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  1. Oh! Could epoxy that sucker too...but you'd probably have to take the shifter out and at that point I'd also be in the "upgrade" midset. 🙂
  2. I assume you mean shift knob? The threads in your knob are probably trashed. They're plastic threads so they wear out before the metal shifter. If the loctite doesn't work replace the knob, not the shifter. Or if you REALLY like your shift knob and it's not replaceable you could apply a layer of epoxy to the threads inside the knob then re-cut the threads with a tap. I'd make sure the tap threads in deep enough before doing the epoxy. Most taps are tapered so you don't get to the full thread depth until about a 1/2" up the tap.
  3. I sent them a message after hours Friday and expect they’ll get back to me on Tuesday, I was just trying to sort this out this weekend if possible. I was finally able to extract the IE shifter. I had to slice the top plastic cup into 2 pieces and pry it out. Here are my findings: Difference in angles Reason for the difference in stack height: Granted the OEM plastic pieces are worn out and probably shouldn’t be able to touch but that difference is why I can’t fit the spring, washer and spring retainer in the IE stack up. This has to be the wrong part right?
  4. That's in neutral unfortunately. The rod does go straight through the ball but the shifter biases itself to the right like that, as if it's in 4th (It's a 4spd). Does that original shifter (black) look correct in the way it bends to the left? The fact the spring and washer don't fit in the stack up seems ...wrong.
  5. There IS a bend in the IE shifter I got but it looks more like a bend in the direction of travel and not left to right...which is why it's still pointing to the right even when I rotate it 180. I'm going to try to pull it all out again. Unfortunately the black plastic socket cups fit so damn tight into the shift plate that I'm probably going to have to cut them out with an exacto. I spent an hour trying to get pop it out last night and couldn't no matter how hard I whacked it from the underside with a block of wood.
  6. ** I’ve contacted IE but I was hoping to get this solved before the long weekend is over ** I’ve got a ‘75 2002 and just purchased the IE 4-speed short shifter. I tried to install it yesterday and had a bunch of issues so I’m trying to figure out what’s going on. 1. The stack up around the shift ball doesn’t fit in the shift plate. The parts orientation I pulled out was top to bottom: Circlip Washer Spring Spring retainer cup Plastic cup socket - top :: shifter ball :: Plastic cup socket - bottom ...all down into the shift plate tube/cup recess. I was only able to fit this stack up from the IE kit I got: Circlip Plastic cup socket - top ::shifter ball:: Plastic cup socket - bottom ...that’s it, otherwise the stack was above the circlip recess in the shift plate. Inspecting from the bottom I made sure the plastic piece was fully seated in the shift plate. A photo of the IE stack and how far it comes up without the spring, retainer or washer. 2. The shifter is pointing way off to the right. I tried flipping it 180 but it’s still far right. The stock shifter I pulled out has a bend to the left which centers it when mounted. The IE shifter does not. Anyone know what’s going on here? Did I get the wrong shifter? Did someone install an early shifter/plate in my late car? I’m I missing something basic?
  7. Ah! Didn’t know those existed. Does someone sell kits? However if I’m going to weld I’m probably going to make something that flows better than the log... I’m just trying to do things quicker rather than turning everything into a big project and never getting the car back on the road.
  8. Scratch that. The 745i manifold is a weird three piece manifold with heat sink fins cast into it... and $400+
  9. So what I’m hearing is a M30 turbo manifold from the 745i would have matching port size and port spacing... just needs to be relieved of a couple runners.
  10. Do you have an eBay tubular manifold or cast?
  11. Ah I see, flipping the manifold. That looks like a routing and access nightmare. Looks like the owner burned up the #1 plug and couldn’t access it without removing the manifold. No thanks. Wonder if a bottom mount would work... Would be easier exhaust and intercooler routing if it clears the steering and crossmember.
  12. Is that E30 M10 adapter you mentioned what those guys are doing or just a custom suggestion? If the turbo placement works out with just an adapter that would be cheap and easy...seeing as I have a M10B18 sitting on the floor of the garage.
  13. My question is about non-2002 OEM turbo manifold compatibility. i.e. Not custom made. Not aftermarket. Not from 2002 Turbo.
  14. Has anyone discovered an OEM turbo manifold *** that's cheap and easy to find *** that mounts up to the M10? Back when I had a Mk3 2.0L 8V VW someone had figured out that the 5cyl turbo manifold from the earl 90's Audi 5cyl turbo cars actually mounted up if you just chopped a runner off. Armed with that knowledge I was able to score the entire turbo system off an Audi in a junkyard for $200. All in I think I spent $1,000 and was around 160-180hp at 8psi. Wondering if anyone's tried something similar with the M10.
  15. Actual section width on these is listed at 7.2"; so about 10% wider. The speedo miscalc will just be a morality boost 😁
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