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Tommy

Solex
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  1. One thing to look that I'm not happy about fitting of my WN fenders. If I look from above, the knee trim line turns inward comparing to door line. Also at wheel opening the fender is around 10mm in, causing some more rubbing issues than OEM fit would. I don't know if others have had this issue but I have and I wasn't able to fix it. This is same on both sides. I don't think I did anything major at the rear vertical surface you refer.
  2. You have a good chance to replace the valve cover gasket when you do the clearance adjustment again. They should be measured between the eccentric and valve, not between cam and rocker. Not that big thing to redo 👍
  3. I was really fighting with the smell last summer. I checked all the connections several times. I pressurized the tank and it held pressure over night but the smell was there. Finally I replaced the hoses that were not more than few years old. They looked perfect but let the smell come through. It seems to be hard to find rubber hoses that hold currently used fuels, at least the ones used in Europe, more than couple of years. These were high quality Gates hoses. Now I bought Gates hose that is rated for ethanol.
  4. The dovel can be removed and left out. It won't fit the other holes though.
  5. Brand of the turbines is RG. I once asked about very similar style of wheels, same brand. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/221526-wheel-id/?tab=comments#comment-1264639
  6. I think it's ok plan to delay the painting but without the pillars...ummmph... It just looks wrong. They should be done too... or leave also the roof without.
  7. That's once in a lifetime occasion 😂
  8. Short answer: trash. Had the same situation years ago. Tightening only helped for a week, then it's loose again.
  9. Replying to Marshall, this is my filosophy too. I want the front to keep the body from rolling over and rear to hold tires on ground. This works for my racecar with 25% lsd and especially when I started with open diff. I don't have that much track experience with different cars though.
  10. Just for interest try without rear swaybar. Keeping inner wheel on ground instead of bouncing on and off might make many kinds of clunking disappear. You may experience some understeer but it's more a question of driving style wheter it matters or not.
  11. Wish that Jaymic skins are good. If there's no issues in quality it's pretty straight forward, with your skills peace of cake. I found one old stock skin, no idea about manufacturer, and managed to replace with fairly good result. It was far easier than other door where I only replaced lower third.
  12. Thats's weird, I can see all of them.
  13. Good job. This bit make me confused. I paid way too much for the tii booster thinking it was the only chance!
  14. Maybe you should first contact the retailer you bought them from to ask about warranty and if they want to try replacing them. Looks that there is a little quality issue in welding that is easily fixed by grinding a bit as you planned. Probably another set is just alike. A good choice of shock absorbers anyway IMO.
  15. Wolfgang, whs.de, has the one with console, gruppe 2. I think that's the one if you want period correctness.
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