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About kaptanoglu

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Austin, TX

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  1. I have no opinion on pricing, but wanted to chip in that Steve did a full rebuild on Sputter's engine, and I was very happy with his work. He is also communicative and it got done on schedule, both of which are worth quite a bit to me. Here are his images of the rebuild (and you can see a lot more of his work on his Flickr) -
  2. kaptanoglu

    What did you do to your 2002 today !

    With a lot of help (and a lift and welding gear) from Barney, I rewelded the rear exhaust hanger on Sputter. In the process, we found that the second rearmost hanger had ripped off the front of the muffler, and that the welds at the bottom of the exhaust pipe just down from the headed had cracked as well. They are are now all fixed up, albeit with very ugly welds.
  3. kaptanoglu

    1974 BMW 2002tii

    The VIN plate identifies it as a 1602. Since it badged as a 2002tii, is advertised as a 2002ti, and is clearly neither of those, I’d stay away. I try to find honest sellers when I buy a can inspect in person. For one like this, it would be tough to judge.
  4. I found that article useful but not suficient. Being a charging system noob, Hack’s step by step worked for me a little better. I suspect that I got more out Rob’s article because I had read the other one several times as well. The brushes were definately toast, but with one of them having fallen out of the regulator, I didnt think I would be able to fish the broken brush out of the old alternator, and wasn’t willing to go through the exercise of pulling it, shaking it out and replacing it when I had a new one sitting on the floor (at least not at that hour). Two days later, I got to do a Show and Shine with my f-i-l at COTA, and it all ran like a champ.
  5. kaptanoglu


    The car • 1974 BMW 2002tii • 2 liter engine with mechanical fuel injection • One of less than 45,000 tii’s produced worldwide, and less than 7,500 imported into the US • Family owned since new • Trunk mounted tool box hand carved by Ralph Kelly, the original owner, from Pau Ferro (Brazilian ironwood) The restoration • Bare metal restoration 2013 - 2014 • Design brief - look stock, but better; feel stock, but faster • Picked up in April 2014 and driven over 1,000 miles from Libertyville, IL to Houston, TX, with a stop in Eureka Springs, AR for the annual MidAmerican ’02 Fest Today • Daily driven in Austin • Over 18,000 miles since the restoration was completed
  6. VICTORY! It was a bit of an ordeal, but I took a few pictures (for your schadenfreude). But first, a correction It turns out that this "headless bolt" is actually then end of one of the bolts that holds the case together (one of four), and is just a bit longer than the other three. Picking which corner to put the longer bolt on the new alternator plays into our plot later. Summary to this point Wednesday PM was a "three jump start" drive home from work Battery dead - replaced No alternator "L" dash light diagnosis performed - either alternator, brushes or regulator dead (note, brushes and regulator part of same assembly on a 320i alternator) Why I was so panicked The SVRA national championship is this weekend at COTA (https://svra.com/events/2018-us-vintage-national-championship/), and they are having a Show and Shine. Participating in the Show and Shine gets you a couple of parade laps in your car on the track (yippee!) Sputter has been running great, so I invited my father-in-law, the original owner of Sputter, to join me, and he is travelling up from Houston for this event Having the battery drain up the front straight, going uuuuuuuppp hiiiillll in front of the Grandstands would be no bueno. Last night Disclaimer - Just because this worked doesn't mean you should do it 1) New (rebuilt) alternator purchased - Note that the tii mounting bracket is different from a normal 2002 or a 320i. You can either (a) change out the mounting bracket to the engine (I didn't have one and didn't have time to get one), (b) fabricate a spacer to fill the gap (about 1") (I didn't have one ...) or (c) swap out the front of the alternator case from the old one (which is what had been done with the dead one before, which is why I still have a tii bracket) 2) Check to see if it is just the regulator, saving me the hassle of disassembling both an alternator and half the car to get the old one out and new one in. The old one certainly looks dead, but I wasn't optimistic that the brush part bouncing around in the old alternator wouldn't be a problem, so, new one is going in. 3) Take out the old alternator. This involves (a) taking off the oil filter because the top bolt is so long, (b) unhooking (but not fully removing) the front sway bar (including the front mounts) and (c) jiggling and rotating it because it juuuuust barely fits between the unhooked swaybar, the oil pan and the air dam. It is possible that some coarse language was used during this process. 4) Swap out the front of the case between the old and new alternators. A few things that kept this from being a disaster I took the regulator off because I would have the back of the alternator on the ground while messing with it, and didn't want to bust it. I marked the orientation of the front and back cases with a Sharpie before I disassembled, and also marked which one would be the ground (the long bolt) based on where my ground strap was I used the hammer drill setting on my cordless drill to pull out the bolts on the new alternator (after I boogered one up using a hand screwdriver) I used a puller to get the case off instead of beating on it with a hammer. 5) Installation is the reverse of removal 6) Reassemble the rest of the car New oil filter (I had put a quart of oil on the windshield as a reminder) Reattach the sway bar Reinstall the battery (to be done) Reinstall all the under dash panels from when I was pulling out the instrument cluster testing the L light 7) Test! I finished up by swapping my steelies onto Sputter since I had one end in the air already, took a shower (laying under your swaybar + impact tools = you need a shower), and tucked in at 12:30AM (again). Now I just need to reinstall the interior panels and finally clean the car. I am a long way from the "Shine" part of "Show and Shine"
  7. There is a headless bolt that screws into the back of the alternator (and seems to be able to be moved) to which you attach the ground strap to the block. I DID check the voltage of the ground strap (off the car), and tightened the bolts, but did not test continuity in situ. I will do so tonight. I have an internally regulated alternator (320i). According to Mr. H. Mechanic, you need the lamp circuit to excite it. I was working off of his articles last night (late), and ordered the book today. In any event, it appears that the alternator is grounded enough that it has battery voltage across it when the car is running, and dead enough that Hack's excitation jumper trick didn't wake it up. My last hope is that swapping out the regulator/brushes will work, but I suspect that more intensive surgery is required. More pics and stories tonight!
  8. For a daily driver where it rains (as is the case with me), I was unable to find 13" tires that met my desire for grip. I run 15x6 Panasports, and, though they were the right offset, had to have a bit machined off of the inner face for them to fit. Here is a recent thread re my tire selection. As a wrap up, I am very happy with the Conti's that I am running: On the other hand, if you drive in the dry, there are a lot of other options.
  9. That is good advice, and echos what I got from another (reliable) source. I bought a new alternator earlier today, and will swap out the regulator before I do all the extractions work (sway bar removal, etc.).
  10. kaptanoglu

    Anyone have an alternator in Austin?

    Thanks. It turns out Terry has one (or can order one) so I think I’m good.
  11. Long version - Short version - Sputter’s alternator appears to be dead, and I want to be able to do the COTA thing on Sat. Does anyone in town have a 320i alternator in Austin I could buy?
  12. Update I was really too beat to work on the car, but in the course of my digging, came across this excellent article written by our Hack Mechanic: https://www.bmwcca.org/roundel/bmw-2002-charging-system-diagnostics As I’ve written, I don’t have the “L” light coming on, so I clicked through to this one. https://www.bmwcca.org/roundel/troubleshooting-alternator-warning-light Below are my trevails in going through his diagnostic process (Note - My comments are not a “how to”. Follow the links for that) See if the bulb works - For this, I found a nice write up here on the FAQ It is worth noting that I have the hands of a strangler, and getting the speedo cable off was no easy task (or getting it back on. Result - bulb works (Underdash panels still not reattached. Gotta find/fix the problem) Check the D+ wire. Result - wire good Jump D+ wire to ground. Result - light goes on. Likely culprit - Bad ground to alternator (as predicted by everyone here) Test ground strap - Bolt on alternator was a little loose, and I was feeling some hope. I pulled the strap and tested it (it was good). I cleaned the ends and reattached. Result - no light, no charging Last resort, try jumping the D+ wire briefly to batterty + (when running) to jump start the alternator. Result - Nada Now I am back to square one, but am now more confident that the alternator is toast, and not something else. More experiments tomorrow on grounding, but given tonight’s efforts, it isn’t hopeful.
  13. More info (and nothing good) I got it back up on jack stands andd here’s what I found: Battery when off - 11.95v Battery when running - 11.82v Alternator B+ to ground bolt - 11.8x That tells me (I think) that the connections are good, but the alternator is bad. Other things of note: After looking at the Blue Book (and the image of the back of an ‘02 alternator), I believe that the blue wire is in the correct hole of the three-hole connector The “L” light still doesn’t light when the ignition is on. I really can’t remember if it ver has. Questions If the blue wire is connected correctly, could a dead “L” bulb really kill the whole thing? If not, does that mean my alternator is toast? If it is toast, what is the best bet for an alternator?
  14. 12.41v off, 12.25 at idle Good to know that it does something (and that I have it properly connected now). It had a habit of falling off, and is much tighter now. That being said, since I am not getting an "L" light, it is possible that the bulb is bad (irritating with a newish resto), that the blue wire is plugged into the wrong socket on the harness (likely given the other issues that I've seen - advice on this appreciated), or that the alternator is not quite dead enough to light it. On it. Good plug. Checking the grounding is next. If my YouTube perusal is correct, I should be able to run the voltmeter between the "B+" (charging) terminal on the alternator and the case and get 14+ volts (if it is working), and if I am still getting 12.25v across the battery terminals either (i) my alternator ground is bad or (ii) my alternator positive path to the battery is bad. I am headed home shortly and will fish around. FWIW, doing this on a tii is a bit more of a PITA.
  15. I believe just +. It looks like D+ goes to the warming light. FWIW, I now have it plugged in there. However, with my most recent reading, I was expecting to see the alternator light lit upon startup, but the only one I get is the oil light.