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Ian

Kugelfischer
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Ian last won the day on May 31 2019

Ian had the most liked content!

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  • Website URL
    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2328398/iWeb_M2/Ians_M2/IanM2002.html

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Rochester, NY
  • Interests
    Rusty vintage cars, metalshaping, fabrication, roll cage design and construction

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  1. A real problem, as mentioned above, is that at very cold temperatures rock salt won't melt the ice. Here in the northeast they resort to a brine solution that is sprayed on the road surface, and this gets everywhere in the underside of the car. I run my daily driver through an automated car wash which includes an underside wash every week or two in the winter to try and get most of the brine out, but it's a losing proposition. The salt solution seems to win no matter how careful you are about looking after your car. In the end, it's just a car, and as Marshal suggests, has to be considered somewhat disposable if you drive it in the winter.
  2. Thanks, Ray. Rob has always been a good guy to the 2002 community, and has really shouldered a huge burden with Jenna's awful accident.
  3. This is how I remove my engine. I made a rolling cradle to go under the car, and use the cherry picker to lower the engine onto the cradle. Then I reposition the cherry picker and raise the front of the car so I can roll the engine out. Works well.
  4. I think it's important to realize that for most of us this is just a hobby. Don't let the stress of life affect your build, or just as importantly don't let the stress of your build affect your life. Ultimately, the calculus of stress vs hobby will change your perspective. I have a project that has frustratingly dragged on for years because of interference of life., but if it ever became so overwhelming that it threatened life, I'd let it go.
  5. I remain in the BMW CCA for the people, the HPDE, and driving tours. I don't get much from the Roundel anymore, for me it's turned into a mouthpiece for BMW North America with mostly new car reviews. But I enjoy the club and the people. It's true, there are not many 2002's at DE anymore, or at events. But there is a core of loyalists in the club that make it still worthwhile and fun, and the Forever Chapter is one small way of signaling to the mothership that we still care and still matter.
  6. I'm a CCA member, and at one time the website made it difficult to join an additional chapter without actually renewing. I'll check back, because I like the idea.
  7. This is a nice way to go. You can panel bond with some of the new 2-part adhesives, perhaps with some spot welds as backup. You can fill any gaps with self-leveling adhesive. Most auto paint stores can find this stuff for you. I'm surprised you don't have a metal supplier local to you. Often you can find metal suppliers by asking at a local welding or machine shop.
  8. Looks good so far. How are you planning to close it up, with weld or adhesive? Be careful with those gaps if welding, as the extra heat to fill voids can distort the panel. Keep the pictures coming!
  9. Hi - I just resently bought an M2 and I am running hot all the time... I noticed you had the same issue... Can you advice what the solution was? from I can see the realtor seems the original but worked on and it has a 14 blade fan pushing air... I am going to check RPMs tomorrow (I don't know at hand). Your knowledge is appreciate 

    Thanks 

    1. Ian

      Ian

      Hi Sergio,

       

      I actually haven't run hot, using a brass 320i radiator.  Because the 320i radiator is a bit wider than the 2002 radiator I also opened up the front radiator support to allow all the cooling vanes of the radiator to receive fresh air.  What radiator are you using?

  10. Hey, no problems with informative posts, this is great! I do like to tinker, so will probably go ahead with this. I agree with you about Lee's roll center spacers, they are really helpful. I have his 22mm drop with the offset for more camber, and I set up one side with and one side without for comparison. The spacers noticeably dropped the lower control arm back towards parallel with a lowered car.
  11. Hi Moe, Thanks for all the good info! Narrow rear-steer racks are hard to find, and I will most likely have to get a custom rack made. I want to use the 320 rack as a model to get the tie rod geometry correct. Unisteer is one possibility, as are the only manufacturer I have found that have an option for the pinion angle to be 90 degrees, which will make it easier to connect to the steering column. From talking with rack manufacturers I want the inner articulation point to be inline with the inner control arm bushing in the '02 subframe, and have the tie rod parallel the control arm, to minimize bump steer. I'm going to make a temporary bracket to mount the 320 rack on my subframe and measure bump steer to confirm. I have also been told that our steering arms are too long for rack&pinion, as they were made long to help with manual steering box effort but slow down a rack, so will look into shortening them as you have. I've got software somewhere that should help with the theoretical aspect of Ackerman and bump, but that is so dependent on accurate measurements that I'm hesitant to put too much faith in the software, and will likely rely on trial-and-error. Ian
  12. I was setting ride height and measuring compression and droop when I notice the control arm was hitting my modified subframe, and had bent the flange of the arm around one of the bolt heads that mounted the subframe to the chassis This was a setback. But I figured if I cut out that corner and lowered the bolt head, I might get the clearance I need. And it worked! The arm clears the bolt head, and I can plate this up later. For the moment I'm going to throw this back on the car and make sure everything clears, and then go back to setting up the suspension.
  13. Found it! The spacer had scampered under a pile of crap; I discovered it in a rare moment of cleaning.
  14. Right, the power steering rack is from the 6 cylinder 323. I'm flumoxed with the manual rack.
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