Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

337 Excellent


About theNomad

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array

Recent Profile Visitors

3,982 profile views
  1. From all the research I've dug into a T25 with AR .42 is a good fit for our engine. For low pressure 7psi that is. It's basically maxed out but fits well with out inefficient engine. Most poeple seem to bypass it because its small and they want to go up to 12 psi or more so they want a bigger one. Everyone wants more more more. I've got a stupid dream of an under 7psi system... no more than that. From what I understand .42 to .50 is a good AR to be at. A very common turbo is a T3 with AR .60 which gives a lot more room but probably spools a little slower, but of course, good for cranking boost. But I'm 75% right most of the time.
  2. you may need to try a few different vw versions, I got one and I think it was loose on the post, returned them. I think there are a few different versions. IE sells them but they are all set screw, probably work fine but you can look for VW and I think some porsche versions to find something to work.
  3. Major fail day and lesson learned. (A lesson I thought I learned, but guess not) Grabbed my 'yard bag and was first on the scene to a 320i... 90% pulled the 5 speed trans... ran out of time and was without ONE tool... had to go, came back and someone got the 5 speed, so to whoever it was, you're welcome... and I hate you, and I hate myself even more. Make some changes to my 'yard bag and set it aside, no more raiding it for tools!
  4. I assume you mean laying on the ground and reaching from behind the wheel? I twisted mine a bit and will snug one bolt up, go around the block and feel it out. Then repeat.
  5. 80 shipped in us Two sensor water divider
  6. When removing, is the oil pump gear reverse threaded?
  7. what are the bike attachments on them? They look like the really small versions.
  8. Water temp is probably the one that you'll be looking at most of the time as it fluctuates in traffic, or if there's any number of issues. That should be easy to see. The oil pressure is certainly critical but you won't be watching it all the time, more of a basic check. I've got water temp, then oil pressure, then oil temp in that order. I don't think my placement will be covered by the wheel. The console I have has two locations down low by the shifter, so I filled them with Volt and Clock.
  9. The struts were not installed by me and didn't have any issues before. I'm going to button it up, set the toe and see how it feels. I know it'll be tighter but want to be sure there's no issues.
  10. I found this color version useful for my 74. It looks to jive with the Haynes manual if you want to pick one of those up...I think it was from IE ed.pdf
  11. I just got it out for a test ride after a full front rebuild, it was pretty solid and firm feeling but it didn't seem to want to return to center as easily. I know I have to do the alignment again, but I double checked the strut bearings today just in case. I have one washer under the bearing, no concave washer. The reason was it did not fit the Bilstein shaft. I did not have any issue before and there is a space just as seen above. Spins freely in hand and when raised. No scraping witness marks. How thick is the large concave washer? I have a set but they look too thick and may not be the right ones. I'm wondering if too much toe in (before I do the alignment) could make it harder to return to center? That's what I'm thinking right now but want to look at it all before buttoning it all up for the alignment.
  12. Very cool, what, no 4cyl band? Haha That'd be cool to have, yet another tool with so much info Iget even more confused.
  13. I just went through the timing and idle yesterday, so first time running again after a while. 38/38 Weber on stock engine. Timing (slightly bouncy) at 28* 1400 rpm, equaled about 10* at idle with vac advance so pinned at stock timing references. Vacuum is rock steady at 20in at idle (that was when setting idle to 900rpm, not teed off with vac advance) One full turn of both idle screws is the highest vacuum and gives about 14.0 afr at idle. I ran it around the block at all I saw was 13s down to 12.5ish when smashing into WOT running through the gears (15 when throttle snapped shut). I have to align and look at the strut bearings before doing a proper long runout. Here is my 38/38 setup just for info
  14. How much of a trans does it actually need? I thought many are direct drive now?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.