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Healey3000

Solex
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About Healey3000

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  1. Time to do a Rube-Goldberg electric window lift .
  2. Hi, The factory used 4 mm2 wire from the alternator to the hot junction and a 6 mm2 from there to the battery. Assuming you have a stock alternator, a 4 mm2 from the alternator to the solenoid should suffice. Red would be good .
  3. Hi, I would also suggest that you redo the positive terminal. Perhaps it's the lighting but it looks like the positive cable is pretty corroded where it is exposed. If you have slack in the cable, cut off and crimp on a new lug. What gauge is that wire? As has been suggested, connect the alternator to the solenoid such that there is a direct path to the battery. Nothing wrong with having three wires gathering on the solenoid. Do you still have the stock fuse box? If so, you don't really need that 50 amp fuse, unless it's just a convenient distribution point.
  4. Hi, In a distributed power system, where multiples wires come together to a single node, such as the ignition switch (or battery), each branch may flow a different amount of current. This current will result in some amount of I*R drop in voltage. Take the extreme example of a really skinny wire feeding a load that draws a very high current. The resulting voltage at the load will be noticeably lower. On the other hand, a beefy wire would not cause as much of a drop. It therefore depends on where in the circuit you are measuring the voltage. Of course, if you are measuring it at the B+ terminal, then you are correct - the entire system is loaded down uniformly. However, I think you are measuring it at the load point from your description and if that is so, the voltage there can be lower than at the B+ terminal. The other issue that I was referring to is that measuring devices can be affected by the quality of the signal itself. If the voltages are steady, clean DC, then a multimeter can be trusted. If the signal has AC noise, the meter can be fooled. A blower is a really inductive load and can spew lots of crud into the local circuit. A headlight is a nice, clean resistive load and if the behavior is different than with the blower, it might be clue. Do keep us posted on what you find.
  5. Hi, If the green wire that feeds the 123 is not also providing current to something else, then turning on another load ought not to cause a drop at the 123. While the 123 and a DVM show the same drop, they may both be subject to the same root cause. As averaging meters, they will both be similarly affected. An interesting problem!
  6. Hi, Does the 123 draw much current (is that green wire feeding the ignition coil as well through the 123)? If it is, then your hunch about the ignition switch contact may be correct. However, what does the blower have to do with it? Is there a shared power feed? The blower draws a lot more than the ignition coil, averaged. It is possible that the blower, when turned on, is generating all kinds of electrical junk (highly technical term) and this noise is causing the 123 to read something other than 13.5 volts. Do you see a similar voltage drop when you turn on your headlights (which on high beams represent a similar load)? Do you have a 'scope you can verify with?
  7. Sounds like a circulation problem. Thermostat, water pump, radiator - I think it's just these three in the path. Since the thermostat is new, it could be a bad water pump or a choked radiator. When you flushed it with a hose, I assume you also opened the drain cock (if present) and let it run?
  8. Is the lower hose cold or just comfortably warm? If cold, there mustn't be any circulation.
  9. Good point! I hadn't thought about the subframe. So far so good, perhaps because of the beefy bolts. If it acts up, I'll have to find another spot, Thanks for that.
  10. Ah, a Tinnerman clip. That's a problem for sure Even if there isn't much corrosion, the puny threads of a self-tapper won't cut it, so to speak.
  11. Hi, The cable looks sufficiently up to the task. Is the bolt on a welded bracket? If so, that's probably the issue as welds age and mild corrosion can set it. That does not allow enough current to flow. I attached mine to the steering box mount to the chassis.
  12. Thanks Toby, that makes me feel much more comfortable about this. Now, does anyone know a good local source of glass (SF Bay Area)? Are the likes of Safelite any good for this? I may just have a mobile outfit provide and install the glass but am leery about bad glass.
  13. I should have taken some but in the heat of the moment, didn't. It's now back on the car as I was attempting to understand centering of the glass. How does one know whether the glass needs to be moved one way or the other? That's proving to be the tricky part for me as it isn't obvious which way I should nudge it.
  14. Hi, The good news: the windshield roped in on the first attempt (with lockstrip pre-installed) The bad news: while pressing down on the gasket to seat it, using the same technique I did on the rear, the glass cracked. I had to leave the assembly in place due to travel, and three weeks later, upon removing the unit, I see something in the gasket that is concerning. The rubber groove that is supposed to seat over the pinch weld is splayed open along the bottom corners. Elsewhere, it is tight as before. Question - can I reuse the gasket or will this distortion prevent it from snugging the glass into the corners? I had noticed that the glass had some edge damage so perhaps I shouldn't be surprised that it cracked. In addition, examination of the glass shows no manufacturer's logo or markings of any kind so I'm assuming it is a poor (cheaper) quality glass. All other glass on the car appears original. Blunt and WN are probably the best options for a new one, correct? What is your opinion regarding tint, get the one with the green band along the top or not? Thanks!


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