have $$$ and want one... Also we tend to record "the price of things" at a static point in our past and have a hard time moving from there. Personally I could never pay $100K for a 75 hp porsche 356A that I then bought for $10K (and sold for 15 - idiot) back then... I want one again, but not at that price, ever. Some of you will *never* stomach $35-45K for a nice TII that used to be $5K. And yet here we are... Hell, a new 3 series Bimmer is still 25K in my head - it's more like 45 nowadays. All I can conclusively tell you is a) like you I am annoyed at that escalation regarding cars I cannot buy b) in contradiction I sank so much $ in my 2002 I am glad to see it worth something, and more cars worth restoring c) having owned multiple "now expensive" Porsches I can tell you the BMW 2002 100% DESERVES to be in the same group of appreciating cars. $ for $ it's always been more fun than the above Porsches or what have you... If an early 911 is now $70-200K based on model (T E or S) a 2002 is fine shape is totally worth 30+ now - more for a Tii... Electrification might make this worse - I can see an electrified future where gas cars are forbidden in cities and yet people keep one stick shift classic that makes vroom vroom noises - regardless of expense/laws, and the price goes even higher...
  3. And does that makes it flow better and not spit gas back ? I'd have thought the angle of that rubber piece is the problem and remains a problem, and you might spill inside your trunk.. So you attached the rubber filler back to the gas cap collar and it just flops around there not attached to anything solid? Yeah please post a pic, I'm curious as to how that setup works...
  4. Still can't figure out file attachment in the body of the text here... Sorry... I've been meaning to buy this since I spotted http://www.kooglewerks.com/ accidentally on this board... Finally did, took about 3 weeks to get to me because it is handmade... This is not a complete report yet because the main goal was to stop the fuel pump "burp / reflux" into my 2002, and the filler extension I had bought never completely cured it - though it was better. And I still have not refilled ironically, just finished this last night !!! Report in another post later today. So I ordered the kit from Kooglewerks... It's not cheap at $500 and I know 2002'ers are cheap bastards, me included, but look at the craftsmanship ! The formed receptable, the gorgeous welds, The added initials of the maker, hell the thing came in a wooden box !! Who does that anymore ? I applaud the owner for his skills and high standards... Installation was a little sucky, but it is not the kit's fault, it's par for the course in my case... The issues I had were because I left the outside gas cap installed for a stock look, so I had to align everything properly: the new filler to the trunk "plate" to the gasket to the metal ring attaching the old gas cap, which is a lot of crap to align properly - and it only goes one way which is no longer obvious after your pudgy fingers drop one piece of the puzzle 3 times because there is no space there 😉 After cleaning up years of grime of the gas cap inner ring and re-gluing the now useless gasket, I cut up some coat hanger to make 4 straight pins to align the puzzle pieces properly allowing it to be screwed on without swearing at it. My lower back wishes I'd thought of that 15 min earlier... The other fun bit is the rubber coupler between the 2 pipes - it is is EXACTLY the right size and needs to be for safety, and it will not go on easy without lots of efforts and lube, lots of lube... I also had to copiously sand the tank filler neck and that helped a lot. At first I feared some misalignment and potential necessary cuts to the filler neck (pic5) but once everything is tightened properly the alignment is actually much better than on that picture. Can't show you because it's under the rubber connection now. Looks good - proper hand made/welded piece of kit right there, I will fill up tonight and hopefully report success !!! I know I need to beautify my trunk at little...
  5. I've sold my Alfa there recently... it did *VERY* well - 25% over what I'd have asked privately . Good site to sell, not to buy IMO. Things of note in my experience as a seller: - BaT are slow. It will take time to submit your car. When accepted, more time to post your car. Could be a month between when you decide and when it goes FS. Also the write up is theirs, not yours, and sometimes misses stuff you think is important...So stay on top of it. - The peanut gallery is savage. If you put a car with issues there, it will get picked apart. It takes a lot patience to answer ALL the questions politely, and there will be really stupid questions (answered in the description or showing lack of basic comprehension). It's your job to not say "RTFM" but re-explain and not be snarky about it. The more engaged and responsive you are, the better. One guy said my bumper was crooked... Took all I had not to reply "send me a picture of your face, your eyes are crooked" - instead I sent pics of bumper measurements *proving* his face was crooked but never called him on it 😉 - You cease to exist to BaT after the auction is done. The buyer could not pay, lie, cheat, they don't care. at best you get your fee back and lost a month. They never even contacted me back after I emailed and called regarding buyer issues. It worked out in the end but they offer zilch for support post sale. Oh, before the auction, they email you and even try to negociate your reserve price downwards (!!) - which you do not have to agree to, but after, you cease to exist. There is no ranking for buyers like for commenters, so standard protection mechanisms apply. If the car is nice and you step to the plate, it will do $$$$$. If it's so-so and you are honest about it, it'll do OK too. If you try to hide something, you'll get trampled. I've seen it, kinda fun sometimes... Be honest and present and you will do better than private sale, if you have the time and will to go through it. It's a rush at auction end. PS: fix the damn oil leak and keep the car
  6. Happy to buy the fuel sender from you.... Email for paypal or... ???  Thanks ! 

    1. conkitchen

      conkitchen

      My Paypal is marczak1@comcast.net.

       

      It should fit in a flat rate USPS box which  costs 13.60. 

       

      Please send funds as family or gift and I'll get the item out this weekend. 

       

      Regards,

       

      Marc 

    2. deschodt

      deschodt

      Done, you're now my long lost cousin ;-)  Thanks ! 

    3. conkitchen

      conkitchen

      Cool thanks,

      If you wish, I can shoot you some images to confirm it's what you want this weekend. 

      Send me a text at 925-437-8877 to remind me too and I'll reply with the pics. 

  7. thanks guys... Here's where we're at: The initial problem was not that the pedal was harder than before. It's that all of a sudden after the pedal cluster refurb and height adjustment, the brake pedal had much longer travel before actually braking, and then after a few stop-go in traffic (which presumably caused me to pump the brakes on off within a short period, so like pumping them) it would give me back my normal "harder" pedal... In both cases the car braked fine, but the changing behavior was not reassuring... Odd coincidence? Anything is possible... Took it back to the shop... I got it back yesterday but not fixed - they know that (just wanted the car out of there for a week for space reason)... They suspected the booster as well ( I find it odd this broke just after my pedal was readjusted but it's a 44y old car so I let it go), said they peeked at it and it looked fine - not contaminated by M/C leaking - valve was the right way etc... Has to be, it was OK for the past 9yrs, it's not like the valve reversed itself... What they did was replace the MC to begin with, which again I'm OK with (old car, no idea when it was done last, good start point but not cheap). Now this is a Tii M/C and my car is not a Tii, I wonder if that can be an issue or not (my car has one new front caliper, one old, and rears are a transplant from a 320 I think - sadly this was done while my wife was giving birth and I have no record of the work)... Always braked fine and straight before the pedal cluster R&R. As of today the pedal is ROCK hard with minimal travel. Still brakes straight but poorly. That's reassuring on one hand - it's consistent now, but I am no longer capable of locking the wheels... Maybe I could if I got the seat close and braced myself to push, but in normal mode the car brakes so-so and the pedal is rock solid.... It's driveable normally, but not good in an emergency braking situation - so I parked it. They are looking for a new booster for me... Hard to find it seems. Sounds reasonable... Feels very unboosted ! I will examine the booster line and the valve and suck on it as indicated above... Noteworthy: the car is fuel injected - has been for past 8 yrs, and the booster goes to the manifold via a custom line (which apparently is good but I will recheck). I posted a pic, sorry it's the only I have as I post this, ignore the alfa engine (if you can, so pretty)... Qs for you experts: All coincidence? Booster sounds right ? (does to me). Will a Tii M/C be an issue? (I don't mind harder feel as long as I can lock wheels normally. Even if it take more effort, but this is not right). What else might it be? Seized caliper ? They rebled it all, there's no air in that circuit, I'd think they'd have noticed a frozen caliper while bleeding... Right now I'm a little frustrated about throwing $ at it and get it undriveable, but I'm sure it'll be good in the end.... not cheap though...
  8. The thing is the extra travel was sold to me as "how it should be set".... How much travel do you get at the pedal before it brakes soft/hard normally? I was wondering about the booster too, because I did not get a chance to test hard braking when the pedal went hard (traffic)... Could be I lost boost, then it came back, then away again ? The outside of the booster looks very U-boot like ;-( I will bleed it but before, whenever it needed bleeding it was a consistently long pedal travel (that you could maybe firm up by pumping the pedal)... this time it goes back and forth ? seems to do it all by itself, and it went back to soft at some point... Maybe the traffic stop/go made me pump it without realizing it... Still, I did hear a noise a few times around the pedal cluster and chalked it off to the clutch pedal spring releasing or something, could not look and drive at the same time... I think there is something fishy going on down there too.... Thanks !!!
  9. Got my car back after (among other things) some pedal cluster refurbishing. They said something about resetting brake pedal travel while in there... The pedal felt different than before, longer travel before it actually braked hard, but I figured maybe that was the normal way and I had it set wrong before.. I tested that I could lock the wheels - all good, figured I'd get used to it... Today I drove the car to work - 30 min, 1/2 freeway + 1/2 city. Once in the city after a few traffic lights, the brake pedal went HARD. Kinda like it used to be I think (hard to recall now, I was just getting used to the new longer travel feel). Still brakes, but required more effort, and had zero initial travel. Then, 2 lights later, back to the "new" pedal": at least 1" travel and softer feel, still braking OK.... Then a little later, back to HARD, zero initial travel.... All the way to work... What am I looking at ? I don't know/believe anything was bled (clutch pedal was rebushed and brake travel reset AFAIK). Is that a symptom of some air in the system ? But on and off ??? Master cylinder going bad ??? Not losing fluid, full reservoir, and it still brakes - but that variable pedal feel I do not like....
  10. Ok so here's where we are at.... Tranny bushings are fine, no contact to the steering parts... The engine mount was too harsh, urethane or something, got a proper mount installed....The metal under the mount is not cracked. The vibration is less, but the steering wheel still vibrates at engine rpm. 3000 seems to be the best/worst resonance... Any other clever ideas ?? I'm struggling with "what changed"... Had that mount for 5 years... The thing is, it could have been doing this a while, I only recently reinstalled the stock wheel after years with a smaller / thicker MOMO, so I feel everything more sharply with the factory spaghetti wheel... Also the bimmer had been in storage unused for 3 weeks when I picked up on that vibe - I wondered if I had forgotten about it maybe, but it seems very buzzy... And it's not something you'd pick up on in town much, but I was getting numb hands after longer freeway drives (new also, car is now reliable enough to take to work so I do!!!). Again it's 100% not wheel balancing, it happens at a dead stop, just revving... Isn't there a bushing elsewhere that insulates the steering from engine RPM vibrations ? Anything ??? That engine was never the smoothest but JP says it's within acceptable parameters ;-) He looked and the engine does not touch anything - even at idle which is where it moves most. At 3000 its actually quite smooth... Weird..... One for Mike Self maybe ;-)
  11. JP showed me the likely problem before even looking at my car, on one that was on the lift.. Tranny rests a cm from the steering mechanism and I betcha my tranny suffers from saggy mounts... most likely a cheap and quick fix, so I found him other stuff to do ! Should get my car back soon, excited !!!!
  12. he he... the car is parked offsite currently, and the lift is at my house... I'll look this w/e unless JP takes pity on me and grabs it tomorrow... It is an odd one... I have a DTA computer in there for EFI that makes it really hard to see anything by the steering box ;-)
  13. Thanks guys... All of this sounds fairly expensive but make sense... Clutch feels OK, I have no idea which it is as that was done 9yrs ago (but not that many miles and I'm gentle on clutches) when the car got a 5 speed before I even picked it up... Clutch master cylinder was recently redone after the hose fell off and the cylinder looked too nasty to just reuse... Can't say it feels any different from it ever did, just that 2nd gear -only- is getting notchier than ever but that's syncros... IMO the car always had too much engine side to side motion upon startup or idle, despite new engine mounts, always struck me as funny but nothing was ever felt in the car and it's been that way for a long time... would not be surprised if it is that cracked metal mount.. I parked it until JP @A1 can look at it but I need to put it on a lift and look under the car before I take it there... Thanks for the hints !
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