Jump to content

uai

Solex
  • Content Count

    861
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7
  • Feedback

    0%

uai last won the day on January 2

uai had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

959 Excellent

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Location
    Near Stuttgart Germany

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. What's this? never seen or heard of. Neither on any price list I've seen
  2. one way of getting rid of the many gears is an upright shaft and bevel gears-now we're talking
  3. I've just changed my Brake Setup and installed the US Spec rear wheel cylinders ø22,2 mm with the 230mm Drum to get more brake in the rear. Now I have a little bit too much at the rear so I installed a Tilton Proportioning Valve 90-2003 and now I have an issue with residual Pressure in the system. There is no residual Pressure Valve in Main Cylinder or in the line. The rest of the Braking system is untouched and has been run before, so the only change has been the installation in the line to the rears. I have confirmed the orientation in-out is correct. Brakes have been bled thoroughly with a pressure/vacuum bleeder (+pressure at the MC and vacuum at the wheel cylinder) Brake Pedal feel is ok. What I've recognized and confirmed is that I get a residual pressure in the rear circuit if the proportioning valve is turned in more than 2.5 Turns (of the 7.25 Turns possible). So the rear drum is free - I close the Proportioning Valve 3 turns- I press the Pedal and afterwards the rear drum is stuck. I could feel it in the test drive, and now have confirmed with the wheel off. When I attach a tube to the bleeder at the Wheels cylinder and open it I get a volume of ca. 0,5 cm³ As I need a rather closed Proportioning valve to get settings right this won't work for me. Do you have an Idea what's wrong? When I'm only closing 2.5 turns the drums are free after releasing the pedal.
  4. Yes that was an NK. I am not yet in contact with all in the regions affeted. There have been fatalities in the families and there are still people missing.
  5. It seems that some of our Club colleagues have been hit I am trying to find out who is in trouble and will try to set up a gofundme or similar if appropriate.
  6. No, you don't need it when the head is off the engine. Then you can just move the rockers aside while inserting the camhaft. However when the head is on the engine the tool helps a lot to remove the cam.
  7. That's a catch tank? Isn't it? I understand the principle but an expansion tank is in the pressurized part of the cooling system. In period there were often used early e9 tanks or half early e 9 tanks.
  8. the expansion tank only makes sense if it's above radiator level.
  9. Pyrolysis is going to remove it but will require complete stripping of the car. (And subsequent Body restoration)
  10. Neither of those two are alpinas. So you're just looking for any schweinebacke front
  11. Who says those measurements are ok? I'd have another measurement on a different (modern) bench.
  12. No not really. Wolle (whs.de) once gave me a 1 1/2 hourly lecture about the sublte differences of the makes and evolution over time. The best approach is period photos and magazines. I have most german car magazines from 67-73 (some even from 1954 to 1990) .But I have them in paper (no scans). This thread is one of my favourites on this board i think most answers should be within this thread
  13. As you're referencing ORIGINAL pig cheeks which originals are you looking for? There were Alpina Pig cheeks, Schnitzer Pig Cheeks, Koepchen Pig cheeks (although they sometimes used Schnitzer), GS had their own Pig cheeks, the Motorsport Abteilung also had different styles for circuit and rallye. They all look different....
  14. get the car measured. period. your camber (r) is 2.3 degree off standard and is not achievable without either or a combination of -bent struts -offset strut bearings -bent body or other issue -struts with negative camber
  15. uai

    Rims

    To add to the confusion: I would keep those rims for now and for the tires, if you want the stickiest tires for the twisty's go with the Avon Cr6ZZ if you want a tire just for more normal town driving get the Pirelli CN36, they'll last a lot longer. The Avons will require less fender rolling (if any) Another Option is relatively new on the market (at least here in Europe) the Yokohama ADVAN HF Type-D A008 https://www.yokohama-online.com/tyres/pcr-tyres/classic-car/A008/? Usually I like the Yokohama Tyres they might be worth a try. And yes you can run 165/80-13 on 5.5" inch rims - its better than runnig them on 4.5" or 5" 185/70 13 may require serious pulling if you're running 5.5" ET18 on a lowered car
×
×
  • Create New...