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kaptanoglu

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  1. kaptanoglu

    2780974

    The car • 1974 BMW 2002tii • 2 liter engine with mechanical fuel injection • One of less than 45,000 tii’s produced worldwide, and less than 7,500 imported into the US • Family owned since new • Trunk mounted tool box hand carved by Ralph Kelly, the original owner, from Pau Ferro (Brazilian ironwood) The restoration • Bare metal restoration 2013 - 2014 • Design brief - look stock, but better; feel stock, but faster • Picked up in April 2014 and driven over 1,000 miles from Libertyville, IL to Houston, TX, with a stop in Eureka Springs, AR for the annual MidAmerican ’02 Fest Today • Daily driven in Austin • Over 18,000 miles since the restoration was completed
  2. A few notes from having done this this weekend with a kit from Ireland Engineering. First, I am generally willing to pay up for new parts to avoid having to go to the junkyard, so I got the prefabbed kit - http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/02bbk06.html While I have had good luck with IE in the past, I was a bit disappointed with the generic pads that were included and really, really disappointed that they didn't get the hardware in the box (They did get them here the next week). After some searching around (including here on the forum), I ended up ordering some RS4s (and fronts, too) from Porterfield (rear for 250mm - https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=4013) (front for tii - https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=3506) Motivated by a desire for no rust behind the Panasports, I opted to paint the drums as well, using Rustoleum flat BBQ paint. While not necessary, I masked off the center circle where it will meet with the wheel (It just seemed correct to do it that way). A couple quick things I learned the hard way: The pins for the retainer clips, on my car at least, needed to go in before the backing plate was mounted (or, in my case, remounted) Like others (me, being me, I discovered others after I battled this myself), I had to file the inside of the e-brake notch to get the drum over the pads. With all the power stuff I have, this was done manually, and after 30+ years of driving a desk, my arms were not fully prepared. [pic - filed notch with unaltered one for comparison]. I was nervous about overdoing it with the file and took them on and off a ton of times. A tip as a result - a 90 degree pick is a great way to get the various springs off (and the retainer springs back on). I figured this out after about 1000 times using lesser means. A couple things a learned the easy way: Impact gun > breaker bar (https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2763-22). Getting the castle nut off the rears was no problem. Also handy for rotor retraining bolts in the front. Impact socket > regular socket (https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2668-20). Very handy for caliper bolts. You can always use another torque wrench [Armstrong 400 ft-lb 3/4" drive from a pawn shop - free to loan to any Texas people (or others in the neighborhood] I am going to drive a couple days and readjust the rears after they bed in a bit better, but so far, so good.
  3. until
    Below is the note from Terry from a few weeks ago. I saw it wasn't posted here, and wanted to put it up. Also, if you are coming from Houston, I am driving out to Fredricksburg through Lockart for some pretty curves and some great BBQ. Ping me separately if you would like to join Terry's drive via Houston. Best, J //////////////////////////////// Yup, you guessed it….we're only a few weeks away from the Spring Texas 02berfest! Coming up soon to a Fredericksburg near you! March 22-25, 2018 at the Peach Tree Inn in Fredericksburg Texas---make your reservations NOW because the Peach Tree people want to sell our rooms to somebody else. This will be our second expanded schedule event---we will be caravanning to Fredericksburg on Thursday, March 22, on our usual back roads route. Friday will again be our "culture day"---limited driving, but Museum tours, socializing, and good food. Sarurday is our driving day, during which we will have a great time on the Hill Country roads around Fredericksburg and Kerrville---again, of course, with socializing and good food! Sunday breakfast together will finish off the exciting weekend. This will probably be the biggest one yet---our extended family keeps getting bigger! REMEMBER---call the Peach Tree NOW to reserve your rooms See you soon--Terry
  4. I think I would like to push it out to early Fall. I haven't been able to do proper route planning yet, and don't want a fiasco. Let's start looking at late Sept/early Oct that doesn't conflict with Terry's Fall drive. J
  5. No answers here, but you had me at "mission creep". I wasnt sure why you tried to pull the KFish pully, as that seemed to be where things went properly pear shaped on you. Good tip on the fuel return line, though male end of mine is metal IIRC. I've pulled the #1 runner quite a few times when I was messing w the v-screw a couple years ago. Getting the bottom nuts on/off on a hot engine is also a bag of fun. I wish I could offer more than just encouragement, but that's all I've got. PS - +1 on the cordless impact socket
  6. Let's do a drive I would like to get the Houston-based '02s (and anyone else who would like to join) out for a one-day drive in late May or early June (targeting May 27, 28 or June 3 or 4). I would like to put together a 3 - 5 hour loop through some of the country roads N and W of Houston, with a lunch break in the middle. So, please do me a few favors: - Let me know if one day is better (or worse) than the others - Let me know roads that would be good choices for the route - Let me know who we might want to reach out to to join in - Let me know if it would be more (or less) fun to make it a poker rally or just keep it a group drive
  7. 130" seems like plenty. I worked on Sputter on Haas's MaxJax here in town, and his was also spaced for a 911. His are spaced at 132" (104" inside to inside + 2 x 14" per base), and it was a bit of a pita just to get to the rail jack points, and could not get to the preferred ones further inboard (IIRC). He suggested that his were pretty wide for an '02, and would recommend no more than 130". It seems that I could go 125" - 130", and have plenty of reach on the '02, and still potentially be able to jam the truck on.
  8. Thanks. That would be plenty wide for everything. Any issues getting to good lifting points on the '02?
  9. I can tell you in a week or two if 12000 is "enough" when we have insulation/radiant barrier in the attic. I suspect that will be as big a driver as square footage. The unit came precharged, but I could not find a loaner vacuum set-up that fit the fittings, so I paid a guy to pull the vacuum for me (and he had to buy an adapter at the AC supply shop even then). The first guy I asked did it (for ~$100), so I'd keep checking with folks. If you get a Senville (which ran <$1000, including a wifi controller), I will sell the adapter for a six pack (as long as you'll sell it back to me for the same price if I need it down the line). My sons and I did the installation, and it is pretty straightforward (YouTube is a boon for crap like this). We did pour a slab for it, and ran the plumbing inside the wall, since the garage was previously unfinished. The only involved step is running the 220v to the unit, but Son 1 runs wire for a living, so...
  10. Thanks. That's just the kind of advice I was looking for. I also note that we share the same taste in epoxy colors.
  11. Do you recall what spacing you ultimately chose?
  12. Nope. It turns out there are a few folks down here in the swampy hellscape that is Houston that add AC, and the door makes sense. I got a 12,000btu Senville (https://senville.com/air-conditioners/12000-btu-aura/). I chose the size based on searching the Garage Journal and online calculators. Attic insulation goes in Wed, so I will have a better read on whether 12,000 btu is enough, but it should be. I chose the Senville based on price. It was well reviewed and a ton cheaper than the Mitsubishi (leading brand), and seemed easy enough to DIY (providing the 220v wiring isn't a problem). We wanted flush mounts for aesthetics. In actuality, I have 9 cans over the body of the garage (at 10.5 feet) at 1000 lumens each, and 4 direct electrical box connected lights below the loft at 750 lumens each, since the loft was too shallow for the full can bucket size, so we have 12,000 lumens in a 440 sq ft garage. They are on three switches, with 4 of the cans tied to a motion sensor (so they go on when the garage door opens), 5 on a switch, and the 4 under the loft on a separate switch. I told my son (an electrician) who helped design it that I wanted it bright with just the 4, but with everything on, I wanted to be able to find a contact lens. With the dispersed placement, it is plenty diffuse. I have done a lot of work in the garage with that lighting (so far, mostly carpentry and charcuterie), and it is plenty bright in there, though not "aircraft landing" bright. The garage door does obstruct the first 3 when open, though the engine bay of a car would be on the other end. The pine was my wife's idea, and I found the "blue pine" when I was looking for supply of "normal" pine tongue in groove. It turns out that the Mountain Pine Beetle has killed a lot of trees, and that wood makes pretty lousy framing material, but really pretty paneling - http://www.sustainablelumberco.com/2014/03/the-biology-behind-blue-stain-in-beetle-kill-pine/. Bonus points that the blue and grey character goes both with the epoxy floor and with our cars. The only problem now is that it ended up too pretty to be a garage, and I may not get to stuff as much stuff in it.
  13. Fair point. I have a neighbor with a TR4, so it would be good if I could stretch to cover him as well. I hear that they sometimes need work, too.
  14. You just need to add some really hot parts to be a "John Hates This" combo. Inaccessible small screws are the worst!
  15. The Graj Mahal is coming together, and it is about time to get the lift in. I am pretty locked in on a MaxJax, based on the portability (small 2-car garage) and lift height (not small, myself). While I will primarily wrenching on the '02, I'd like to also be able to work on other, larger vehicles as well and am looking to benefit from the experience of others that have installed the MaxJax in their garage.... so here are the questions: What is the ideal spacing between the posts if the 2002 is the only car?... and at that spacing, where do the posts line up with the car lengthwise (for planning of fore and aft?) What do you think is the widest you could go and still have it work well for a 2002? Should I just put down multiple anchor points so that I can "have it all"? Data points: 2002tii - 64" wide (with lift points even further inboard) X5 - 76" wide Ram 1500 truck - 79" wide MaxJax recommendations: TIA, J
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