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    Santa Cruz, CA

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  1. Thanks Mike. My multimeter automatically switches ohm scale and was still showing open circuit so I guess I found the stumbling issue. Whacked my exhaust on a speed bump the other day and I think the distributor hit the firewall. Likely broke the HT lead internally and moved the dizzy. I need some stiffer motor mounts...
  2. How do I bench test the coil HT lead wire on a ‘75 2002? I don’t get any resistance (OL) when I probe the removed wire however it does generate spark as verified by holding the distributor side close to the valve cover during cranking. Is there a inline resistor that’s preventing me from testing with the multimeter or is there a break in the wire? Has Karlyn/STI wires on it I believe. (The brown cap ones)
  3. I’ll check again but they were equalized for the alignment 2 weeks ago and the wheels and tires are new. The alignment print out said something about CA requiring them to all be 30psi during inspection.
  4. I was driving the car for a couple weeks after all the new front end rubber. It tracked perfectly straight before the steering box came out.
  5. Mike, yes I removed the pitman arm from the box. Both the arm and the box have markings on them that the blue book says to align during reassembly, which I did. The adjustment screw had a lot of lateral movement (maybe 3-4mm) but only a little vertical movement. Maybe .5-1mm…
  6. There are 3 positioning dowels that the box mounts to on the subframe but I didn’t wiggle it to check the play. Is there a proper sequence of tightening? I snuggled down the box first then reattached the tie rod and center track rod. Maybe if I loosen and tighten the box with the rods still attached it’ll reposition itself.
  7. I’m confused as to how the toe would have changed. I didn’t loosen any of the toe adjustment hardware. Is it possible there’s an adjustment that’s off in the steering box assembly or steering column?
  8. So I just replaced every bushing in the front end, including full tie rod and center track assemblies and of course got it aligned afterwards. It drove great, tracked straight and everything felt tight again. Then about two weeks after that I pulled the steering box to replace the seals. I followed the Blue Book instructions (which call to disconnect the left inner tie rod end and left track rod end). After putting it back together the car now pulls to the left slightly. The steering wheel also slightly pulls to the left - meaning if I hold the wheel dead center it tracks straight but if I let go the wheel rotates left about 10mm and the car slightly wanders left. I assumed doing this job wouldn’t screw up my alignment. Is that incorrect or did I not put something back correctly? The wandering left is very slight but still annoying considering it was JUST aligned and everything is new.
  9. Would be easier to just center them and buy camber / caster plates me thinks
  10. Well $1,500 later and all the rubber in the front end is new, along with the tie rod assemblies and track rod. That's: CABs - inner and outer Sway bar end link bushings Sway bar mount bushings Subframe bushings Ball joints L & R complete tie rod assemblies Center track rod assembly On the plus side I gained a degree of caster on the side that had 0...the downside is that I gained a degree on the opposite side as well. Here's the alignment from my first post: And here's the one after all the front end work. This shop knows 2002's and did in fact add driver weight during the alignment process, unlike Firestone: Right rear toe somehow got better on it's own but still .05 out of spec. Maybe that's fine... The front camber and caster left to right is the most perplexing to me currently. I have an assumption that the MR2 inserts have some room to play in the strut housings after talking to others on here. I think my next step is dropping those assemblies out to investigate and probably make a top-cap style shim to go under the gland nut and center the inserts.
  11. I asked our Powertrain Engineer at work since he's designed many oil cooled electric motors (I work for an electric motorcycle company): "For motors we use Dexron VI ATF. It is designed to work with hybrid electric motors that are part of the transmission, and they have good cleaning agents, defoaming agents and stuff to absorb water a bit better than regular engine oil that runs quite a bit hotter. Plus it's red so if it leaks you know it's not the engine or brakes."
  12. Hold on... oil in the strut tubes? How much? That sounds like it would make a mess of the inner wheel well since it's not a sealed unit.
  13. Alright, I've got some aluminum barstock laying around I think. Anyone know the diameter of stock insert shock bodies? I remember having to take a file to the backside of the perch weld area to get it smooth again in order for the Koni's to slide in. I thought they were a pretty tight fit already but I'll have to take the assembly out to re-check once I get the car back.
  14. Ok, I’ve got delrin and a little lathe so I’ll make some kind of top hat spacer thing to keep them centered.
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