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About wegweiser

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  • Website URL http://paulwegweiser.blogspot.com/

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  • Interests people who use their brains, rock and roll, cheeky cars

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  1. wegweiser

    Kugelfischer guide

    I installed mine (install is a loose term here) temporarily laying on my center console, because i was CONVINCED that I'd unplug it as soon as I got the mixtures where I wanted them...That was 18 months ago...the thing is still rolling around staring at me with happy mixture numbers. "Fixated" is an apt term.... I gotta do something else with it!
  2. wegweiser

    Kugelfischer guide

    And for those of you using or installing AFR gauges and wideband sensors... don't get all wrapped up in trying for that perfect 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio. Modern fuels, yadda yadda... and winter fuels seem to make mine run leaner than summer fuels do. Adjust accordingly. Some notes follow: My own tii prefers fatter idle mixtures (12.9:1 seems to do it, and anything leaner causes a slight surge) You don't want it too lean at 5000+ rpm / full throttle. Especially if you're running high comp pistons. Mine settles in at around 12.9-13.5 in that range As you drive, the mixture will constantly change. Don't let it drive you crazy. Set your ignition timing and valve adjustment FIRST: For a tii: 32 degrees maximum advance at 3500rpm and above. Your timing at idle will be whatever... not nearly as important for preventing engine damage! I use only the front timing marks on the pulley for this. I never bother squinting at the flywheel marks...which is way more work IMHO. make sure your distributor is actually advancing properly throughout the rpm range. You need an adjustable timing light for this. An essential tool - even if you're just double-checking your fancy whiz-bang 1-2-3 distributor. It's easy to install the 1-2-3 and still be off by a couple degrees when compared to actual ignition timing checked with a timing light! ALWAYS double check! And yes....an AFR gauge is a fantastic tuning aid. I wish all 2002s had them!
  3. wegweiser

    Fuel sending unit needed

    TodB - FYI: European sending units have an extra wire for "low fuel light" which illuminates the bulb we in the USA use for "brake failure". If it's for the 51liter (later) tank, it should work fine.
  4. Since next month will be the first time I'm finally going to MidAmerica, am I yet worthy? Thank you! These are great!
  5. wegweiser

    Good DIY Projects on a 2002?

    I think the single best bang for the buck improvement you can make on a 2002 is as follows: Remove door panel and clean / re-lubricate window guides and all sliding parts. Replace worn or missing lock rod grommets. These are about the size of a pea, and there are 3 per door. They're the culprits behind almost ALL door rattles Remove and clean / re-lubricate door latch assemblies. Parts / materials required: small disposable paint brushes (acid brushes or flux brushes are great for this. Cut the bristles down to 6-10mm to make them stiffer lock rod grommets (6 per car) Part nr: 52 20 8 238 999 brakleen, lots of rags, lacquer thinner, etc Aerosol lubricant. I steer clear of lithium grease, as it turns in to clay over time. Also - WD-40 is a "meh" lubricant - but it's great for D...isplacing W...ater. If you want to get fancy: Wurth HHS-K or bicycle chain lube is great stuff for this project. Sprays on thin to get into crevices / mechanisms...then sets up firmly to stay in place. Look for broken pieces of old door brakes while you're in there. Grab some heavy plastic and re-insulate the door shell to protect the cardboard of the door panel from moisture - 3M Spray adhesive works well for this. the original door panel clips were white and used small grommets. The new ones are a green one-piece affair and grip tenaciously. There are about 24 per car. 51 41 1 870 718. Now is a good time to clean and lubricate the delicate lock cylinders / levers and everything else in there. The improvement in civity and rattle reduction is dramatic. Super cheap. Immediate gratification....Worth it! 🙂
  6. wegweiser

    half shaft can lid

    FWIW: When I was working for a full-tilt racing shop, the techs would purposely install the tiny aerosol spray straws inside / extending out from the boot before tightening the clamp - to allow for venting as temperatures rose. YMMV.... If you're using the aftermarket boots, you may find they begin to crack in a few years anyway (mine lasted 5 years / 60,000 miles +/-) ....so "air tight" is a relative term, anyway. It's a shame - as the original ones lasted 40+ years! Use of synthetic materials instead of rubber is the issue, I suspect. Luckily they're dirt cheap.
  7. Another sneaky source for trunk fuel smell is the rubber filler boot that goes to the quarter panel. If you haven't ever replaced it, try removing it and then stretching it with your fingers while you hold it upside down. You may find tiny hairline cracks in it - as I did in mine. The top looked perfect, but after hours of sleuthing, I found those hairline cracks to be the source of my vapor odor. Tip: The four screws that hold that filler boot clamping ring to the quarter panel are NOT symmetrical! Mark "top" with a piece of tape before you remove it. I've never had odor / vapor leak from the un-clamped factory hoses (BMW certainly didn't clamp them and when the hoses are in good condition, no clamps are needed on the vapor side of things)
  8. wegweiser

    I must be low on blinker fluid....

    a) bad connection or ground at the signal assembly b) reversed wires. 21w filament should be signal. 5w filament for parking light c) excessive resistance in the wiring from signal / switch to / from flasher relay d) see above: a little tweaking of the spring inside the relay itself can compensate for this often times. Gently pull the black cover off and you will see exactly which "lever" toggles back and forth to trigger the dash indicator. Making that spring effectively "weaker" allows it to function when there's excessive resistance in the wiring. It beats replacing meters of old wiring, usually - and I've had a 90% success rate with this repair. I'd check items a & b first, however! This is a super common (and fixible) quirk of 2002s. Hope this helps!
  9. wegweiser

    3D Printing, Sunroof Cables, and Hate

    THIS RIGHT HERE is why we are so much cooler than other people. a) sharing of information b) creative problem solving c) community. I absolutely love this! Carry on!
  10. If y'all are looking for the sweet COMPLETE Euro headlight assemblies, I can get them to the USA for about $370 per side. Specify year when ordering. These are the H4 BOSCH ones and are Genuine BMW. 🙂 I had these on my last 02 and loved them!
  11. wegweiser


    I bet if you lubricate it with some spray stuff / penetrating oil and gently move it back and forth for about 15 minutes, you have a very good chance of bringing it back to life without spending 11+ hours taking the whole thing apart. That's what I'd do.... in my 30+ years of 2002 silliness, I've had very good luck with saving these without complete disassembly. Relay for the AC is usually on the passenger side of the engine bay - and I think it's for the aux electric fan in front of the radiator. Rob Siegel is the AC guru... he'll be able to offer you more info than I can on that specific stuff. I pitch the AC on all my cars.
  12. They actually DID re-make a run of trunk lids in the 1990s. The cost on the fresh ones was $700 if I recall correctly. We were all so naive back then...and thought $700 was ungodly expensive.... how times have changed! I bet they'd sell reasonably well at $700 now, if the quality was good. Sometimes I wish my car was worth $2400 again.
  13. wegweiser


    i recommend you take a long slender screwdriver and see if the fan blades move ***BEFORE*** laying 12 volts on that circuit. A seized motor could very well zorch your wiring before the fuse blows. Melted wiring would make a miserable heater repair job even worse. Be smart. And in reference to "being smart"....don't do what I did: DON'T Spray a bunch of flammable lubricant on the fan while the switch is on, and then create a spark by wiggling the wires with your finger while your face is cozied right up next to it, on the top of the firewall. You'll lose some eyebrows. You'll feel dumb. Trust me.
  14. Absolutely! YES! Chrome headrest rings for the later seats (12mm version but not smaller/earlier 10mm version) AFFORDABLE tii water pumps, paper gasket for tii throttle body lids, front tall overrider bumper rubber pads, firewall insulation (just last summer!) and many many other parts. There's light at the end of some parts tunnels! ALL GENUINE BMW!
  15. As John mentioned, Dealerships (and ourselves) have access to worldwide inventory status at the touch of a keyboard. I can tell you for instance, that as of 8:30pm tonight - March 7th 2019, there are 14 (FOURTEEN) tii front wheel hubs remaining in Europe and 4 (FOUR) E28 rear trunk mats sitting on a shelf in Germany. At $272.00 each, I don't think they're going to sell those hubs too quickly, but you never know. The trunk mats are about $105 each, if memory serves. As for NLA stuff... I don't have any magic wand to make such parts magically appear. I've found that when I DO source a rare or NLA part for a customer, they tend to remember two things: a) We sold a really expensive part and b) we can get NLA stuff. Neither of which is really helping us spread the word that we can offer killer prices on the common and easy regular parts. Like Uro tail light lenses (round for $229/pair or $259/pair for square ones!) Contributing to the issue, is that we use BMW's parts diagrams and they have not removed the prices from many parts that are NLA - giving folks the impression that they're available. I always prefer that my 2002 folks e mail me directly for this stuff. That way you get personal, analog, accurate information and service from a 2002 pro that cares about the details.