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My computer is back. The graphic card died trying to model this lens. Re-did the prismatic features. Printed a sample. Form and fit are good. However, still need to mess around with print settings for the "clear" printer material. I spent about a month trying to model this lens. Mostly because I had no 3D sketching skills and had to learn/discover everything required to model such a thing; Learned quite a bit. I think there are a number of these dome lights out there with damaged or missing lens. The STL model is at Thingiverse. My small way of paying it forward.

Hey Murph- the slats came w the grills. I did not modify them. Perhaps i trimmed one or two the air cleaner is from a two barrel carburetor 72-76 - it is highly modified. Was pretty rough to start with so I was less concerned if I screwed up. I like it though.

That is class A work. And fast! Usually these are in the back corner waiting for time between collision repairs of newer vehicles.

Came across a piece of wood with a certain characteristic. I give you "The Eye of Sauron" ?

Installed it and took a brief look, seems to be working and I like the software, but we'll want more data to really get a feel for things. My first piece of advice is that when you take a datalog, you want to get good long stretches of 'common' driving conditions. So get a few good long idle sessions (this log has one or two, so that's OK), then you want some cruising at different but constant RPMs. So cruise for a while at 2500, 3500, and 5000 RPM for say 30 full seconds each. Then you want some full throttle measurements, so run through the low gears a few times with full throttle up to redline. Lastly, again run up through the rev range but at part throttle, like you'd accelerate in traffic but keep the throttle constant and let it rev all the way up. Biggest thing I see from this log is that the acceleration enrichment needs some work; you're getting big lean spikes whenever you're rolling on or off the throttle. Does the sniper autotune accel enrichment too and/or are there manual settings to play with? Oh, and probably the best/simplest way that I like to view a datalog is as follows: Start with RPM, MAP, and AFR graphs. This lets you see the engine's 'response' (AFR) at a given speed (RPM) and load (MAP). This gives the best overview, then you can add/subtract stuff to look at specifics in small areas. Lastly, I'm definitely going to recommend changing your ignition timing a bit; 2.7 degrees at idle is kinda ridiculously low; you should be somewhere in the teens. 36-37 degrees all in looks pretty good though. And generally you can run *more* advance at low throttle and *less* at higher load, and I think you have that a bit the other way around. Hope this helps!

Its a Tesoro cake! A "schwarzwälder kirschtorte !"

Eerily, my 1976 '02 was purchased from a guy who had taken the car in to have the engine rebuilt. His mechanic finished the rebuild but did not have the engine completely put back together, when he took another customer's car out for a test drive and was t-boned and killed by a driver that ran a stop sign. The mechanic's widow called the '02's owner and said he'd better get the car, because the bank was going to pad lock the place and it would take months to get things sorted out. The guy picked it up and decided he was done with the project and sold the car to me. My uncle ("old fart" on the FAQ) and I spent the past year restoring "Erwin" His rebirth occurred on April 23, 2013. We finished putting the engine back together; replaced floor pans (both were rusted through from a leaking windshield; replaced the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and clutch components; brake master cylinder, wheel cylinders, calipers and pads; new starter, alternator, battery and rebuilt carburetor; and repainted the car its original color, Sahara. In addition, we fixed, replaced and/or repaired a host of other things to numerous to count. The interior needs to be redone, but that will have to wait until this winter, since I won't sacrifice the great summer driving weather. We went through a lot to get this car back to running like an '02 should. So if you need some advice or are stuck with a problem, it's probably something folks on the FAQ have dealt with and will be glad to share what we have learned. This is a great resource, do use it. Erwin has rolled over 3,000 mile since firing up and is running better all the time. Good luck with your project, the reward will be driving your wonderful car.

Center caps are on! Thanks @butteiful I'll get some more pics when I take the car for a drive this weekend.

Well thank you sir! Z's M54 is not for this one. I'm thinking M10 Forced induction atm but we'll see

I mounted this Hall Sensor 1191400100 JP Group Bremi 16513 FACET Sensor, Zündimpuls 8.2693 VEMO Sensor, Zündimpuls V10-72-1150 BOSCH Reparatursatz, Zündverteiler 1 237 011 076 Volkswagen Golf II (19) 1.0 HZ Volkswagen Golf II (19) 1.3 NZ Volkswagen Jetta II (16) 1.3 NZ Volkswagen Polo Classic (87) 1.3 Volkswagen Polo II (80) 1.0 HZ Volkswagen Polo II (80) 1.0 Sedan AAU into the old ti distibutor (blocked mechanical advance) I removed one of the hall sensor gates so it is a 4-1 setup (or is it a 3-1 setup?). It took some machining to do it nice. I did it twice with different methods I'll dig out some pics.

No. Just annual oil change. Takes 1.5 L Oh and then there is noise of straight cut gears...

What a great story, thanks for sharing! You've found some amazing places!

The car is in SoCal on the coast. Not a lot of days require A/C, so I'll leave that for the next owner. Thanks, Mark

Impressed by that booth! Congrats on the progress so far👍

Yes I am in the process of removing those big brackets right now. Thank you for the info!

I’d repaint it white if you’re interested in authenticity. I would, but that just me.

Bart is an artist when it comes to the metal work. Nice thing about sending the vehicle to him is that he just does restorations and isn't a collision place. My goal is to get the entire chassis completed (body, subframes, brakes, suspension, wheels & tires) within one year, and then year two complete the interior and drivetrain.

Do NOT toss the booster. You can have it sent out for rebuild. Great progress!

That's lots of work done? Hood has such a nice patina that almost shame to paint it ?

Great looking inspirational cars! I'm working on a full restomod including repaint and want to retain the factory Granada Red ('71 car) but love the schwarz and would love to see other combinations like you posted and see if they'd work in the Red/Black combination too.

Mockery

Jim, thanks bud. Yes, the Jenvey ITBs are as good as you've heard. I don't have much experience with other brands, but Patrick (mechanic who put it all together for me) told me out of all the ITB builds he's done, he likes these the best so far. They're not too boggy down in the lower RPMs and they sound awesome. Yes that is my Uncle's place in the picture. His yard is like a park! He landscapes everything himself and is one fit 72 year old. I really enjoy visiting his place. He helped me a lot with car.

Well the original heater assembly shall be obviated in this case ??

Ja, ich spreche Deutsch, habe alles verstanden...?

Vise. ?

Very nice!

Very nice work!

The problem is that I am a total dumb ass and when I was shimming out the oil pump last time I replaced the pan I put a shim the wrong way around and caused a leak. That being said the guts of the old pump look tired so I will put in a new one. The problem is that I need the splined sprocket, and I should change the chain, so I.E to the rescue. Dammit!, why didn't I trust my instinct and order one with it... the first dollar is your best dollar. The good thing is that I trusted my instinct around my old header and knew it was about to give up the ghost. Lowe and behold when I was under there yesterday it has a healthy crack at the collector. Hopefully, my Tri-Y ceramically coated fat chilli dog is done and shipped soon, The AFR will be affected because the crack is upstream from my O2 sensor. Jorge always hooks me up, so I will have to just chill until things arrive.

Tom's shift knob was inspired by the uber rare Alpina knob. Long bodied - yet, sitting low on the stick. I was just trying to keep up with his gorgeous unicorn E9 interior.

I can attest to Tsingtao's beautiful work... This cocobolo knob is an "upgrade' from the earlier beautiful knob, and a better match to the wood tones in my E9. Sorry Trieu, circumstances (travel) have prevented me from doing some nice daylight shots!?

Beeautiful. (you know to be especially careful of the Cocobolo dust, right?)

Apparently they siamesed the rear subframe chassis mounts of the 02 to the rest of the subrame from the m3 to get it to bolt up to the 02. I'll get more pictures. It's the weirdest thing when you open the hood- struts are in the wrong spot. I can tell you this, I have ALL the records from when they worked on the car, including boxes full of actual pictures, binders full of notes on the entire build. There are documented over 700 hours of labor, broken down by what got done each day. Dude paid for all of that AND the m3 to strip AND the 02. Granted the cars were less expensive back in the 90's, but still. Top hanging pedals from the m3, too. Whole thing is just over the top. Seems like a nice little car, just needs some love.

I've gone as far as backfilling the big, threaded hole for the brake booster vacuum port on sidedraft manifolds with epoxy... if nothing else, for my OCD.

This, right here...I never liked the TEP drilling thing or the marine batter box version either & also having a Tii, getting the battery out of there makes things much easier under the hood.

Congrats!

Went through a couple of iterations for fit checks. Had to make some features much thicker to compensate for 3D printing. Model completed. File is at Thingiverse.

Yes, I will be out in Oct, Nov, Dec and Jan.. ? (LOL!) If I can.. I will! ? In the meantime, I'll be posting the dates that I will be arriving...

You're halfway through to "shaving" the handles & going with fob-operated auto lock poppers! I kid... ?

That bumper (combined with deleting the side markers, license lights and rear red reflectors) really let the lines of the bodywork speak for themselves. Great choices, looks beautiful.

No, that is a Stone Gray ‘76. It’s mine. I can tell by the way it smokes.

Bravo Andrew, I know it is an anthropomorphic, however, Vern is smiling deeply and genuinely now.? So much attention and love, such careful grooming, don't let Cindy get jealous . I very much look forward to seeing you Vern, and Cindy if she can make it at the Oktoberfest. The TISA Will be left scruffy, I will wash it and check its fluids, which is why we'll be in the display only section. I do look forward to beating the snot out of the racecar. In a concession to 2002 love I put some helicopter tape on the face of the car. See you soon buddy, best regards Peter

Since Jim piled on, I have to say the paint on those Bilsteins does not match the rest of the car ?

Let me know when you want to work in Savannah. I'll buy lunch.

I keep coming back here to stare at your "speed holes". They are so pretty!

I would agree with all the comments having an original 69' Bristol myself. Your color looks spot on as well. It will change a bit when you get all the trim on and take it outside. The old definition battleship grey however is pretty accurate. However I like most of the 2002 colors. I don't find any boring.

Red 2002s are the best 2002s.

Having now owned 1563735 for about 3 months and spent a lot of time with her, I've developed a plan for going forward, but before detailing the plan going forward I'd like to go back in order to bring the story up to the current day. Engine My first desire with the car was to get the engine running, which I have detailed here. I'm proud to report that the little 4 is running well. It idles with a steady 22 Hg vacuum at 1000 rpm, and revs well up to 4000 ( haven't tried going further ). The ignition and carb are stock, and in my short experience a pleasure to work with, so my plan is to keep it as it is. Body The second item on my agenda was to see what was under the pinkish paint, in order to get an idea of what kind of body work I would be dealing with if I were to keep the car and try to restore it. You can see the results of nearly a gallon of aircraft stripper and a bit of DA sander work. Here's how it looks after removing the pinkish paint, the factory Turf and the primer below. After stripping and light sanding I put on a coat of Fluid Film, which has kept the rust away and has a pleasant beeswax smell. The drivers side is pretty good, other than the rocker panel, while the passenger side is in need of a bit more love. Either way, it needs a lot of work, but in general what can't be repaired can be replaced. Of course, however, with these cars the problem is not what you can see but what you can't see, and on this one that is doubly true. While a good portion of the underbody is in passable condition, it will need a new drivers' side frame rail, and new drivers and passenger side floorpans. This will be my biggest undertaking to date in terms of bodywork, and I'm excited for the challenge. I'll be detailing this work on a separate blog post once it gets beyond the stripping phase. I'm guessing some people would wonder why I'll go to all the work of restoring this specimen when its in need of so much body, underbody/frame work, and I'm wondering the same, especially when pricing out how much I'll spend on new sheet metal and a frame rail. By now, I'm emotionally in for a penny and thus in for a pound, so here goes. Transmission/Clutch After getting the engine running, the next task was to get it shifting! Unfortunately, the clutch disc was frozen to the flywheel and after numerous hacky attempts at disengaging it, I ultimately had to take the transmission out. The procedure was not as bad as I feared, and after unsticking the clutch disc from the flywheel I was able to inspect the clutch components. This point of the adventure was when I first realized the challenge of an older 1600 vs something newer. The 6 bolt flywheel and its related 200mm components ( the clutch pressure plate and disc ) seem to be both nearly unobtainable and also expensive. So instead of messing with them too much, I decided to do what I could to remove rust and put a smooth finish on the flywheel and the pressure plate without taking them to a machine shop. I put it all back together knowing that I'd need to address these items in a more grown-up fashion down the road, but wanted to see if I could make them work as is. After re-installing and lots of adjusting of the nut that moves against the clutch fork, I was able to get the clutch working. Its the first mechanical clutch I've ever used, and I must say it is smooth and enjoyable to use! The transmission shifts well through all 4 gears and seems to be in good condition. Ideally, when I address this again I'd like to have the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate resurfaced, as well as get a new clutch disc, but that is a battle for a later date. Brakes In order to test out the condition of the transmission and clutch, I needed brakes! They were completely frozen when I got the car, so a full overhaul was in order. Before I was aware of the differences between the early 1600s and other 2002s, I ended up ordering a good amount of brake components that were not compatible. If anyone needs brand new 2002 drums and brake shoes, let me know because I have them NIB! After puzzling over how to obtain rear drums and pads, I decided to block off the brake line to the rear and just get the front working. The front calipers were also a puzzle to get working. My first approach was to rehab the old calipers, but they were so frozen that I initially gave up and decided to order new calipers. Then I searched for new 2 piston calipers and couldn't really find them. Finally I though I did find some on Amazon, so I ordered them but when they arrived they were the 4 piston calipers. BLERG! So, I refocused my efforts on the old calipers. Above is a refurbished piston. I ordered a repair kit that said it was for the 2 piston calipers and it wasn't, so then I ordered another repair kit and it was. Finally after an inordinate amount of work I was able to refurbish them into working condition. First Drive So, with a running engine, shifting transmission, and functional brakes I was able to take her for her first drive in probably over 25 years. We only went down the alley and around the block, but in doing so I was able to test out the engine, transmission, clutch and brakes. They all passed their first test! Electrical So, naturally after getting a car driving, you want to get it blinking. The headlights were easy- just had to replace the passenger side bulb and they function as expected! The rear lights and the front blinkers were another story. At some point, someone salvaged the front turn signals, so I had to splurge and by some used ones of off this forum. The rear lights were a puzzle to me, and I fought with them for awhile as I tried to discern the electrical diagram in the Haynes manual. After much work with the test light and the voltmeter, I was able to get the tail lights working, but still no brake lights and no blinking. Something had to be done, since it was a pain for me to read that stupid diagram. It was making me think I had lost my 20/20 vision, so I scanned it in and enlarged it and began working on annotating it with proper colors. Attached here Is my initial efforts at enlarging and annotating the 1600 (typical) wiring diagram. Here's a link to the 76MB enlarged scan before I did anything with it. Feel free to use and distribute as you see fit! And this is a pdf of my annotated version, along with a pdf of the wiring legend. In the end I determined that the brake lights weren't working for 2 reasons. The first reason is that the fuse for that circuit was of incorrect type. It actually turned out that the fuses for all but 2 of the circuits were incorrect. But fixing that solved the initial problem with the brakes lights. The second problem with the brake lights was that it seems like the hydraulic brake switch is no longer working. I'm unsure if this is because I cut off the line to the rear drums, or because the switch is faulty, but either way I decided that I knew enough to proceed. The blinkers were another story, as they wouldn't do anything. After replacing the flasher unit with the NAPA EL-13, they still didn't work. So I ended up taking a closer look at the turn signal switch, and with the help of the voltmeter I was able to determine that it was incorrectly wired. The diagram linked above didn't really help with this, because the wire layout didn't match the 1600 (typical) wiring, and it was in fact closer to the wiring of the 2002 (typical) diagram. Well, after switching up the switch, I was able to get the blinkers blinking, and how joyous I was to hear the blinker! Its at this point that I might admit that one of my primary motivations for owning a 2002 or 1600 is the rear light assemblies — the roundie. And once I was able to finally view the roundie blinker blinking in all its glory I knew at that moment that all of my bad decisions leading to this point had been worth it. Current state of Affairs So, the car starts, idles revs, shifts, stops, blinks and puts its lights on when I want them too! It is unsafe to drive at any speed, un-titled, un-insured, and pretty ugly. Despite all this, yesterday I took it for a ride around the block and this voyage seemed to give great amusement to one gentleman walking down the sidewalk. He gave the car and me a giant smiled thumbs up. I parked it in the garage. On the radio was some orange man yelling about something or someone crooked, and the 70 degree day in Minneapolis during November was uncomfortably comfortable, in the global climate change sense. War in the middle east, Russians meddling in things, uncertain and increasingly angry political times, difficult family issues, two teeth I need to get pulled, the need to get laundry done and of course where am I going to get all the money fix this car up properly... all of these worries become irrelevant when you can put your hands and your mind on something and with a bit of love and faith and grease make it do what it was originally meant to do before the world got to it—

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