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uai

Solex
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  1. And then there are NON-OE like Bilstein, Sachs which are different in regards to the tube (and camber if you're lucky)
  2. Hi Robert, the brother of the Dingolfing Plant manager mentioned it once. I doubt this being a bulletproof fact, but to me it made sense in conjunction with the color change. Cheers Uli
  3. I thought when the primer color was red it was the anodic process replaced by KTL later. I have no exact data when it happened late 60's early 70s I think. So what is the color of your primer (where the VIN is) 1967 April was red
  4. Tom, there is also a part where the first weight Touches the second and helps to move the second weight. When limiting travel on the first weight it will flatten the curve too. But you surely figured that out already.
  5. H compatible and emissions is not linked together. It's just that you may not drive into umweltzone with not meeting emissions and not having H. You just have to meet emission that were necessary by the time your car was built, or even no emmision appproval necessary for cars before 1969. Brakes are needed for Power not for wheels. Wheel wider than 6" rear need Turbo Stub axles, wheels wider than 5" need hardened Stub axles. Front uprights are depending on brakes and wheelwidth. Yes we're in germany and sometimes when I see what americans do with LS7 swaps I'm glad that those mechanically pieced together rolling coffins are not on our roads. I am with you that TÜV can be a PITA but do not make your own rims - it can get you in jail.
  6. BBS still makes barrels, https://schmidtclassics.com, http://www.rs-felgen.de/ , http://gillet-felgen.de/webshop/zoll-c-93_95_96.html and more
  7. No that's not correct you can have legally a 15" wheel on a 02 just not with historic approval. For handmade rims I'll save my time as we won't find together in our ways to approach things. And TÜV isn't that hard if you do it correct the way: look at my car 121kw magnesium rims porsche brakes 100 liter tank adjustable coilovers and much more all tüv approved (with historic)
  8. Well it's not about getting caught it's about an insurance desaster if you have an accident with people injured...
  9. So red is about yours, and blue is for for engines with more compression and more cam. So when you have it at 10° btdc at idle <1000 you'll end up with 32° at 3200 rpm. As the 292 is still mild and I don't know the compression you should end up in between but do not have advance below 1000 rpm and a steep curve at the beginning
  10. I have both. I use the modern to get the curve dialed in - as it's accessible for adjustments without disassembly. Once it's finished on the dyno, I'll try to transfer the curve to the old style cast iron distributor. I've attached a pic of my bending tools - as I know you like that kind of tools.
  11. then I'd add a bit of preload to the spring of the first centrifugal weight in the distributor so it won't advance before 1000rpm (engine rpm) (after having confirmed it's the underlying cause) If you don't get a stable idle when setting the max advance at 33° (or better 32° - all depends on engine & fuel & compression etc etc) then you have to limit your max advance so you can have a it bit earlier at idle. But as stated @'76mintgrün'02 has written so much - not necessary to repeat. this was my first attempt - I've changed more but haven't updated the curve since (engine rpm and degree - not distributor rpm & degree) I had to flatten the curve between 2,5-3krpm as I still had pinging
  12. What he said. But it might be necessary to recurve your distributor (no mechanical advance before ~1000 rpm) Also take care that you're not advancing too early or too much. On my distributor the spring preload is increased on both springs and both the stops of the weights are bent so it doesn't advance that much and the curve flattens earlier. @'76mintgrün'02 has explained this in detail in his posts
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