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2002iii last won the day on February 16

2002iii had the most liked content!

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About 2002iii

  • Birthday 11/09/1987

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    SF Bay Area

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  1. Nice work! If you want to document your build and keep track of it all, I would suggest starting a blog on here.
  2. I was afraid this might be the case, with all the turbo power he's probably going to need the stronger transmission anyway. So widen the transmission tunnel and put in the m3 transmission or a cheaper m30 getrag 260. There is a reason the m10 and m30 engine share parts the m30 is basically an m10 with 2 extra cylinders. If you look at the early 3.0l engines they use the same pistons and rods as a 2.0l m10.
  3. I found that you got the part #s mixed up,according to Realoem it should be: Feb 1962 - Jul 1977 P/N 1 131 063 1014 Sept 1975 - Jul 1976 P/N 1 131 126 1613 Sport Cam 300 degree P/N 1 131 063 1009
  4. The factory trim is aluminum, so it bends very easily. The 02bumpers trim is stainless steel and should be a little less bendy. But yes go slowly and take your time, I can tell you from experience that it's not hard to screw up, especially if your frustrated. If you get frustrated take a step back, go relax and come back when you feel calm and collected. Also look at pictures online.
  5. Your link doesn't work, look here for the correct page.
  6. Rather than buy a useless spacer, I would buy the strut tower brace and use it as a template
  7. First a couple notes: You should never leave the engine hanging on the engine hoist for longer than you need to, I've seen too many motors dropped. Its called a engine hoist not an engine stand, Beating on a puller is never going to help, beat on the part not the tool. Beating on the tool will most likely damage the threads. I've burned my self enough times to remember to wear heavy leather gloves whenever using any kind of torch. Now for the fun stuff: Nice car and engine. How was it with 7 psi of boost? What are the former and new engine specs? I'm assuming the 240mm flywheel and clutch you talk about are from an m30, I've always wondered if they would work on an m10. I believe the m30 transmission's use the same input shaft splines and pilot bearings, so it should bolt in.
  8. I feel your pain on having to deal with BS from shops. I applaud you for doing it yourself and educating yourself. Like they say "If your want it done right sometimes you have to do it yourself". Wow $1200 for a good driveshaft sounds like too much to me. Was it a brand new driveshaft? If I paid that much for a driveshaft shaft and it was bad I would take it back to whoever I bought it from and demand that it be made right or a full refund.
  9. Your going to need to get measurements from a straight car to figure out the correct bolt hole location, most strut tower braces are adjustable. For the reinforcement plate I would use the aluminum strut spacer as a template to make the reinforcement piece for the bottom. You should be able to find a body shop or metal fabrication shop that could make and weld the reinforcement plate in.
  10. I was thinking a steel plate welded under the inner fender to keep it hidden and then add a strut tower brace on top to cover up the nasty original holes. To do it right you would have to replace the whole inner fender panel, which would be hard and expensive.
  11. No I have not tried 13x7 wheels, but the factory 2002 turbo came with 13x6 alloy wheels and from what I've heard they were pretty close to the steering arm and strut body. Yeah its going to be a tight fit so measure a lot.
  12. I wasn't calling you cheap, I was just pointing out why most shops do it that way. They're more concerned with money then quality these days it seems to me. I totally agree putting extra weight on anything rotating is usually not good, unfortunately not everyone else does. Most newer cars have enough sound deadening to get rid of those annoying noises, so people don't notice. The way cars are built these days is to be cheap and disposable, so they take shortcuts and put bandaids on problems instead of fixing them properly. The standards for quality and dimensional tolerances seem to be getting looser and looser. Add up the hours it took you to balance a shaft without adding weights, then multiply by $100 and you'll get approximately what it would cost at a driveshaft shop. If it's under $500 you might have something. Even at 3000rpm I would still suggest the safety loops. Safety first, it only takes one mistake to severely injure or kill you. There is a reason the driveshaft is underneath the car in a metal transmission tunnel.
  13. Most of those products don't work very well, they more turn the glue into a rubbery mess.
  14. That looks bad! I would suggest having that fixed by a professional.
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