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Tommy

Solex
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    Finland

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  1. It's the upper part in the picture. It should be hiding a rubber bump stop that needs to be removed. Explained here Adjusting Koni shocks
  2. That sounded a bit harsh to say to someone posting first pictures of his new car, but then I checked the earlier posts and almost have to agree. Wouldn't go to scrapping it yet but it is quite a project. Incredible to see someone wasting good paint and atleast some effort to cover all that!
  3. You have your basics right - Good luck! Hate to watch someone just throw in a rack picked from backyard without any understanding, then call it an upgrade.
  4. Thanks, I see it now. chargin referred to rear subframe brace and I couldn't fit it in my mind, but he actually meant rear of the front subframe
  5. They are nice, but what is the subframe brace used for? Never heard of one.
  6. I tried and went back to 2-piece and I know few others who have done the same. But as said, it can work. I suggest rather large margin to the calculated limit rpm. I was too close though it was "supposed to work" and then came the space limitations.
  7. Looking good now! Does the tension rod limit turning, I mean touch the wheel before oem? I was also thinking if the tension rod mounting could be assembled from front so that braking force would be carried by solid piece instead of bolts....but it would need large thread around and big nut to tighten which maybe isn'that appealing.
  8. I've been happy with ones cut out of inner tube and replace every another year. Not original of course and I'm not sure if I can find another inner tube after the one is used - so thanks for taking the dimensions! 😀
  9. @uai great explanation! I couldn't see all the issues related to rubber bushings before but totally agree with you.
  10. Allrigh since you ask First, I like that original geometry is retained. That's easy way to avoid mistakes making it worse. I also like that there is no modification needed to subframe. Build quality and attention to detail looks great. Target group for such setup must be racing or serious track day use. There's no sense just for street IMO. With track suspension setups you usually want to get rid of flexible rubber bushings by replacing them with something stiffer or better yet with spherical bearings. I don't see sense in making such a nice adjustable setup but using the original rubber that let's the angles go all over in dynamic situation. I would at least like to see planned solution to go to uniballs/spherical bearings, whatever to call them, if and when wanted. (basicly same what uai wrote). I like utilization of e30 ball joint. Effective and simple. I don't know if there is some flexible element inside or no. If yes, is there a stiff option available that would fit? Reliability? You sure seem to be qualified making such designs but still I'm a bit suspicios about reliability and strength. What's the size of thread in those eye bolts? Are you sure they can handle fatique in long term? With slicks over curbs? Longevity? How long will those plastic bushings live before they are loose as hell? In water and dirt? There's quite many joints and lashes tend to stack. Eariler I didn't see the plan using spirolocks on the pins. I guess they can be trusted, though I lack personal experience on those. BR, Tommy
  11. Good points Anthony. I think the desing can handle the sweep since all connections are hinged, kinda "loose". There's many things I like in this design but few I'm not sure about.
  12. Some NK serial numbers here E.g. Year: 1967 Model: 2000 tilux VIN: 1455091
  13. Could it be a really early, like nk era first edition m10? Anyone know those? That would be my guess. It looks like it's gear type instead of normal rotor pumps because there seems to be a location for another shaft. ....Toby just beat me.
  14. All of the options are viable and pretty easy. Usually the problem is getting the seats low enough, which is not so easy. -Said by one who always drops adjustable seat to bottom position.
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