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theNomad last won the day on July 19 2018

theNomad had the most liked content!

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  1. Clearance between spacers and the brakes? Accidentally bent the brake backing cover? Did you do brakes at the same time? I flipped the brake spring upside down accidentally which caused a grinding.
  2. When I had mine out I stitched some weld beads down the sides where the two halves come together. Went slow, moved side to side.
  3. The control arms dont flex, they are a rigid part of the suspension system. These plates prevent any fatigue and extra, unintended flex or bending or cracking over time. You can weld them in but you won't notice any difference. They just keep old straight things straight.
  4. In order to get an actual shorter shift you'll need a longer shaft below the ball. This increases the throw as it pivots on the ball. One issue is the clearance from the mount to the driveshaft, you don't have a lot of space, but could change the shifter plate to be more rigid (and probably rattly/buzzy) The ball has to fit down into the shift mount unless you cut up the mount to make a new ball mount or bolt that posted type of flange it. I took a stock lower shift lever and welded a plain rod to it with end threaded. This way I got rid of the ever spinning knob. I made the knob about 1 inch lower so the throw is effectively shorter, and I like it so far. feels good and solid. I wasn't looking for a shift lever with just a 1/4" throw into each gear. No I'm not racing, yes it could be tightened up a little more but I drove an E30 with a short shift kit that had such a tight short throw that it was actually a hindrance to smooth shift/downshift. There is no real benefit (IMO) to make a manual shifter throw as short as a sequential up/down bump. A little shorter and more positive...ok, but some people seem to think every single input should be an on/off switch slammed as hard and fast as possible... clutch, gas, shift, steer, brake... 100%... all the time... and they go through a lot of parts
  5. I don't think I saved that file when I made mine
  6. As mentioned: Practice, deburr, light oil, and I found I was overtightening it going ham fisted at first, then I started to get the feel. I was using Cunifer lines
  7. I think I sanded it, then polished the plastic with lens polish. This is bright, so very easy to see. As was stated, a switch inline could be used if I feel like turning it off.
  8. Didn't find this install particularly difficult... Now, I would like a 3D model bracket or spacer that would allow for installing E30 Sunvisors perfectly in the stock locations.
  9. Buy a tii bracket and try it out. Fab up a bracket and try it. The tii is slightly lower than the e21. Search for my posts on my e21 adventure.
  10. After trying the E21 low mount bracket, I know that path wont work with 80A and 90A e30 alternators due to interference with the oil filter head and possibly the pulley offset. The tii low mount is lower than the e21 so it may solve the frame rail issue but not sure on the pulley offset. If you want more amps, I suggest the rebuild at higher amp if you can afford it and find it locally. If you want a bmw upgrade, get the e30 upper alt mount bracket (upper location,) and the 80A alt. Snip a few wires and good to go. If you want to do custom work, then modify a single wire alt, or any other you'd like. Mine is a cheap/small toyota 4 runner 70A alternator on an e21 low mount bracket, both modified to fit.($75, lifetime warranty) Works great. If I have to change it, or something breaks I'll probably just go back to stock. Mine was more of a proof of concept... time waster... rebel without a cause... etc
  11. And, of course another question is WHY do you need more amps? Stereo stuff? Are you running out? Sometimes the quest for "more" just for "more" isn't worth the effort.
  12. The lower mount may or may not have the same width as the e21 alt. May need to shim or file the alt. The e21 low mount bracket and alt is a no go for the e10, but the tii mount puts it a little lower than the e21 "I think", so it would probably fit. The offset of the pulley is the only other unknown. It'd be worth it to buy one and try, if it can be returned easily. If it fits then its a minor wiring plug change.
  13. No way it could be that lean and "run fine" IMO. It's gotta be the sensor. If you have a vacuum gauge you can hook it up to the intake manifold and get best lean idle with timing light and carb settings. Iterative back and forth. I confirmed that the best vacuum at idle I can pull is at the 12 on the afm. Doesn't go lean through the rpm band but I still have to do some drive testing. Its a 38/38 so idle isn't its sweetest spot.
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