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Everything posted by tzei

  1. You'll just "buy" yourself a little more time until you have to address that issue and by that time it'll be bigger and more expensive. i'd say no but i have a welding machine
  2. Admired it ’cause it made it to a race poster. UwU
  3. Alternator crapped itself on a f/i car. Had new (rebuild) one in self but it had rubber bushes. Took them of and turned new from mild steel. Put old piston pin clips for clips on those Didn't have time to make any fancy hipo lite parts so i'm set for race weekend.
  4. Looks like normal night shift to me. Race day tomorrow... err today. Schnell schnell jungs!
  5. From 1990. The day i got it home.
  6. Took f/i car to dyno for little tweaks as some things has changed.
  7. I would go thru the hassle and get it ”spot on” as it should be. Then you have that margin of +/- teeth to use at your own perill if ”spot on” can’t be achieved. It has been many moons since i played with kf but the system hasn’t evolved since so i assume consesus remains the same: spot on is best. Then you can focus on tuna can etc and not need to worry about pump timing. just my thoughts
  8. I told Mattij that Alex was looking for him Some progress has been made but I'll let Mattij continue on the subject when he has time.
  9. Put some pieces back in the car. Slowly gettin there lol.
  10. Lathe is your friend Btw that is nice looking engine bay! Water pump looks thou to be darn close to radiator but maybe it's the angle of pic.
  11. I have autopsied a few. One that Tom has pictured and one almost like that but had key hole cover. Both need that outer part pried open to dissemble. One with key hole cover is much harder to do and will not look nice when put back together - mind you i have none of these reassembled, only parted. The one w/o key hole cover was easier and that i would tempt to put it back and use. Seems doable imo. Never seen one that Mike posted so can't comment on that one. Then there is this flat cap with key (no cover). It has casted metal parts that are riveted together. Haven't gone past rivets so can't say how that would turn out. Seems challenging to say at least. Lastly a cap that has only that has continuous ridge and no key. Used on 1502. This i haven't tried to open. Looks also very difficult to do without major damage to the outer edge as well.
  12. Nice! What’s your camber, caster & toe settings (f/r) for this tire? Pressure (cold)?
  13. So like i said, silly and obviously you have tried it correct way. What brand/kit you are using?
  14. iirc it's not. Now this sound silly but have you tried to flip the plate other way around?
  15. Looks Factory. Not the first time to broke off. Weld it back, she'll be alright.
  16. tzei

    Fun time

  17. Check that engine has a good ground connection to chassis.
  18. I let her to take the m2 for a drive. An hour or so later... what a smile she had
  19. I pulled that sleeve out of one crank and then used sealed type ball bearing.
  20. I have used 19 row Setrab and Mocal coolers.
  21. I have glued piece of fabric in the back side to address similar rips. They’ll still be there but not so pronounced.
  22. Me and Buckethead went thru whole story. Good Q-read ty
  23. Driveline: tranny needs room so mods to tunnel, shift linkage needs some modding too. Prop.shaft needs work. Rear axle needs attention - no bolt on (not even for E21). Can't remember track width for E30 M3 but there is that too. Rear coil overs needs major work. Seats: as i have understood - will need metal work to be fitted. There are topics about these.
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