tjones02

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About tjones02

  • Birthday 11/15/1974

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  • Website URL http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o236/tjones02_bucket/

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  • Gender Male
  • Location East and North San Francisco Bay Area
  • Interests BMW's, Vintage Racing, Schwinn StingRays, Mountain Bikes, Music, Road Trips

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  1. Yes, a group 47 is correct for a ‘74 US Tii. This may not be true for the Euro market square taillight Tii’s, as I do know that the Turbos do have the same smaller tray as the round taillight Tii’s.
  2. Fuel mileage, it’s all about as little drag from the alternator as necessary.
  3. Are you sure the foot tucks under the ledge in the battery tray? I say, only because I’ve measured and tried many many batteries including the 26RC.
  4. While the Group 47 is the preferred replacement for the R56 Minis and regular 2002s and ‘74 Tii’s. And, it may be smaller than the optional factory installed Mini batteries, it is much larger than the standard original Mini batteries, which are the same size as the original 2002tii batteries. And... When you upgraded to an AGM battery in your Mini, did you have the car reprogramed to know that it now has an AGM battery? And or, did you have the new battery registered to the car? These generation Mini, and BMWs, require that whenever a new battery is installed that the car’s computer be told that, so that it’s computer controlled alternator can charge the new battery accordingly. These cars charge an ild battery differently than a new one and can, and will, overcharge a new battery. Especially a new AGM battery that shouldn’t be charged with the 16 Volts that these cars alternators can put out... The car is likely still also programed for a standard lead acid battery and will overcharge that AGM.... Our ‘02s old school alternators/voltage regulators don’t usually charge over 15 Volts, so there’s no worry in using AGM batteries there.
  5. The feet on the end of the 26RC are too high up the battery for the factory tray and hold down. They can be found for under a hundres dollars though. I’ve done quite a bit of research on the subject...
  6. The battery that my dad and I found for his Tii is the front starter battery for an ‘08 Mercedes CL550. But, it’s a little bit smaller, and requires a regular 2002/E21 hold down. The best alternative that I can find in the US is to find the original small size battery for a second generation modern Mini. So say an ‘08 Mini Cooper. The hard part is, that while these come new with a perfect size battery, the replacement is a group 47, even from BMW/Mini. Yet, while there are only three main battery companies that sell in the US and none of them sell a proper battery for the 2002tii, there are still some small marine type battery shops that can get or build the correct size battery for the 2002tii’s... I just saw a customer’s 2009 Mini Clubman with the perfect small battery from a battery builder in Sausalito California, Arc Batteries. Another alternative is to find a friend in Europe who can help you... The European battery manufacturers still list and sell proper fitting 2002tii batteries. Likely due to so many small cars that American buyers just don’t understand. That’d be Bosch and Varta batteries. Hope this helps,
  7. tjones02

    BMW 1800 TISA

    I have a TiSA supplement pdf that someone here on the FAQ did, and an original that my dad and I picked up off of eBay a while back. I’ll see what I can do to post the pdf here later today.
  8. Well, 2760007 definitely had the “spaghetti” Klippan seatbelts with the big loop ring on the trans tunnel. The shoulder belt was mounted on the top section of the quarter panel below the quarter window. Also, These Klippans in 2760007 had a hook on the plastic bolt cover rather than the earlier seperate plastic clip screwed in front of the shoulder bolt, like seen in Jim’s ‘69. I also happen to have worked on 2760048, Atlantic blue, and it had original carpets with evidence of the Klippan belts in the carpet on the trans tunnel and the quarter panels.  With the Klippan belts being such a struggle to keep straight and use, many people upgraded to inertia reel belts, my father included. We used to get the Quelle catalog from Germany, like a German Sears catalog back when it was good. Dad bought Romer Britax front inertia seat belts, swapped the quarter “door” panels from the ‘67 1600 he had at the time. And, also installed Romer Britax rear shoulder belts around the same time, in the early eighties... even a fifth seat belt, lap only though, for the rear center seating position.  Cheers, and hope this helps
  9. tjones02

    Tii VIN Number Thread

    Well, 2760007 definitely had the “spaghetti” Klippan seatbelts with the big loop ring on the trans tunnel. The shoulder belt was mounted on the top section of the quarter panel below the quarter window. I also happen to have worked on 2760048, Atlantic blue, and it had original carpets with evidence of the Klippan belts in the carpet on the trans tunnel and the quarter panels. With the Klippan belts being such a struggle to keep straight and use, many people upgraded to inertia reel belts, my father included. We used to get the Quelle catalog from Germany, like a German Sears catalog back when it was good. Dad bought Romer Britax front inertia seat belts, swapped the quarter “door” panels from the ‘67 1600 he had at the time. And, also installed Romer Britax rear shoulder belts around the same time, in the early eighties... even a fifth seat belt, lap only though, for the rear center seating position. Cheers, and hope this helps
  10. tjones02

    Tii VIN Number Thread

    It’s nice to see this thread woken up every once in a while. Since it’s been quite a few years since I posted my parent’s Tii. I figure it’s time I do so again. My parents bought the car new off the showroom floor in February ‘72 from Weatherford BMW in Berkeley. They got the 2002 TII license plate in ‘78. The Chromodora CD40 “Dino” wheels also date from ‘78. I came along in late ‘74. Some updated pictures... Dear Mr Jones,Thank you for your email. Here's the data: The BMW 2002 tii US VIN 2760007 was manufactured on October 20th, 1971 and delivered on November 8th, 1971 to Hoffman Motors. The original colour was Colorado, paint code 002. We hope this information is helpful for you.Yours sincerely,Andreas Harz First pic is from Aug ‘16 during Monterey Car Week and BMW’s 100th anniversary celebrations. That’s Mom and Dad going out on a date to the Festorics kick off dinner. Next is the earliest picture I have easy access to. It’s from the first Monterey Historics in August ‘74. The accessories on the car in this pic are as Hoffman delivered the car to Weatherford, Anco bumper bars, Ansa Sport exhaust and Shelby Cal 500/Ansen Slot Mags. Third pic is AutoX magazine, now Grassroots Motorsports, January ‘87, covering the BMWCCA Oktoberfest ‘86 in Orlando Florida. VIN... And then, here’s the recent Bimmer Life article by Kyle van Hoften. https://bimmerlife.com/2018/09/26/2002-memories-from-before-birth/
  11. My 1508028 '66 1600 would indeed do an indicated 105mph, with no more to go. Took a while to get there, but it got there.
  12. tjones02

    Street Build Starting

    I always do and recommend painting the drums so they don't turn to ugly rust that can be seen through the wheels.
  13. tjones02

    Street Build Starting

    Sweet, lookin' great! I spy a special Turbo photobombing in the last pic too.
  14. tjones02

    3-bolt to 4-bolt output flange issue

    You need the nose/front flange from any BMW driveshaft that uses the "624" guibo, so that it can be welded to the front of your 2002 driveshaft when it gets shortened/balanced/rebuilt for your 240 5-speed conversion. I used to cut the flange part from used driveshaft that the transmission would've come from. Sorry that you have an '84 318i trans as it doesn't have a speedometer drive and that building a trans crossmember for the two diagonal mounts is harder than if it were a 240 trans from an '83 4cyl E21.
  15. On Joseph Oneil’s 2000TiLux with a longneck we shortened the shift linkage in the traditional way, installed the trans with a Rob Torres U shaped crossmember that bolts to the original 4-speed tunnel mounting ears. For the driveshaft, that car had a big NK guibo at the longneck. I knew late 2002 longnecks had a u-joint style flange and Torres supplied one for the project so that we could attempt to install a more modern driveshaft with a “624” guibo at the trans, an adjustable sliding section and u-joint in the middle and a u-joint at the diff. But, we found the late longneck input flange wasn’t the same size as the later “normal” flange. To make that work the way we needed, we took careful measurements and had a local race car fabricator modify the flange to accept the “normal” u-joint flange style driveshaft. So... I don’t recall if we had to modify it much, but we used an E30 driveshaft. Now for your sideloader... Since the sideloader has a crush sleeve in the pinion bearing setup, you need to mark all three pieces before you take the flange off the diff... The nut, the flange and the pinion need to be marked so they can be put back together in the same way AND the nut torqued to the same spot. Since you’re swapping the flange, you’ll just have to keep your fingers crossed that the new flange is the exact same thickness as the old one. I usually torque the nut down to just a thin hair tighter than the marks. I would replace the pinion seal at the same time.