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Son of Marty

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Everything posted by Son of Marty

  1. Son of Marty
    Yes looks to be early 320i rad, should fit with out having to enlarge the opening in the front bulkhead their are 2 rubber "feet" that you'll need to screw onto the bottom cross piece of the car that locates and supports the rad bottom
  2. Son of Marty
    The site lists the working temp for this product as 450'F so that should work if paired with the right hi-temp adhesive and would at least look somewhat like the OEM pad
  3. Son of Marty
    I'm pretty sure that the calipers are drilled internally so the top half (left and right piston) and bottom half are separate circuits so in case of a failure you'll have at least 1/2 the fronts working which is a lot better than no brakes at all.
  4. Son of Marty
    As Hans is getting at, one side = caliper/hose both sides or all 4 corners master is staying pressurized, most likely linkage or peddle box bushings
  5. Son of Marty
    Everyone is thinking that where there is snow there is rust. The central part of AK is a trove of old cars with very little rust mainly because it's so dry and they don't salt the roads, given that CS's started rusting in the factory and have been at it everyday since and body parts are big bucks and you'll need many if you start body repairs they are Not a easy resto but are a beauty to behold when done.
  6. Son of Marty
    Healey3000 when I fabed up the shift support for my m20/gretag240 lash up I welded a tab on the back and support it to the trans tunnel with a 2002 air cleaner mounting rubber. Don't know how Ireland did it but I think most of the newer BMWs do something similar.
  7. Son of Marty
    Can you pick the engine stand up and attach it to the engine and then turn it around on the lift and set it down,it looks like you would have the room between the crane legs but you can only tell so much from the pictures, here again I'm only on my first cuppa too.
  8. Son of Marty
    As these cars approach 50 years old with the floors were not really finished well I couldn't stand not to remove the tar and put some real paint down. Minty describes the prepossesses well, the honey comb thin stuff on the trunk panel and back of the tranny hump on later cars was put on using Supermans x-ray vision and can't be removed by mere mortals, so if there is no evidence of rust under it just leave it. Get your self a painters 5 in 1 tool their under 10$ at any hardware store, it's like a very stiff putty knife with a sharp point on one edge for scoring the tar and the handle has a metal end so you can use a hammer on it if needed.
  9. Son of Marty
    As Marshall said save the old stuff, I have a set of old bearing races that I have ground just a little of the OD to use as a drift to pound or press the new ones in with out damage or trying to find a socket to use as a drift. My method of removing bushings out is to heat the metal center piece until the rubber softens and use a piece of all-thread and just a nut to pull out the center and the rest just sorta collapses.
  10. Son of Marty
    You may have picked up some water with your last fill up, it happens this time of year, I would remove the carb top and look for water on the bottom of the float bowl.
  11. Son of Marty
    I kinda find it hard to believe that Ti got out of the factory with a regular booster and no air cleaner brackets not to mention the Spanish Weber's with cable linkage.
  12. Son of Marty
    Found one used on line for only 99,500 USD. Who's in on a group purchase and who's shop can we put it in?
  13. Son of Marty
    I just use JB weld and have never had it let me down, as for the bracket if you have the broken piece cut to sheet aluminum bits that just fit the bracket contours then sandwich the broken piece between them with JB weld and pop rivets, let it dry overnight and it will be as good as new.
  14. Son of Marty
    I'm surprised at the finish on the journals considering the size of the chips coming off, I'm sure their going to put a finish polishing on them but they look nice for the first pass.
  15. Son of Marty
    Look at the fuel tank top in the trunk under the right side floor board, if you have the original braided fuel lines there also replace them too. 800 to 1000 rpm's is a good idle range for a m10 warm. I'll let the high altitude gang recommend the jets for Colorado.
  16. Son of Marty
    Correct at least with out trying to make a adapter plate and why would you when you could potently sell that tranny and get the same one with the bell housing to fit a m10 at the same price.
  17. Son of Marty
    He has a draw of potentially 67 amps of draw with all the forward lights on! and why would you ever mount 2 pencil beams.
  18. Son of Marty
    Toby the getrag 265 is the one with the removable bell housing, it was used intermittently in the big 6 cyl cars and the early m-cars, the 260 shown was pretty much used as the other transmission for the 6 cyls they are both pretty good boxes.
  19. Son of Marty
    When I got my airframe and powerplant FAA endorsement (more than a few years ago) the rule on lock nuts was once you engage the locking material if you can get more than 1/2 a turn by hand replace it.
  20. Son of Marty
    Thank you Tom, that's about as clear and concise a write up I've seen on m10 fuel pumps.
  21. Son of Marty
    I don't know Ken of his work although it looks very well done, but his comment on pricing a rebuild on a 40 year old engine with out disassembly is spot on, you'll never know what is marginal with out examination and measuring all the pieces, one of the hard things to balance on a rebuild is where to spend the money you have to in order to get the results your after with out overspending it would be a shame to go through a rebuild and have a $10 dollar part bring the whole thing down, but on the other hand barring a power ball win you have to stop the spending somewhere, and this needs to be part of the conversation with any engine builder you use
  22. Son of Marty
    The heat shield were used on the thermo reactor cars 75-76 the other is the tranny drain plug you'll be using that hopefully soon but make sure you get the fill plug on the right side of the tranny first otherwise if it's stuck you'll have to turn the car upside down to refill
  23. Son of Marty
    A lot of the bolts will shear when they are loosend due to rust, when installing them they are a tight fit and any miss alignment of the subframe or body due to accidents will cause one or more of them to cross thread with disaster following shortly.
  24. Son of Marty
    Hey Barney love the nails an old hot rod trick for filling holes, works good.
  25. Son of Marty
    If I remember right they are 10 mm bolts so 55-60 ft/lbs would be about right
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