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Mucci

Solex
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  1. The interior is mostly gutted aside from the dash. I haven't yet stripped the roof (and the previous owner flat blacked it) but you can see just behind the sunroof it's bubbling up. I'm not sure yet how bad it is under there.
  2. Mine looks decent from the top, but on the underside it's flaking off in chunks. This is why I ask.
  3. He's not willing to part it and $1200 is a lot for a roof. I'd feel bad chopping it from a decent shell.
  4. I'm looking for a sunroof model ideally.
  5. Is the headliner taken out? Can you see what the underside looks like?
  6. Unfortunately all the panels look decent except the roof! Looks like the paint is flaking and rusting.
  7. That does look like exactly what I need but 11 hrs one way is quite a hike.
  8. Might be interested in the chassis. I'm in Portland. Sent you a PM.
  9. I was thinking the same thing. I bought it as an ugly runner that someone definitely dumped a bottle of bleach into - I had assumed due to some sort of water leak / mold issue. This pretty much confirms that. What once was Taiga shall return to Taiga! On top of aerosol flat blacking the exterior the previous owner also reupholstered the interior bright red and bondo'd up all the trim holes. There will be much restoration in this project...
  10. Although it does appear to be mostly just the skin that's affected, chopping the full roof at the pillars seems way easier. Having to drill out and reweld a million spot welds then grind them all smooth looks like a real pain in the ass. What's the benefit to doing that? I just saw some neat structural tips in a YouTube video where the guy sliced the outer pillar skin at one spot then the inner about 4" lower. He did the inverse to the donor car that way your weld seams aren't on the same plane. He also made a sleeve that fit inside the pillars and welded through to it a couple inches above and below the main weld. Thought that was neat. Here's my infection. The driver's side inner structure looks good but the passenger side is rusty. I wonder if the drip rail was clogged up over there. Or maybe a bad seal?
  11. The bad news is I found out my roof has some pretty aggressive rust on the underside that's starting to bubble to the top. The good news is I'm already stripping the car down for paint. I'm a fabricator but most of my experience pertains to motorcycles so I'm looking for tips on replacing the roof in the car with one from a donor. With the little bit of research I've done it looks like a common way to replace a roof is to tack in a trusswork of angle iron on the interior that ties the lower pillars to the body and each other. Then chop the pillars like halfway up. The trusswork is to keep the lower pillars in place after the roof is gone. Measure and chop out the donor roof in the same spot then weld it to the lower pillars stubs of the main car. This seems like a good tactic in theory since I imagine the cross section of the pillars prevents warpage when welding. I'm interested in hearing from others who might have tackled this already. Have any tips or feedback?
  12. I'm in search of a donor shell with a clean roof I can cut out. I'm in Portland OR. Willing to travel within about a 5hr radius and extract it myself. Ideally with sunroof. Thanks, Dave 508-9three2-twelve88
  13. Figured I would weigh the difference since I'm mid project and have a postage scale... Here's the weight of the E36 positive battery cable to trunk, negative cable, junction block, and "junction to starter cable" (in this case it's the stock 02 positive cable.) 5lbs 2oz. With the stock 02 positive cable removed 4lbs 10oz. So the stock + cable is about 8oz. I'd say the stock ground strap is about the same length but braided and likely lighter. Let's say it's 6oz. So the added cable weight to relocate a battery to the trunk is an additional 4lbs 4oz (+/- 2oz.) This is of course pretty rough but yes you are correct that running the 3lbs battery up front instead of in the trunk saves you about 4lbs in addition to the 30 or so you are saving over lead acid.


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