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About wegweiser

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  • Website URL http://paulwegweiser.blogspot.com/

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  • Interests people who use their brains, rock and roll, cheeky cars

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  1. wegweiser

    Rate my stubs

    It looks like new dust collars are available for about $13.00 each. For that kind of money, I'm not gonna bother reaching for a hammer and dolly (and I LOVE using hammers and dollies!) Stub axles aren't too crazy expensive, but those hubs/flanges get pricey. And a side note: tii hubs are a different part number and are rumored to be stronger. They're also just about the same price as the NON-tii ones. Completely interchangeable on a non-tii. Win-Win! illustration in this link has tii part number listed for hub / flange. http://bimmer.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2583&mospid=47141&btnr=33_0885&hg=33&fg=40
  2. wegweiser

    Rate my stubs

    From what I can see in the photos, they look OK. Splines look straight and appear to have minimal / no wear (but I'd want to see them in person before pronouncing them "perfectly fine".) That dust collar might cause you to throw fits, trying to straighten it so it doesn't contact and squeal once installed. Super close-up photos will help us, too. Cleanliness counts, when it's time to reassemble them. I use disposable paint brushes with the bristles cut down to about 8mm-12mm when I clean parts. I also make sure that there's no rust or grime under the mating surfaces of flanges / allen bolts, as those can affect accurate torque readings, when putting it all together. If this were a track car, I'd consider having them inspected / (magnafluxed?) before each season.
  3. If I can taste the salt in my nostrils, even on a dry winter day… there's salt on the roads and the F Bomb stays parked in my non-salted gravel driveway. Hopefully I'll score a small, affordable garage rental in the next couple weeks. Remember… if you're cold….THEY'RE cold. Keep 'em off the roads til you KNOW the salt is gone.
  4. wegweiser

    Exceptional tii 13" alloys (4)

    Center caps are stainless steel, so yes….they're up to snuff. I'd expect shipping to be about $100 to the west coast via UPS, if I have the tires removed. Shipping has gone plain NUTS these last few years.
  5. wegweiser

    Exceptional tii 13" alloys (4)

    Four years old, FPS / Genuine BMW tii alloys. Include all 16 lug nuts, center caps, and the nice metal factory screw-in valve stems. Currently have lame tires mounted on them (175/70-13 Khumo Solus) US sales only, please. Price does not include shipping. No curb rash, but a little dirty from a few years use. These are the ones I had on the F Bomb. Located in Pittsburgh PA. Size is 5" x 13" Would look SUPERB with Pirelli CN36 185/70 tires on them! After a quick check - these (with caps, valve stems, nuts) retail for about $1200+ new. First $900 OBO gets 'em. Also - I'm willing to offer a SUBSTANTIAL discount for local pick-up, because I hate shipping large items! You can pick them up at my door for $775. Paypal easy. I don't get mail notifications from the FAQ for some reason, so feel free to e mail me directly: zenwrenchpaul at yahoo dot com
  6. wegweiser

    70's or 60's

    I had the Khumo Solus tires for several years and found them "ok" for the first 20k miles… but they were AWFUL in the rain afterward. I installed the CN36 Pirellis about 2 months ago and they are a FAR superior tire in all respects. Running 185/70 on 5x13 tii steel wheels w 1600 covers. If the offset of your alloys is closer to the e21 (ET 18 or similar) you may have rubbing issues with 205/60s. YMMV. I LOVE my CN36s and they weren't THAT stupidly priced. About $150- each…and since tires have saved my life before, I take them seriously. Car frequently hits triple digit speeds, so quality counts.
  7. Make sure the grille isn't physically contacting something in the nose panel. New grilles probably don't fit as well as old, original ones (BMW quality ain't what it used to be)… FWIW: Matt McGinn at Sportscar Restorations did all the metal work on my last 02, and spent DAYS getting the nose/fender/grille fit correct. he even said to me: "Paul, only THESE grilles will fit this car…and this car will fit ONLY these grilles." If you have the correct Euro buckets and correct deep Euro / early grilles, that should not affect fit. Photo for comparison. **EDIT** - looks like you may be trying to fit the later shallow (USA) grilles over Euro stuff… which is likely your issue. Malaga car has early / Euro deep surround to accommodate light… blue car has mid 72 -73 (USA only) shallower type with US style headlights. Perhaps you have the US grilles. Note: blue car has never had it's grilles removed in 45 years, hence the flawless fit. EDIT Nr 2: You may have later (74-76) Euro buckets / lights, which might compound the problem. I recall there being two or more versions of each era…including Bosch vs Hella and LHD vs RHD. (after a quick scan of my ancient parts books)
  8. There's a 107,000 mile example of a 73 tii in my neck of the woods that (although the clear coat on the paint is bad) is also a remarkably original survivor. Never hit, never even been in the same building as a paint gun. I spent 3 hours crawling around it, and couldn't find any rust, except for a dime sized blister on a rocker panel. Been off the road since 1986. Mind. Blown. These cars still exist!
  9. wegweiser

    72 shift lever retainer spring ring

    I think I've done that before, too! Great tip! I had forgotten about that!
  10. wegweiser

    72 shift lever retainer spring ring

    Ugh…. of all the repairs / operations I've done on 2002s over the decades, THAT SPRING / circlip is among my least favorite. I generally never take apart that upper lever, for that reason. I've used screwdrivers and strong fingers to get it in place, but also have a few scars from that technique. maybe a combo of pliers and screwdriver (pliers to compress it….screwdriver to pop the end in / seat it) might work. Doing it "in the car" makes it worse, since it's hard to see exactly what you're doing, as you sit, uncomfortably in the front seat.
  11. The Mercedes manual does show some special tool that (perhaps?) cleans up whatever seating / cone exists within the injector housing. It's almost like a reamer or valve grinding / seating operation, if my memory is correct. I just glanced at it, and it was a little more than "disassemble… reassemble" but my experience has been very good with simple tapping of the injector while spraying through it, to get a better, more consistent spray pattern. YMMV, of course. I think I'd consider having a professional do it, ONLY because damaging one would be so costly on a tii. If they were less expensive, I'd give it a go, myself for sure!
  12. Having built a couple 300SL motors and personally handled the injectors, they ARE visually different from tii (and M1) injectors. M1 uses the same injectors as a tii, which might explain the insultingly high price in BMW's parts system. As for testing them yourself… here's a paragraph from the Mercedes service manual I'm using for a 300SE engine build… Sobering!
  13. wegweiser

    OCAP ball joints

    Re; Original Post author: Are you perhaps confusing the control arm (which does not include the ball joint any longer, when sold new) with the removable bolt-on style balljoint, perhaps? The original ones were riveted in to the arms, whereas the replacement ones are held to the arm with bolts and lock nuts. I believe most (they can be ordered as a "kit" by some manufacturers) arrive with grade 8.8 bolts and nuts which seem up to the task, but stronger bolts wouldn't be a bad idea. Some brands will not include new bolts and nuts - so be prepared with good hardware. (Side Note: I never use stainless hardware on high stress / safety items - as most commonly available alloys of it are cheap and brittle…and will gall their own threads when torqued tightly!) The most CRUCIAL bolts on the suspension IMHO, are the drilled safety wired bolts (14mm head) that attach the steering link arm to the bottom of the strut housing. You do NOT want to skimp on those (pricey) fasteners. They are at LEAST a grade 10 bolt and perhaps even 12. Lesser bolts will shear off, and if you're lucky, no-one will get killed when it happens. I use only genuine BMW hardware for those.
  14. wegweiser

    Will an electronic fuel pump help?

    If you decide to run an electric pump, I heartily suggest you get a high quality one, as well as a fuel pressure gauge / tester, and perhaps even a regulator, to ENSURE that you're getting about 3.0-3.5 psi and no more, at the carbs. Most regulators, pumps, and cheap gauges are woefully - and frustratingly inaccurate. Shop accordingly. I've found that the cheap Taiwanese chrome Summit Racing ones are pretty much useless junk…but Redline Weber makes / offers some decent ones, as does Pierce Manifolds. YMMV. HTH! Paul
  15. FWIW: I tested my own, using a professional test fixture at the shop where I worked. I found the spray patterns were pretty good, but tapping the side of the injector with my 17mm wrench a few times (while they sprayed), yielded finer / better spray patterns, as I ran high pressure mineral spirits through them. You want to check for opening pressure (around 400 psi, I recall?) as well as spray pattern. I don't currently have the test fixture set up, but any shop that does Metric fitting Diesel injection work, should be able to perform this task for you. Luckily the $700 (each!) tii injectors are nearly bulletproof! HTH! Paul