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  1. Evening, I'm re-doing the rear suspension (all spare pieces) with Energy Suspension pieces from BLUNT. I can't find a definitive answer (all manner/type of searching has occurred): Which direction does the thicker side face for the rear cross member bushing face? Looking at my car (part is still in), and some pictures, including part sites, the thicker seems to be towards the back. Since this is a press in piece, I want to get this right. Thanks Allan
  2. I'm hoping I don't get flamed to badly for proposing this, but I need to come up with a solution to my problem. I have a 76 that have resurrected from sitting for 10+ years. The only thing I use the car for is autocross and an occasional cruise around the neighborhood. I've taken it to 3 autocrosses so far and had a great time, however suffered a strange intermittent ignition failure on 2 occasions and had to be towed home both times. I think I have the current issue fixed, but it's just a matter of time before something else breaks on a 40 year old car. I really need a way to transport the car to and fro and get it home when it breaks. I live in the city and don't have room for a huge auto transport trailer. I might be able to find room for a dolly. But what I'd really like to do is just use a tow bar. Anyone know of people doing this with track cars? I understand I would need to overfill the trans to get lube to the main shaft (any idea how to do this?). I'm comfortable fabricating mounts for the bar. Keep in mind this is not a nice restored car and probably never will be. Thanks!
  3. I am renewing the front suspension of my 74 Tii this winter. I currently have older Bilstein HDs and will be keeping them as they seem in good condition. My question is what color was original for the BOGE strut tubes? Mine were black but appeared to have been painted with a spray can as the paint easily was scrapped away to reveal bright yellow. Were the tubes shipped to BMW in yellow and painted prior to assembly or was yellow the correct color as delivered?
  4. I bought a '69 02 a few years ago and have sorted out most of the major operating issues it had when I first bought it. While the car is parked for the cold Canadian winter, I have decided to plug away and clean up some of the more minor irritants I noted while driving it last summer. I was able to find a used 320i 3 spoke sport steering wheel online locally, and recently began removal of the old steering wheel, and install of the upgrade. Before starting I printed off the general install article from Bay area 02 and found it mostly helpful. I've run into a road block however, because the previous owner didn't have a horn attached to whatever generic steering wheel he had installed. The horn consisted of 2 loose wires attached to a button you'd depress with your thumb to activate if needed. The button was/is dangling just below the steering column. Where I run into the issue is I don't have the contact pin that would have been found originally on the 02. I do though have the brass ring that was just left neglected on the column by the last owner. What I'm wondering is, would it be easier to pick up another contact pin, or grab a horn contact adaptor like the one discussed in other postings? I guess it depends on how the horn is wired currently, but I thought I'd ask if anyone had some suggestions before I dig too deep. Thanks in advance...
  5. It was so dirty, I though it said 69' but it is in fact a 1989. i imagine it's from a 325, bu will be looking online to be sure. Why would you change this out?
  6. Does any1 have any experience with these? i originally was going to go with the complete kit from blunt tech, but i don't need the ball joints, control arm, etc. Plus, i got an amazon gift card for $170.00. i'm in the process of refreshing my front subframe bushings. But i don't know which exactly to switch out (i don't know the names to them). I know to be safe just replace all of them... here are some pics:
  7. Here are some pics of one of my rear shocks. Restored a 74 2002 and never did the shocks so do not know if these are original. I get some knocking in the rear as if the suspension is "bottoming" out but the shocks do not seem shot when I press down on trunk with my hands. thoughts? If I do replace,what are the right replacements (just standard versions). many thanks, PeterCS 74 2002 82 315 Baur
  8. I have the rear Koni shocks from a M'tang SVO to try on my o2. The bottom attachmnt sleeve for the bolt is size 12mm and the o2 use a 10mm stud. what would be an easy way to fill the gap ? I remember ToBy using a hose clip strap for a strut top bearing gap I could do the same for the low attchmnt if I'm lucky to find the right thickness Ideally a switch to uretane bushing with the right sleeve If I'm please.
  9. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Sweet-Mfg-301-30275-Power-Steering-Servo-275-Medium-Heavy,32712.html It comes up from time to time. So here's one way to do it, I guess- an all- in- one unit. Cheaper than a year's gym membership. At least, until you add the pump, brackets and plumbing... Your Mileage Will Vary, t
  10. Looking for item 5 in the diagram below.. the small plastic red plug for the gear oil fill hole on the box. Yes, I can get it for $11 and shipping from Max, but maybe someone has one lying around for a more reasonable price? Or better yet, any clever alternatives I can just pick up at Ace? I thought of a rubber stopper, but not sure if that mixes well with gear oil. Any other thoughts? Thanks - Randy PS - if by chance you want to swap a good plug (and a little cash) for a new set of Ireland front bushings, then that would be perfect
  11. I am in the process of rebuilding my steering box. The rebuild is done and all seems well with the box. Last night I was planning on reinstalling the box and buttoning up the steering. When reconnecting the center tie rod link to the drop arm I noticed that I somehow screwed up the threads on the ball joint and can't start the castle nut on the threads. What are my options? Replace the center link ($), try to chase the threads with a tap (if I can find one, M10x1)? The ball joint doesn't appear to be replaceable in the link.
  12. I have the steering box out of my car, disassembled, cleaned and ready for reassembly. I didn't notice when I pulled it apart that 2 of the 3 shims have a series of notches in them. My question is what orientation do the shims go back in and what order. i.e. notches to the right with solid shim nearest cover etc. Also, is it necessary to use the 2 cap screws or can 4 hex bolts as supplied with the refurb kit be used for the shim cover.
  13. Hi again, Another question which hopefully someone can help. In the process of doing a coilover upgrade on my front struts, dealing with a ground control kit. Everything seems to be good except when I put my threaded collar over my strut & the split sleeve that comes with the kit, there is still a lot of play in its sitting. Probably 1mm of space each side. Has anyone had to solve this problem? I was thinking of getting some rubber O rings to help hold it in place or help seat it properly but not sure. Any information is highly appreciated. Thank you for your time, Arlo.
  14. I know it is dangerous but have been checking out the evil inter web searching for more info on my suspension rebuild - IE front swaybars waiting to go in - and found these http://store.garagistic.com/e30-performance-parts/e30-2002-weld-on-tabs Wondering what a "spirited street / weekend warrior" would gain from something like this versus the standard swaybar attachment points. Cheers
  15. Any idea why there would be two cancel tabs?? Changed out the blinker stalk and saw this. Why two different sizes?? TK
  16. Hello Any tips on removing the rectangular horn pad on my 76. Looks like it lifts from the top. Thanks
  17. Hello all. I need some advice on replacing front end bushings. My '73 restoration project has around 169,000 miles. Some of the front end bushings are disintegrating. I am curious about replacement options. Some of you who have opted for Urethane bushings- what are the positives and negatives? Do they really tighten up the steering and control better than stock rubber bushings? Is the ride harsh or noisy with Urethane? Do they require any lubrication? If so, what works best? My car will be a driver, not a racer, but I would like a good handling vehicle.
  18. from Datsun forum comparing inserts from VW mk1 and z car. couldn't find reference throught search. ( even try 'Toby z' ) Could they fit into o2 strut? I guess Z'cars have heavier nose but 510guys use them. Why asking ? Cause I was looking for red Koni and I find a good local offer.
  19. Sorry if it's buried somewhere and I haven't found it, but: does anyone know what the taper is on the ball joints? I've got some silly ideas for a spare front subframe and looking to see if there are 'long' ball joints that would work on the lower. Thanks Allan
  20. The Steering box on my car is difficult to turn at the middle of its' swing. I can turn the coupling bracket by hand through the rough parts, but it does not do the full sweep when pushing the arm. It is disconnected from the center link. The steering wheel needed larger back and forth adjustments at interstate speeds so I suspect I need to address this. I read the worm gear is likely worn- who can I send this to? Is this a repair by replacement thing? Should I just drive it? Thanks,
  21. I fear the worst, but want an expert verdict. I pulled my subframe and had it blasted and was prep'ing to POR it when I noticed the items I saw in the pix. The drive side rail that bolts to the chassis is flat, but the pass side is cocked on a pretty noticeable angle. Also when I look at the metal near where the motor mount bolt is, it is kinked and the bolt has no chance of getting through the hole... I assume when new, that bolt was intended to freely pass through the hole. Nayway, the other confession I have is that I know this car was whacked in an accident in the past from the front passenger side, so I expect that is what did this. But what I fear even more is that when the subframe was bolted to the chassis, it appeared to be flush with the rails.... so now I need to see how badly the pass side rail is tweaked. Sick feeling in my stomach Thanks - Randy
  22. Received a spec readout after doing alignment at a local tyre shop and the camber specs are bothering me a bit. Left : -1deg 18' and Right : -0deg 30' . I must add that I have fixed camber plates installed, new strut mounts and new polybushes, lower ball joints are also in good condition and there doesn't appear to be any damage to the control arms. There car hasn't been in any accidents from what I can tell. What would be an acceptable difference in camber angle between the two sides ? And any recommendations on what I could do to rectify this, just short of installing adjustable camber plates ? thanks 02G
  23. Removing the rear axle nut with the suspension a part this is what I came up with. Worked better the I was expecting
  24. Question for you wise folks: (searching me netted little info regarding old bushings) Were there shorter bushings in the older (long neck diff) cars? I pulled out some old trailing arms I got from a 68 2002 to do a quick test fit on a new to me rear sub frame, and there was lots of spare room (5mm on each side). There isn't much bushing sticking out the side of the mount. (1 or 2 mm). The bushing measures 60mm, the sub frame mounts have a 70mm opening. Did the old cars have smaller mounts? The sub frame that were mated to those trailing arms made it to the scrap bin because of rust, so I can't check. RealOEM shows the trailing arm part number the same through the range, and the bolt being 90mm. I can't find any long neck diff pictures to see bolt length. Looking at my 73 tii the bushings stick out more and seem to be 70mm Should these old arms be OK with new bushings? Thanks Allan
  25. Hello, I'm looking at a 71' for sale that has some pretty good rot in the passenger shock tower. The driver side tower a little something going on too. I have very little experience with welding and wanted to get an opinion on how complicated this repair can get? The rest of the car looks pretty solid. The guy is asking around $3500 and I'm not sure it's worth it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much!
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