Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'heater box'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

  • Technical Articles
    • Body and Interior
    • Brakes
    • Engine and Drivetrain
    • Electrical and Ignition
    • History and Reference
    • Racing and Safety
    • Suspension and Steering
  • News
    • Events
    • Racing
  • FAQ Use

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and other 2 door Sedans
  • BMW Nueu Klasse Sedans and Coupés
  • BMW 700

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Colors

Categories

  • Standard and Optional
  • Aftermarket

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Models

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Registry

Forums

  • Discussions
    • BMW 2002 and other '02
    • BMW 2002ti and BMW 1600ti Owners Group
    • BMW 2002 Turbo Discussion
    • BMW Neue Klasse Discussion
    • BMW 1600GT Discussion
    • BMW 700 Discussion
    • BMW 2002 and Neue Klasse Events
    • Project Blogs
    • Project Blogs - Archive
    • FAQ Articles Construction Zone
  • Technical Resources
    • Technical Articles
    • Colors Database
    • Wheels Database
  • Classifieds
    • Seller/Buyer Feedback
    • Cars for Sale/Wanted
    • Parts For Sale
    • Parts Wanted
    • eBay
  • Off Topic
    • Site Problems, Suggestions, and Questions
    • Off-Topic
    • Test Forum
  • BayArea02's Discussion
  • Texas's Discussion
  • Australia Owners Club's Discussion
  • Chicago '02 Group's Discussion
  • Florida's Discussion
  • Georgia's Discussion
  • Mid-Atlantic's Discussion
  • Midwest's Discussion
  • New York Owners Group's Discussion
  • Nor'East 02ers's Discussion
  • Pacific Northwest's Discussion
  • Rivertown Gear Busters's Discussion
  • Rocky Mountain's Discussion
  • Sacramento's Discussion
  • SoCal 02's's Discussion
  • Canada's Discussion
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Topics

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Drives
  • Racing
  • Shows and Gatherings
  • Technical Videos
  • Other
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Videos

Calendars

  • Events
  • Races
  • BayArea02's Events
  • Texas's Events
  • Australia Owners Club's Events
  • Chicago '02 Group's Events
  • Florida's Events
  • Georgia's Events
  • Mid-Atlantic's Events
  • Midwest's Events
  • New York Owners Group's Events
  • Nor'East 02ers's Events
  • Pacific Northwest's Events
  • Rivertown Gear Busters's Events
  • Rocky Mountain's Rocky Events
  • Sacramento's Events
  • SoCal 02's's Events
  • Canada's Events
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Events

Product Groups

  • Parts
    • Suspension
    • Engine and Drivetrain
  • Advertising
  • FAQ Accessories
  • Memberships

Marker Groups

  • Members
  • BMW Repair Shops
  • Race Tracks

Categories

  • BMW '02s
  • BMW '02 Cabrio and Targa
  • BMW '02 Touring
  • BMW 2002 Turbo
  • BMW Neue Klasse
  • BMW 700
  • Other BMWs
  • Non BMWs

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 22 results

  1. Looking ahead to the heater box rebuild I am completing, refurbishing the box is straight forward but the cable attachments look a bit daunting. I am replacing my cables with items from BluntTech. The cables to the Heater Controls are secured to their posts by winding the wire. While this is a permanent attachment, I had to wonder on how one goes about setting these at the correct lengths. What I envision is setting the box in the car with the Cables attached to the posts inside the box and with the levers in the totally closed positions, wind the wire to the lever posts. Is this correct or is there a better way? Thanks
  2. I have pulled a heater box out of one of the two parts cars. The Parts car is a '74 and the heater box is a very good candidate for the rebuild. It is going to go in my '73 (January '73 build date). I assume there would not be any issues on this, but what is the dividing line between early and late heater boxes. Looking at some parts listing and catalogs, I suspect the dividing line is '71?
  3. How to Reuse Heater Motor Metal Fan Blades The replacement heater blower motor is no longer available as a complete assembly; only the blower motor itself. Many of us would like to keep the original metal or aluminum fan blade, but it’s almost impossible to remove the fan blade from the old/seized motor without destroying the pressed in the plastic bushing that the fan sits between. By this decade, any of these bushings have also become brittle and separated. If you have a very early metal blade that came with the set screw, then you may be able to transfer and reuse the blade if the set screw is not rusted out. PRDesignSF has been proud to offer you the plastic fan blade that adapts to the new motor. Since there is a lot less weight for the motor to turn, it puts less stress on the motor, allowing it to last longer while providing almost the same airflow. For those who would like to save and reuse the metal/aluminum blades, we have created an adapter screw from stainless steel that will work. Now you will be able to reuse the metal blade and make it look more original. Here's a quick guide to removing the blade safely without destroying it. The one thing that you do not want to do is attempt to yank the blade off the shaft; you will damage the blade. The metal shaft needs to be cut off and press out. You could reuse the plastic bushing if they are still in good condition, or if you do not want to take a chance for the bushing to become separated in the future, you can use the new adapter screw that we made. With the motor out, separate the plastic body housing by prying the tabs and they will split up. Remove the press-in clip at the end of the shaft and cut the upper support arm bearing housing. This is to create some space for you to be able to cut the shaft. Now you can pull the internal parts out, including the stator, from the housing. There is a square clip at the back of the bearing support arms; pry it with a screwdriver and the support arm will become loose, but still attached to the shaft. It’s seated in a spherical race. You should be able to move it around to create enough space to cut the shaft now. With the shaft cut off, turn the fan upside down and support it with a 14mm deep socket. Now, you can use a punch to drift the shaft out. The bushing will be separated and the fan will be free. The plastic bushing consists of two separate parts, the top half features a built-in key to lock the blade, and the bottom half to keep the upper bushing from coming off the blade by pressing into it. You can clean up the blade, but be very gentle with an aluminum blade: It’s very easy to deform the blade. The adapter screw is very easy to install. Twist the adapter through the fan center hole and tighten it with the nylock nut. Use an 8mm Allen and 14mm socket to tighten the adapter screw. Tightened to 16-18 Ft-Lb. Mark approximately 5 mm from the upper fan body to the shaft; too far out and the fan will interfere with the fresh air flap. You can also tell if you’ve put the fan at the right depth if you have the chamfered edge slightly sticking out from the adapter. Tighten the set screw using a 2mm Allen into the shaft. Because the set screw is cupped, it will bite into the shaft and secure it. Be sure to use thread locker (medium strength) on the set screw to prevent it from backing out. You could also apply a dab of paint on the top of the set screw to provide additional protection from backing out. Optionally (Recommended), you can also cut a divot into the shaft to provide a flat area for the set screw to sit in; it’s still a good idea to apply thread locker onto the set screw. To test proper blade orientation, power up the motor (Male -, Female +). When the blades are facing you, they should be turning counter-clockwise. If you feel a lot of vibration (Light vibration is acceptable), then most likely the blades were not straight. Looking from the side of the motor, check if all the blade’s center ridges are 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the shaft motor, otherwise, they are out of balance. With this, now you have the option of reusing your metal/aluminum blade or plastic blade. Either metal (Used) or plastic fan blades can be purchased from our store as well. Contact us at www.PRDesignsf.com or email [email protected] Happy ’02 motoring!
  4. Got the sunroof back in with a bit of trial and error. Fit is ok just a slight passenger side height difference. Also installed heater box and dash. Mocked in the gauge cluster to fill the hole. It will be removed before permanent installation. Added H4's w/city lights and a relay/fuse harness. Will install the driving light brackets when they arrive. Thanks, Pierre.
  5. Removed from a 1972 2002 - Not tested, spins with no noise or resistance. Comes with what you see. You will pay actual shipping, prefer USPS. Contact me at [email protected] or text 858-208-8449 with your zip for shipping costs.
  6. How to Reuse Heater Motor Metal Fan Blades The replacement heater blower motor is no longer available as a complete assembly; only the blower motor itself. Many of us would like to keep the original metal or aluminum fan blade, but it’s almost impossible to remove the fan blade from the old/seized motor without destroying the pressed in the plastic bushing that the fan sits between. By this decade, any of these bushings have also become brittle and separated. If you have a very early metal blade that came with the set screw, then you may be able to transfer and reuse the blade if the set screw is not rusted out. PRDesignSF has been proud to offer you the plastic fan blade that adapts to the new motor. Since there is a lot less weight for the motor to turn, it puts less stress on the motor, allowing it to last longer while providing almost the same airflow. For those who would like to save and reuse the metal/aluminum blades, we have created an adapter screw from stainless steel that will work. Now you will be able to reuse the metal blade and make it look more original. Here's a quick guide to removing the blade safely without destroying it. The one thing that you do not want to do is attempt to yank the blade off the shaft; you will damage the blade. The metal shaft needs to be cut off and press out. You could reuse the plastic bushing if they are still in good condition, or if you do not want to take a chance for the bushing to become separated in the future, you can use the new adapter screw that we made. With the motor out, separate the plastic body housing by prying the tabs and they will split up. Remove the press-in clip at the end of the shaft and cut the upper support arm bearing housing. This is to create some space for you to be able to cut the shaft. Now you can pull the internal parts out, including the stator, from the housing. There is a square clip at the back of the bearing support arms; pry it with a screwdriver and the support arm will become loose, but still attached to the shaft. It’s seated in a spherical race. You should be able to move it around to create enough space to cut the shaft now. With the shaft cut off, turn the fan upside down and support it with a 14mm deep socket. Now, you can use a punch to drift the shaft out. The bushing will be separated and the fan will be free. The plastic bushing consists of two separate parts, the top half features a built-in key to lock the blade, and the bottom half to keep the upper bushing from coming off the blade by pressing into it. You can clean up the blade, but be very gentle with an aluminum blade: It’s very easy to deform the blade. The adapter screw is very easy to install. Twist the adapter through the fan center hole and tighten it with the nylock nut. Use an 8mm Allen and 14mm socket to tighten the adapter screw. Tightened to 16-18 Ft-Lb. Mark approximately 5 mm from the upper fan body to the shaft; too far out and the fan will interfere with the fresh air flap. You can also tell if you’ve put the fan at the right depth if you have the chamfered edge slightly sticking out from the adapter. Tighten the set screw using a 2mm Allen into the shaft. Because the set screw is cupped, it will bite into the shaft and secure it. Be sure to use thread locker (medium strength) on the set screw to prevent it from backing out. You could also apply a dab of paint on the top of the set screw to provide additional protection from backing out. Optionally (Recommended), you can also cut a divot into the shaft to provide a flat area for the set screw to sit in; it’s still a good idea to apply thread locker onto the set screw. To test proper blade orientation, power up the motor (Male -, Female +). When the blades are facing you, they should be turning counter-clockwise. If you feel a lot of vibration (Light vibration is acceptable), then most likely the blades were not straight. Looking from the side of the motor, check if all the blade’s center ridges are 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the shaft motor, otherwise, they are out of balance. With this, now you have the option of reusing your metal/aluminum blade or plastic blade. Either metal (Used) or plastic fan blades can be purchased from our store as well. Contact us at www.PRDesignsf.com or email [email protected] Happy ’02 motoring! View full article
  7. I am looking for a few parts for my recently purchased 1967 2000 tilux. The car is mechanically strong with a nicely tuned engine and also rust free, but has suffered from chronic neglect by previous owners. I am looking for; complete heater ass'y, controls and air plenum (missing), beltline moldings (missing), door and window weatherstrip (dry and cracked), interior wood veneer inserts. Does anyone know of anyone who refurbishes dash tops? Can anyone recommend a source for new/used parts, and repair and owners manuals and parts list? I am determined to bring this car back to its former glory and appreciate all the help that I can get.
  8. These are currently back ordered from BMW per Blunt. Looking for something usable until they're available. I'm looking for both short flaps that go on either end of the hood latch rod, and the long seal that runs across the hood to seal the heater box from the engine compartment.
  9. What is the difference between #22 & #23 in the diagram.
  10. Price:: 325.00 Location: : richmond,ca i am selling a behr heater box it's complete and i am also including the heater control faces with knobs, the fan turns, the heater core is intact no leaks, holes or cracks, it can be used but i would recommend a good cleaning. Its getting colder out there and i do believe this is an important item to enjoy your classic ride in a warm enviroment. The blower was tested and it works without a problem!
  11. CAR: 1974 tii PROJECT: overhauling heater box and heater radiator STATUS: overhaul finished (quite a job! many hours!) and radiator rejuvenated and springtime fresh PROBLEM: The heater switch now has only two speeds: Medium, Medium, and High (rather than Low, Medium, and High). COMMENTS: I don't recall breaking anything, all wiring appears to be OK, and the Yellow, Brown, Black, and Purple wires are in the correct places behind the resistor board...I think. QUESTIONS: Where did Low speed go? How can I get it back? Any of you who have overhauled a 2002 heater box will understand this comment: I need to make SURE the speed switch functioning correctly BEFORE I put the heater box back in place. Thank you for any help you can provide. 2002#2 Larry
  12. Does anyone know whether the Bowden cable that controls the heater valve is still available new? If so, what is the part number and where can I get one? 1973 2002tii.
  13. I am not really shopping, so please don't hit me with a bunch of sales. I have purchased a heater valve rebuild kit from Blunt...nice by the way. I am toying with the idea of rebuilding a valve before my heater box gets worked on. I am hoping to save time by purchasing a used valve and rebuilding it before the deinstall/install work begins. I am sure most people pull the valve, rebuild it and install it, so I don't see many used ones for sale. New ones run over $300. Anyone have an Idea of what a used (larger-71 and up ) valve goes for? (also thinking of doing something similar with the heater box as well) Looking for ballpark range. To see if the price vs cost of time is reasonable. (US...West Coast....Oregon...) Price of used heater valve Price of used heater box. Thank you Vic.
  14. I'm looking for Bowden cables (PN 64111351484). My cables snapped where they connect to the heater control valve. If anyone has a set in good condition, please let me know. Thanks!
  15. Hi all, So I am currently working on my heater box (rebuilding it). I have been using resources available online and on the FAQ. I see people have addressed the broken heater valve bracket issue and have solved it however mine is an interesting one.... not only is the heater valve tab broken but so is the plastic on the right hand side of the box. I am trying to work out how to fix the latter. I don't want to glue it cause I am worried it might break again in the future and I don't want to pull the box out again in the future to fix it. I was thinking of bending a thin flat plate in to like and 'L' or 'U' shape and rivetting to the box. The plate would have two holes to allow the cables to go through. I would have to seal that area well to avoid air leak. Any criticism on my thoughts or has someone solved this problem before? Raj
  16. Can't seem to find a replacement for the cable clamp for the Bowden cables. #8 in the realoem diagram. If there are any suggestions out there I'm open to them since this is NLA. Thanks in advance.
  17. Price:: 1.00 Location: : Lake County, Ohio Hello all, I'm new to this, but one of the members on this forum (John Harvey) suggested I list all my items on here after he saw my garage Lots of pieces and parts to various cars/ unfinished projects. Please see pictures. I will add more as I drag things out of the garage. You can see a lot of the parts on the Facebook 2002 group as well. Please make offers, want everything possible to go to a good home but need it out of the garage... No reasonable offer has been refused yet! Please send me any questions and I'll check with my father as they were his cars/projects. Thank you for looking!!
  18. Price:: 1.00 Location: : Lake County, Ohio Hello all, I'm new to this, but one of the members on this forum (Jeff Deitrich) suggested I list all my items on here after he saw my garage Lots of pieces and parts to various cars/ unfinished projects. Please see pictures. I will add more as I drag things out of the garage. You can see a lot of the parts on the Facebook 2002 group as well. Please make offers, want everything possible to go to a good home but need it out of the garage... No reasonable offer has been refused yet! Please send me any questions and I'll check with my father as they were his cars/projects. Thank you for looking!!
  19. Which works best? EPDM rubber, 3M strip caulk, closed cell foam, or a combination. My thoughts are gravitating to combining closed cell foam with topcoat of 3M strip caulk. Yours? Thanks!
  20. I have two heater box electrical questions, hopefully you could answer these questions for me. I removed my heater box some time ago and my tags have disappeared: First: Is there a ground that attaches to the driver's side heater box mounting stud? There is a wire hanging from the dash that has an eyelet that coincidentally reaches that stud. Second: What color wires go to which terminal on the front of the box? Up, down, and to the right. I have the male plug figured out. Thanks
  21. I can get over the mouse nest, but I'm bummed that it jammed the fan and melted the housing.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.