tzei

Looks Factory. Not the first time to broke off. Weld it back, she'll be alright.

Niceeee!!!

Check that engine has a good ground connection to chassis.

I let her to take the m2 for a drive. An hour or so later... what a smile she had

I pulled that sleeve out of one crank and then used sealed type ball bearing.

I have used 19 row Setrab and Mocal coolers.

I have glued piece of fabric in the back side to address similar rips. They’ll still be there but not so pronounced.

Me and Buckethead went thru whole story. Good Q-read ty

Driveline: tranny needs room so mods to tunnel, shift linkage needs some modding too. Prop.shaft needs work. Rear axle needs attention - no bolt on (not even for E21). Can't remember track width for E30 M3 but there is that too. Rear coil overs needs major work. Seats: as i have understood - will need metal work to be fitted. There are topics about these.

How does the bottom of the strut(s) look like? 56 mm bottom part (guiding tube- kinda-portion) - does it continue/extend to the end of spindle part? Same amount of "camber" on both struts?

Cranks are all the same in this regard, 32 mm bore for bearing. You just pull sleeve #11211262750 (outer "race" for needle bearing) out and install normal bearing into crank. At least this is what i have done. See pic here.

Custom made for me. Flanged for T3/turbo and Tial 46 mm wg. Tapped for 2x egt sensor + one for pressure. It is a joy to be able to put professionally made parts to a car.

And this why he is going to change it to ball bearing type. B/bearing inner race will forgive grooves if it otherwise has 10 mm diameter.

Clean it up carefully and see how your new ball bearing fits on it. If it's tight you should be okay. If not - what kbmb02 said.