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wegweiser last won the day on May 29

wegweiser had the most liked content!

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    Pennsylvania USA
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    people who use their brains, rock and roll, cheeky cars

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  1. Have you checked with the fellas at Sports Car Restoration in the Hartford area? I bet they can help.
  2. The heads are prone to cracking near / above cylinder 4. Clean that area thoroughly and check the thin "vertical" area of the head casting near that rear-most stud for stress crack(s)
  3. I use either the tii spec filter (fairly large, solid aluminum) or the Mahle "KL11" filter (for carbed cars) which is half aluminum and half translucent plastic (also a bit smaller). I keep 5-8 of these on the shelf in my shop at all times. I will NEVER use a glass fuel filter on one of my cars. They vibrate and twist apart and cause fires. I do make little mounting loops or brackets to keep them from contacting other things in the engine bay - you'd be amazed at how even a RUBBER part can wear through the thin aluminum skin of a fuel filter over time. Short answer: You should be fine with that filter.
  4. These fancy whiz-bang valve cover gaskets are an answer to a problem THAT DOESN'T EXIST! The OEM ones (Elring / Reinz / etc) are perfectly fine. I replace them every other valve adjustment and I've never had one fail or leak due to "poor quality" in 35 years. Just because things are marketed as "upgrades" doesn't magically make them so. *wink!*
  5. Agree with tech71 They didn't bother to test drive the car and ensure the steering wheel was straight? That's simply careless. Were they truly a "specialist" or "...a guy that does a lot of work on 2002s and costs less money than other shops?"
  6. FWIW: I have an old tii block in my shop now with absolutely nothing stamped in that area... it happens...and I suspect it was a reman / replacement block at some point. Paul Wegweiser Classic BMW Services Western PA
  7. I suppose you could do it with the pinch welt in place, but I always remove it, so I can wiggle /wrestle the seal in place. The edging you're describing SHOULD overlap a small portion of the seal on the vertical surfaces (door hinge area and lower B pillar)...there's even a groove in the rubber extrusion for it! It's not like peeling off the pinch welt takes more than 8 seconds...and putting it back on takes a whopping 12 seconds. I've done 6 door gaskets in the last 6 weeks. This is very familiar territory. Paul Wegweiser Classic BMW Services Western PA
  8. What color? If it's tan/brown....posting a photo of the door panel will help us / you identify the correct color. Unless you don't care what color (?)
  9. Jim is 100% correct. I've had them fit perfectly on some fenders... and had to insulate that terminal on others... genuine BMW old vs new vs aftermarket seems to make little difference. They fit perfectly on some but not others. Easily modified / remedied... but be aware of the potential issue. I'm very pleased w the sets I've used and installed.
  10. Those are modern aftermarket ones made by "MVP" and retailers sell them for $300-400 per pair all day long. They did a nice job with these, they're just not original BMW.
  11. Pierce Manifolds will have them. Give them a call! FYI: specify "65f8" not "65 8 f" 😉 Then you'll sound like a pro! Currently installing and tuning a brand new set with that recipe on a client's car.... car runs like a sewing machine and DEFINITELY delivers the goods. Cheers! Paul
  12. I'm fairly certain you can still buy this material from BMW... the 74-76 stuff was used throughout the late 70s and early 80s on 3 and 5 series cars. Most vinyl is between $60-100 per meter (bolts of material are generally 1.2 meters wide, for reference)
  13. Fatter idle jets have cured this issue on just about every DCOE equipped car I've ever set up (except the ones with comically oversized venturis!) . Don't be afraid to try bigger/ richer 65f8 idles... or (before spending the money on larger idle jets) try richening up the idle mixture by about 1/2 turn on each cylinder. If that solves the stutter at tip-in... larger idles may be your answer.
  14. I've found modern Bosch condensers to be absolute junk. I won't use them anymore. Many are bad right out of the package. Try a known good one from a few years / decade ago and see if it helps.
  15. As many of you know by now, I'm **no longer working with Maximillian Importing** selling parts. In February I began building my own new business specializing in mechanical restoration and preservation of EXCLUSIVELY classic and vintage BMWs in Western Pennsylvania. This is both exhilarating and terrifying... but it's high time I took the plunge and started working for myself - doing what I truly love. If you have parts needs, you can still contact the folks at Maximillian using their e mail address: [email protected] but I am no longer viewing or answering any of those e mails. Saul can help you out from here onward. Current goals include buying real estate / shop space later this summer, and my plan is to remain highly specialized, drawing on my 35 years of experience and singular focus on classic BMWs from the 60s and 70s. I'll be working from my home shop as well as "moonlighting" at a few specialist shops throughout the USA over the next few months.... so it will be a wild ride, indeed! Last weekend I had the pleasure of being flown out to Laguna Seca for 4 days to handle some trackside duties for a 2002 racer.... and I had an absolute BLAST. I'm hoping to do more of that in the future! And I even got to give my favorite FAQ founder Steve, a great big vaccinated hug while I was there! (In case you're wondering - he's bigger in real life and I'm smaller!) Having been a member of this forum for the last 18(?) years, I'm hoping to increase my activity here, since this is STILL the best place to find good information for our little rats! (I'd been a bit quiet over the last couple years.... but I'll be back to litter the FAQ cyberspace with my ramblings!) Yay for Springtime and New Beginnings!!! Paul Contact info below.
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