Jump to content

Mucci

Solex
  • Content Count

    183
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

17 Good

About Mucci

Contact Methods

  • Website URL Array

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I’m trying to sort out an intermittent slow cranking issue. The car will crank fast on first try but will then slow to 1 rotation per second right before firing up. Typically, 4-5 fast cranks, then 4-5 slow cranks, then fires. Here’s what I’ve tried: - New battery - New heavier gauge battery cables - New ground strap - Disassembled and refreshed starter according to Mikes recommendations. (Checked bushings, lathed down commutator, cleaned and greased) - Set ignition timing per the manual / Z ball. - New plugs and wires Any more ideas?
  2. Thanks for the tip. I got one and they came out in a couple seconds! I’m not really sure what was wrong with the solenoid. Maybe the fork wasn’t in the solenoid eyelet quite right or maybe something got in between the internal contacts on the other end. I loosened the plastic cap of the solenoid with the connections on it and cracked it open just enough to shoot some electronics cleaner in there. Then I greased the shaft on the other end. Put it all back together and it works again with low resistance between the poles when switched.
  3. Ok, pulled the starter. The gear has full throw when energized (it hits the stop bushing on the shaft). It will spin in its retracted state but doesn’t want to spin when extended. Looks like I’m taking it apart again ... Does the amount that the hot pole protrudes have anything to do with it? I feel like it’s sticking out more than it did initially. I haven’t been able to get the solenoid detached from the casing to pull it apart. I hate flat blade machine screws...
  4. Ok sounds like this is it. I just stuck the multimeter on the switched pole and it only shows 1.1 Volts when trying to start. So what did I do wrong in the reassembly that it’s not getting its full throw? I struggled with the solenoid a bit during the tear down. I loosened the bolts/nuts on the side of the solenoid with the terminals in the process of taking everything apart but then I couldn’t get the two mounting bolts to budge; the ones that attach it to the cast housing. So I ended up just tightening the other solenoid bolts back down and leaving it be. I wonder if I somehow screwed something up internally by loosening those?
  5. All the cables are beefy and new. Besides I bypassed all that by putting the jump pack leads directly on the starter and still got the click. This is a wall outlet style engine starter that puts 12V 100A to it so I know power isn’t the issue. I just put 12V to the switched threaded pole of the starter and it spins. So now I’m really confused. How is it that I can independently get the starter to spin and the solenoid to click but not the two happening at the same time?
  6. I had an intermittent slow starting issue and after replacing the battery and cables I decided to disassemble the starter to clean it up and check the bushings. After cleaning out a ton of sludge, checking the bushings and cleaning up the connections and commutator I put it all back together. I bench tested it with a jump pack and everything worked well. I just put it back in the car and now all I get is a single click from the solenoid. I tried putting the car in 2nd and pushing it a couple feet to rotate the flywheel. Same click. I replaced the ground wire from the starter bracket to the body. Same click. I tried hooking up a jump pack directly to the starter casing and positive terminal of the starter. I tried that with the key and then again using a jumper to the solenoid spade. Still one click. What’s going on here? How did it work on the bench and not in the car? Is there a tightening procedure to the starter bolts to align it or something?
  7. If you go through an existing hole to the rear seatbelt mounting bolt you don’t have to drill any new holes.
  8. I mainly work on motorcycles and one of the tricks I picked up years ago was "back bleeding" the brakes. You take a syringe filled with fresh brake fluid, connect it to the caliper bleeder, crack it open and force fluid back through the system up to the master reservoir. It's WAY faster than the pump & crack method. It immediately forces all the air bubbles to the reservoir in a rush of burbling. Once air bubbles stop coming out and the fluid level starts to rise you're done. Seal it all up, pump it a few times to build pressure and you're good to go. Is there any reason you can't do this on our cars? I know power bleeders exist but the syringe is so much simpler of a tool.
  9. One project at a time. This thing needs everything...
  10. If I bought parts that fit when would I be able to use my welder? 😁 Thanks for all the great info and photos folks. Good to know the resonator section is correct at least. I‘ve got some headers that need to go in too so I’ll pull everything down, clean it up and make some new brackets. Any recommendations on coatings that are durable? Preferably aerosol, brush or HVLP. This thing’s a bit too far gone to send out for ceramic. Anyone tried spraying cerakote?
  11. So I am! I don’t see how that will bring the exhaust over 4” though. The two rear mounts don’t seem like they’re right.
  12. I finally crawled under my project 02 to figure out what all the clunking was about. It looks like a previous owner installed an Ansa exhaust incorrectly some years ago. I’m not sure if the full system is Ansa, I’m just going by the logo on the muffler. I’m still familiarizing myself with these cars. As of right now the muffler is only hanging from the very rear hanger and the transmission hanger. It’s not even close to the hanger at the diff. Like 5” offset to the side. The pipe is also resting on the rear subframe. Questions: - Are there only 3 hangers on these cars? Nothing in the middle? - How is this system supposed to route? - Is this the right one for this car? (‘75) I don’t see how it could attach to both rear hangers. - Any recommendations on what to use to recoat the pipe black?
  13. Both of those aren’t too much more narrow than 195 S.Drives. Presa is .7in more narrow. Accelera is .6in. Might be worth a try. If they’re garbage I’ll just inflate them to 90psi and practice drifting 😬
  14. That IS a good idea! Thanks for valuing the thing you wanted to say over the parameters of my question!! Your voice has been heard!
  15. Do any reputable companies make a "small for it's size" 195/50?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.