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    Portland, OR

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  1. I understand the delays that are happening but at least respond to customers after you take their money.
  2. FYI, maybe find somewhere else to buy a sun shade / car cover if you're looking right now. I placed an order for one of the CoverCraft custom sun shades everyone raves about. That was 6 weeks ago and I still haven't gotten a notification that it's shipped. Their site reads: "Covid-19 has created a backlog in communications and production, but we are working very hard to get caught up. If you could direct all questions/concerns through our contact us form on this page that would greatly help expedite our ability to promptly respond to each customer." Tried e-mailing them twice in the past 3 weeks and have gotten zero response.
  3. Not sure you're both talking about the same thing. I believe stephers is talking about taking some off the metal actuating arm and Jimk is referring to the cable eyelet. The actuating arm is made of thicker steel on these shoes I bought so that's what I did, took a bit off, and it fixed the issue. There's still enough meat on there that the cable would snap way before you'd be able to break that hunk of steel plate. It's a good 3/16" thick at least. And as an FYI, I have no idea how that upper tension spring was able to be routed inbetween the arm and the shoe plate in the above photo (red circle). The space inbetween those pieces on my shoes is thinner than the spring gauge.
  4. I can, jut wanted to make sure the interference wasn't because I installed something wrong.
  5. Hmmm, a couple questions... Red: Is this the proper spring routing where it goes behind the shoe plate then pokes through? I have mine on the opposite way. Maybe having the spring between the shoe plate and hand brake arm will distance it. Blue: this is where the issue is I'm having. The hand brake arm is notching itself behind the M-spring tip that pokes through the hole.
  6. Just replaced the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders out back on my 1975. I realized the left rear ebrake cable is sticking. I pulled the drum back off to inspect and found that the ebrake arm attached to the shoe is catching on the end of the M tension spring that protrudes through the hole of the shoe. Basically the ebrake is pulled, the arm notches itself behind the tip of the spring then it won’t return. I tried taking a few mm off the tip of the spring to give it clearance but it’s still catching. it looks like that arm attached to the drum is made of thicker metal than the ones I pulled off. I actually had to squeeze pretty hard to get the hook into the eyelet on the cable. I can push on the arm with a screw driver to release it from the spring interference and it will retract as it should. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there some adjustment I’m missing?
  7. "Back bleeding" is common in the motorcycle & bicycle world. You can buy a "back bleed kit" on Amazon for around $10 which is just a syringe, piece of tubing and an in-line crimp. Works like a charm! (disregard the metal fitting, that's for a cycle brake)
  8. Can someone further explain the driveshaft alignment procedure? "Straight" how? In what axis? Does straight mean parallel to something?
  9. Bumping this old ass thread because I'm also curious about the above question. How do the spring ends sit in the perches correctly if you cut something other than a full coil? I thought the spring pads were "keyed" up top?
  10. What’s the issue with the later 240’s for the M42?
  11. Reviving this old one... What driveshaft is needed to make the 240 work?
  12. I read Andrew's LSD build and he uses the E36 318ti guts into an E21 case. I'm a metalworker so I'm fine with needing to clearance a bit if needed. I can pick up an E36 318 LSD for 1/3 the price of an E21 diff at this point so I feel like it's worth it. Down the line I'd like to build a turbo kit for it as well...but boy is there a lot to do before then.
  13. I do have plans to hop her up a bit. I'm putting together an Ansa sport header-back system mated to long tube headers. It's also got electronic ignition and a Weber 32/36 on it. Just maybe that'll put me into triple digits! I'll be moving to Santa Cruz soon so I'd say most of my driving will be tight and twisty with the city being surrounded by mountains. So, back to my 2nd question; can I swap the 02 ring gear onto the E36 LSD guts?
  14. ...but has the power to make up for it. I’m still rocking the 99 ponies 😁
  15. I'm curious if anyone's running a 3.46 LSD with the 4 speed and how they like it. My main concern is if the car feels significantly less peppy down low. Asking because I could pick up an E36 318ti 3.46 LSD locally for pretty cheap and do the "guts swap". Question 2: Can I mate the stock 02 3.64 ring gear to the E36 LSD internals to keep the same gearing?
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