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Healey3000

Solex
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About Healey3000

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  1. If you don't mind having a short run for the ground wire, you could use the seat belt anchor bolts under the rear seat. Very solid (11 mm), nothing moves, and well protected; plus, cosmetically cleaner.
  2. I simply could not get that tool to work, try as I might. I ended up just doing it by hand, a section at time. I found that two plastic credit card sized pieces worked best. Of course, that was with new gaskets and with the gaskets off the car, installed on the glass. With old gaskets, it sounds like a difficult task will be made exponentially more so!
  3. What!! Take away my can of spray vowels, my night-stick of adverbs and my dangling participle?? No, please, not the dangling participle!!
  4. Thanks, Tom. Love the slight edit Can't resist being the grammar police - tinker normally is a verb. You, therefore, are a Master Tinkerer. Unless you meant: In former times, a tinker was a person who did not have a fixed home, but travelled from place to place mending metal pots and doing other small repair jobs
  5. It sounds like your balls may have jammed - no really 🙂 I had posted a track disassembly how-to a couple of years ago and the images there may offer some insight. The combination of bearing balls, roller cylinders and O-rings sometimes misbehaves. Sorry that I cannot offer any specific suggestions.
  6. Are you being sarcastic? I just can't tell 😁😁
  7. Sorry to hear you've had a bad experience. Like any other forum, or just about most things in life, there will be times when an individual, or a handful, will leave a bad taste. By far, however, this forum has been one of the most helpful group of folks I've had the pleasure to interact with. It has a nice mix of tongue-in-cheek humor and friendly banter as well, which I enjoy. Hang in there and give us a chance to restore your faith in the forum!
  8. Check the Deka line of AGM batteries. I have an ETX30 under the rear seat and have had no issues.
  9. realoem.com is your friend for stuff like this.
  10. You really ought to consider the one from the M30-powered cars. For similar weight/performance as the M3 starter, it's a lot more affordable. Either starter is such a significant upgrade that you'd be hard-pressed to tell the difference between the two.
  11. Hi, I could be wrong but my gut tells me that capacitors that will hold sufficient charge for this may well be larger than a PC680 battery. Add to that the concerns about inrush current, equivalent series resistance robbing power during discharge, controlling transients and providing protection for reverse battery and load dump. A battery is a pretty simple and robust solution. I've always had misgivings abut putting two batteries in parallel without some form of charge management and load sharing electronics in place but if size were an issue, two 6 volt batteries in series would at least eliminate load sharing concerns.
  12. I'm not 100% sure they are the same but both work equally well. I think the M3 one may be more expensive because, well, it has "M" in the name 🙂 Do a quick check on realoem.com for peace of mind.
  13. Hi, As Mike suggests, check the fuses first. Since you have a new switch, it may just need adjustment. Sorry if these are dumb suggestions but did you check the bulbs? Take off the rear covers on the tail lights and with a voltmeter check whether you see battery voltage when the brake pedal is pressed. If not, something's opened up in the harness. Check the crimps at the battery switch; corrosion may have got the better of them. Good luck!
  14. Even if this were possible, why bother when the price of a complete e32/e34 (M30)/M3 starter is so reasonable. I think I picked up an original Bosch for $40 on ebay and it has worked perfectly for years. EDIT: Not sure why it double-posted. Sorry about that!
  15. Even if this were possible, why bother when the price of a complete e32/e34 (M30)/M3 starter is so reasonable? I think I picked up an original Bosch for $40 on ebay and it has worked perfectly for years.
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